TIMOTHY  COOP. 


A  TRIP 


AROUND    THE   WORLD 


A  SERIES  OF  LETTERS 


BY 


TIMOTHY  COOP  AND  HENRY  EXLEY 


IIWI)  cTiurluc  Albcrtijpe  JJIatcs 


CINCINNATI 
H.  C.  HALL  &  COMPANY,  180  ELM  STREET 

1882 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1882,  by 

H.  C.  HALL  &  CO., 
In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


Electrotypcd  at 

FRANKLIN  TYPE  FOUNDRY, 

Cincinnati,  O. 


u.  c. 

ACADEMY   OF 

PACIFIC  COAST 

HISTORY 


PREFACE. 


In  sending  forth  from  the  press  books  and  letters  of 
travel,  a  very  common  statement  is  made  —  that  the  letters, 
etc.,  were  not  written  or  intended  for  the  public  eye,  but 
only  for  the  enjoyment  of  the  immediate  friends  of  their 
writers.  Without  being  able  to  say  just  the  same  thing,  this 
much,  however,  is  literally  correct,  that  neither  of  the 
writers  of  the  letters  here  sent  forth,  had  any  idea  whatever 
of  publishing  a  book;  scarcely,  indeed,  of  publishing  even  a 
series  of  letter^  for  the  Christian  Standard,  in  which  they 
appeared.  As  they  were  written  and  sent  off  from  different 
parts  of  the  world,  it  was  always  with  the  fear  that  they 
were  very  far  below,  in  their  interest  and  worth,  the  require- 
ments of  such  a  paper.  It  is  no  small  gratification  to  the 
writers,  to  find  that,  where  they  had  feared  so  much,  the 
readers  of  the  letters  have  enjoyed  so  much ;  and  so  many  of 
them  express  a  wish  to  possess  them  in  a  permanent  form. 
Such  as  they  are,  we  send  them  to  the  churches,  greeting, 
but  with  much  fear  and  diffidence.  Did  the  readers  know, 
the  real  difficulties  under  which  they  were  written,  more 
than  common  allowance  and  indulgence  would  be  granted 
for  whatever  faults  may  mar  the'  letters,  either  in  matter  or 
style. 

We  confess  to  a  little  real  satisfaction,  in  thinking  that, 

with  all  their  blemishes,  they  are  a  kind  of  pioneer  trip  'round 

(iii.) 


iv.  PREFACE. 

the  world  series  of  letters,  amongst  us  a  people,  so  far  as  we 
have  any  knowledge  of  the  matter. 

In  every,  case  where  we  have  had  to  draw  upon  other 
sources  than  our  own,  on  matters  of  realest  interest,  but 
often  entirely  beyond  our  own  observation,  we  have  drawn 
from  the  best  and  most  reliable;  in  the  first  place,  that  we 
might  ourselves  know  something  about  the  strange  lands  we 
were  visiting,  and  so  be  enabled  to  gather  instruction  and 
pleasure  at  every  point  of  our  journey  —  without  which  it 
could  not  be  done,  except  to  a  small  extent;  and  in  the  next 
place,  if  we  published  any  letters  whatever,  the  readers  of 
them  should  share  in  the  feast.  For  rr.any  interesting  items 
about  missionaries  and  their  work,  such  authorities  as  Revs. 
Taplin,  Ingliss,  Eeid  and  Williams,  all  toilers  in  the  fields  of 
the  world;  for  facts  concerning  the  various  lands  we  visited, 
the  natives,  natural  history,  and  kindred  matters,  Miss  Bird, 
Canon  Tristram,  Harcus,  the  Historian  of  South  Australia, 
Boswick,  F.  R.  G.  S.,  Historian  of  the  Tasmanians,  have 
been  our  sources;  besides  which,  a  constant  lookout  was 
kept  for  everything  that  might  keep  us  abreast  with  what 
was  transpiring  around  us,  as  we  moved  from  city  to  city, 
and  from  land  to  land. 

In  suffering  this  little  book  to  go  forth  amongst  the 
brethren,  to  whom  we  send  it  with  Christian  greetings,  we 
send  it  in  the  hope  that  it  will  help,  under  the  Divine  bless- 
ing, to  awaken  more  interest  in  the  work  of  missions,  and  to 
bring  together,  as  never  in  the  past,  all  who  are  pleading  for 
a  full  return  to  the  right  ways  of  the  Lord,  into  closer  bonds 
of  brotherhood,  warmer  sympathies,  and  world-wide  united 
activities. 


PREFACE.  v. 

If  our  small  contribution  in  these  letters,  shall  help  in 
even  a  very  small  degree,  to  accomplish  this,  our  long  jour- 
ney will  not  have  been  altogether  in  vain.  It  is  our  abiding 
conviction  that  the  gospel  calls  on  us,  and  our  assumed  posi- 
tion demands  of  us,  that  we  seek  the  extension  of  the  Re- 
deemer's kingdom;  not  only  where  Christ  is  preached,  and 
where  His  gospel  needs  to  be  freed  from  the  traditions  of 
men,  but  in  the  regions  beyond  us,  and  where  dark  habita- 
tions of  cruelty  still  abound,  and  teeming  millions  still  sit  in 
the  darkness,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death,  and 
where  no  light  is. 

We  are  sure  that  if  all  the  churches  in  America  could 
have  seen  what  we  saw  —  the  many  large  churches,  and  so 
intensely  alivo  to  the  interests  of  the  kingdom  of  our  com- 
mon Lord,  t'hey  could  not  help  but  thank  God  and  take 
courage.  It  appeared  to  us  that  the  churches  of  Australia 
have,  for  t-heir  years  and  opportunities,  gone  beyond  what 
their  brethren  elsewhere  have  done. 

With  many  fears,  and  some  hopes,  we  venture  to  send 
forth  these  letters  to  the  churches,  hoping  that  they  may 
prove  to  be  at  least  one  link  in  a  golden  chain  of  Christian 
love  and  world-wide  sympathy,  that  shall  help  to  bind  them 
all  together. 

We  pray  that  a  rich  blessing  from  the  great  Lord  of  the 
harvest  may  rest  upon  them,  and  cause  them  to  minister  to 
the  joys  of  His  people,  and  the  salvation  of  men. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 


CONTENTS. 

LETTER  I. 

The  trip  proposed  —  Given  up  at  home  —  Leave-taking  —  Stormy  start- 
ing—Meeting of  the  travelers— Curious  mistake  —  Gentle- 
manly conductors  —  American  promptness  —  Mistake  rectified 

—  Bound  for  San  Francisco—  Visit  to  Halt  Lake  City—  Walker 
House  —  Mormons  —  Polygamy  —  Talk  with  Mormons  in  street 
cars  — Mormons  growing  in  numbers— Visit  to  the  Tabernacle 

—  Temple  — Visit  to  Zion  cooperative  store  — Talk  with  Presi- 
dent of  all  the   Mormons  — Their  missionary  activity —  Thor- 
ough organization  —  San  Francisco  —  An  old  acquaintance  — 
The  gospel  in  California  — Slow  progress  — A  difficulty  removed 

—  Parting  songs  and  prayers  —  On  the  sea  at  last.        .        .        .    11-23 

LETTER  II. 

Sandwich  Islands  — Honolulu  — Visit  on  shore —As  the  Islands  used 
to  be  —  As  they  are  now  —  Missionaries  and  their  work  —  Lep- 
rosy—Episcopalians—Death of  Queen  mother  — All  aboard  — 
Swimming  boys  —  A  sick  traveler. 24-31 

LETTER  III. 

Safely  in  New  Zealand  —  More  about  Sandwich  Islands  —Volcanoes  — 
Mauna  Loa  in  1859  — Land  rocked  like  sea-  Pillar  of  fire  — 
River  of  molten  laya  —  Bottomless  pit  —  Awful  grandeur  — 
Fountain  of  fire  — River  of  fire  — Alone  at  sea  — Flying  fish  — 
Preaching  on  ship-board  —  Clerical  smallness  —  Serious  conse- 
quences of  a  slight  mishap  —  Severe  suffering  — Crossing  the 
Equator  —  A  sleek  Jesuit — A  lost  day,  and  a  puzzled  doctor  — 
Laid  up  at  Auckland  —  A  city  in  commotion  —  Ministering 
Angels  — A  Christian  home 32-40 

LETTER  IV. 

A  busy  man  — Pleasant  things —  Almost  with  us  — Preaching  under 
difficulties  — Old  disciples  —  Pa  pakura  —  A  model  Christian 
family  — Ye  did  it  unto  me  — A  country  ride  —  Scared  horses  — 
Bushranging —  Another  ride,  and  a  fine  time  —  A  happy  fisher- 
man—Getting  stronger— Better  rub  than  rust  — Precious  fruits 

—  A  gracious  time  —  Leave-taking  again — A  stormy  voyage  — 
Native    New   Zealand    clergymen  —  Peekinsr    for    Disciples  — 
Found  the  firstling  of  an  ass  — Church  at  Wellington  —  Two 
confessions— A  prosperous  church  —  On  the  sea  again  —  Mighty 
waves  —  Another    church  —  A    pleasant    surprise  —  Farming 
prospects  — A  stormy  time —A  quiet  haven 41-54 

LETTER  V. 

A  sailor's  home  — Churches  iu  Dunedin  — A  successful  preacher- 
Open  fields— Material  in  the  churches  — Call  for  a  Pan  Chris- 
tian council  —  Enemies  in  the  dark  —  "The  enemy  is  yonder" — 
Preaching  in  Dunedin  —  Bound  for  Australia  — A  lost  sixpence 

(vii) 


viii  CONTENTS. 

—  Tax  to  Neptune  —  Wonderful  progress  of  New  Zealand  —  Life 
not  too  anxious  — Everything  solid  — Loafers  scarce  — A  lump 
of  gold  —  Farm  produce  —  Mild  climate  —  Cloth  manufacturing 

—  The  smallest  chapel  —  The  largest  clock  —  Dunedin  from  the 

Bay — Daily  papers '.  55-65 

LETTER  VI. 

Nevv  Zealand  thrift  —  Business  hours —  General  characteristics— All 
good  —  General  character,  English  —  The  native  population  — 
Once  cannibals  —  Dwindling  away  —  The  pig  a  civilizer —  Mao- 
rie  superstition  —  A  prophet  —  Chief  hindrances  to  civilization 

—  Precision  at  drill  —  Cruel  cannibalism  —  Captives  tortured  — 
Missionaries   ami    difficulties  —  Romanist  activity  —  Te-Whiti 
and  the  gospel  —  "Is  not  that  grand?" — What  might  be  done  — 
Why  it  can  not 66-75 

LETTER  VII. 

In  Australia  —  The  Rip  —  Melbourne  —  Human  nature — A  touching 
scene  —  Brothers  met  —  Glad  welcome  —  Wonderful  city  — 
Buildings  —  Library — Museum  —  Parks  —  S.  S.  Pic-nic  —  City 
Hall  — Great  organ"— Area  of  Victoria— Population  nearly  all 
English — Enterprise  and  wealth  of  colony  —  Gold-fields  —  Li- 
braries—Schools—Education —  Admiration  compelled  —  A 
marvelous  city  —  Ranks  with  the  best — Labor  and  wages  — 
Holidays  — International  Exhibition  —  Extraordinary  progress 

—  Talk   with  a   Baptist  minister  —  Christian  Churches — Im- 
mense meetings  —  Travelers  impressed  into  service  —  Beware 
of  Hymns  —  Christinas  day  —  A  good  time  —  Sending  up  a  bal- 
loon—A  social  tea— New  arrivals  from  England.        .        .        .    76-89 

LETTER  VIII. 

Off  for  Adelaide  the  Beautiful  —  Storm  after  storm  —  Friends  to  wel- 
come—  Area  of  South  Australia  —  Colony  founded  —  Histori- 
cal tree  — A  free  State  well  founded —Population —  Religion 
flourishes  —  Care  for  the  suffering — A  young  colony's  great  ex- 
ports —  Vast  wealth  —  Roads  —  Bridges  —  Telegraphs  —  White 
fellows'  devil  — Public  parks— Games  — A  beautiful  city  — The 
press  —  Education  compulsory  —  Teachers  reasonably  paid  — 
University  —  No  religious  tests  —  Yet  it  is  the  city  of  churches 

—  A  handsome  gift  —  Land  office — Magnificent  gardens  —  Parks 

—  Astonishing  to  all  —  Country  visit  —  A  private  gentleman's 
home 90-101 

LETTER  IX. 

A  great  oiLxiountry  —  Hot  winds  — Rainfall  — Wheat  production  — 
Healthy  climate  —  Aborigines  —  Beings  with  spears  in  their 
heads  — Boomerang  — Healing  the  sick  — Squeezing  and  danc- 
ing—  To  make  them  Christians  —  "  Hang  them  by  a'  means,  sir" 
—"What  him  say  "  —  Infanticide  —  Native  customs  —  Origin  lost 

—  Savage  life  hinders  increase  —  Language  remnant  of  a  noble 
tongue  —  No  self  elevation  —  Lost,  Englishman  —  Churches  of 
Adelaide  —  Grand  tea-meeting  welcome  —  Proportion  of  Dis- 
ciples to  population  — A  model  S.  tf.  building  — Faithful,  but 

not  procrustean.  102^111 

LETTER  X. 

Separation  at  last  —  A  long  looked  for  joy  given  up — Laboring  alone 

—  Another  comfortless  voyage  —  Back    to    Melbourne  —  The 
Melbourne  churches  —  Sunday-schools —  The  banner  city  of  the 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Disciple  world  —  A  model  church  —With  large  heart  and  open 
hand  —  A  country  church — A  pleasant  visit  to  see  ami  help  it 

—  Public  houses — Preaching  in  Melbourne  again — The  final 
resurrectio1  — A  handful  of  dust — A  bunch  of  flowers — Ventur- 
ing 10  lecture  —  Another  social  meeting  —  Anothergood-bye  — 
Off  to  Tasmania— The  Albatross  — Mutton  birds  — Sea-serpent 

—  Tasmania —  Launceston  —  People  and  churches  —  Workman's 
club— Population  of  colony  —  Hobart  —  Mount  Wellington  — 
Climate — Large  exports  —  Education   compulsory  —  Wise   en- 
couragement—Aborigines  all  dead— A   brave  church  — Left 
almost;   alone,    yet   struggle  on  —  A  sudden  death  —  Another 
alarm  --Joyous  "success—  A  self-sacrificing   church  — How    to 
help   struggling   churches  —  Loving    hospitality  — Fern    tree 
bower  — The  Derwent  — Fine  privileges— Farewell  to  Hobart 

—  Another  distressing  voyage  —  On  the  Parliament  House-top  — 

Too  late  — Another  voyage  contemplated 112-125 

LETTER  XI. 

Tasmania ns  —  111  treatment  of  natives  —  A  dying  man's  testimony  —  A 
fact  as  remarkably  as  Dr.  Tanner's  fast  —  First  Governor  present 
at  Bunker  Hill  —  A  penal  settlement  —  First  Wedding  —  Run- 
away convict  — Forgets  his  mother  tongue  — Cruelties  on  the 
natives — Nearly  whole  race  die  rejecting  Christianity  —  A  re- 
markable virtue  in  savages  — S' a  lightered  to  make  room  for 
sheep  —  Infanticide,  result  of  cruelty — Women  suckle  pups  — 
Prayer— ongs  for  absent  husbands  —  Shell-heaps  —  Obtaining 
fire —  Cause  of  incurable  enmity  —  A  drunken  officer  —  A 
stolen  woman — Woman  wantonly  shot  —  Remarkable  provid- 
ence—  Last  male  Tasmanian  —  Killed  by  drink  —  His  head 
stolen  —  Last  Tasmanian  woman  —  Readings  of  phrenology, 
and  readings  of  fact. 126-139 

LETTER  XII. 

Come  over  and  help  us  — Bay  of  Sydney —  Search  for  Christians  — Un- 
expected —Kindly  welcome  — A  spoiled  city —  Commercial  im- 
portance—Mineral wealth  of  New  South  "Wales  — Street  rail- 
ways—  Meat  exportation  to  England — Scientific;  methods  — 
Wealth  in  stock —  Sheep-shearing  — Winter  in  June  — Oranges 
and  flowers  —  No  snow  —  Gardens  —  Libraries  —  Readers  —  Mu- 
seum—Universities—Outdoor preaching  —  Aborigines  throw- 
ing boomerang  —  Poisoned  arrows  —  Christian  Churches  — 
Worthy  of  imitation — Striking  providence  —  Reaping  after 
sowing — Preaching  in  the  poor-house  —  The  spirit  of  Christ  — 
Church  in  the  house  — A  berth  engaged  at  last.  .  .  .  140-154 

LETTER  XIII. 

Religion  the  true  civilizer— Marvelous  contrast  — Four  translations 
carried  on  one  snip— Missionary  difficulties  — Self-sacrifices- 
Constant  peril  —  Stooping  to  save  —  Often  a  martyr  —  Amusing 
ignorance  —  White  fellows'  supposed  mothers  "and  wives- 
Origin  of  languages  —  Let  us  eat  plenty  of  flour — Missionary 
work  not  a  pleasure  trip  — The  Master's  grent  lesson  — Washing 
disciples'  feet  —  Mark  Twain  outdone  —  Kind  of  men  and 
women  wanted  —  Episcopalian  examples  —  Bishops  Patterson 
and  Selwyn  —  Christiy  work  —  Girded  with  towels  — Seeking 
to  save  —  Missionary  must  denationalize  himself  —  Patterson 
martyred  —  New  Zealand  savages  —  Eleven  men  killed  and 
eaten  — Power  of  the  gospel —  Missionaries  must  lay  all  at  foot 
of  cross  —  Missions  cost  money  —  St  Xavier's  rievotion  —  Joy 
of  helping  to  save  — Then  the  final  victory —  Universal  joy.  "  155-166 


x  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XIV. 

Gathered  fragments  —  Abiding  impressions  —  Glories  of  the  land  — 
Wonders  of  the  sea  — Coleridge's  hyrnn  —  Depths  of  the  seas- 
Most  ancient  land  —  Oldest  forms  of  bird-life  —  Volcanic  forces 
still  actiye  — Wai kato  wonders  — Raised  benches  — Stranded  ves- 
sel—  No  snakes  —  No  lion,  tiger  or  wolf — Man  a  recent  intro- 
duction— Hunted  the  wingless  moa  — Birds  sixteen  feet  high- 
Ground  ovens  of  first  settlers  —  Barbarous  feasts — Bones  of 
birds  and  children — Maorie  skeleton  —  Advent  of  the  Maorie 
race  —  Genealogy  of  a  noble  family  —  Came  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands  —  Native  songs  collected — Feather  buried  —  The  last 
relic  of  the  moa  —  Tasmania  —  Australia  in  its  natural  history 

—  Tasmanian  tiger  devil  —  A    friendly   caution  —  Sea-weeds  — 
Kangaroos— Leap  fifteen  feet —  Australian  animal  life  stands 
alone  —  Marsupials  —  Monotremes  —  Duck  billed    platypus  — 
Spiny  ant-eater  —  Gigantic  fossil  lions  — Bears  and  kangaroos 

—  Serpents  —  Strange    fishes  —  Sharks  —  Kangaroo    hunting  — 
White  ant  —  Borer  —  Cactus  —  Ferns  —  Parasites  —  Medusae  — 
Octopus  — Giant  trees 167-179 

LETTER  XV. 

On  the  sea  — Great  waves  —  Retrospect  —  Sixteen  baptisms  —  Open 
communion  —  Faithful,  but  not  heresy  hunters  —  Armor- 
plated  fish  — Sea  weeds  —  Rocky  coast  — A  birth-day  and  social 
gathering  —  A  loving  gift  —  Farewell  gathering  —  Accompanied 
to  the  ship — Alone  —  Melbourne  again  —  Adelaide  and  friends 

—  Unabated  storm  —  Ocean  birds  —  Aborigines  —  Some  Mission- 
ary success  —  Far  away  —  Lunar  rainbow  —  The  great  and  wide 
sea  — Southern  cross  —  The  Red  Sea  —  "  Sorrow  of  the  sea" 

—  Buried    in    the   deep  —  Sinai  visible  —  Egypt   and    Israel  — 
Burning  desert  — Arab  tents  —  Suez  —  Trading  Arabs  — Grasp- 
ing whites  —  Suez  canal — Camping  Arabs  —  Port  Said  a  hard 
place  — Beggars  — Veiled   women— Taking  on  coal  — Men  al- 
most  naked  —  Free    fight  —  Confusion    of   tongues  —  Injured 
man  — Curious  Treatment —  Thieves  on  ship  — Backsheesh  — 
In  the  Mediterranean  — Mount  ^Etna  —  Straits  of  Messina  — 
Stromboli  —  Vesuvius  —  Pillar   of   fire    and    clond  — Electric 
Light  —  Wonderful  effect  —  See  Naples  and  die  —  Lofty  houses, 
Narrow  streets  —  Poor  people  —  Monks  and  priests  —  Naples  not 
the  best  place  in  which  to  die  — Beggar  girls  — Consigned  to 

the  antipodes  of  heaven  —  Region  of  wonders  left  behind.        180-201 

LETTER  XVI. 

Gibraltar  —  Bay  of  Biscay  —  A  feeble  folk  —  Mr.  Plimsol  and  the  de- 
vouring sea  —  England  in  sight  —  The  stars  and  stripes  —  Lon- 
don once  more  — Brotherly  greeting  — Old  time  friends  — A 
Bible  talk  —  Southportand  presentation  —  Not  a  strong  church 

—  Garfield  and  our  uncrowned  Queen.     Liverpool  work  — So- 
cial tea  and  presentation  —  Going  to  London  —  Perhaps   not 
wise  — Bound  for  the  West  — Old  Disciples  — A  precious  lesson 

—  Old  times  and  loving  cooperation — Final  adieu  —  Frivolous 
passengers  —  Safely  on  shore —Unexpected   welcome —  Well- 
known    hospitable    home  —  Incurable    mischief  —  A    broken 
sickle  —  Brings  important  telegram  —  Hasty  preparations — How 
we  started  on  the  long  journey —  Expenses  — Life  — Counting 
the  cost  —  Redeeming  the  time  —  Acts  of  the  apostles  —  Strik- 
ing facts  — Lesson  learned  — Wonderful  gentleness  of  the  gos- 
pel—  Parting  glance  at  Christian   work  in   colonies  —  Work 
needed  done— Universal  cooperation  — The  journey  and   its 
perils  over  —  Responsibilities  remain 202-221 


A  TRIP  ARDUND  THE  WORLD. 


LETTER  I. 

FROM   OMAHA   TO   THE   PACIFIC. 

ON  Friday  evening,  September  17,  1880,  I  received 
a  telegram  from  Bro.  Coop,  proposing  to  me  what 
amounted  to  a  trip  around  the  world  —  not  for  pleas- 
ure and  health  only,  but  to  take  a  brief  survey  of 
whatever  of  mission  work  might  fall  in  our  path  on 
the  journey. 

In  the  true  spirit  of  missions,  my  dear  wife  at  once 
consented  to  give  me  up,  and  at  no  small  cost  to  her- 
self of  heavy  care,  hard  work  and  real  privation.  A 
deluge,  almost,  of  rain  fell  during  the  night,  making 
it  doubtful  if  it  would  be  possible  to  drive  over  the 
seven  miles  intervening  between  me  and  the  Union 
Pacific  depot  at  Lincoln.^ 

On  Saturday  morning,  at  five  o'clock,  gathering 
my  dear  ones  around  me,  and  all  kneeling  in  prayer, 
commending  them  to  the  Father's  care,  I  left  home 

once  more,   "not  knowing  what  should   befall   me." 

(11) 


12  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

My  son  drove  me  to  Lincoln,  the  water  on  my  own 
farm  running  over  the  bottom  of  the  buggy.  Reach- 
ing Omaha  at  12:15, 1  found  Bro.  Coop  quietly  enjoy- 
ing a  lunch  in  the  sleeping-car.  The  moment  he 
saw  me  he  was  on  his  feet  and  off  to  the  ticket-office. 
In  purchasing  a  ticket  to  San  Francisco,  one  of 
'those  curious  mistakes  occurred  which  involve  several 
others.  In  the  hurry  of  the  moment,  whilst  Bro. 
Coop  paid  down  the  money  for  a  first-class  ticket,  the 
agent,  by  mistake,  gave  him  an  emigrant  ticket! 
Neither  of  them  observed  the  mistake.  Going  then 
to  the  office  of  the  Pullman  Sleeping  Car  Company, 
the  agent,  without  observing  the  mistake,  sold  him  a 
ticket  for  the  sleeping-car,  handing  both  tickets  to 
me.  I  did  not  observe  the  mistake  either,  and  show- 
ing them  both  to  the  keeper  of  the  car,  he  also  failed 
to  see  it,  and  passed  me  in.  By  and  by  the  train 
moved  off,  and  the  conductor  examined  the  ticket  and 
checked  it  off — and  he  did  not  discover  the  mistake 
either. 

On  Lord's  day  afternoon,  when  a  new  conductor 
came  on  the  train,  the  moment  he  saw  the  ticket,  he 
said:  "I  can  not  honor  that  ticket!"  Then  the  mis- 
take was  apparent  enough.  A  telegram  was  sent  to 
Omaha  from  the  next  station  to  ask  about  the  mis- 
take, and  on  Monday  evening  we  received  an  answer 
correcting  it.  The  conductors  were  all  exceedingly 
courteous  in  the  whole  matter. 

At  most  of  the  hotels  on  the  whole  line  from 
Omaha  to  San  Francisco,  the  meals  provided  are  very 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  13 

much  worse  in  quality,  and  the  charge  for  them  just 
as  high,  as  in  the  superbly  splendid  Palace  Hotel  of 
San  Francisco.  Some  of  them  are  not  much  better 
than  places  designed  to  give  very  poor  meals  at  very 
extortionate  charges. 

After  leaving  Omaha,  we  were  astonished  at  the 
universally  desolate  aspect  of  the  whole  country.  It 
requires  more  than  the  average  stock  of  love  of  coun- 
try to  see  anything  beautiful  for  very  many  hundreds 
of  miles.  A  sail  up  the  river  Clyde,  in  Scotland,  or 
the  river  Hudson,  in  New  York  State,  will  furnish 
more  to  delight  the  eye  and  satisfy  a  love  of  the 
beautiful  than  the  whole  distance  from  Omaha  to  San 
Francisco.  Desolation  holds  supreme  dominion. 

Finding  that  we  could  spend  one  night  and  most  of 
one  day  in  Salt  Lake  City,  and  still  be  in  time,  with 
nearly  two  days  to  spare,  to  spend  in  San  Francisco 
before  embarking  for  Australia,  we  broke  our  journey 
at  Reno,  and  taking  the  cars  on  the  Utah  Central 
Pacific  at  7  P.  M.,  in  about  two  hours  we  were  in  the 
far-famed  city  of  Mormons  and  polygamy.  Of  course 
our  curiosity  was  intensely  alive,  and  we  did  our  best 
to  gratify  it  in  the  few  hours  at  our  disposal.  We 
put  up  at  the  Walker  House,  the  best  hotel  in  the 
city.  Whether  the  owners  are  Mormons,  we  did  not 
clearly  ascertain. 

The  city  itself  is  most  admirably  laid  out.  The 
streets,  miles  in  length,  are  132  feet  wide,  including 
the  very  ample  sidewalks.  Most  of  the  streets  are 
planted  on  either  side  with  a  splendid  line  of  the 


14  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

locust  tree,  which  here  did  not  seem  to  be  so  subject 
to  the  ravages  of  the  borer  as  in  Iowa  or  Wiscon- 
sin. The  shade  afforded  by  them  is  very  agreeable, 
whilst  underneath  each  line  of  shade  trees,  close  to 
the  curb  of  the  sidewalk,  there  runs  a  fine  stream  of 
clear,  cool  water,  brought  from  the  mountains.  Of 
course,  Salt  Lake  being  to  the  Mormon  the  Zion  of 
the  last  days,  it  is  very  natural  that  he  should  call  at 
least  one  of  the  rivers  of  the  valley,  the  Jordan. 
Located  on  one  of  the  banks  of  the  Utah  Jordan,  it 
is  said,  resides  an  apostle  or  bishop  of  the  saints,  who 
has  the  rare  faculty  of  ruling  about  eleven  wives!  It 
is,  however,  waggishly  suggested  that  he  does  some- 
times sing  in  plaintive  tone  — 

"On  Jordan's  stormy  banks  I  stand,"  etc. 

As  we  were  nearing  Salt  Lake  City  on  the  cars,  we 
became  aware  that  we  were  in  close  proximity  to  both 
a  Mormon  apostle  and  a  bishop.  We  dropped  into 
conversation  with  them,  and  were  not  a  little  sur- 
prised to  find  the  apostle  as  agreeably  communicative 
as  one  could  desire.  He  pointed  out  objects  of  inter- 
est on  the  road,  told  us  he  had  been  to  England,  and 
had  held  " conferences"  in  nearly  every  county  in  the 
kingdom.  He  told  us  that  if  we  were  at  the  Temple 
about  11  o'clock  on  the  next  day,  he  would  introduce 
us  to  the  President  of  the  church. 

After  reaching  our  hotel,  and  taking  supper,  we 
had  a  stroll  through  one  or  two  of  the  streets  of  Salt 
Lake  City.  The  quiet  and  order  are  very  noticeable, 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  15 

At  least  three-fourths  of  the  entire  population  are 
Mormons,  although  the  Protestant  Episcopalians,  the 
Methodists,  Catholics,  Presbyterians  and  Congrega- 
tionalists,  have  each  a  church  edifice  in  the  city. 
Every  business  man  to  whom  we  spoke  was  a  Mor- 
man  —  excepting  one  or  two — and  apparently,  most 
earnestly  so.  They  were  all,  without  exception,  ready 
at  once  to  enter  upon  a  defense  of  the  system,  and 
like  men  who  had  entire  faith  in  it.  We  were  not  a 
little  surprised  to  find  that  in  not  one  of  them,  with 
whom  we  conversed,  was  there  even  a  shade  of  timid- 
ity, but  in  all  a  quiet,  earnest,  fearless  readiness  to 
avow  their  faith  and  defend  it.  Stepping  into  the 
street-cars,  in  which  were  three  gentleman  besides  our- 
selves, we  entered  into  conversation  with  them,  ap- 
parently all  strangers  to  each  other,  and  found  they 
were  all  Mormons.  The  eldest  of  them,  in  answer  to 
our  questions,  told  us  that  polygamy  was  not  an  insti- 
tution for  the  richer  Mormons  only,  but  for  the  poorer 
ones  also,  and  that  great  numbers  of  workingmen  had 
more  than  one  wife.  This  man  was  a  Scotchman ; 
told  us  he  was  married,  had  one  wife  and  five  chil- 
dren, but  that  his  wife  often  pressed  it  upon  him  to 
take  a  second  wife !  His  love  for  her,  however,  was 
so  supreme,  that  he  would  not  do  so,  lest,  although 
she  strongly  desired  it  herself,  he  should  grieve  her  by 
so  doing!  It  was  a  strange  thing  to  hear  a  Scotch- 
man calmly  enter  into  reasons  in  defense  of  the  sys- 
tem. Every  man  to  whom  we  spoke  —  and  we  spoke 
to  many  —  answered  our  questions  on  the  matter,  like 


16  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

men  who  believed  it  to  be  a  divine  institution,  rees- 
tablished by  direct  revelation  in  these  latter  days. 
Another,  with  whom  we  entered  into  conversation, 
told  us  he  was  from  Denmark,  formerly  fire-works 
maker  to  the  King  of  Denmark.  He  said,  in  reply 
to  our  questions,  that  all  his  expectations  in  coming 
to  Utah  had  been  more  than  realized.  All  of  them, 
when  asked  if  they  did  not  expect  the  General 
Government  would  put  polygamy  down,  answered, 
"Never/'  Another,  a  tradesman,  and  one  of  the 
"  Seventy/'  said  to  us,  "  Do  you  think,  if  I  did  not 
know  that  this  was  of  God,  that  at  the  call  of  the 
church,  1  would  leave  my  family  and  business,  and 
without  scrip  or  purse  go  on  a  mission  to  Europe?" 
He  was,  perhaps,  36  years  of  age,  and  had  been  on 
such  a  mission.  He  informed  us  that  about  three 
companies  of  Mormons,  of  about  400  each,  had  ar- 
rived at  Salt  I/ake  City,  and  that  another  company  of 
about  the  same  number  was  expected  in  a  few  days, 
and  all  of  whom  they  had  distributed,  or  would  in 
two  or  three  days,  amongst  their  numbers,  so  that 
hardly  one  could  be  seen  about  the  city  in  a  day  after 
their  arrival.  It  is  evident  to  almost  the  blindest 
observer,  that  apart  from  the  religious  infatuation 
which  has  drawn  them  together,  the  most  consum- 
mate business  skill  enters  into  everything  they  do. 
We  visited  the  vast  establishment  called  Zion  Co- 
operative Mercantile  Institution,  all  over  which  we 
were  shown  with  the  utmost  readiness  and  courtesy. 
It  is  330  feet  long,  by  99  in  breadth,  and  filled  from 


HENRY   EXLEY. 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  17 

basement  to  topmost  room  with  such  an  array  of  mer- 
chandise as  the  finest  mercantile  establishment  in 
Christendom  might  be  proud  of. 

After  this  we  went  to  visit  the  Tabernacle,  and  the 
Temple  now  in  course  of  erection.  One  of  the  Mor- 
mon officials  most  courteously  conducted  us  to  the 
great  Tabernacle,  in  the  Temple  Block.  It  is  233 
by  133  feet,  inside  measurement,  and  consists  simply 
of  one  great  roof,  supported  by  46  parallelogram  pil- 
lars of  red  sandstone,  and  springs  with  a  single  stride 
from  side  to  side  and  from  end  to  end.  It  is  ellipti- 
cal in  form,  and  from  ceiling  to  floor  is  70  feet.  It 
has  a  seating  capacity  of  13,452,  and  at  their  gather- 
ings it  is  often  filled  in  every  part.  Perhaps  there  is 
hardly  a  building  in  the  world,  of  equal  capacity, 
more  perfect  in  its  acoustics  than  this.  Good  ears 
can  hear  a  pin  drop,  from  the  farthest  part  of  it.  Bro. 
Coop  stood  in  the  place  of  the  speaker,  near  the  great 
organ,  and  Bro.  Exley  went  to  the  farthest  .point 
away  from  him,  in  the  gallery,  and  repeated,  in  a 
low,  conversational  tone, 

*'  Rock  of  ages,  cleft  for  me,"  etc. 

Coop  could  hear  every  word,  whilst  Exley  could  hear 
him  saying,  "  Slower."  It  boasts  of  possessing  the 
second  largest  organ  in  America  (some  say  the  third). 
When  it  was  constructed  it  was  the  largest  that  had 
been  built  in  America,  and  built  by  Utah  artificers  and 
from  material  obtained  in  the  Territory.  The  pipes 
number  nearly  3,000,  the  largest  being  32  feet  long 


18  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

and  2  feet  square  on  the  inside.  The  entire  structure 
is  58  feet  to  the  top  of  the  great  towers,  33  feet  deep, 
and  30  feet  wide.  Four  men  are  required  to  work 
the  blowers. 

The  building  has  20  doors,  all  opening  outward, 
and  nearly  all  9  feet  wide,  and  so  arranged  that  the 
vast  building  can  be  emptied  in  one  and  a  half 
minutes.  * 

The  Temple,  in  course  of  erection,  is  a  marvelous 
structure,  and  very  imposing  in  appearance.  Its 
walls  are  9  feet  9  inches  thick.  Its  corner-stone  was 
laid  April  6,  1853,  and  the  building  is  now  about  55 
feet  above  the  foundation.  It  has  already  cost  over 
$3,000,000,  and  is  expected  to  cost  altogether  some 
ten  or  twelve  millions. 

After  this  we  went  to  the  private  office  of  Presi- 
dent Taylor.  Several  clerks  were  busily  employed, 
and  a  constant  stream  of  men  and  women,  on  busi- 
ness of  one  kind  or  another,  were  passing  in  and  out. 
We  observed  on  the  walls  of  the  office  several  play- 
bills of  different  kinds,  advertising  the  very  mundane 
tastes  of  these  dwellers  in  the  Utah  Zion.  After 
waiting  a  little,  we  were  ushered,  by  Apostle  Rich- 
ards, into  the  presence  of  the  President  of  all  the 
Mormons  —  Apostle  and  President  Jno.  Taylor.  He 
is  a  large  man,  well  advanced  in  years,  and  quite  im- 
posing in  appearance.  We  announced  ourselves  as 
travelers  in  search  of  information,  especially  on  reli- 
gious matters,  and  said  we  should  be  happy  to  receive 
any  information  he  could  give  us.  He  received  us 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  19 

quite  kindly,  and  at  once  entered  into  conversation 
very  freely.  We  asked  him  what  proportion  other 
religious  denominations  in  the  city  bore  to  that  of  the 
Mormons.  He  said  that  he  did  not  know  very  well 
—  that,  in  fact,  he  did  not  much  trouble  himself 
about  them.  He  informed  us  that  the  vast  Temple 
was  bemrr  built  out  of  the  tithes  and  free-will  offer- 

O 

ings  of  the  people,  and  that  if  the  offerings  were 
abundant,  it  would  be  completed  in  about  five  years; 
or  it  might  be  ten  or  even  twenty  years.  He  said 
they  gave  all  denominations  welcome,  and  that  his 
principle  was,  that  all  should  have  full  liberty  to 
carry  out  their  convictions.  We  asked,  "  How  many 
preachers  have  you  now  engaged  in  foreign  fields?" 
He  replied,  "  I  do  not  exactly  know,  but  we  have  a 
great  many,  and  a  great  many  who  are  ready  to  go 
when  called  upon."  When  asked  how  those  preach- 
ers wrere  sustained,  he  said  that  they  went  out  without 
scrip  or  purse,  and  were  self-sustaining,  and  that  they 
had  a  large  number  ready  to  go  on  these  terms! 
When  asked  how  fast  they  were  increasing,  his  reply 
was,  "Rapidly."  We  asked,  "From  whaf  nation- 
ality do  you  receive  most?"  and  his  answer  was,  a  I 
think  Scandinavia,  and  then  Great  Britain  —  mainly 
Welsh  —  but  very  few  from  Ireland."  They  had  also 
many  from  the  nations  of  Northern  Europe.  At  this 
point  we  thought  we  had  occupied  quite  a  reasonable 
amount  of  time,  and  after  thanking  him  for  his  kind- 
ness in  so  readily  answering  our  questions,  and  after 
an  introduction  to  Joseph  F.  Smith,  an  apostle,  and  a 


20  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

nephew  of  Joseph  Smith,  the  founder  of  the  system, 
we  withdrew.  During  the  interview  we  learned  from 
Mr,  Taylor,  that  they  had  77  quorums,  of  70  elders 
each,  and  all  of  them  ready  to  go  and  preach  at  the 
church's  bidding.  One  thing,  omitted  in  writing 
about  the  Great  Tabernacle,  is  itself  a  noticeable 
thing.  On  the  left-hand  side  of  the  great  organ  is  a 
large  collection  of  sage-brush,  with  small  sun-flowers, 
and  one  small  pine  tree,  and  on  a  large  calico  strip, 
the  figures  1847.  This  symbolizes  that  when  the 
Mormons  came  to  Utah,  in  that  year,  they  found  not  a 
single  blade  of  grass  in  the  region ;  nothing  but  sage- 
brush, sunflowers  and  pine  trees.  On  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  organ  were  sage-brush,  sunflowers  and 
every  variety  of  flowers,  to  indicate  that  they  had 
made  the  wilderness  to  blossom  as  the  rose;  and 
amongst  them  all,  in  great  figures,  1880.  We  came 
away  deeply  impressed  with  the  fact,  that  te  organiza- 
tion," thorough,  systematic,  and  on  the  best  business 
plans,  was  at  the  root  of  all  their  success.  We  won- 
dered what  grand  results  for  Christ  and  the  world 
would  be  accomplished  by  our  brethren,  if  but  a  simi- 
lar spirit  filled  them,  and  similar  common  sense  and 
business-like  plans  and  methods  could  find  a  place 
among  us. 

We  left  Utah's  wonderful  city  at  3:30  P.  M.,  Sept. 
22,  for  Ogden,  where  again  we  set  our  faces  west- 
ward. In  the  cars  again,  we  found,  on  entering  into 
conversation,  Mormons  were  around  us,  and,  as  usual, 
apparently  most  firm  believers  in  the  entire  system. 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  21 

(If  I  am  not  mistaken,  as  I  think  of  it  at  this  mo- 
ment, this  same  President  Taylor  had  a  discussion  at 
Boulogne-sur-mer,  with  some  Protestant  preacher, 
nearly  forty  years  ago,  and  in  it  lie  denied  the  polyg- 
amous practices  of  the  Mormons.  I  had  a  copy  of 
that  debate,  and  at  the  same  time  some  published 
"  revelations "  on  the  subject,  and  in  debate  .with  a 
Salt  Lake  City  elder  in  my  native  town,  nearly  thirty 
years  ago,  read  from  both,  and  with  such  effect  that 
for  nearly  two  years  after  no  Mormon  ever  preached 
openly  again  in  that  town.  I  am  reminded  of  this, 
as  I  think  Mr.  Taylor  told  us  he  had  been  in  Europe. 
—  EXLEY.) 

We  reached  in  safety  San  Francisco,  Thursday 
evening,  Sept.  23.  When,  as  we  were  seeking  our 
way  to  the  entrance  to  cross  on  the  ferry,  a  gentle- 
man, hearing  us  asking  the  way,  said:  "You  are 
English,  are  you  not?"  Bro.  Exley  replied,  "Yes; 
and  so  are  you,  are  you  not?"  "Yes."  "From 
what  part?"  "  Wakefield."  Bro.  Exley,  grasping 
the  man's  hand,  said,  "So  am  I.  Lot  me  look  at 
your  face;"  and  after  a  close  scrutiny,  exclaimed,  as 
he  shook  hands  in  a  very  warm  fashion,  and  heart- 
ily laughing,  "Why!  it's  Joe  Moore!  The  last  time 
I  saw  you  was  in  Bradford,  when  I  held  that  public 
debate  with  David  Lighthowler,  one  of  Mr.  Joseph 
Barker's  friends  and  followers."  Mr.  Moore  said: 
"  That  is  thirty-two  years  since.  I  was  then  a  skeptic 
—  a  socialist  of  the  Robert  Owenites.  I  am  now  a 
Methodist." 


22  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

We  went  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  the  first  business 
attended  to,  was  to  look  in  the  city  directory,  to  see  if 
there  was  a  Christian  Church.  We  found  that  there 
was,  copied  names  and  addresses  of  officers,  and  dis- 
patched postal  cards;  and  next  evening  Bros.  H.  H. 
Luse  and  McCollough  waited  upon  us.  We  asked  as 
to  the  condition  of  the  cause  in  California,  and  were 
rejoiced  to  hear  that  a  Woman's  Board  of  Missions 
had  been  formed,  and  that  the  late  State  Meeting  was 
the  best  ever  held  in  the  State.  In  San  Francisco 
city  we  learned  that  there  were  about  seventy  mem- 
bers, and  that  Bro.  McCollough  was  engaged  as  their 
preacher.  He  seems  confident  of  success.  We  heard 
many  reasons  for  the  backward  condition  of  the  cause 
in  California,  one  of  which  was  the  influence  of  a  cer- 
tain anti-mission  paper;  another,  that  some  churches 
had  almost  been  talked  to  death  by  an  unhappy  kind 
of  "mutual  teaching;"  another  reason  was  strife 
about  the  organ. 

A  curious  settling  of  the  organ  question  came  to 
our  knowledge.  It  seems  that,  in  order  to  bring 
about  a  revival  of  the  cause  in  California,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  send  for  Knowles  Shaw.  This  brought  up 
the  item  that  he  would  have  good  music  and  singing; 
when  the  question  was  asked,  "  What  is  meant  by 
good  music?"  The  reply  was,  "  An  organ."  Some 
at  once  wished  to  write  to  Knowles  Shaw  not  to  come. 
One  brother  then  said,  "  As  this  organ  question  has 
been  troubling  us  for  a  long  time,  I  now  propose  that 
we  settle  that  question  by  buying  an  organ."  This 


FROM  OMAHA  TO  THE  PACIFIC.  23 

was   carried,    an    organ    bought,    and    that    question 
"sound-ly"  settled. 

On  Saturday,  Sept.  25,  we  took  lunch  at  Bro. 
Luse's,  in  company  with  his  very  affable  and  court- 
eous lady,  and  Bros.  McCollough  and  Sturgess.  After 
lunch,  and  conversation  concerning  the  cause  of  the 
Master,  Bro.  Exley  sat  at  the  organ,  Bro.  Luse  played 
the  violin,  and  we  all  sang  — 

"1  am  so  glad  that  Jesus  loves  me;" 

after  which  we  all  knelt  before  the  mercy-seat,  and 
commended  each  other  to  the  care  of  Him  who  made 
the  sea,  and  the  dry  land  also.  We  \yerc  then  driven 
down  to  the  vessel  —  the  Ze^alandia —  and  in  about 
two  minutes  after  we  were  on  board  we  stood  clear  of 
the  shore,  bound  for  New  Zealand  and  Australia,  and* 
perhaps  around  the  world. 

At  this  point  we  close,  as  we  expect  to  meet  a  ves- 
sel and  send  on  with  it  our  mail.  We  shall  probably 
write  again  from  Honolulu  —  certainly  from  New 
Zealand,  where  we  expect  to  meet  with  Bro.  Caleb 
Wallis,  son  of  the  late  lamented  James  Wallis,  of 
Nottingham,  England,  a  gentleman  on  board  giving 
us  his  address.  T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 


LETTER  II. 

THE   SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

OUR  last  letter  was  put  into  the  Purser's  hands  two 
clays  before  we  reached  Honolulu,  supposing  it  would 
be  transmitted  to  you  by  the  mail-steamer  we  were 
expecting  to  meet;  but,  as  we  never  saw  it,  the  letter 
would  be  carried  on  to  Honolulu,  and  there  wait 
for  the  next  mail-steamer.  Owing  to  our  haste  to 
have  it  ready,  it  was  likely  a  very  disjointed  letter. 

We  reached  Honolulu,  Sandwich  Islands,  on  Satur- 
day evening,  Oct.  2,  about  9  o'clock.  We  remained 
there  until  11:20  Lord's  day  morning.  Taking  ad- 
vantage of  the  time,  we  went  on  shore  directly  after 
breakfast,  to  see  and  learn  what  we  could,  in  some 
three  hours,  at  most,  at  our  disposal.  It  was  with 
real  delight  we  stepped  on  shore  and  went  into  the 
city  of  Honolulu.  Everything  was  so  new,  so  strange, 
so  beautiful.  Some  one  has  called  the  Sandwich 
Islands  the  "  Paradise  of  the  Pacific."  There  is  said 
to  be  no  local  disease  of  any  kind,  or  periodic  sick- 
ness. The  heat  of  summer  is  not  oppressive,  and  the 
winters,  if  winter  is  at  all  applicable  to  such  a  coun- 
try, are  never  cold !  It  was  October  when  we  went 
ashore  at  Honolulu,  and  the  delightful  warmth,  the 
light,  breezy  air,  and  the  strange  and  wonderful 


THK  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  25 

growths  of  the  feathered  cocoa  nut  —  tall,  beautiful, 
and  with  great  numbers  of  the  fruit  hanging  upon 
them  —  bananas,  with  their  clusters  of  bananas,  um- 
brella-trees, palm  trees,  and  other  tropical  growths  — 
made  us  fuel  we  were  where  all  the  conditions  of  life 
are  wonderfully  unlike  anything  within  the  range  of 
our  experience  before.  The  very  waters  of  the  sea 
surrounding  these  islands  are  an  indescribable  blue, 
and  the  "mist  upon  the  mountains"  —  mountains  that 
have  been  rocked  and  split  and  torn  by  earthquakes, 
or  have  themselves  belched  out  rivers  of  lava  and 
fire  —  throws  the  charm  of  mystery  over  everything. 
We  went  walking  along  several  streets  in  the  main 
business  part  of  the  city.  There  are  large  numbers 
of  Chinese,  and  most  that  we  saw,  and  we  saw  many, 
seemed  clean,  tidy  and  wide-awake.  We  did  not 
learn  if  they  had  a  ".Joss"  house,  but  we  saw  their 
theater,  and  judging  from  a  hasty  outside  view  of  it, 
it  seemed  to  be  larger  than  any  church  building  in  the 
city.  They  seemed  to  have  a  large  number  of  shops, 
and  well  crowded  together.  The  dark-skinned  Hono- 
lulans  seemed  a  very  quiet,  cheerful,  and  very  bright- 
eyed  people.  Their  eyes  and  teeth  are  unquestion- 
ably beautiful.  The  movements  of  the  younger 
women  are  very  graceful  —  nothing  angular  about 
them.  They  all  seem  to  love  finery  in  dress.  Most 
of  the  women,  no  matter  how  well  dressed  otherwise, 
seemed  to  be  without  shoes  and  stockings.  All  wore 
a  long,  robe-like  dress,  and  unconfined  at  the  waist. 
One  rather  elderly  lady,  dressed  in  a  magnificent 


26  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

crimson  silk  dress,  attracted  our  notice  by  repeatedly 
stopping  to  so  arrange  her  dress  that  the  most  of  it 
could  be  seen,  and  also  her  spotlessly  white  under- 
skirt at  the  same  time. 

When  tired  of  walking,  we  hired  a  carriage,  and 
were  driven  around  the  city  by  a  native  Honohilan  — 
a  city  resting  amidst  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  umbrella- 
trees,  oranges,  and  passion-flowers.  As  we  passed 
through  the  hospital  grounds,  we  were  almost  horri- 
fied to  find  ourselves  in  such  close  proximity  to 
leprosy.  One  man  seemed  to  have  no  mouth,  and  the 
face  of  another  was  awful  to  look  upon.  Leprosy 
is  doing  a  fearfully  destructive  work  among  the  na- 
tives. It  is  called  the  "Chinese  leprosy,"  but  is  at- 
tributable to  quite  other  causes  than  climate  or  local 
disease  or  influence. 

We  visited  the  Congregational  Church,  in  which  the 
royal  family  worship  —  a  large,  substantial  building 
—  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  also  very  large, 
and  very  finely  decorated  with  paintings.  They  have 
evidently  affirm  footing  among  the  Honolulans.  We 
also  visited  the  Episcopalian  Church,  also  large  and 
substantial.  The  Episcopalians  —  of  whom  some  one 
has  written,  that  they  plant  a  mission  only  where 
others  have  been  before  them  —  have  the  idea  that 
they  are  called  to  some  great  work  here,  which  others 
can  not  do  so  well  as  they.  In  a  recent  report  of 
their  work  there,  they  thus  discourse : 

"The  sumptuous  Cathedral  has  not  risen  many  inches 
above  the  ground,  and  the  fund  for  its  erection  is  at  a  stand- 


THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  27 

still,  if  it  be  not  exhausted.  But  the  spiritual  temple  is 
growing,  and  the  bishop,  so  far  from  being  disheartened,  de- 
clares that  every  day  is  opening  out  fresh  opportunities  for 
the  mission  —  that  the  religion  which  the  islanders  received 
from  the  descendants  of  the  pilgrim  fathers,  has  lost  its  power, 
and  that  unless  the  people  for  whom  the  English  Church 
twenty  years  ago  professed  so  ardent  a  sympathy,  are  to  fall 
a  prey  to  emissaries  from  Utah,  or  to  be  drawn  into  the 
Church  of  Rome,  his  own  h  inds  must  be  strengthened.  It 
is,  in  one  aspect,  a  discouraging  story  the  bishop  has  to  tell, 
but  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  the  Society's  aid  has  saved 
an  interesting  mission  from  extinction,  and  the  mother 
church  from  the  full  weight  of  reproach." 

The  future  of  religion  in  Honolulu  may  prove  an 
extremely  interesting  study.  We  visited  the  Pacific 
Mission  station,  in^the  hope  of  learning  any  interest- 
ing particulars  about  missionary  matters,  hut  found 
no  one  there,  as  it  appeared  to  be  wholly  abandoned 
to  plasterers,  etc.,  who  were  entirely  rehabilitating  it. 
The  king's  palace  is  a  splendid  building,  and  so  is  the 
block  of  buildings  occupied  by  the  government.  We 
passed  through  the  grounds  occupied  by  the  late 
Queen-Mother.  She  was  to  be  buried  the  day  of  our 
visit.  There  was  a  very  solid,  broad  slide,  built  from 
the  ground  up  to  the  second  story  of  her  residence, 
down  which  the  coffin  was  to  be  passed  to  the  carriage 
to  receive  it.  The  weight  of  the  coffin  was  said  to  be 
12,000  pounds.  A  large  number  of  passengers  signed 
a  request  to  the  captain  of  our  ship,  to  remain  a  few 
hours  longer,  that  we  might  witness  the  funeral.  He 
was  unable  to  gratify  us,  and  so,  after  we  had  ex- 
hausted our  time,  we  went  on  board  again.  For  fully 


28  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

half  an  hour  before  sailing,  we  amused  ourselves 
watching  a  number  of  dark-skinned  Honolulan  boys, 
who  came  swimming  around  the  ship,  and  apparently 
as  much  at  home  in  the  sea  as  ducks  in  a  pond.  A 
goodly  number  of  small  pieces  of  silver  were  thrown 
into  the  water,  with  as  much  force  as  possible ;  but 
long  before  any  piec?  could  reach  the  bottom,  these 
little  fellows,  at  once  plunging  down,  heels  over  head, 
had  caught  it,  and  as  soon  as  the  lucky  one  came  to 
the  surface,  he  opened  his  hand,  and  holding  it  up  be- 
tween his  thumb  and  fingers,  put  it  into  his  mouth, 
and  was  ready  for  another  dive. 

Salt  water  seems  to  have  no  influence  on  their  eyes, 
as  they  dive  down  with  them  wide  open,  and  do  n't 
rub  them  when  they  come  to  the  surface. 

Since  Capt.  Cook  discovered  these  Islands,  in  1778, 
verv  great  changes  have  taken  place.  The  inhabi- 
tants were  then  all  idolaters,  but  not  cannibals.  It 
may  be,  however,  that  there  have  been  one  or  two  ex- 
ceptions to  this/)  It  was  here  Capt.  Cook  was  mur- 
dered, and  a  monument  has  been  erected  to  com- 
memorate the  catastrophe.  It  was  not,  however, 
until  1819,  that  the  inhabitants  voluntarily  threw 
away  their  idols,  and  renounced  idolatry ;  and  not 
until  1837,  or  nearly  forty  years  after,  that  they  man- 
ifested any  intense  interest  in  the  Christian  religion, 
/'in  1835,  Rev.  Titus  Coan,  Congregational ist,  entered 
'  upon  his  work  in  these  islands,  as  a  missionary,  prior 
to  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lyman  had  for  some  years 
been  laboring,  and  evidently,  the  good  seed  which 


THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  29 

they  had  sown,  had  not  been  lost.  On  the  first  Lord's 
day  in  July,  1838,  2,400  persons,  all  of  whom  had 
been  idolaters,  were  admitted  to  the  Lord's  table;  and 
assuredly  it  was  a  wonderful  gathering.  Amongst 
them,  "  the  old  and  decrepid,  the  lame,  the  blind,  the 
maimed,  the  withered,  the  paralytic,  and  those  af- 
flicted with  divers  diseases  and  torments  —  some  with 
their  noses,  lips  and  limbs  consumed,  with  features 
destroyed,  figures  depraved  and  loathsome  —  these 
came  hobbling  along  on  their  staves,  or  were  borne 
by  others,  to  the  table  of  the  Lord;"  among  them, 
the  hoary  priest  of  idolatry,  with  his  hands  but 
recently  washed  from  the  blood  of  human  victims, 
together  with  thieves,  idolaters,  and  mothers  whose 
hands  had  reeked  with  the  blood  of  their  own  chil- 
dren. From  1837,  to  1841  or  1842,  a  great  religious 
wave  seems  to  have  swept  over  these  Islands,  when 
even  young  people  ran  up  into  the  mountains  to  carry 
the  good  news  of  the  love  of  God  to  their  benighted 
friends.  They  spoke  of  the  good  life  to  come  to  the 
old  and  sick,  and  of  the  "endless  life  of  Jesus," 
as  the  most  joyful  news  they  had  ever  heard ;  as  they 
said,  "  breaking  upon  them  like  light  in  the  morn- 
ing." "Will  my  spirit  never  die?  and  will  this  poor 
body  live  again?"  exclaimed  one  old  chieftess.  Then 
there  were  only  two  preachers  to  15,000  people;  but 
the  people  were  so  eager  to  hear,  that  the  sick  and  in- 
firm were  brought  on  litters,  or  carried  on  the  backs 
of  men  —  and  some  even  crawled  on  their  hands  and 
knees,  or  any  way  they  could,  to  the  path  over  which 


30  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

the  missionary  had  to  pass,  that  they  might  hear  of 
the  good  news,  and  saying,  "  If  we  die,  let  us  die  in 
the  light!" 

The  Islands  are  now  Christian,  and  have  all  the 
appliances  of  a  well  ordered  kingdom,  whilst  their 
king  is  a  thoroughly  well  educated  Christian  gentle- 
man. As  evidence  of  the  reality  of  the  conversion  of 
these  interesting  people,  it  is  stated  that  they  have 
contributed,  since  their  renunciation  of  idolatry,  some 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars,  for  missions.  Mr. 
Coan'e  congregation  alone  contributes  more  than 
$1,200  yearly,  for  the  work  of  foreign  missions,  and 
twelve  of  its  members  have  gone  as  missionaries  to 
the  Isles  of  Southern  Polynesia.)  Mr.  Coan  has  him- 
self admitted  nearly  12,000  people  into  the  church. 
One  very  impressive  testimony  to 'the  saving  power  of 
the  gospel,  is  given  by  Miss  Bird,  in  her  book  on  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  The  high-priest  of  the  crater  of 
Kilauea,  was  considered  a  very  awful  personage. 
This  particular  ene  was  6  feet  5  inches  in  hight,  and 
his  sister,  almost  as  tall,  was  co5rdinate  with  him  in 
authority.  His  chief  business  was  to  keep  Pele,  the 
goddess  of  the  crater,  appeased.  He  lived  on  the 
shore,  but  often  went  up  to  Kilauea  with  sacrifices. 
If  any  victim  was  demanded,  he  had  only  to  point  to 
the  native,  and  the  unfortunate  victim  was  at  once 
strangled.  He  was  not  only  the  embodiment  of 
heathen  idolatry,  but  of  heathen  crime  also.  Robbery 
was  his  pastime,  and  his  temper  was  so  fierce  and  un- 
curbed, that  no  native  darod  to  even  tread  on  his 


THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  31 

shadow.  More  than  once  he  had  killed  a  man  for  the 
sake  of  food  and  clothing  not  worth  50  cents.  He 
was  a  thoroughly  wicked  savage.  Curiosity  attracted 
him  to  one  of  the  mission  meetings,  and  this  bad 
giant  fjll  under  the  power  of  the  gospel  whose  strange 
influence  was  transforming  thousands  of  his  country- 
men into  new  men.  He  said,  "  I  have  been  deceived, 
and  I  have  deceived  others.  I  have  lived  in  dark- 
ness, and  did  not  know  the  true  God.  I  worshiped 
what  was  no  God;  I  renounce  it  all.  The  true  God 
has  come,  and  I  will  henceforth  cleave  to  Him,  and  I 
will  be  his  son."  His  sister,  soon  after,  also  fell 
under  the  same  redeeming  power,  and  both  became 
truly  Christian,  and  became  loving  and  gentle  as  little 
children,  and  both,  at  last,  at  moro  than  seventy  years 
of  age,  passed  peacefully  away  in  the  faith  of  Jesus. 
Of  other  things,  more  in  our  next. 

Since  writing  the  last  letter,  Bro.  Exley  has  been 
very  ill,  and  is  now  not  nearly  strong.  Time  is  done, 
and  this  must  be  posted  now,  or  a  month  may  perhaps 
be  lost,  T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

AUCKLAND,  New  Zealand,  Nov.  8, 1880. 


LETTER  III. 

VOLCANOES    AND   ERUPTIONS. 

OUR  last  letter  was  hurriedly  finished  at  Papakura, 
in  the  house  of  Bro.  Caleb  Wallis,  some  twenty  miles 
from  Auckland,  New  Zealand.  He  is  a  right  noble 
representative  of  his  father,  the  late  and  much  la- 
mented James  Walli?,  editor  of  the  British  Millennial 
Harbinger,  England.  This  letter  we  begin  in  the~ 
home  of  Bro.  Grey,  Wellington,  situated  at  the  ex- 
treme south  of  the  North  Island,  and  from  whence 
we  to-day  sail  for  Christ  Church,  on  the  South  Is- 
land. 

It  was  a  regret  to  us. that  our  time  did  not  allow  us 
to  visit  the  still  active  volcanoes  of  the  Sandwich  Is- 
lands, concerning  which  the  most  thrilling  accounts 
have  been  written  from  time  to  time.  The  crater  of 
the  volcano  Kilauea,  which  has  a  hight  of  8,000  feet, 
nearly,  is  said  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  great  pit 
on  a  rolling  plain;  but  such  a  pit!  It  is  nine  miles 
in  circumference.  Its  depth  is  from  800  to  1100  feet, 
according  as  the  molten  sea  below  is  at  ebb  or  flood. 
The  Hawaiians  call  it  the  Hate-maw-maw,  or  House  of 
everlasting  fire,  and  in  Hawaiian  mythology  it  is  the 
abode  of  the  dreaded  Goddess  Pele.  Here  is  a  fiery 

sea,  whose  waves  are  never  weary.      Its  area  is  six 
(32) 


VOLCANOES  AND  ERUPTIONS.  33 

square  miles,  showing  signs  of  volcanic  action  over 
almost  its  wiiole  extent.  The  movement  of  this  vast, 
fiery  sea,  is  nearly  always  from  the  sides  to  the  center, 
but  the  movement  of  the  center  itself,  appears  to  be 
independent,  and  always  takes  a  southerly  direction. 
The  following  description,  by  Miss  Bird,  published  in 
1876,  is  so  graphic,  that  for  the  sake  of  many  young 
readers,  who  may  not  see  her  book,  it  will  not  be 
unacceptable : 

"  It  is  the  most  unutterable  of  wonderful  things.  It  is  in- 
describable, unimaginable,  a  sight  to  remember  forever  —  a 
sight  which  at  once  took  possession  of  every  faculty  of  sense 
and  soul,  removing  one  altogether  out  of  the  region  of 
earthly  life.  He^e  was  the  real  "bottomless  pit,"  the  "fire 
which  is  not  quenched,  the  place  of  hell/  "  the  place  of 
fire  and  brimstone,"  "everlasting  burnings,"  the  "fiery  sea 
whose  waves  arc  never  weary."  There  were  groanings, 
rumblings,  and  detonations;  rushings,  hissings,  and  splash- 
ings,  and  the  crashing  sound  of  breakers  on  the  coast;  but  it 
was  the  surging  of  fiery  waves  upon  a  fiery  shore.  Now  it 
seemed  furious,  demoniacal,  as  if  no  power  on  earth  could 
hinder  it;  then  playful  and  sportive;  then,  for  a  second, 
languid,  but  only  because  it  was  accumulating  fresh  force. 
On  our  arrival,  eleven  fire-fountains  were  playing  joy- 
ously around  the  lake,  and  sometimes  six  of  the  nearest  ran 
together  in  the  center,  to  go  wallowing  down  in  one  vortex, 
from  which  they  reappeared,  bulging  upwards  till  they 
formed  a  hus;e  cone  thirty  feet  high,  and  which  plunged 
down  in  whirlpools,  only  to  reappear  in  exactly  the  previous 
number  of  fountains  in  different  parts  of  the  lake,  high  leap- 
ing, raging  and  flinging  themselves  upwards.  Sometimes 
the  whole  lake,  abandoning  its  usual  centripetal  motion,  as  if 
impelled  southwards,  took  the  form  of  mighty  waves,  and 
3 


34  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

surging  heavily  against  the  partial  barrier,  with  a  sound  like 
the  Pacific  surf,  lashed,  and  tore,  and  covered  it,  and  threw 
itself  over  it  in  floods  of  living  fire.  It  was  all  commotion, 
confusion,  force,  terror,  majesty,  glory,  mystery,  and  even 
beauty.  And  the  color!  Molten  metal  has  not  that  crimson 
gleam,  nor  blood  that  living  light.  Had  I  not  seen  it,  I 
should  never  have  known  that  such  a  color  was  possible. 
Nearly  the  whole  time  the  surgings  of  the  lake,  taking  a 
southerly  course,  broke  on  the  bold,  craggy  cliffs,  with  a 
tremendous  noise,  and  throwing  their  gory  spray  to  a  bight 
of  fully  40  feet.  Before  we  came  away,  a  new  impulse 
seemed  to  seize  the  lava.  The  fire  was  thrown  to  a  great 
bight;  the  fountains  and  jets  all  wallowed  together  —  new 
ones  appeared,  and  danced  joyfully  around  the  margin  ;  then 
converging  toward  the  center,  they  merged  into  a  glowing 
mass,  which  upheaved  itself  pyramidally,  and  disappeared 
with  a  mighty  plunge.  Then  innumerable  billows  of  fire 
dashed  themselves  in  the  air,  crashing  and  lashing,  and  the 
lake,  dividing  itself,  recoiled  on  either  side;  then  hurling  its 
fires  together,  and  rising  as  if  by  upheaval  from  below,  it 
surged  over  the  temporary  ruin  it  had  formed,  passing 
downward  in  a  slow,  majestic  flow,  leaving  the  central  sur- 
face, swaying  and  dashing  in  fruitless  agony,  as  if  sent  on 
some  errand  it  had  failed  to  accomplish." 

A  few  years  ago  (1859)  the  volcano  Mauna  Loa 
threw  up  fountains  of  fire  nearly  400  feet  in  hight, 
and  of  a  nearly  equal  diameter.  In  1868  terrors  oc- 
curred which  are  without  precedent  in  island  history. 
Earthquakes  became  nearly  continuous,  scarcely  an 
appreciable  interval  between  them.  The  movements 
of  the  earth  were  vertical,  lateral,  rotary  and  undul- 
atory,  producing  nausea,  vertigo  and  vomiting.  The 
crust  of  the  earth  rose  and  sank  like  the  sea  in  a 


VOLCANOES  AND  ERUPTIONS.  35 

storm.  Rocks  were  rent,  mountains  fell,  buildings 
and  their  contents  were  shattered,  trees  swayed  like 
reeds,  and  animals  were  scared  and  ran  about  de- 
mented. Men  thought  the  judgment  day  had  come. 
Horses  and  their  riders,  and  passengers  on  foot,  were 
thrown  violently  to  the  ground.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
rocky  ribs  of  the  mountains,  and  the  granite  walls 
and  pillars  of  the  earth,  were  broken  up.  From  one 
of  these  volcanoes  a  pillar  of  fire  200  feet  in  diameter 
lifted  itself  for  three  weeks  a  thousand  feet  into  the 
air,  making  night  into  day  for  a  hundred  miles  'round. 
From  Mauna  Loa,  an  eruption  of  fiery  lava  traveled 
in  a  straight  line  for  forty  miles  —  or  sixty,  including 
sinuosities;  it  was  from  one  to  three  miles  broad,  and 
from  five  to  two  hundred  feet  deep,  according  to  the 
contour  of  the  mountain  slopes  over  which  it  passed. 
It  lasted  for  nearly  thirteen  months,  pouring  out  a 
torrent  of  lava  which  covered  about  three  hundred 
square  miles  of  land,  the  contents  of  which  were  es- 
timated at  38,000,000,000  cubic  feet.  In  1868,  in  the 
eruption  which  then  took  place,  rocks  weighing  many 
tons  were  thrown  from  500  to  1,000  feet  into  the  air. 
Mr.  Whiting,  of  Honolulu,  who  was  near  the  spot, 
says  that  "  from  these  great  fountains  there  flowed  to 
the  sea  a  rapid  stream  of  red  lava,  rolling,  rushing 
and  tumbling  like  a  swollen  river,  bearing  in  its 
course  large  rocks,  as  it  dashed  down  the  precipices 
and  the  valley,  into  the  sea,  surging  and  roaring 
throughout  its  whole  length  like  a  cataract,  with  a 
power  and  a  fury  perfectly  indescribable.  It  was 


36  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

nothing  else  than  a  river  of  fire,  from  200  to  800  feet 
wide,  and  20  feet  deep,  with  a  speed  varying  from  ten 
to  twenty-five  miles  an  hour."  As  one  becomes  ac- 
quainted with  such  stupendous  facts  as  these,  the  sig- 
nificance and  grandeur  of  the  sacred  question  is 
realized,  "  Who  can  understand  the  thunder  of  His 
power?7' 

It  was  with  reluctance  we  left  these  lands  of  mar- 
vel, of  a  simple,  peaceful,  and  too  rapidly  diminishing 
people,  and  set  sail  again  on  Lord's  day,  Oct.  3,  at  11 
A.  M.  Not  much  of  special  interest  occurred  to  break 
the  sameness  of  our  voyage,  for  days  together.  A 
sail  was  hardly  ever  seen ;  a  lazy  turtle,  too  far  off  for 
soup,  and  a  large,  black  fish,  of  some  kind,  at  a  con- 
siderable distance,  were  about  all  the  signs  of  life  we 
met,  save  numbers  of  flying  fish,  of  which  we  saw 
great  numbers  every  day,  one  of  them  doing  us  the 
special  favor  to  fly  over  the  bulwarks,  making  us 
thus  a  flying  visit.  Its  wings  were  about  three- 
fourths  of  its  whole  length. 

On  Lord's  day,  Oct.  10,  we  had  Church  of  Eng- 
land service,  in  the  morning  at  10:30.  In  the  after- 
noon, at  3  o'clock,  Bro.  Exley,  having  obtained  per- 
mission of  the  Captain,  preached  in  the  saloon,  on 
the  "Divinity  of  Christ."  The  Episcopalian  clergy- 
men, of  whom  we  had  two  on  board,  did  not  put  in 
an  appearance  at  the  meeting.  Prior  to  the  service, 
the  captain  visited  Bro.  Exley  in  his  state-room,  and 
said  to  him,  "  Mr.  Exley,  whilst  personally  I  am  glad 
for  you  to  preach,  yet  as  these  are  Church  of  Eng- 


VOLCANOES  AND  ERUPTIONS.  37 

land  ships,  it  is  hoped  you  will  not  say  anything 
against  the  Church  of  England."  Bro.  Exley  only 
said,  UI  know  they  are  Church  of  England  ships; 
but  I  do  not  believe  in  doing  such  work  as  you  seem 
to  fear.  I  am  going  to  preach  to  them  Christ,  and 
think  they  will  all  rejoice  in  what  I  may  say."  The 
captain  very  kindly  thanked  him,  and  withdrew.  In 
the  evening  there  was  Church  of  England  service  in 
the  forward  part  of  the  vessel,  and  only  some  nine 
persons  present  all  told.  It  was  remarked  over  and 
over  and  over  again,  the  littleness  and  sectarian  spirit" 
manifested  in  these  gentlemen  of  the  apostolic  succes- 
sion, and  but  few  gave  them  their  presence,  whilst  the 
discourse  of  Bro.  Exley  was  the  theme  of  general 
conversation,  and  evidently  had  done  solicj  good. 
From  this  time,  however,  there  came  a  serious  change 
to  Bro.  Exley.  Walking  over  the  ice-smooth  floor  of 
the  Palace  Hotel  at  San  Francisco,  and  with  boots 
almost  as  smooth,  he  slipped,  but  did  not  fall,  but  in 
some  way  sprained  his  back  in  saving  himself  from 
falling.  The  sprain,  though  often  felt,  was  thought  to 
be  of  little  consequence,  and  it  was  hoped  that  it 
would  soon  pass  away.  After  preaching,  however, 
perhaps  from  catching  a  little  cold,  the  pain  increased 
in  intensity  until  he  became  almost  helpless,  and  the 
weather  changing  for  the  worse,  every  lurching  of  the 
vessel  was  added  torture,  so  that  night  and  day  it  was 
continual  suffering  for  the  rest  of  voyage  to  Auck- 
land, and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  intervening 
seven  days,  he  was  unable  to  walk  alone. 


38  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

We  crossed  the  equator  on  Thursday,  the  9th  of 
October.  It  was  very  amusing  to  stand  at  noon  be- 
neath the  sun,  and  look  at  our  shadows,  all  cuddled 
up  under  our  feet.  On  the  10th  of  October  we 
passed  the  Navigator  Islands,  and  the  Sunday  Islands 
on  the  14th.  It  was  exceedingly  warm,  and  had  it 
not  been  for  the  canvas  awning  covering  the  whole 
of  the  hurricane  deck,  it  would  have  been  very  un- 
comfortable. Our  ship's  company  was  every  way 
good  —  quite  a  number  of  tourists  —  one  we  took  to 
be  a  sleek  Jesuit,  ready  to  thrust  the  claims  of  his 
church  before  one  at  every  opportunity,  "  instant  in 
season  and  out  of  season/'  and  almost  as  ready  to  be 
quite  angry  and  insolent  when  rather  hard  pressed. 
Once,  over  the  dinner-table,  Bro.  Exley  asked  him, 
"  Where  is  your  home?"  He  blandly  said,  with  a 
smile,  and  his  eyes  half  closed,  as  he  pointed  upward, 
"Above."  Bro.  Exley  then  pleasantly  said,  "Well, 
yes,  I  would  hope  so;  but  on  the  road,  where  is  your 
stopping-place?"  At  this  he  was  a  little  taken  aback, 
and  looked  hard,  but  said  nothing.  Bro.  Coop,  with 
a  quiet  emphasis,  said,  "  I  know  I  should  not  like  to 
stop  long  at  one  place  on  the  road?"  Our  Catholic 
friend  saw  in  that  a  rather  unpleasant  reminder  of  his 
possible  retention,  for  a  time,  in  purgatory,  and  so  ate 
the  balance  of  his  dinner  in  silence. 

On  Thursday,  at  midnight,  Oct.  14,  we  passed  at 
once  to  Saturday,  the  16th.  We  had  no  Friday.  The 
doctor  visiting  Bro.  Exley,  and  a  high  churchman, 
was  asked  a  rather  puzzling  question:  "Doctor,  how 


VOLCANOES  AND  ERUPTIONS.  39 

do  you  high  church  people  manage,  when  crossing 
this  region  at  the  time  of  the  year,  to  keep  Good 
Friday?"  Of  course  he  had  no  answer.  Our  ship's 
steward  was  exceedingly  kind,  and  to  Bro.  Exley  he 
was  almost  as  gentle  as  a  brother. 

On  Lord's  day,  the  17th,  we  reached  the  city  of 
Auckland,  at  noon,  where,  for  two  or  three  reasons, 
we  determined  to  land  and  spend  a  little  time.  Bro. 
Exley  was  too  ill  to  continue  the  journey  —  then  we 
wanted  to  know  if  there  was  a  church  there,  and  to 
see  how  they  were  doing ;  and  lastly,  but  not  least,  we 
wanted  to  see  Bro.  Caleb  Wallis,  of  Papakura.  We 
went  on  shore  at  2:30  P.  M.,  and  were  at  once  driven 
to  the  Star  Hotel.  A  physician  was  at  once  sent  for, 
as  sought  out  by  Bro.  Coop,  as  Bro.  Exley  was  un- 
able to  sit  up.  It  was  found  that,  in  addition  to  the 
sprain  in  the  back,  the  treatment  of  the  ship's  doctor 
had  entirely  stripped  the  skin  from  a  large  portion  of 
the  side.  This  had  to  be  healed  before  anything 
could  be  done  for  the  back.  Bro.  Coop,  as  usual, 
went  off  to  see  and  learn  all  about  the  churches,  both 
of  our  brethren  and  others,  and  succeeded  soon  in 
finding  a  church  of  our  brethren. 

As  this  letter,  however,  is  long  enough,  and  not 
over  interesting,  all  about  these  matters  must  be  left 
for  another  letter. 

On  Monday,  Bro.  Carr,  a  lumber  merchant,  and  old 
Bro.  Rattray,  an  old  sea  captain,  dropped  in  to  see 
us ;  the  latter  had,  a  short  time  before,  celebrated  his 
golden  wedding. 


40  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Also,  there  came  to  see  us,  a  Mr.  George  A.  Brown, 
a  Baptist  minister,  formerly  of  Lincoln,  England, 
a  gentleman  who .  is  preaching  in  the  Temperance 
Hall,  to  large  audiences,  on  Lord's  day  evenings. 
He  is  doing  solidly  good  work  in  weakening  the 
hold  of  sectarianism  upon  the  people.  Apart  from 
his  advocacy  of  the  doctrine  of  the  destruction  of  the 
wicked,  he  is  doing  precisely  the  work  our  people  are 
seeking  to  do.  It  would  not,  at  present,  be  wise  for 
them  to  unite;  hut  union  may  come,  and  will,  if  all 
parties  are  governed  by  the  right  spirit. 

On  Friday,  the  22nd,  Bro.  and  sister  McDermott, 
having  laarned  of  Bro.  Exley's  condition,  insisted  we 
should  move  from  the  hotel  to  their  house,  so  that  he 
could  have  as  good  nursing  as  if  he  were  in  his  own 
home.  And  certainly,  if  any  proof  were  needed  of 
the  precious  influence  of  the  gospel  of  Jesus,  Bro. 
and  Sister  McDermott  and  family  are  a  splendid  testi- 
mony. A  more  affectionate,  well-ordered  family,  it 
would  bo  hard  to  imagine.  He  himself  was  born  in 
New  Zealand,  and  with  his  father  and  mother  has,  in 
past  years,  been  in  strange  perils  from  the  Maories. 
She  is  from  Ireland,  and  formerly  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic, we  understand,  but  is  now  a  member  of  the  Chris- 
tian Church,  as  is  her  mother,  formerly  a  Catholic 
also.  Their  names  and  their  home  will  always  have  a 
place  of  affectionate  remembrance  in  our  hearts. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

WELLINGTON,  New  Zealand,  Nov.  30,  1880. 


LETTER  IV. 

NEW   ZEALAND.  —  FACTS    AND    INCIDENTS. 

As  BEFORE  intimated,  on  our  arrival  at  Auckland, 
we  found  the  whole  city  in  considerable  agitation,  it 
being  stirred  up  by  the  preaching  of  Mr.  George  A. 
Brown.  Pie  is~rt  personal  friend  of  Bro.  J.  B. 
Rotherham,  and  knows  Bro.  Delaunay,  of  Paris, 
quite  well.  The  people  in  the  colonies,  for  the  most 
part,  seem  remarkably  free  from  prejudice,  so  that,  to 
an  earnest  and  fearless  proclaimer  of  the  truth,  there 
is  much  cause  for  encouragement.  Bro.  Coop  soon 
found  himself  quite  busy  in  the  place  —  and  several 
pleasant  little  things  happened  to  him  as  he  went  up 
and  down  the  city.  He  was  frequently  and  suddenly 
accosted  by  some  one  who  had  either  known  him,  or 
worked  for  him,  or  traded  with  him,  in  England. 

For  five  weeks  we  stayed  at  Auckland,  minus  some 
ten  days  spent  at  Papakura,  at  Bro.  Wallis's  hospitable 
home.  During  this  time  Bro.  Coop,  very  much  with 
the  view  of  drawing  Mr.  Brown  and  our  brethren  to- 
gether, frequently  broke  bread  with  him  and  those 
affiliated  with  him.  Mr.  Brown's  preaching  is  doing 
good  work  on  the  side  of  a  purer  faith,  and  our  breth- 
ren repeatedly  allowed  him  to  use  their  baptistery. 

On  the  design   of  baptism   he   is  thoroughly  at   one 

(41) 


42  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

with  us.  Bro.  Coop  repeatedly  assisted  him  on  these 
occasions,  baptizing  for  him,  nine  at  one  time,  six  at 
another,  and  some  four  or  five  at  another,  whilst  Mr. 
Brown  baptized  also  a  still  larger  number. 

To  none  of  these  meetings  was  Bro.  Exley  able  to 
go,  being  at  times  unable  to  stand  more  than  a  few 
minutes.  Under  the  careful  nursing  of  Sister  Mc- 
Dermott,  however,  strength  gradually  returned,  and 
whilst  able  to  barely  walk  about,  a  few  minutes  at  a 
time,  he  resolved  to  preach  for  the  brethren  a  few 
times.  This  he  did,  twice  on  the  Lord's  day,  Oct.  31, 
speaking  in  the  morning  on  "  The  Cross,  the  Throne 
and  the  Crown;"  and  in  the  evening,  on  "The  Great 
Question  of  this  Age."  It  was  pleasing  to  meet  faces 
on  this  Lord's  day,  not  seen  before  for  seventeen 
years  —  Bro.  and  Sister  Roebuck,  from  Camden 
Town,  London,  with  many  friends  from  there,  and 
some  from  Manchester,  who  had  heard  Bro.  Exley 
preach  there  many  years  ago. 

After  this,  we  went  to  Bro.  Wallis's,  at  Papakura, 
who  kindly  met  us  at  the  depot  with  his  conveyance. 
Bro.  Exley  had  seen  him  but  once  or  twice  before, 
when  it  happened  he  preached  in  Huddersfield, 
nearly  thirty  years  ago.  He  had  brought  his  little 
daughter  with  him,  whom  we  knew  at  once,  because 
of  her  close  resemblance  to  Sister  Black,  of  London, 
a  sister  of  Bro.  Wallis.  Here  Bro.  Exley  preached 
five  times,  on  various  themes;  some  by  request,  such 
as  "The  Witness  of  the  Spirit,"  "Eternal  Life," 
"  Jesus,  the  Son  of  God,"  and  suchlike  themes.  The 


NEW  ZEALAND.  43 

meetings  were  large,  for  a  country  place,  and  held  in 
the  National  School-room.  There  is  a  little  church 
here  of  somewhat  over  twenty  members,  and  of  a 
superior  class  to  some,  gathered  mainly  by  the  labors 
of  Bro.  Wallis.  The  family  of  Bro.  and  Sister  Wal- 
lis,  consisting  of  one  son  and  three  daughters,  all 
members  of  the  church,  except  the  little  girl,  is  in 
every  way  a  model  family.  The  Christian  kind- 
ness, gentleness,  wisdom  and  affection,  which  obtain 
amongst  them  all,  we  have  rarely  seen  equalled,  and 
never  surpassed.  Their  unceasing  efforts  to  have 
Bro.  Exley  built  up  into  strength  again,  and  to  make 
us  thoroughly  at  home,  can  not  be  overvalued.  In- 
deed, had  it  not  been  for  the  care  of  Bro.  and  Sister 
Wallis,  and  family,  and  of  Bro.  and  Sister  McDer- 
mott,  and  family,  it  is  very  doubtful  if  Bro.  Exley 
had  been  able  for  a  long  time  to  have  done  any  work 
again,  or  to  have  continued  the  journey.  Surely  it  is 
of  such  gentle  and  tender  kindness  as  theirs,  that  the 
Master  has  said,  "  Inasmuch  as  ye  did  it  to  one  of  the 
least  of  these,  my  brethren,  ye  did  it  unto  me;"  and 
it  may  be  that  it  will  be  of  just  such  deeds  of  pure 
Christian  love  as  these,  that  the  "  Crown  of  Life" 
will  be  woven  by  the  Master's  hand  in  that  day, 
when  it  will  show  forth  the  nobleness  of  the  life  of 
the  wearer  to  whom  it  is  given. 

Whilst  Bro.  Exley  was  thus  by  day  being  nursed  so 
kindly,  and  trying  to  preach  sometimes  at  night,  Bro. 
Coop  was  busy  exploring  the  country  with  Bro.  Wal- 
lis, and  in  various  ways  showing  himself  either  a  real 


44  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

"sport/'  or  a  man  equal  to  emergencies  in  awkward 
situations.  One  day  he  and  Bro.  Wallis  started  on 
horseback  to  the  distant  hills,  and  had  the  lucky  mis- 
fortune to  have  his  horse,  after  he  had  dismounted 
and  tied  it  up,  break  loose  and  take  to  the  bush,  and 
he  had  to  turn  bushranger,  or  bushwhacker,  in  reality, 
as  also  Bro.  Wallis,  to  go  in  search  of  their  scared 
and  runaway  nags.  It  was  something  of  a  picture  to 
see  a  man  sixty -four  years  of  age,  with  face  excite- 
ment-flushed and  eye  flashing  with  merriment,  aud 
himself  apparently  as  vigorous  as  a  young  fellow  of 
thirty,  enjoying  the  sport.  At  another  time,  going 
off  with  his  nephew,  Mr.  James  Coop,  a  drive  into 
the  country  some  twenty  miles,  and  coming  to  a 
stream,  they  there  decided  to  "git  out"  and  give  the 
animal  a  chance  to  drink.  Having  done  this,  the 
horse  took  a  sudden  notion  to  plunge  forward,  but 
not  far  enough  to  reach  the  other  side,  and  —  to  their 
great  amazement  and  discomfort  —  it  sank  in  water 
and  mud  almost  up  to  the  neck.  They  had  the  nice 
pastime  of  standing  up  to  the  arm-pits  in  the  new 
situation,  trying  to  get  it  out;  but  having  first  to  un- 
harness the  horse,  which,  being  done,  with  a  plunge 
and  a  bound,  flinging  his  companions  right  and  left 
still  deeper,  the  horse  got  out,  after  which  —  what  a 
picture!  If  they  had  been  "gold-washing"  in  a  clay 
pit,  they  might,  perhaps,  have  looked  as  nice.  Then 
the  buggy  was  so  well  embedded  in  the  new  situation, 
that  a  span  of  horses  had  to  be  hitched  on  to  get  it 
out.  Altogether,  they  had  a  fine  time  of  it.  An- 


NEW  ZEALAND.  45 

other  clay,  Bro.  Coop,  with  others,  went  out  in  a  boat 
into  the  bay,  a-fishing  —  and  did  what  might  have  ex- 
cited the  envy  of  even  good  old  Isaac  Walton,  the 
prince  of  fisher-sportsmen.  He  not  only  out-did  the 
rest  of  the  company  in  the  success  of  his  "  catch/' 
but,  mirabile  dictUj  he  actually  caught  a  shark,  which, 
with  the  aid  of  the  rest,  he  succeeded  in  getting  into 
the  boat.  This,  however,  they  destroyed  and  flung 
overboard  again,  without  even  securing  its  formidable 
but  beautiful  teeth,  as  reminders  of  the  sport.  At 
night  he  returned  home,  as  wet  as  a  sailor  (do  sailors 
get  wet  in  fishing?)  and  loaded  with  the  day's  spoils. 
We  had  how  been  in  and  about  Auckland  for  about 
four  weeks,  Bro.  Exley  getting  stronger  all  the  time, 
and  by  way  of  exercise,  not  being  able  to  walk  much 
or  ride  much,  determined  to  try  and  make  amends  by 
preaching  as  often  as  he  could.  The  doctor  shook  his 
head,  but  "  better  rub  than  rust "  was  the  motto,  and 
so,  altogether,  he  preached  at  Papakura,  five  dis- 
courses, and  at  Auckland,  eleven,  on  as  many  themes. 
One  Lord's  day  evening,  in  the  hope  of  cultivating  a 
fraternal  ^intercourse  between  our  brethren  and  Mr. 
Brown  and  those  with  him,  Bro.  Exley  preached  in 
Temperance  Hall,  instead  of  Mr.  Brown,  on  "  The 
Nobleness  of  Serving  Christ. *'  There  was  a  very 
large  attendance.  The  sects  are  hard  on  Mr.  Brown, 
a  sure  sign  that,  whether  he  is  right  or  wrong,  they 
are  being  greatly  disturbed  by  his  preaching.  On  the 
last  Lord's  day  in  Auckland,  Bro.  Exley  spoko  in  the 
morning  on  "  Precious  Promises/7  and  in  the  even- 


46  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

ing  on  the  "  Ascension  of  Christ."  At  the  close, 
some  ten  young  persons,  from  13  to  17  years  of  age, 
came  forward  and  confessed  the  Saviour's  name.  On 
Monday  evening,  he  preached  again  on  "The  Three 
Gracious  Commands,"  and  immediately  after  bap- 
tized twelve  persons.  After  dismissing  the  meeting, 
but  before  the  congregation  had  begun  to  disperse,  a 
lady  came  forward,  and  in  earnest  tones  said  she  was 
thoroughly  convinced  of  the  truth,  and  desired  to 
yield  obedience  to  the  Saviour.  Her  confession  was 
most  earnest,  as  well  as  clear,  and  a  second  time  Bro. 
Exley  "  went  down  into  the  water."  No  sooner  had 
he  baptized  this  lady,  and  "  come  up  out  of  the 
water,"  than  a  third  time  he  had  again  to  go  into  the 
bath,  to  baptize  two  others,  thus  baptizing  fifteen  per- 
sons that  evening.  Could  we  have  remained  a  week 
or  two  longer,  no  doubt  a  greater  work  could  have 
been  done,  as  great  seriousness  appeared  to  rest  upon 
the  people,  evidently  a  work  of  grace.  But  we  could 
not  stay.  Our  visit  to  the  beautiful  city  of  Auck- 
land will  not  be  soon  forgotten  by  us,  or  by  the 
brethren.  The  memories  of  some  of  them  will  hence- 
forth be  a  part  of  our  lives,  and  a  very  precious  part 
indeed.  The  church  at  Auckland  numbers  about  140 
members  now,  has  four  elders  and  three  deacons, 
with  a  Sunday-school  of  about  sixty  scholars.  Prior 
to  our  visit,  the  church  had,  in  six  years,  had  some 
ninety-two  additions,  but  none  under  sixteen  years  of 
age.  Bro.  Coop,  whenever  he  had  opportunity,  plead- 
ed for  the  little  ones,  and,  we  hope,  with  good  effect. 


NEW  ZEALAND.  47 

On  Tuesday,  the  23d  of  November,  we  bade  fare- 
well to  Auckland,  accompanied  on  the  cars  as  far  as 
Onehunga,  by  Bro.  and  Sister  McDermott,  and  Sisters 
Curr  and  Stokes.  Our  vessel  was  soon  under  way, 
and  faces  known  to  us  but  for  a  few  weeks,  faded 
from  our  sight,  but  not  to  fade  from  memory  in  this 
life  any  more.  The  church  at  Auckland  has  no  evan- 
gelist, and  under  such  circumstances  has  done  exceed- 
ingly well.  The  Lord  make  the  church  there  a 
mighty  power  for  good!  Our  vessel,  the  Hawea,  was 
about  800  tons,  and  not  being  very  large,  although  a 
first-rate  vessel,  she  answered  well  to  the  motion  of 
the  waves,  and  severe  sea-sickness  was  the  lot  of 
many  of  our  passengers. 

There  is  one  pleasing  feature  among  the  colonists, 
which  is  too  much  lacking  in  the  United  States:  they 
preserve,  to  a  very  large  extent,  the  Maorie  names. 
Hardly  a  place  in  the  country,  except  the  large  sea- 
coast  cities,  but  what  bears  a  Maorie  name.  So  with 
the  ships.  One  of  the  two  we  have  sailed  in  since 
reaching  Auckland,  is  named  the  "  Hawea,"  and  the 
other  the  " RotomahanaJ"  On  our  arrival  at  Auck- 
land, Bro.  Coop  busied  himself,  in  learning  the  reli- 
gious status  of  different  societies ;  finding  himself  in 
company  with  an  Episcopalian  clergyman,  Avho  was 
attending  Convocation  in  the  city,  ascertained  that 
the  Episcopalians  have  no  less  than  fifteen  ordained 
Maories  as  clergymen.  Yet  we  hear  that  the  religion 
of  the  cross  does  not  make  much  headway  amongst 
the  natives.  Various  reasons  are  assigned  for  this. 


48  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Some  say,  it  is  because  the  missionaries,  for  the  most 
part,  have  managed  to  get  hold  of  the  best  portion  of 
their  lands;  others,  that  they  have  become  possessed 
of  a  large  portion  of  wealth,  from  the  sale  of  their 
lands,  and  as  a  consequence  have  become  enervated 
by  it,  averse  to  Christianity,  and  by  their  deteriorated 
habits  are  rapidly  dwindling  away.  It  is  a  great 
misfortune  to  them,  and  pity.  They  are  a  splendid 
race  of  people.  All  that  we  saw  were,  for  the  most 
part,  finely  proportioned,  well  dressed,  and  apparently 
very  intelligent,  both  men  and  women.  The  married 
women  are  tattooed  on  the  mouth,  both  upper  and 
lower  lips.  Tattooing  is,  however,  said  to  be  aban- 
doned now.  Bro.  Coop  also  made  the  acquaintance 
of  the  Baptist  ministers,  Webb  and  Jones.  They 
have  one  good,  strong  church  in  Auckland,  and  two 
smaller,  or  branch-churches.  They  also  have  three 
Sunday-schools,  and  they  are  so  careful  in  the  train- 
ing of  their  Sunday-school  scholars,  that  they  have 
baptized  a  large  number  of  them,  "and  have  now  a 
large  class  of  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  years  of  age, 
under  instruction,  with  a  view  to  baptism.  They 
have  some  baptized  as  young  as  nine  years  of  age. 
All  this  is  grand,  and  we  write  it  here  for  brethren 
to  see  it,  and  learn  a  lesson  or  two  from  it,  if  pos- 
sible. We  learned  that  the  chief  Maorie,  who  had 
embraced  Christianity  from  some  influence  or  another, 
had  been  led  to  imagine  himself  a  divinely  commis- 
sioned leader,  and  to  him  large  numbers  of  Maories 
look  for  instruction.  He  is  exceedingly  well  versed 


NEW  ZEALAND.  49 

in  the  scriptures,  but  has,  no  doubt,  embraced  some 
kind  of  spiritualism.  All  this  makes  it  difficult  to 
spread  a  purer  faith  amongst  them. 

Before  leaving  Auckland,  we  had  a  long  drive  up  a 
winding  pathway,  to  the  top  of  Mount  Eden,  an  ex- 
tinct volcano.  Bro.  and  Sister  McDermott,  and  Bro. 
Coop,  with  his  nephew,  all  made  the  ascent.  It  com- 
mands a  very  wide  area  of  land  and  sea,  in  its  range 
of  vision.  The  cup,  or  hollow  of  the  crater,  is  still 
in  perfect  form.  It  is,  perhaps,  one-sixth  of  a  mile 
across.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  stones  thrown,  by 
strong  men,  and  with  slings  to  help  give  force, 
seem  to  fall  at  but  a  short  distance  from  the  men 
flinging  them.  One  of  our  company  tried  to  throw 
a  stone,  but  without  a  sling,  and  it  seemed  to  be 
drawn  down  into  the  crater,  at  a  short  distance. 

The  entire  region  is  of  volcanic  origin,  and  the 
lava  is  still  visible  in  places,  over  the  whole  distance 
to  the  sea. 

Leaving  Auckland,  we  found  the  whole  coast-line 
of  the  country,  with  hardly  the  semblance  of  a  break, 
one  continuous  line  of  bold,  lofty  and  very  precipi- 
tous mountains.  This  is  the  unbroken  characteristic 
of  both  North  and  South  Islands,  and  all  round  about 
them. 

We  passed  New  Plymouth,  but  did  not  go  on 
shore,  as  that  could  only  be  done  by  going  in  a  small 
boat,  and  through  a  very  high  and  heavy  surf.  At 
Nelson,  however,  we  went  on  shore  for  a  few  hours, 

and  had  a  ride  around. 
4 


50  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  cities  of  New  Zealand  are  exceedingly  beauti- 
ful —  better  laid  out,  perhaps,  than  any  city  west  of 
the  Mississippi.  Roads,  side-paths,  are  built  after 
the  solid  fashion  in  England.  Schools  are  many,  and 
built  in  the  finest  taste;  and  everything  indicates  a 
people  fully  abreast  with  the  best  countries  in  the 
world,  whilst  the  mildness  of  the  climate  —  ice  being 
in  most  places  utterly  unknown,  and  the  summers 
never  excessively  hot — and  the  wonderful  cleanliness 
of  everything  and  everybody,  make  these  islands 
one  of  the  most  desirable  homes  on  earth.  We  tried 
to  find  brethren  at  Nelson,  but  did  not  succeed;  but, 
instead,  we  found  that  the  Plymouth  Brethren  had  a 
footing  there,  divided  into  "  fast"  and  "loose"  breth- 
ren. Amongst  a  number  of  tracts,  kindly  given  us, 
quite  characteristic  of  the  teaching  of  these  good 
people,  was  one  with  the  curious  title,  "The  First- 
ling of  an  Ass."  Surely,  neither  Moses  nor  Job 
ever  dreamed  they  would  be  thus  honored,  by  having 
their  language  used  as  proof  that  all  men  are  asses! 
Is  there  any  truth  in  "evolution"?  The  writer  im- 
pressively says,  "  It  is  far  easier  to  acknowledge  that 
we  have  acted  like  asses,  than  to  acknowledge  that  we 
are  such."  With  this  Nelsonian  piece  of  Plymouth 
Brethrenism,  we  left  the  city,  speculating  whether  we 
were  not  also  as  Ephraim,  "cakes  unturned"  —  in 
fact,  baked  a  little  too  much  on  one  side. 

On  Tuesday,  the  27th,  we  landed  at  the  port  and 
city  of  Wellington,  where  we  were  met  by  Bro.  T.  H. 
Bates,  evangelist,  and  several  others,  who  had  been 


NEW  ZEALAND.  51 

warned  by  telegram  from  Auckland,  of  our  intended 
visit.  Wellington  is  built  on  hills,  and  is  a  splendid 
city.  The  church  here  numbers  about  ninety  mem- 
bers; of  these  only  some  nineteen  were  there  when 
Bro.  Maston  settled  among  them,  last  February.  He 
has  done  well.  Bro.  Bates  was  there  on  an  exchange 
with  Bro.  Maston,  who  was  at  Christ  Church  in  his 
place. 

We  were  most  kindly  entertained  by  good  Bro.  and 
Sister  Gray.  He  is  one  of  the  elders  of  the  church. 
Bro.  Coop  addressed  the  church  on  Lord's  day  morn- 
ing, on  the  "Church's  Duty  to  the  Young."  The 
material  of  this  church  seems  to  be  good.  At  night, 
Bro.  Exley,  in  the  same  hall,  addressed  a  crowded  au- 
dience, on  "  God's  Method  of  Salvation."  The  at- 
tention was  intensely  earnest,  from  the  first  sentence 
to  the  last.  Two  persons  —  a  lady  and  a  gentleman 
—  came  forward,  and  desired  to  consecrate  all  to  Him 
who  had  died  for  them.  Bro.  Bates  had  baptized  six 
the  evening  before  our  arrival.  They  have  prayer- 
meeting  and  Bible-class,  but  no  Sunday-school,  not 
having  yet  the  proper  facilities.  The  church  is  in 
good  order,  with  additions  constantly,  under  the 
earnest  labors  of  Bro.  Maston,  who  has  not  only  a 
fine  field  here,  but  a  place  in  the  hearts  of  the 
brethren. 

Leaving  Wellington  on  Monday,  the  29th,  we 
sailed  in  the  Rotomahana,  for  Christ  Church.  Never 
have  we  seen  such  great,  swelling  waves,  and  billows 
of  such  immense  sweep,  but  in  mid- Atlantic,  as  met 


52  A  TRIP  ABOUND  THE  WORLD. 

us  on  emerging  from  the  harbor  and  bay  of  Welling- 
ton. Our  vessel,  though  large  and  of  good  beam, 
literally  groaned  and  plunged  as  we  bravely  breasted 
them.  Bro.  Bates  and  wife  accompanied  us,  as  they 
were  leaving  for  Christ  Church,  that  Bro.  Mast  on 
might  return  to  his  own  field  of  labor.  We  arrived 
at  the  port  and  city  of  Lyttleton  next  morning,  and 
were  also  met  here  by  a  number  of  brethren  already 
assembled  to  meet  us  and  give  Bro.  and  Sister  Bates 
welcome  home.  The  city  of  Christ  Church  is  some 
six  miles  from  Lyttleton,  to  reach  which  we  have  to 
go  by  rail,  passing  under  the  immense  hills  by  tun- 
nel. "The  rocks  for  the  conies,"  but  at  Lyttleton 
they  are  taken  possession  of  by  men.  The  church  at 
Christ  Church  numbers  about  120,  about  two-thirds 
of  whom  have  been  brought  into  the  fold  by  the 
labors  of  Bro.  Bates.  He  is  about  to  leave  here  for 
Melbourne;  the  church  will  then  be  without  help, 
and  the  consequences  can  not  be  good.  They  have  a 
Sunday-school  of  about  thirty  scholars. 

On  Wednesday  evening,  the  church  had  a  tea- 
meeting  in  the~Odd  Fellows'  Hall,  and,  although  it 
was  a  wet  evening,  about  280  persons  sat  down  to 
tea.  Afterward  came  singing,  by  a  number  of  the 
trained  members  of  the  church,  and  speeches  by 
Brethren  Bates,  Maston,  Coop  and  Exley  were  made, 
the  latter  of  whom  closed  by  singing  them  a  song, 

'•'  The  good  we  may  do," 
to  the  great  delight  of  nil,     A  large  number  bade  us 


.  NEW  ZEALAND.  53 

good-bye,  and  many,  as  Bro.  Bates  is  likely  to  leave, 
expressed  a  strong  desire  for  Bro.  Exley  to  come  and 
labor  amongst  them,  as  also  was  the  case  at  Auckland 
and  Papaknra. 

On  Thursday,  the  2nd  of  December,  we  bade  adieu 
also  to  Christ  Church.  The  city  stands  on  an  im- 
mense level  plain,  perhaps  the  finest  farming  region 
in  New  Zealand,  and  the  whole  region  was  given 
many  years  ago,  by  the  government,  to  the  Episco- 
palians, as  was  the  region  to  the  Presbyterians  on 
which  Duuedin  stands.  Then  the  plain  was  a  swamp, 
but  they  have  drained  it,  and  it  is  now  a  garden,  if 
there  is  one  anywhere.  The  Episcopalians  are  now 
erecting  a  very  large  cathedral,  the  tower  of  which  is 
already  more  than  ninety  feet  high.  Here  Bro.  Ex- 
ley  met  with  Bro.  Peter  Duncan,  a  brother  who  came 
to  the  acknowledgment  of  the  truth  some  seventeen 
years  ago,  under  his  preaching  at  Long  Grove,  Iowa. 
This  was  one  of  the  happiest  little  episodes  of  our 
journey.  He  is  a  substantial  farmer  at  Okuku  (pro- 
nounced Okookoo),  some  thirty  miles  from  Christ 
Church.  He  assured  us  that,  on  good  land  in  this 
region,  it  was  a  common  thing  to  raise  sixty  bushels 
of  wheat  per  acre,  and  from  ten  to  twenty  tons  of 
potatoes  —  the  wheat  s.elling  at  four  English  shillings 
(ninety-six  cents)  per  bushel.  He  told  us  that  he 
realized  thirteen  pounds,  or  more  than  sixty  dollars, 
per  acre,  for  all  his  potatoes,  the  last  season.  On 
poorer  lands  the  average  of  wheat  is  about  twenty- 
two  to  twenty-five  bushels  per  acre,  and  of  potatoes, 


54  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD.' 

about  eight  tons.  With  facts  like  these,  New  Zealand 
will  not  be  easily  undersold  in  England  by  our  West- 
ern producers. 

The  mail  leaves  this  evening,  and  we  close  this, 
only  saying  that,  leaving  Christ  Church  yesterday,  by 
our  former  boat,  the  "  Hawea,"  after  a  very  stormy 
passage  of  some  twenty  hours,  we  are  now  safely 
domiciled  with  Sister  Stewart,  at  Dunedin.  We  are 
both  moderately  well,  and  as  Bro.  M.  Green,  the 
preacher  here,  is  on  a  visit  to  the  Melbourne  Exhibi- 
tion, we  are  both  given  to  understand  we  must  do  his 
work  on  next  Lord's  day.  T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 


LETTER  V. 

NEW   ZEALAND. — CITIES    AND    CHURCHES. 

As  YOU  see  from  date  and  place,  we  are  actually  in 
far-off  Australia.  Hitherto  the  Lord  has  brought  us 
in  safety.  After  we  left  Christ  Church,  in  New  Zea- 
land, Bro.  Coop  spent  about  one  full  week  in  Dun- 
edin, and  Bro.  Exley  about  two.  We  were  kindly 
and  most  hospitably  entertained  during  our  whole 
stay,  at  the  house  of  Captain  Stewart,  one  of  the 
brethren,  but  who  is  now  on  a  visit  to  his  native  Scot- 
land, and  also  to  England.  He  has  the  reputation  of 
being  a  genuine  disciple.  His  good  lady,  Sister  Stew- 
art, and  family  of  four  daughters  and  three  sons,  did 
all  they  could  to  make  us  at  home  and  happy,  and 
they  succeeded  well.  Long  will  the  memory  of  their 
loving  kindness  remain  with  us,  as  one  of  the  most 
precious  of  all  our  acquisitions  in  New  Zealand. 
There  are  two  churches  in  Dunedin;  one  of  about  450 
members,  the  preacher  for  which  churcli  is  Bro.  Mat- 
thew W.  Green,  who  appears  to  have  done  a  good 
work  there,  and  whose  noble  efforts  against  the  deadly 
and  destructive  influence  of  "  Spiritism "  have  se- 
cured him  the  esteem  and  good  will  of  not  a  few  in 
Dunedin.  The  second  church  numbers  about  sixty 

members,  and  very  choice  spirits,  too,  we  gathered, 

(55) 


56  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

many  of  them  are.  They  have  at  present  no  preach- 
er, but,  after  hearing  Bro.  Exley  preach  some  six  or 
seven  times  in  the  "  Tabernacle/7  in  place  of  Bro. 
Green,  who  was  on  a  trip  to  Australia,  mainly  for  his 
health,  the  church  meeting  in  the  "Temperance 
Hall"  sent  him  an  official  invitation  and  offer,  ex- 
ceedingly liberal  and  gratifying  in  themselves,  and 
which,  had  circumstances  favored,  Bro.  Exley  would 
have  accepted.  Ha,  however,  left  the  matter  open, 
so  that,  provided  he  could  see  his  way  clear  to  accept 
the  invitation,  after  receiving  expected  letters  from 
home,  he  might  do  so,  if  it  could  have  the  free, 
full  and  glad  sanction  of  the  church  in  the  "  Taber- 
nacle." 

The  church  at  Christ  Church,  also  sent  him,  the 
same  day  that  the  above  offer  was  made,  a  telegram, 
inviting  him  to  labor  there,  accompanied  by  a  very 
substantial  offer  of  support,  indeed.  This,  also,  for 
reasons  somewhat  similar,  and  somewhat  dissimilar, 
to  the  above,  Bro.  Exley  could  not  at  present  see  his 
way  to  accept. 

We  have  seen  now  goodly  numbers  of  brethren  at 
^Auckland,  Papakura,  Wellington,  Christ  Church  and 
Dunedin,  and,  taking  all  in  all,  the  cause  of  a  pure 
Christianity,  apart  from  human  imperfection,  has 
made  wonderful  strides  in  these  far-off  colonies  of  the 
"  home  country,"  as  the  colonists  seem  affectionately, 
as  well  as  proudly,  to  speak  of  the  land  of  their  birth. 
The  brethren  everywhere  embrace  a  fair  proportion 
of  the  intelligence  and  prosperity  of  their  several. 


NEW  ZEALAND.  57 

communities,  and  in  real  piety  will  compare,  all  of 
them,  with  the  very  best  specimens  in  the  States.  In 
some  most  vitally  important  matters  connected  with 
the  prosperity  of  the  churches,  and  the  happiness  and 
usefulness  of  preachers,  the  best  churches  in  the 
United  States  are  at  a  long  and  a  very  halting  pace 
behind  them.  There  is,  we  believe,  no  such  thing  as 
a  "  subscript  ion "  list,  as  to  how  much  this  one  owes 
or  that  one  will  give.  The  brethren,  Jbeing  satisfied 
with  their  choice  of  a  preacher,  offer  him  a  really 
substantial^  support,  and  pay  it  —  pay  it  all,  and  pay 
it  at  the  stipulated  time.  Everything  is  done  in 
the  solid  English  fashion,  and  we  believe  that  the 
churches,  as  a  rule,  will  partake  of  this  characteristic. 
Now,  would  it  not,  in  this  age  of  Pan-Methodist, 
Pan-Presbyterian,  and  other  "  Pan  ''  gatherings,  be 
in  order  if  the  flag  of  a  Pan- Christian  Council  should 
be  unfurled,  and  every  mail-clad  warrior  of  the  good 
cause,  who  may  just  now  be  tilting  with  lance,  broken 
or  otherwise,  with  his  brethren,  concerning  the  organ, 
open  communion,  or  other  real  or  supposed  depart- 
ures from  the  faith  once  delivered  to  the  saints  —  if 
each  one  would  put  his  lance  at  rest  on  all  these  mat- 
ters just  now,  and  let  there  be  a  gathering  of  as  many 
as  possible  of  the  best  and  ablest,  and  most  Christ- 
loving,  with  the  selection,  and  prayers,  and  benedic- 
tions, and  support  of  all  the  churches  in  the  round 
world,  to  consider  —  What  is  our  mission?  What  are 
our  hindrances?  What  are  the  best  means  we  can 
employ  to  remove  them?  What  are  the  best  meas- 


58  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

tires  we  can  adopt  to  further  the  cause  of  an  un- 
adulterated gospel,  and  to  win  the  churches  to  a 
deeper  piety,  a  more  genuine  union,  and  the  various 
religious  bodies  around  us,  to  a  calm  and  dispassion- 
ate and  earnest  consideration  of  our  attempted  mis- 
sion, and  thus  largely  help  to  convert  the  world  to 
Christ?  Great  Britain,  the  United  States,  the  Can- 
adas,  and  these  far-off  colonies,  as  well  as  our  thinly 
scattered  missions,  could  each  furnish  their  quota  of 
g^ood  brethren,  and  all  could  be  sustained  for  the  time 
being,  from  a  common  fund.  « 

Once  two  ships-of-war  met  together  in  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night,  and  in  accordance  with  their  real 
nature,  poured  shot  and  shell  into  each  other,  until 
the  decks  of  both  vessels  were  strewn  with  the  fright- 
ful wrecks  of  the  dead  and  dying.  When  the  morn- 
ing light  fell  upon  the  scene,  the  Union  Jack  was 
seen  floating  over  each  of  the  vessels !  They  had 
mistaken  each  other  for  enemies  in  the  dark ! 

When  Nelson  was  once  about  to  lead  his  line  of 
battle-ships  into  action,  knowing  that  two  of  his 
greatest  commodores  were  at  almost  deadly  enmity 
with  each  other,  he  sent  for  Lords  Rotherham  and 
Collingwood  to  come  to  his  own  flag-ship,  and  then 
said  to  them,  as  he  pointed  in  the  direction  of  the 
formidable  French  fleet,  at  Trafalgar :  "  Shake  hands, 
and  be  friends.  The  enemy  is  yonder!" 

Is  there  not  a  possibility  —  aye,  probability — that 
brethren,  and  even  churches,  may  be  blundering,  by 
mistaking  each  other  for  enemies  in  the  dark? 


NEW  ZEALAND.  59 

Let  His  banner  be  unfurled, 

Banner  of  the  Peaceful  One; 
Wave  it  grandly  o'er  the  world 

Till  all  strife  shall  be  unknown. 

Can  we  not  differently  try  to  make  them  into 
friends?  Can  we  not  find  the  enemy  outside  of  our 
own  ranks  ?  God  help  us  to  do  so ;  and  then,  with 
united  front  and  united  purpose,  move  on  an  un- 
shaken host,  to  the  help  of  the  Lord  against  the 
mighty,  and  with  the  Almighty  himself  as  our  com- 
mander. 

On  some  eight  or  more  occasions,  Bro.  Exley 
preached  to  the  church  and  congregation  in  the 
Tabernacle  at  Dunedin.  The  last  Lord's  day  even- 
ing he  preached,  although  it  was  an  exceedingly  wet 
night,  the  great  building,  which  will  seat  about  800 
persons,  was  well  filled.  The  local  press  next  day 
spoke  of  it  as  being  crowded.  He  preached  on  "  Be- 
ginning at  Jerusalem,"  and,  perhaps,  hardly  ever 
had  preacher  a  more  profoundly  and  apparently  in- 
tensely interested  audience.  From  first  sentence  to 
last,  every  soul  seemed  to  listen  as  if  fearful  of  losing 
a  word. 

Bro.  Coop,  on  one  Lord's  day  morning,  as  at  Wel- 
lington and  Auckland,  gave  a  very  earnest  and  ten- 
derly affectionate  address,  urging  the  church  to  care 
with  all  its  best  solicitude  for  the  children,  and  to 
cultivate  the  spirit  of  missions,  and  no  small  good 
would  surely  result. 

We  believe  the  general  feeling  in  these  colonies  of 


60  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

New  Zealand  is  that  of  a  thankful  gladness  for  our 
visit. 

Bro.  Coop  left  Dunedin  for  Melbourne,  one  week 
before  Bro.  Exley,  being  anxious  to  receive  any 
letters  waiting  there  for  him  from  home.  He  had  an 
exceedingly  rough  and  unpleasant  voyage.  On  the 
16th  of  December,  Bro.  Exley  also  left,  embarking 
on  the  Te  Anau  (all  the  vessels  bear  Maorie  names, 
Bro.  Coop  sailing  in  the  Arawata),  and  had  also  an 
exceedingly  rough  passage,  with  complete  prostration 
almost  the  whole  time  between  the  two  ports. 

South  Pacific  is  a  vast  misnomer,  as  we  found  to 
our  cost.  To  pay  tax  to  old  Neptune  under  such 
circumstances,  was  quite  equal  to  making  bricks  with- 
out straw;  and  poor  Christian  in  the  dungeon  of 
Giant  Despair,  hardly  suffered  a  more  cruel  usage 
than  we  did.  Still,  now  and  then,  some  little  inci- 
dent crops  up  to  spread  wrinkles  all  over  the  face, 
and  create  quite  a  diversion.  On  the  last  morning 
before  reaching  Melbourne,  Bro.  Exley,  having  risen 
early,  to  take  a  sea-bath,  picked  up  a  sixpence  from 
the  floor  of  his  state-room,  in  which  were  domiciled 
two  young  men  also,  both  of  the  novel-reading  class. 
Having  ascertained  that  he  had  not  himself  lost  it, 
and  to  find  out  which  of  the  two  had,  he  quietly  said, 
"Have  either  of  you  lost  anything?  Have  you  lost 
a  sixpence  with  a  small  hole  in  it?"  One  of  them 
eagerly  responded,  "Yes,  I  have."  "  Well,"  said  Bro. 
Exley,  "I  have  found  a  sixpence  this  morning  on  tho 
carpet,  and  it  had  not  a  small  hole  in  it,  at  all."  The 


NEW  ZEALAND.  61 

blank  look  which  for  a  moment  followed,  and  then 
the  bursting  laughter,  did  a  good  deal  towards  recti- 
fying the  troubles  of  our  poor  and  long-suifering  and 
rudely-tortured  stomachs.  Apo-morphia  had,  on  this 
six  days'  trip,  fair  play  —  and  its  influence  was  nil. 

The  cities  of  New  Zealand  really  astonished  us ; 
they  are,  indeed,  marvelous  affairs.  We  had  the 
notion  that  everything  "  go-ahead  "  was  about  an  ex- 
clusively American  commodity.  What  a  mistake! 
Looking  at  the  far-off  state  of  these  islands,  and  at 
the  naturally  formidable  difficulties  in  the  exceedingly 
hilly  —  even  mountainous  —  condition  of  the  sites 
where  each  city  has  been  built,  it  is  doubtful  to  us  if 
anything  more  genuinely  enterprising  was  ever  done 
in  any  State  of  the  Union.  Lofty  hills  have  been 
literally  brought  down,  and  valleys  exalted,  and 
streets  and  roads  laid  out,  and  so  wide  and  so  well 
macadamized,  and  side-paths  so  broad,  clean  and 
substantial,  and  the  streets  so  solid  and  level-  and 
smooth,  that  the  very  best  portions  of  the  very  best 
American  cities  can  not  carry  off  the  palm.  The 
buildings  are  wonderful  in  their  taste  and  dimen- 
sions; the  public  libraries  and  reading-rooms,  the 
public  museums  and  educational  institutions,  are  not 
surpassed  by  anything,  if  even  equalled,  in  America. 
The  colonists  are  proud  of  their  beautiful  cities  and 
public  institutions  of  all  kinds,  and  they  have  abun- 
dant reason.  Everything  is  solid.  No  such  sign  can 
be  found  as,  "  Five  dollars  fine  to  drive  over  this 
bridge  faster  than  a  walk!"  There  is  an  absence  of 


62  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

that  "  rush  "  which  characterizes  our  American  life, 
and  in  its  place  there  is  visible^  quieter  expenditure 
of  the  energies  of  life,  and  a  wiser  appropriation  of 
what  belongs  to  the  best  of  earth's  joys  —  the  joys 
and  comforts  of  "  home,  sweet  home."  All  business 
places  of  importance  close  early  in  the  evening,  and 
the  average  hours  of  all  classes  of  workmen  are  eight 
hours  per  day.  Loafers  are  neither  found  on  street 
corners  nor  lounging  in  stores,  even  in  country  places, 
as  with  American  little  country  towns ;  nor  are  busi- 
ness men  ever  seen  lolling  outside  their  stores,  balan- 
cing themselves  on  half  chairs.  Business  at  present 
is  quite  depressed,  but  improving.  Gold  is  being 
found  in  very  remunerative  quantities.  Bro.  T.  His- 
lop,  goldsmith,  Dunedin,  showed  us  a  large  mass,  ob- 
tained by  crushing  the  rocks  in  which  it  was  found, 
weighing,  if  we  remember  aright,  more  than  344 
ounces.  Farmers  work  only  eight  hours  a  day,  like 
the  rest  of  the  community,  and  they  can  afford  to  do 
so  better  than  the  farmers  of  the  West  can  afford  to 
be  content  with  ten  hours.  Of  many  kinds  of  pro- 
duce they  easily  raise  two  crops  in  the  year. 

Bro.  P.  Duncan  assured  us  that  on  good-  soil  it  is 
common  to  raise  as  much  as  sixty  bushels  of  wheat  to 
the  acre,  and  of  oats  in  proportion.  On  inferior  lands, 
from  twenty-two  to  twenty-six  bushels  of  wheat,  is  a 
fair  average.  And  though  the  market  —  England  — 
is  so  much  further  off  than  for  the  Western  farmer, 
really,  it  is  practically  very  much  nearer,  from  the 
fact  that  freights  do  not  swallow  half  the  value  of  the 


NEW  ZEALAND.  63 

crop,  as  in  the  West.  The  farmer  seldom  realizes  less 
than  one  dollar  per  bushel  for  his  wheat,  raises  a 
much  larger  quantity,  at  a  less  cost,  and  is  every  way 
less  burdened  with  heavy  toil  or  severe  alternations  in 
the  weather,  has  but  little  hay  to  cut  for  his  stock, 
and  but  little  more  labor  in  winter  to  take  care  of  it 
than  in  summer.  We  were  kindly  taken  by  Bros. 
Henderson,  Lawrenson,  Hislop  and  Battson,  a  drive 
of  some  twelve  miles,  to  see  the  Cooperative  Woolen 
Mills.  It  was  a  grand  treat.  Its  gentlemanly  man- 
agers conducted  us  all  over,  and  better  cloths  are  not 
made  in  the  world.  The  best  mutton  is  sold  at  the 
meat  markets  at  four  cents  a  pound,  and  beef,  the  best 
cuts,  at  six  cents !  The  finest  bread  is  ticketed  up  at 
ten  cents  for  the  four  pound  loaf!  Tweed  cloths,  not 
to  be  excelled  by  the  best  makers  in  England,  Scot- 
land, or  the  States,  are  sold  at  about  one  and  a  half 
dollars  per  yard. 

Dunedin  is  about  twenty  years  old,  but  its  streets, 
its  stores,  public  buildings,  churches,  educational 
buildings,  are  simply  grand.  We  saw  certainly  one 
little  thing,  but  quite  a  set-off  in  its  way,  in  a  con- 
trary direction.  We  were  out  visiting  various  places 
of  interest,  when  we  stumbled  upon,  perhaps,  the 
smallest  meeting-house  we  ever  saw.  Curiosity  led 
us  to  a  closer  inspection.  It  was  about  twenty  feet 
by  eleven,  and  on  the  notice-board  we  read  and 
re-read  the  important  information,  "Strict  Baptist!" 
So  "strict"  indeed,  that  the  whole  thing  was  re- 
stricted  to  about  the  above  dimensions. 


64  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

We  wandered  into  the  public  Museum,  free  to  the 
public,  and  were  astonished  to  find  many  of  the  finest 
fossil  specimens  of  the  largest  of  the  extinct  races  of 
creatures  of  both  land  and  sea.  Bro.  T.  Hislop  has 
just  erected  in  the  Town  Hall,  itself  both  very  exten- 
sive, and  splendid  in  architecture,  what  is  termed  the 
largest  clock  in  this  hemisphere.  He  kindly  ascended 
with  us  into  the  lofty  clock  tower,  and  showed  us  the 
machinery  of  this  great  time-keeper,  and  let  us  see,  as 
well  as  hear,  its  beautiful  chimes.  It  will  bear  his 
name  to  a  very  late  posterity,  should  accident  not 
befall  the  building. 

It  is  difficult  to  describe  Dunedin.  Its  business 
names  are  mainly  Scotch  and  English.  Its  situa- 
tion is  beautiful  beyond  our  power  to  describe  it. 
Whether  seen  from  the  land  side,  or  from  the  bay,  it 
is  a  picture  of  loveliness.  One  of  its  local  editors, 
so  enamored  with  it,  thus  speaks  of  it,  and  he  is  an 
Irishman  : 

A  fairy,  'round  whose  brilliant  throne 

Great  towering  giants  stand, 
As  if  impatient  to  obey 

The  dictates  of  her  wand. 
Their  helmets' hidden  in  the  clouds, 

Their  sandals  in  the  spray; 
Go  picture  this,  and  then  you  have 

Dunedin  from  the  Bay. 

O  never  till  this  breast  grows  cold 

Can  I. forget  that  hour, 
As  standing  on  the  vessel's  deck, 

I  watched  the  golden  shower 


THE  OCTAGON,  DUNEDIN. 


DUNEDIN,  FROM  THE  N.  E.  VALLEY. 


NEW  ZEALAND.  J>5 

Of  yellow  beams  that  darted 

From  the  sinking  king  of  day, 
And  bathed  in  a  mellow  flood 

Dunedin  from  the  Bay. 

Dunedin  has  three  daily  papers,  issued  morning 
and  evening,  and  three  weekly  papers  —  and  all 
edited  with  signal  ability.  We  left  it  regretfully, 
but'  very  glad,  indeed,  that  we  had  seen  it,  and  es- 
pecially that  we  had.  found  so  many  there  loyal  to  the 
Saviour,  and  occupying  so  commanding  a  position. 

Bro.  Green,  the  preacher  at  the  Tabernacle,  was 
formerly  of  Manchester,  England,  where  he  and  Bro. 
Coop  were  well  known  to  each  other. 

We  close  this,  promising  but  one  more  letter  about 
New  Zealand,  and  then  something  of  what  we  may 
see  in  Australia.  T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 


LETTER  VI. 

NEW   ZEALAND.  —  THE    MAOEIES. 

WHEN  we  last  wrote  you  of  our  whereabouts,  we 
had  just  reached  this  far-off  land  of  Australia;  but 
before  we  say  anything  about  Australia,  it  may  prove, 
interesting  to  many  to  add  a  few  items  more  concern- 
ing New  Zealand.  Our  deep  conviction  is,  that  as  a 
country  for  those  seeking  new  homes,  it  has  advan- 
tages of  a  very  superior  character.  The  climate  can 
not  be  equalled  in  any  portion  of  the  United  States; 
while  the  prices  obtained  for  many  kinds  of  produce, 
so  far,  show  that,  though  England  as  a  market  is 
much  further  off  than  the  Western  States  of  America, 
yet  owing  to  the  high  rates  of  freight  levied  by  the 
railway  companies,  practically  the  Western  States  are 
a  long  way  further  off  from  England  than  are  these 
islands  called  New  Zealand.  There  is  an  energy,  a 
business  capacity,  an  enterprise,  which  does  every- 
thing in  the  most  solid  and  enduring  form,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  such  a  determination  that  business  cares 
and  toils  shall  not  usurp  an  undue  overshadowing  of 
the  higher  ends  of  life ;  that,  perhaps,  no  business 
communities  in  the  world  have  shorter  hours  of 
labor,  take  a  larger  number  of  holidays,  or  enjoy 

the  brighter  side  of  life  better  than  they  do  here  in 

(66} 


NEW  ZEALAND.  67 

New  Zealand  and  the  colonies  generally.  Their  edu- 
cational institutions,  by-and-bye,  will  have  no  su- 
periors in  the  world ;  and  even  now  their  common 
school  buildings  can  not  be  surpassed  for  extent, 
architectural  finish  and  solid  character.  There  is  noth- 
ing superior,  even  in  America,  to  that  which  here  is 
the  rule.  Their  church  buildings  are  not  surpassed, 
nor  even  nearly  approached,  except  in  rare  cases,  in 
any  of  the  cities  known  to  us  in  America.  The  peo- 
ple are  not  simply  religious,  but  pious,  where  religion 
is  professed.  England  is  reproduced  all  over  the 
colonies,  but  with  improvements.  We  have  scarcely 
seen  an  American-looking  face  since  reaching  these 
far-oif  lands,  and  it  may  be  that  the  influences  of 
climate,  soil,  and  general  habits  of  life,  will  finally 
issue  in  a  different  type  from  either  the  American  or 
the  now  everywhere  prevailing  English  type.  But 
the  character  will  be  always  English. 

Everywhere  we  heard  the  Maories  spoken  of  as  a 
very  superior  race  indeed,  and  a  universally  expressed 
regret  that  they  are  so  rapidly  dwindling  away.  Their 
specimens  of  carving  and  house-building  are  evidence 
of  great  capacity,  and  those  of  them  who  have  em- 
braced the  new  order  of  things,  and  entered  upon  the 
path  of  Anglo-Saxon  civilization,  are  reported  to  be 
exceedingly  shrewd  and  capable  as  business  men.  In 
their  savage  condition,  until  recently,  they  were  ex- 
ceptionally cruel,  all  of  them  cannibals,  and  with  a 
refinement  of  cruelty  scarcely  known  to  even  the 
most  ferocious  of  the  red  men  of  the  West.  Capt. 


68  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Cook  did  almost  as  much,  if  not  more,  than  has  been 
clone  by  civilization,  to  extinguish  cannibalism,  by 
putting  on  all  the  islands  a  number  of  pigs.  These 
so  rapidly  multiplied,  that  the  Maorie  found  it  easier 
and  safer  to  hunt  and  spear  a  few  pigs,  than  to  go  to 
war  for  the  sake  of  feeding  on  human  flesh.  The 
descendants  of  those  first  put  on  the  island  by  Capt. 
Cook  are  still  found  running  wild.  Bro.  Caleb  AVallis 
caught  one  of  these  some  little  time  ago,  and  when 
subjected  to  more  domestic  conditions  it  became  a 
very  fine  porker.  The  darkness,  superstition  and 
dreadful  cruelty,  which  through  unknown  time  have 
reigned  in  all  these  Southern  lands,  fill  the  mind  with 
thoughts  and  feelings  which  perplex  and  confound. 
Perhaps  one  of  the  most  baleful  hindrances  to  the 
disenthral  Ira  en  t  of  the  Maories  from  pure  barbarism, 
is  the  superstition  which  rules  over  them.  Large 
numbers  of  them  are  almost  moved  any  way  by  one 
of  their  prophets  named  Te-\Vhiti.  Quite  lately  he 
delivered  to  them  a  most  remarkable  speech,  wiiich, 
for  a  savage,  is  really  a  great  effort.  But  if  he  had 
studied  in  the  school  of  the  darkest  Calvinism,  with- 
out any  of  its  light,  he  could  not  have  been  more  dis- 
tinctly fatalistic.  He  strongly  insisted  that  God  from 
the- beginning  predestinated  every  thing  to  come  to 
pass,  that  has  ever,  or  ever  will,  come  to  pass ;  and  to 
him  they  give  heed.  He  told  a  large  assembly  of  the 
Maories  that,  whilst  through  himself  God  had  made 
it  known  that  there  was  to  be  no  more  fighting  be- 
tween the  Maories  and  the  Colonists,  yet  neither 


NEW  ZEALAND.  69 

was  there  to  be  any  mingling  of  the  races,  but  that 
each  race  must  keep  apart.  A  Colonist  who  was 
present  and  heard  his  speech,  and  sought  to  reply  to 
Te-Whiti,  was  at  once  prevented,  by  Te- \Yhiti  bid- 
ding the  people  to  go  home,  when  they  at  once  dis- 
persed. The  most  formidable  obstacles  in  the  way  of 
Maorie  advancement  lie  in  their  social  life.  Their 
communistic  habits  take  away  all  stimulus  to  indi- 
vidual exertion  and  effort.  Such  of  the  ponanga,  or 
lower  class,  as  work  for  Europeans,  have  no  incentive 
to  save  their  earnings;  for  if  not  spent  upon  them- 
selves in  meeting  their  own  individual  wants,  they 
are  sure  to  be  expended  in  one  way  or  another  on  the 
do-nothings  of  Maorie  society.  Occasionally  one 
more  enterprising  than  the  rest  is  found,  who  at- 
tempts to  acquire  a  little  -property  for  himself,  but 
finding  himself  "too  heavily  weighted,"  as  one  writer 
very  aptly  terms  it,  drops,  back  into  the  old  state 
again,  a  believer  in  kai  matatai  (food  from  the  sea), 
and  the  doles  from  the  Native  Land  Courts.  If  one 
should  happen  to  accumulate  property  in  the  shape  of 
cattle,  he  is  dragged  down  by  those  who  only  culti- 
vate enough  to  keep  them  from  starvation,  having  to 
conform  to  Maorie  customs,  which  is  still  regarded  as 
a  paramount  duty.  Quite  recently,  at  a  potato  plant- 
ing, at  a  few  hours'  notice,  in  the  very  midst  of  the 
season,  all  the  able-bodied  men  left  for  a  distant 
settlement,  to  take  part  in  proceedings  consequent 
on  a  witchcraft  case.  A  few  days  afterward,  a  death 
occurring  at  another  settlement,  the  remaining  part 


70  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

of  the  population  left  to  take  part  in  Maorie  customs 
over  the  dead ;  and  thus  the  best  part  of  the  season 
was  wasted.  Things  such  as  these  are  the  real  draw- 
backs to  Maorie  civilization.  It  is  quite  refresh- 
ing to  hear  all  classes  of  the  Colonists  express  a 
genuine  regret  that  this  fine  race  of  people  are  so 
slowly  emancipated  from  barbarism,  and  so  rapidly 
dwindling  away.  There  appears  to  be  one  serious 
mistake  made  by  the  Colonists  in  their  efforts  to 
civilize  them,  and  it  is  this.  The  Maories  present 
the  peculiar  spectacle,  that  whilst  nearly  all  of  them 
are  able  to  read  and  write,  and  are  eager  to  get 
knowledge,  they  yet  have  hardly  any  literature  except 
religious.  This  can  not  result  in  the  best  outcome. 
Fanaticism  is  often  the  result  amongst  even  white 
people  who  ignore  all  literature  save  that  which  is  re- 
ligious. It  seems  as  if  their  prophet,  Te-Whiti,  was 
largely  thus  influenced,  becoming  more  fanatical  from 
the  mixing  up  of  old  superstitions  with  ideas  de- 
rived from  the  scriptures.  Many  of  them  are  eager 
for  knowledge,  and  .one  instance  is  related  of  a  num- 
ber subscribing  together  for  the  Illustrated  London 
News,  and  though  unable  to  speak  English,  have  it 
read  and  translated  to  them  by  one  who  can.  There 
is  much  hope  for  the  young,  but  the  old  will  pass 
away  only  half  redeemed  by  civilization.  We  had  it 
related  to  us,  that  when  a  body  of  Maories,  some  £00 
in  number,  were  undergoing  their  drill  tactics,  the 
quickest  eye  could  not  detect  the  slightest  failure  — 
all  of  them  crouching  as  if  sitting  on  a  very  low  sup- 


NEW  ZEALAND.  71 

port,  but  in  reality  not  sitting  at  all,  and  at  the  given 
signal  presenting  the  white  palms  of  their  hands  first 
in  one  direction  and  then  in  another,  and  this  with 
wonderful  rapidity  and  unmarred  precision,  and  then 
suddenly  presenting  the  full  open  palms  of  both 
hands,  first  one  way  and  then  the  other,  but  so  sud- 
denly that  it  had  almost  the  appearance  of  a  flash  of 
lightning.  After  this,  and  with  the  same  astonishing 
precision  as  if  the  whole  800  were  but  one  man,  they 
leaped  up  straight  and  high  into  the  air,  and  alighted 
again  on  the  ground,  with  such  perfect  exactness  in 
time,  that  the  very  ground  vibrated  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. When  rowing  their  canoes,  we  wero  told  that 
the  head  is  thrown  back  till  it  nearly  touches  the 
spine,  and  forward  till  it  falls  on  the  breast,  and  with 
a  rapidity  of  action  that  is  a  wonder  to  Europeans. 

When  the  Islands  were  discovered  by  Capt.  Cook, 
and  until  as  late  as  but  a  few  years  ago,  their  canni- 
balism and  cruelty  were  of  the  most  dreadful  char- 
acter. Not  many  years  ago,  and  near  to  Auhenega, 
from  whence  we  embarked  when  leaving  Auckland, 
as  a  party  of  Maories  and  one  or  two  Englishmen 
were  pushing  their  way,  six  of  the  Maories  went  on 
first,  as  scouts,  being  at  war  with  some  other  tribe; 
by  and  by  a  slave  boy,  belonging  to  the  white  men, 
came  running  into  camp,  and  saying  that  these  six 
had  met  with  a  woman,  and  had  killed  and  eaten  her! 
Another  party  found  a  girl  hidden  under  some  mats, 
when  they  dragged  the  poor  girl  out  and  killed  her. 
One  of  them  cut  off  a  leg,  and  took  it  at  once  to  his 


72  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

slaves  to  put  in  the  oven  and  cook  for  him,  using  it 
on  the  road  as  a  walking-stick,  holding  the  foot  in 
his  hand.  At  the  same  time  a  man  was  fallen  in  with 
by  others,  who  was  immediately  killed  and  prepared 
for  the  oven.  Hearing  this,  the  white  men  went  to 
the  spot  indicated,  and  found  them  cutting  out  the 
bones  of  the  dead  man's  knee.  When  asked  why 
they  did  that,  they  replied  that  the  small  bone  (knee- 
cap) would  make  a  first-rate  pipe-bowl,  and  the  shin~ 
bone  a  flute !  The  hands  they  often  fastened  against 
the  walls  of  their  houses,  and  the  fingers  so  bent  as 
to  hold  fishing  tackle  or  any  other  thing.  In  their 
camp  they  had  a  white  girl,  with  red  hair.  On  the 
white  men's  return  from  the  scene  just  related,  they 
found  the  head  of  the  girl  in  among  the  ferns;  and  at 
the  same  time  a  Maorie  came  into  camp  carrying  the 
headless  body  of  a  woman  on  his  back,  with  the  arms 
around  his  neck,  and  which  he  at  once  put  into  an 
oven  that  happened  to  be  preparing,  and  a  slave, 
using  a  wisp  of  straw,  as  the  cooking  proceeded, 
rubbed-  off  the  dark  skin,  leaving  underneath  a  flesh 
as  white  as  a  European's. 

Captives  taken  in  war  were  often  tortured,  and  for 
this  purpose  were  handed  over  to  the  women,  who,  in 
war  time,  are  said  to  have  been  the  most  cruel,  and 
subjected  them  to  cruelties  too  horrible  to  relate. 
Self-sacrificing  missionaries  labored  hard  and  did 
what  they  could;  but  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  white 
men  in  New  Zealand  asks,  of  what  use  were  the 
blankets  and  Bibles  of  the  missionaries,  against  the 


NEW  ZEALAND.  73 

rum  and  muskets  of  the  whalers  and  trading  vessels? 
Missionaries,  from  various  causes,  have  found  it,  and 
still  find  it,  slow  work  amongst  them.  They  believe 
in  a  good  and  a  bad  spirit.  When  spoken  to  about  the 
soul,  they  would  captiously  ask  the  missionary  how 
he  knew  anything  about  it?  When  spoken  to  about 
their  false  gods,  they  would  get  angry,  and  tell  the 
speaker  to  hold  his  tongue,  or  talk  about  something 
else.  They  would  often  profess  to  believe  what  was 
said;  but  it  was  in  order  to  get  some  advantage  over 
the  missionary,  and  afterwards  indulge  in  merry 
laughter  at  his  expense.  It  is  said  that  a  Maorie  boy 
was  sent  to  Howe,  by  the  Catholic  bishop,  to  be  edu- 
cated, and  then  sent  back  to  New  Zealand  to  be  made 
into  a  priest,  but  turned  out  so  bad,  he  was  expelled 
from  their  school,  and  lived  and  died  a  bad  Maorie. 
The  present  Romish  Bishop  of  Wellington,  New  Zea- 
land, at  a  gathering  of  Catholics,  in  England,  a  few 
months  ago,  stated  that  there  were  about  8,000  of 
Maories  in  his  diocese,  and  of  these  about  1,000,  or 
nearly  so,  were  in  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
Protestantism,  he  spoke  of  as  the  leprosy  of  Chris- 
tianity. For  these  Catholic  Maories,  a  church  has 
been  built,  and  a  catechism  and  other  books  printed, 
at  a  cost  of  not  less  than  $2,500  for  each  publication ! 
fcatholic  and  Episcopalian  efforts  may  seem,  as  far  as 
numbers  are  concerned,  to  succeed  at  least  a  little,  but, 
with  whomsoever  we  talked,  there  was  expressed  a 
doubt  that  indicated  but  little  hope.  Te-Whiti,  one 
of  their  chiefest  prophets,  has  such  a  hold  upon  many 


74  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

of  them,  that  they  put  the  most  implicit  faith  in  his 
statements.  Quite  recently  he  told  his  followers  that 
very  shortly  the  Son  of  Man  will  come,  and  restore 
the  Maorie  to  his  place  of  rule  and  dominion  on  thfe 
earth.  An  educated  Maorie,  the  owner  of  a  race- 
horse, and  living  near  Auckland,  hearing  this  prophet 
thus  hold  forth,  and  telling  how  the  Lord  would 
come  with  the  multitude  of  his  angels,  trample  his 
enemies  under  foot,  and  establish  the  reign  of  right- 
ousness  on  earth,  exclaimed  with  glowing  eyes,  "  Is 
not  that  grand!"  Of  a  European  standing  by,  he 
asked,  "Did  you  buy  land  on  the  plains?"  On  be- 
ing answered  in  the  negative,  he  said,  "  That  is  right, 
for  the  Lord  will  come  in  his  might,  and  by  his  own 
power  restore  it  all  to  the  Maories."  One  night  Te- 
Whiti  spoke  for  three  hours,  telling  them  that  the 
Lord  was  about  to  come,  even  that  night.  The  night 
passed,  and  the  morning  came,  and  still  he  did  not 
come;  but  the  infatuated  Maories  believe  in  Te-Whiti 
still.  He  takes  care,  however,  amid  all  his  prophe- 
cies that  the  Lord  is  about  to  come  and  restore  all  the 
lands  back  to  the  Maories,  that  he  utters  no  words 
that  may  invite  to  a  breach  of  the  peace.  Perhaps, 
hardly  ever  was  there  such  a  compound  of  ability, 
heathen  superstition  and  mutilated  Christian  knowl- 
edge, as  meet  together  in  Te-Whiti,  and  no  influence 
at  work  amongst  this  splendid  race  is  more  obstruc- 
tive than  his.  Such  crowds  gather  under  his  influ- 
ence, that  some  epidemic,  it  is  feared,  will  be  the  re- 
sult •  they  live  in  such  a  limited  space  for  the  time 


NEW  ZEALAND.  75 

being,  and  under  the  worst  kind  of  sanitary  condi- 
tions. It  may  even  become  a  necessity  that  steps  be 
taken  to  counteract  the  whole  matter.  The  present 
indications  seem  to  be  that  the  great  body  of  adult 
Maories  will  pass  away  civilized  in  some  measure,  but 
wholly  unchristian ized.  If  the  professed  churches 
were  one,  and  these  made  united  effort,  there  is  no 
just  reason  to  doubt  but  the  entire  mass  of  them 
would  be  speedily  turned  from  darkness  to  light,  and 
from  the  power  of  Satan  unto  God.  As  it  is,  sec- 
tarianism operates  as  a  crushing  and  blighting  curse 
—  creeds  are  esteemed  of  more  consequence  than 
souls,  and  sectarian  shibboleths  of  more  value  than 
the  blood  of  redemption',  shed  for  the  salvation  of 
these  benighted  tribes  of  the  children  of  men.  Sec- 
tarianism, rather  than  see,  at  the  expense  of  its  creeds 
and  shibboleths,  "a  nation  born  in  a  day,"  would 
look  on,  and  with  but  a  broken  front  seek  to  accom- 
plish the  impossible,  and  suffer  the  people  to  perish, 
body  and  soul,  unless  they  can  be  saved  on  the  same 
plan  which  suffers  the  people  to  perish  at  home. 

We  now  leave  New  Zealand  and  its  people,  and  in 
our  next  will  try  to  tell  you  something  about  what  we 
saw  and  heard  and  did  in  Australia. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

MELBOURNE,  South  Australia,  Jan.  3, 1881. 


LETTER  VII. 

AUSTRALIA.  —  VICTORIA. 

WE  ARE  in  Australia,  the  turned-up-side-down 
part  of  the  world;  and  we  who  have  not  done  it, 
have  come  hither  also!  What  its  meaning  may  be,  is 
still  among  the  mysteries  the  future  only  can  reveal. 
If  we  were  astonished  at  nearly  everything  we  saw  in 
New  Zealand,  we  are  certainly  not  less  astonished  at 
what  we  see  here.  As  we  pass  over  the  "Rip,"  a 
place  "  where  two  seas  meet,"  for  a  vast  space  we  see 
the  waters  roll  and  tumble  in  great  waves,  and  liter- 
ally boil  and  swirl,  and  tumble  over  each  other,  as  if 
this  was  the  great  play-ground  of  the  waves  let  loose 
on  a  holiday.  Passing  across  this  exceedingly  restless 
"  Rip,"  after  a  short  time,  passing  over  the  Bay  of 
Port  Philip,  some  forty  miles  in  length,  we  enter  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Yarra  (a  native  name,  which 
means  flowing),  and  the  magnificent  city  of  Mel- 
bourne comes  into  sight  —  a  city,  with  its  suburbs,  of 
some  250,000  people,  and  which  has  grown  up  in  the 
time  of  many  who  came  here  strong  young  men,  and 
who  are  still  but  in  the  prime  of  life.  The  river  is 
crowded  on  either  bank  with  vast  industries  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  and  long  lines  of  ships  from  the  four 
points  of  the  compass  crowd  its  wharves.  As  we 

.  (76) ' 


AUSTRALIA.  77 

approached  the  city  (our  ship  stopping  at  one  point  to 
disembark  the  Government  mails),  a  small  vessel 
drew  near  containing  the  oarsmen  and  one  other 
man ;  a  young  man  passed  down  from  the  ship  into  it, 
when  we  all  knew  that  two  long-separated  brothers 
had  met.  They  flung  their  arms  passionately  around 
each  other,  kissed  each  other,  and  patted  each  other 
on  the  back,  and  renewed  their  embraces,  till  all  eyes 
were  moist,  and  choking  sensations  felt  in  the  throat. 
The  common  human  nature  of  all  seemed  to  find 
some  measure  of  expression  in  the  tearful  joy  of  these 
two  brothers.  By  and  by,  as  we  drew  near  to  the 
place  of  landing,  straining  eyes  were  directed  from 
the  ship  to  the  shore,  and  from  the  shore  to  the  ship, 
in  search  of  those  since  last  meeting  with  whom  long 
years  had  intervened.  A  hat  was  seen  to  be  lifted  off 
by  one  on  the  wharf,  speedily  recognized  by  one  on 
the  ship,  and  in  a  few  minutes  Bro.  Exley  had  grasped 
the  hand  and  given  the  speechless  kiss,  too  overcome 
to  utter  a  word,  to  the  only  brother  he  had  in  the 
world,  Mr.  George  Exley,  whose  long  separation  had 
lasted  through  twenty-eight  years.  Bro.  Earl  bap- 
tized him  many  years  ago,  and  he  is  now  one  of  the 
deacons  of  the  Lygon  street  church.  Bro.  Porter, 
late  evangelist  of  the  Collingwood  church,  also  came 
to  meet  and  give  welcome  to  these  Australian  shores. 
The  voyage  from  Dunedin,  New  Zealand,  to  Mel- 
bourne, lasted  six  days,  and  was  exceedingly  stormy 
and  distressing.  Bro.  Coop  having  started  a  few  days 
before  Bro.  Exley,  spent  a  little  time  at  Hobart,  Tas- 


78  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

mania,  and  made  a  few  very  pleasant  acquaintances. 
The  brethren  there  have  just  finished  the  erection  of 
a  nice  meeting-house,  and  are  hoping  to  do  a  good 
work  for  the  Lord  and  Christ. 

It  is  difficult  to  speak  of  Melbourne  as  a  new  city. 
Taking  it  all  in  all,  it  has  hardly  a  rival  anywhere  in 
the  world.  We  have  both  done  some  pretty  tall 
boasting  in  our  time  about  America,  but  really  we 
just  felt  as  if  hit  below  the  fair-fight  line  and  had  our 
breath  suddenly  taken  away.  Melbourne,  with  its 
magnificent  streets  and  side-paths,  its  immense  places 
of  business,  its  splendid  public  buildings,  its  large 
number  of  exceedingly  beautiful  and  large  and  solidly 
substantial  churches  of  all  persuasions,  its  wonderful 
Public  Library  and  Museum,  with  its  nearly  200 
pieces  of  costly  statuary,  its  galleries  of  oil-paintings 
and  water-color  drawings,  its  immense  Reading  Hall 
—  itself  one  of  the  noblest  and  most  imposing  struc- 
tures, magnificently  appointed,  with  its  lofty  ceiling, 
lighting,  carving,  gilding,  its  long  rows  of  supporting 
Corinthian  columns,  massive  marble  and  granite  — 
and  its  Library  of  more  than  101,000  volumes,  with 
immense  globes,  maps,  etc.,  and  every  accommodation 
for  readers  and  students  —  compel  unbounded  admira- 
tion, and  a  conviction  that  only  a  few  of  the  oldest 
and  wealthiest  cities  of  either  old  or  new  world  can 
at  all  compete  with  it.  San  Francisco,  in  many  re- 
spects, is  an  inferior  city  in  comparison.  Surprise  is 
a  feeble  word  to  express  our  sensations  —  the  more 
we  became  acquainted  with  the  city,  the  more  were 


AUSTRALIA.  79 

we  filled  with  a  ceaseless  delight.  Perhaps  no  city  in 
the  world,  certainly  none  of  the  same  age,  in  either 
America  or  England,  can  boast  of  so  many  and  such 
splendidly  appointed  and  well  kept  city  parks  and  re- 
serves as  Melbourne.  The  Zoological  gardens  are 
both  very  extensive;  have  one  of  the  finest  collections 
of  wild  animals  —  collected  from  all  over  the  world  — 
to  be  found,  with  few  exceptions.  Australia  has  a  large 
number  of  wonderful  serpents,  and  most  of  them  ap- 
pear to  be  poisonous  to  a  deadly  degree  —  quite  a  col- 
lection of  them  are  to  be  seen  in  the  gardens.  The 
largest  of  all  serpents  we  ever  saw  is  here,  and  is  of 
the  Rock  Snake  tribe,  and  was  brought  from  India. 
It  is  a  terrible  looking  beast. 

Adjoining  the  Zoological  Gardens  is  an  immense 
enclosure  called  the  Royal  Park.  We  do  not  know 
its  dimensions,  but  it  is  very  large.  On  New  Year's 
day  —  here  a  beautiful  summer  day  —  thousands  of 
the  Sunday-school  children  were  here  enjoying  them- 
selves in  all  kinds  of  innocent  games.  A  large  num- 
ber of  immense  tents  were  scattered  over  the  park, 
and  abundant  provision  was  made  for  the  wants  of  all. 
Our  brethren  were  well  represented  —  not  less  than 
three  large  tents  were  erected  in  different  parts  of  the 
park,  belonging  to  the  churches  of  Lygon  street, 
Collingwood  and  Hotham,  and  scholars,  teachers  and 
friends  enjoyed  themselves  to  the  full.  The  town 
hall,  for  a  new  city,  is  an  astonishing  building,  the 
like  of  which  it  would  be  hard  to  find  in  most  cities. 
Its  Public  Hall  —  which  seats  3,200  persons  —  has  an 


N80  'A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

organ  which  they  claim,  for  power  and  quality,  to  be 
second  only  to  the  largest  in  the  world.  It  was  built 
by  the  same  firm  which  built  the  great  organ  in  the 
Crystal  Palace,  Sydenham,  London.  Its  hight  is  32 
feet,  and  it  contains  more  than  4,000  pipes,  and  cost 
$35,000.  The  hall  commands  $100  per  night  rental. 
The  post-office,  considering  the  age  of  the  city,  will 
bear  favorable  comparison  with  even  New  York  city. 
The  government  buildings,  it  is  believed,  exceed  any- 
thing in  America,  except  in  a  few  of  the  oldest  and 
wealthiest  States,  whilst  the  streets  have  no  superior 
in  the  world. 

Melbourne  is  the  capital  of  the  Colony  of  Victoria, 
a  region  about  450  miles  in  length  by  250  in  breadth, 
embracing  only  a  few  square  miles  less  than  Great 
Britain,  exclusive  of  the  smaller  islands.  Victoria 
colony  comprises  about  one  thirty -fourth  part  of  this 
vast  island  continent.  It  does  not  yet  contain  one 
million  of  people;  but  of  these  ninety-five  per  cent, 
are  British  subjects  by  birth,  and  only  five  per  cent, 
of  foreign  birth.  About  642,000  of  the  population 
are  Protestants,  211,000  Romanists,  5,000  Jews,  2,200 
Pagans,  and  about  2,200  nondescript.  There  are 
about  119  males  to  100  females  in  the  population. 
Nearly  1,100  post-offices,  and  a  most  efficient  postal 
service  exists  throughout  the  whole  colony,  and  some 
idea  may  be  formed  as  to  the  business  of  the  postal 
departments,  from  the  official  report,  that  in  1879 
more  than  36,500,000  letters,  newspapers  and  packets 
passed  through  the  various  post-offices  in  the  colony. 


PUBLIC  LIBRARY,  NATIONAL  GALLERY,  AND  MUSEUM. 


NEW  LAW  COURTS. 


AUSTRALIA.  81 

The  colony  has  much  more  than  3,000  miles  of  tele- 
graph line,  and  nearly  6,000  miles  of  wire  in  opera- 
tion ;  over  which,  in  1879,  were  transmitted  1,010,116 
telegrams  —  one-fourth  of  which  were  on  Govern- 
ment account.  All  the  railways  of  Victoria  are  the 
property  of  the  State,  nearly  1,200  miles  of  which  are 
open  for  traffic  —  about  4,000,000  miles  were  traveled 
over  in  1879 ;  the  total  receipts  from  which  were 
nearly  $7,500,000,  leaving  the  Government  nearly 
$3,750,000  clear  income  above  working  expenses.  In 
1879  this  little  colony,  and  so  thinly  settled  as  yet, 
had  210,105  horses,  290,436  milch  cows,  894,436 
other  horned  cattle,  9,379,276  sheep  and  177,373  pigs. 
From  these  facts  it  is  u  clear  thing  that  Australia  (for 
all  the  other  colonies  are  equally  rich  in  these  direc- 
tions) will  prove  a  very  formidable  competitor  with 
the  great  West,  in  the  English  markets.  That  com- 
petition has  already  successfully  begun,  and  unless 
railway  freights  are  very  largely  reduced  in  all  the 
Western  States,  the  West  will  have  to  beat  a  retreat. 
Not  only  this,  but  the  Australians  are  wide-awake 
to  the  quality  of  their  stock,  and  this  is  certainly  of 
a  high  order,  compared  to  much  of  the  scrub  stock 
which  now  finds  its  way  to  England  from  American 
shi  ppers. 

Knowing  that  the  Standard  has  a  large  circulation 
among  Western  farmers,  these  items  are  given  as  be- 
ing of  real  interest  to  them,  so  that  they  may  take 
steps  to  lose  no  market  open  to  them,  but  so  improve 
as  to  keep  and  extend. 


82  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  Victorian  gold-fields,  since  first  discovered  in 
1851,  have  yielded  about  49,000,000  ounces  of  gold, 
which,  at  twenty  dollars  per  ounce,  reaches  the 
enormous  sum  of  $980,000,000. 

As  an  indication  of  the  intellectual  tastes  of  Vic- 
torians—  the  Public  Library  of  Melbourne  alone  was 
visited  by  about  260,000  persons  in  1878.  Besides 
this  institution,  there  are  scattered  through  the  col- 
ony 169  other  libraries,  athenaeums,  scientific,  literary 
and  mechanics7  institutes,  and  possessing  more  than 
221,600  volumes;  and  the  buildings  erected  for  them, 
in  almost  every  instance,  judging  from  what  we  saw, 
are  not  only  substantial,  but  of  great  architectural 
beauty.  These  various  institutions  were  visited  during 
the  year  1878,  when  no  special  excitement  was  urging 
them,  by  more  than  2,600,000  persons.  All  these 
institutions,  except  one  or  two,  are  open  to  the  public, 
free  of  charge.  It  is  believed  that  the  educational 
institutions  and  methods  and  results  will  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  any  country  in  the  world.  It 
was  officially  stated  by  the  government  statist,  that  all 
the  children  in  Victoria,  between  the  ages  of  six  and 
fifteen,  were  found  receiving  education  during  some 
part  of  the  year,  except  about  7|  per  cent.  Out  of 
a  population  of  less  than  a  million  by  several  scores 
of  thousands,  227,037  children  were  attending  school. 
Indeed,  in  whatever  direction  our  inquiries  extended, 
or  our  footsteps  wandered,  the  conviction  was  forced 
upon  us  that  the  best  informed  Englishmen  in  Eng- 
land, who  have  not  seen  these  colonies,  are  almost  en- 


AUSTRALIA.  83 

tirely  ignorant  of  what  is  being  done  here ;  and  the 
American  who  does  not  desire  to  modify  his  opinion 
that  America  is  ahead  of  all  other  countries  in  the 
world,  had  certainly  better  stay  at  home. 

Melbourne  has  no  rival  for  a  city  of  her  years. 
Victoria,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  Australian  colonies, 
is  some  10,000  miles  further  away  from  the  great 
centers  of  population,  civilization  and  wealth  of  the 
old  world,  than  any  of  the  States;  and  yet,  with  this 
immense  drawback,  she  can  surely  carry  off  the  palm 
in  a  large  number  of  things,  without  which  no  city  or 
country  can  be  truly  prosperous.  The  entire  State  of 
Iowa  can  not  successfully  compete  with  this  one  city 
—  Melbourne. 

There  is  no  such  extreme  poverty  in  this  colony  as 
abounds  in  the  large  cities  of  England  or  America. 
Melbourne,  with  her  city-like  suburban  towns,  con- 
tains about  280,000  people,  yet  we  saw  only  sobriety, 
cleanliness,  and  a  universal  neatness  in  dress. 

The  hours  of  labor  are  eight  hours  per  day,  begin- 
ning at  8  A.  M.,  and  closing  at  5  p.  M.,  with  one  hour 
off  for  dinner.  Saturdays,  all  quit  work  at  1  p.  M. 
Common  laborers  receive  $1.80  per  day,  and  skillful 
workmen  from  $2.50  to  $3.00  per  day.  Flour  is 
about  three  cents  per  pound,  retail;  mutton  and  beef, 
about  four  to  six  cents.  Clothing  is  cheaper  than  in 
America,  but  dearer  than  in  England.  The  people 
take  a  large  number  of  holidays  —  in  which  even  the 
most  important  public  officers  participate. 

Christmas  day  and  New  Year's  day  both  falling  on 


84  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Saturday,  we  were  surprised  to  find  that  even  these 
were  all  closed  from  Friday  night  in  each  week,  until 
the  following  Tuesday  morning,  except  from  7  to  9:30 
A.  M.  on  Monday.  Life  here  seems  to  be  enjoyed, 
,and  there  is  such  a  very  marked  absence  of  the  rowdy 
element,  even  on  the  most  public  occasions,  that  one 
is  compelled  to  admire  the  good  order,  self-respect 
and  law-abiding  character  which  are  marked  traits  of 
the  Australians,  as  far  as  our  opportunities  for  form- 
ing an  opinion  enabled  us  to  do  so. 

Under  the  guidance  of  Bro.  J.  A.  Davis,  we  paid  a 
visit,  to  the  Exhibition  grounds,  buildings  and  ex- 
hibits; and  here,  also,  the  Australians  may  fairly 
challenge  any  city  on  earth  that  is  of  the  same  age  as 
Melbourne.  The  buildings  are  not  simply  of  an  ex- 
tent required  by  their  international  character,  but 
grand  in  conception  and  execution.  They  stand  in 
the  midst  of  an  immense  public  square,  containing 
nearly  a  hundred  acres,  laid  out  as  if  with  fairy  wand 
directed  by  a  poet's  eye.  The  fountains,  statuary, 
shrubbery,  trees  and  flowers,  are  all  laid  out  with  the 
most  exquisite  skill  and  perfect  taste;  the  whole  of 
the  grounds  enclosed  by  an  iron  fence  both  lofty  and 
very  beautiful,  the  like  of  which  we  don't  recollect 
seeing  anywhere  but  surrounding  some  of  the  great 
parks  in  London.  As  we  went  through  the  various 
departments,  it  was  very  evident  that  in  all  classes  of 
Australian  exhibits,  especially  in  silver  and  gold, 
woolen  fabrics  and  machinery,  in  their  several  depart- 
ments, Australia  is  abreast  with  the  foremost,  and 


A  USTRALIA.  85 

need  not  fear  any.  The  machinery  would  be  a  credit 
to  the  best  firms  in  the  world,  and  it  is  clear  that  if 
Australia  should  import  much,  it  would  be  because 
her  demands  are  larger  than  her  present  facilities  can 
supply,  and  not  because  of  any  deficiency  in  skill. 

We  had  a  very  pleasant  interview  with  Rev.  Mr. 
Rantoul,  Presbyterian  minister,  formerly  of  South- 
port,  England,  and  also  with  Rev.  Mr.  Chapman, 
Baptist  minister.  He  told  us  the  Baptists  numbered 
about  2,000  members  in  Melbourne.  They  are  open 
communion,  and  very  open.  Their  church  edifice  is  a 
splendid  aifair,  and  their  school-rooms  are  of  a  fine 
order.  You  may  be  sure  that  we  were  busy  enough, 
in  one  way  or  another.  Bro.  Coop  gave  addresses  to 
the  brethren  of  Lygon  street,  Collingwood,  Unity 
Hall,  Hawthorne,  and  one  or  two  other  places,  on 
missions  and  Sunday-school  work;  whilst  Bro.  Exley 
had  hardly  touched  Melbourne,  although  wearied  out, 
almost,  with  six  days'  tossing  on  the  sea,  before  he 
was  pressed  into  the  service.  The  meetings  were 
such  that,  so  far  as  known  to  us,  we  have  no  such 
meetings  in  England  or  America,  save  in  few  in- 
stances. Bro.  Exley  preached  on  "  The  Beginning 
at  Jerusalem,"  in  the  vast  Music  Academy,  to  an  au- 
dience—  although  it  was  one  of  those  almost  intoler- 
ably hot  days  which  now  and  then  sweep  over  the 
land  —  of  more  than  1,500  people.  On  more  favor- 
able evenings,  Bro.  Haley  has  an  audience  of  more 
than  2,000!  We  have  no  meeting-houses,  so  far  as 
known  to  us,  west  of  the  Mississippi,  at  all  to  be  com- 


86  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

pared  with  those  in  the  colonies,  for  capacity,  solidity 
and  school  accommodations.  Davenport,  Iowa,  and 
Dubuque,  come  nearest.  The  membership  x>f  the 
various  churches  of  the  brethren  in  the  city  and  the 
suburbs,  is  about  1,400  to  1,500.  Bro.  Haley  is  the 
Evangelist  in  Lygon  street,  and  now  that  the  services 
in  the  Music  Academy  are  closed  for  the  season,  the 
church  in  Lygon  street  is  crowded.  Last  Lord's  day 
evening,  after  the  address,  quite  a  number,  some  eight 
or  ten,  went  forward.  Bro.  Bates,  late  of  Christ 
Church,  New  Zealand,  is  the  evangelist  of  the  church 
in  Collingwood  ;  Bro.  Yates,  of  North  Filzroy  ;  Bro. 
P.  Brown,  of  Footscray,  and  Bro.  Colburne,  of  Ho- 
tham.  Besides  these,  there  are  churches  of  consider- 
able strength  and  ability,  meeting  in  Unity  Hall, 
Swanston  street,  and  Prahran,  the  latter  of  which  has 
a  good,  substantial  church,  but  which  is  now  unsuit- 
able, and  they  are  about  to  build  a  larger.  All  of 
them  have  Sunday-schools  where  they  have  facilities 
for  them,  and  good  ones,  with  efficient  staffs  of 
teachers  and  officers.  There  is  also  another  church  at 
Hawthorne,  only  feeble  as  yet,  besides  several  church- 
es scattered  at  distances  of  from  four  to  thirty  miles 
from  Melbourne.  Bro.  Haley  was  Bright  when  he 
said,  "  We  know  how  to  set  preachers  at  work,  who 
come  around  these  parts."  We  had  ample  proof  of 
their  ability  in  this  line.  Bro.  Coop  spoke  in  nearly 
every  one  of  the  city  and  suburban  churches.  Whilst 
Bro.  Exley  preached  some  sixteen  times  amongst 
them,  although  never  strong  any  of  the  time.. 


AUSTRALIA.  87 

One  thing  is  very  noticeable  in  all  the  colonial 
churches  —  they  sing.  All  seem  to  esteem  it  a  pre- 
cious part  of  the  worship  to  sing,  and  they  sing  as  if 
they  felt  it  was  a  privilege.  Bro.  Exley  insists  that, 
whilst  personally  loving  the  organ,  and  having  no  ob- 
jection to  it  in  worship  under  some  circumstances,  yet 
that  to  introduce  an  organ  here  would  be  an  imper- 
tinence, as  well  as  an  intrusion,  and  out  of  place, 
if  used  to  lead  or  improve  the  music  where  such  sing- 
ing is  maintained  as  we  have  heard;  and  that  the 
shortest  way  to  settle  the  music  question  is  to  get  the 
heart  so  filled  with  praise  that  the  lips  must  utter  it 
forth ;  and  at  once  to  stop  all  controversy  about  the 
organ.  But  some  fear  (troubled  consciences  especial- 
ly) that  Bro.  Exley's  idea  is  a  dangerous  one  —  and 
it  certainly  is,  if  the  wonderful  words  are  true,  lately 
spoken  in  the  Edinburgh  Free  Presbytery,  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Balfour  and  Rev.  Dr.  Begg,  that  "  hymns  never 
came  alone.  -Their  introduction  invariably  opened 
the  door  for  other  innovations  in  the  direction,  for  ex- 
ample, of  instrumental  music  and  artistic  singing"! 
Was  there  ever  human  wisdom,  so  much  of  it,  crushed 
into  one  sentence  before?  If  these  gentlemen  are  right, 
then  Bro.  Exley  is  wrong,  and  we  had  better  let  the 
hymns  alone;  also,  lest  their  use  should  bring  in  artist- 
ic singing,  and  so  corrupt  the  simplicity  of  Christian 
praise,  let  us  have  recourse  to  " guid  hard  psaums" 
read  or  sung  in  in-artistic  manner.  We  spent  Christ- 
mas day  at  Bro.  Alfred  Shaw's  hospitable  home,  whose 
beautiful  house  and  grounds,  instead  of  looking,  as  they 


88  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

are,  but  a. few  years  old,  wear  all  the  appearance  of  a 
genuine  old  English  home,  with  the  best  taste  and  art 
employed  to  lay  off  the  grounds  and  make  every 
thing  look  beautiful.  Here  we  saw  oranges  or  lemons, 
we  forget  which,  perhaps  both,  the  trees  bearing 
blossoms,  fruit  just  forming,  well  grown  fruit  unripe, 
fully  grown  fruit,  and  ripe,  all  on  the  same  tree!  Bro. 
and  Sister  Haley,  Bro.  George  Exley,  and  Brethren 
Coop  and  H.  Exley,  put  in  a  great  day  there,  Bro. 
and  Sister  Shaw  showing  us  every  courtesy.  The 
day  was  finished  off  by  a  large  balloon  being  sent  up, 
to  find  if  it  could,  and  give  welcome  to,  the  incoming 
New  Year,  1881,  and  bid  a  kindly  farewell  to  the  old 
one,  1880.  Bro.  J-.  A.  Davis,  a  gentleman  whom 
Bro.  J.  B.  Rotherham  baptized  in  England  many 
years  ago,  with  his  excellent  lady,  made  us  most  wel- 
come to  their  hospitable  mansion,  also  inviting  us  to 
make  it  our  home  during  our  stay  in  Melbourne. 
They  invited  quite  a  nice  company  of  Brothers  and 
Sisters  to  a  social  cup  of  tea,  to  meet  us  and  spend  a 
pleasant  social  evening  together.  From  all  we  know 
and  can  learn,  the  cause  has  taken  deep  hold  in  Mel- 
bourne and  surrounding  suburbs  and  country  in  the 
colony  of  Victoria.  The  material  composing  the 
churches  is  such  as  we  feel  sure  would  gladden  the 
hearts  of  the  brethren,  both  in  the  United  States  and 
all  over  Great  Britain.  Their  path  has  not  been  a 
smooth  one,  nor  is  it  likely  to  be;  but  the  brethren 
have  done  a  grand  work,  and  are  awake  to  the  neces- 
sity of  putting  forth  all  their  strength  to  maintain  it 


AUSTRALIA.  89 

and  extend  it.  Sister  Haley  is  doing  a  good  work  in 
teaching  a  large  singing-class,  in  connection  with  the 
church  on  Lygon  street.  Bro.  and  Sister  George 
Green  well  have  both  safely  arrived  from  England, 
and  are  looking  well.  Their  destination  is  Adelaide, 
in  the  Colony  of  South  Australia.  He  will,  it  is 
hoped,  be  of  real  service  to  the  churches.  There  is 
work  here  to  do  which  he  is  well  qualified  to  do,  and 
which,  perhaps,  he  has  been  brought  here  providen- 
tially to  do. 

On  the  8th  of  January,  Bro.  Coop,  leaving  Mel- 
bourne for  Adelaide,  left  Bro.  Exley  to  follow  a  few 
days  later,  so  that  he  could  preach  at  Collingwood  the 
next  Lord's  day,  in  the  absence  of  Bro.  Bates. 

At  this  point  we  drop  our  mutual  pen,  and  prom- 
ise, the  Lord  permitting,  to  resume  it  again  in  the 
city  of  Adelaide;  only  further  saying  that,  so  far  as 
we  know,  our  visit  has  not  been  in  vain,  and  that  all 
would  be  glad  to  see  us  again. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

MELBOURNE,  Australia,  Jan.  9. 


LETTER  VIII. 

SOUTH    AUSTKALIA.  —  ADELAIDE. 

/ 

LEAVING  Melbourne,  Jan.  10th,  1881,  after  some 
fifty  hours'  sailing,  we  reached  in  safety  the  city  of 
Adelaide,  the  capital  of  South  Australia.  Bro.  Hin- 
dle,  late  Evangelist  in  England,  and  who  is  now  oc- 
cupying the  pulpit  of  the  Grote  Street  Church,  until 
the  return  of  Bro.  Gore  from  America,  together  with 
Bro.  Smith,  Evangelist  of  the  church  at  Hindmarsh, 
Adelaide,  and  a  daughter  of  Bro.  George  Greenwell, 
of  England  also,  were  all  on  the  wharf  tg  give  us 
welcome,  as  we  stepped  on  shore,  saying,  "  Welcome 
to  South  Australia!" 

The  voyage  was  very  stormy.  Indeed,  it  is  to  us 
an  evident  mistake  to  call  these  waters,  the  South 
Pacific.  Since  sighting  the  shores  of  New  Zealand 
till  now,  every  time  we  have  been  on  the  sea  we 
could  most  truthfully  sing, 

'•Storm  after  storm  rises  dark  o'er  my  way." 

However,  we  reached  in  safety  the  city  of  Adel- 
aide, "The  Beautiful."  Whilst  Melbourne  is  the 
capital  city  of  the  colony  of  Victoria,  Adelaide  is  the 
capital  city  of  the  Province  and  colony  of  South 

Australia.       Besides   these    large   regions,    there    are 
(90) 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  91 

three  other  immense  tracts  of  country,  each  one  large 
enough  to  become  the  seat  of  great  nations,  viz. :  New 
South  Wales,  Queensland  and  Western  Australia. 
The  region  called  South  Australia,  and  which  is  all 
comprised  within  this  one  colony,  has  an  area  of  914,- 
930  square  miles,  or  about  585,427,200  acres,  and 
stretches  across  the  whole  island-continent,  from  the 
Southern  Ocean  to  the  Indian  Oceon. 

The  colony  was  founded  in  1836,  and  many  of  its 
first  settlers  are  still  living  to  see  the  fruits  of  their 
daring,  courage  and  enterprise.  Standing  on  a  spot 
of  ground  facing  to  the  sea,  at  Glenelg,  some  six 
miles  from  Adelaide,  and  under  a  very  large  natural 
arch  formed  by  the  bending  over  of  a  very  large 
Blue  Gum  tr^e,  until  three  of  its  limbs  touch  the 
ground,  at  a  distance  of  about  forty  feet  from  the 
trunk,  stood  Sir  John  Hind  marsh,  K.  N.,  on  the  28th 
of  January,  1836,  and  proclaimed  this  country  a 
colony  of  the  British  Crown.  January  28th  is  the 
National  red-letter  day  of  the  Sonth  Australians.  At 
this  time,  Port  Adelaide,  about  eight  miles  away,  had 
not  been  discovered.  By  the  kind  courtesy  of  Bro. 
T.  Magarey,  whose  sea-side  residence  is  close  at  hand, 
we  were  taken  to  see  it,  and  stood  under  the  venerable 
arch,  perhaps  on  the  Very  spot  from  whence  Sir  John 
Hindmarsh  had  proclaimed  the  colony,  some  forty- 
four  years  a<ro,  and  distant  about  one  mile  from  the 
spot  where  the  first  Pilgrim  Fathers  landed.  Since 
then,  there  has  been  witnessed  the  successful  experi- 
ment of  planting  a  free  colony  on  a  free  soil,  where 


92  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

liberty  flourishes  without  licentiousness,  and  where, 
also,  the  daring,  restless  and  expansive  energy  of  the 
present,  has  not  —  nor  seems  likely  to  —  broken  away 
from  the  traditions  of  the  past.  It  seems  to  be  cer- 
tainly true,  that  here,  the  freest  of  free  political  and 
religious  institutions  flourish  harmoniously  side  by 
side  with  a  profound  regard  for  and  attachment  to  the 
monarchical  institutions  of  the  mother  country,  of 
which  we  never  heard  them  speak  but  with  the  realest 
affection  —  and  always  speaking  of  England  as  Home. 
They  boast  of  possessing  the  broadest  form  of  politi- 
cal and  religious  liberty,  and  along  with  that  a  very 
marked  absence  of  lawless  excess.  They  are  a  grand 
proof  that  religion  can  flourish  without  a  State 
church,  and  they  possess  a  government  —  one  by 
themselves,  and  for  themselves;  and  that  without 
losing  their  attachment  to  the  institutions  and  gov- 
ernment of  the  land  that  has  become  the  fruitful 
mother  of  such  mighty  nations. 

This  one  colony  of  South  Australia  is  in  length 
about  2,000  miles,  by  about  five  hundred  miles  in 
breadth  —  a  very  vast  region,  truly.  It  has  a  popu- 
lation, however,  of  only  some  260,000  people,  at  the 
utmost.  Of  these,  about  5,000  are  aborigines,  but 
they  are  rapidly  dwindling  away.  A  bare  recital  of 
what  may  look  like  common-place  facts,  and  without 
the  slightest  desire  to  boast,  may  certainly  give  a 
large  and  very  legitimate  pride  to  every  South  Aus- 
tralian. 

The  colony  was  founded  on  principles  directly  op- 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  93 

posed  to  a  State  Church,  and  yet  two-thirds  of  the 
entire  population  have  provided  themselves  with 
places  of  worship.  Over  900  churches  and  other 
buildings  have  been  erected  for  worship,  containing 
about  150,000  sittings.  About  eighty-five  per  cent, 
of  the  population  are  Protestants,  and  the  other 
fifteen  per  cent.  Romanists.  The  Church  of  England 
has.  the  largest  membership,  but  the  Wesleyan  Meth- 
odists have  the  larger  number  of  places  of  worship. 
There  appears  also  to  be  a  most  active  and  efficient 
Sunday-school  work  carried  on,  as  about  40,000  chil- 
dren attend  the  Sunday-schools,  or  one  in  six  and 
a  half  of  the  whole  population. 

The  institutions  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  —  hospi- 
tals for  the  poor,  outcast,  blind^insane,  old  and 
infirm,  deaf  and  dumb,  and  for  even  inebriates  —  are 
so  many  and  so  well  provided  for,  that  it  is  believed 
that  this  little  handful  of  people  does  more  to  bless 
humanity  and  to  put  something  of  divine  sweetness 
into  the  cup  of  human  bitterness  and  sorrow,  than 
did  the  whole  Roman  Empire  during  the  whole  thou- 
sand years  of  its  existence,  from  first  to  last. 

As  an  indication  of  the  thrift  of  the  Colony,  it  may 
be  observed  that  there  was  exported  in  1879  to  the 
value  of  $94.80  per  head  for  the  whole  population, 
whilst  the  imports  reached  the  same  sum,  and  a  small 
fraction  over.  Among  the  exports  there  were  90,000 
tons  of  flour  and  442,000  quarters  of  wheat.  There 
is  no  question  but  what  the  great  Western  States  will 
have  formidable  competitors  in  breadstuff's  in  all 


94  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

these  colonies,  as  well  as  in  beef.  In  1879  fully  seven 
and  a  half  millions  of  dollars  in  breadstuifs  was  ex- 
ported from  this  little  Colony  alone.  Besides  this, 
they  exported  some  56,000,000  pounds  of  wool,  and 
of  splendid  quality.  Nearly  two-thirds  of  the  export 
trade  of  this  Colony  is  absorbed  by  Great  Britain. 
There  has  just  been  completed  and  perfected  an  Aus- 
tralian Reaping  Machine,  which,  by  a  very  simple  ar- 
rangement, also  threshes  out  the  wheat  in  the  cleanest 
manner.  We  were  told  that  it  was  not  ready  in  time 
to  be  entered  in  the  list  of  Australian  exhibits  in  the 
International  Exhibition  now  being  held  in  Mel- 
bourne. It  is,  however,  pronounced  a  success.  South 
Australia  already  exports  to  England  reaping  ma- 
chines. Indeed,  there  are  a  large  number  of  articles 
produced  or  manufactured  in  these  Colonies  which 
will  prove  no  small  competitors  against  all  other 
countries  in  the  English  markets. 

The  total  liabilities  of  the  eight  South  Australian 
banks  are  but  little  more  than  one-half  of  their  assets. 
The  bank  buildings  are  marvels  of  architecture,  both 
for  splendor  and  extent. 

In  1879,  this  one  Colony,  containing  but  a  com- 
parative handful  of  people,  possessed  133,000  horses, 
266,000  horned  cattle,  6,000,000  sheep,  90,500  pigs, 
and  11,200  goats.  Since  their  copper  mines  were 
first  discovered,  but  a  few  years  ago,  they  have  ex- 
ported more  than  $80,000,000  worth  of  copper.  They 
have  built  nrore  than  620  miles  of  railway,  and  are 
rapidly  extending  their  old  lines  and  building  new 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  95 

ones.  They  have  built  more  than  3,300  miles  of 
highways,  very  broad,  and  of  such  a  solid  character 
that  it  is  very  doubtful  if  the  entire  West  from  the 
Missouri  could  show  in  the  aggregate,  not  only  so 
many  miles  of  decent  roads,  but  outside  of  cities  any- 
thing comparable  to  these.  Nearly  1,000  miles  of 
these  roads  are  built  in  the  most  thoroughly  solid 
manner,  and  metalled  to  the  depth  of  some  eight  to 
ten  inches  with  the  best  material.  We  have  not  seen 
even  a  small  country  bridge  but  what  is  so  substantial 
that  the  heaviest  trains  and  weights  could  be  run  over 
it  ad  libitum.  The  larger  bridges  are  very  fine  and 
strong,  built  to  last  for  generations.  One  of  them, 
stretching  across  the  river  Murray,  is  1,900  ft.  long. 
Besides  all  this,  these  enterprising  colonists  have 
actually  built  more  than  4,400  miles  of  telegraph 
line,  and  of  this  nearly  2,000  miles  form  one  continu- 
ous line  stretching  from  Adelaide  in  the  south  to 
Port  Darwin  in  the  north,  thus  stretching  across  the 
entire  continent,  and  over  1,350  miles  of  the  country 
entirely  unsettled  by  white  men.  Iron  posts  are  used 
over  the  larger  part  of  the  line,  and  both  posts  and 
wire  had  to  be  carted  over  the  whole  distance.  Wells 
had  to  be  sunk  at  many  points  for  water;  a  serious 
number  of  the  horses  died,  and  one-third  of  the  bul- 
locks, but  in  spite  of  all  difficulties,  in  less  than  two 
years  this  great  trans-continental  telegraph  line  was 
completed,  bringing  South  Australia  into  telegraphic 
communication  with  nearly  the  whole  civilized  world, 
and  done  and  paid  for  by  a  population  of,  then,  less 


96  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

than  900,000  souls.  The  natives  often  attacked  them 
as  they  made  their  way  across  this  almost  terra  incog- 
nita, but  after  they  had  received  a  few  shocks  from 
the  batteries,  they  let  the  wires  alone,  and  spread  con- 
sternation among  their  savage  friends,  calling  the 
telegraph  the  "  white  fellows'  devil." 

The  city  of  Adelaide,  with  its  suburbs,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  some  40,000  people.  It  is  one  and  one-third 
miles  square,  with  five  large  reserves  of  park  grounds, 
so  located  as  to  be  both  exceedingly  ornamental  and 
conducive  to  the  health  and  beauty  of  the  city,  and 
also  laid  out  and  planted  with  trees,  shrubs  and 
flowers,  and  well  fenced  in.  The  streets  are  all  laid 
out  at  right  angles,  and  are  equal  to  anything  at  least 
in  this  half  of  the  world.  The  entire  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  belt  of  park  lands  nearly  half  a  mile 
wide,  reserved  by  act  of  Parliament  for  the  health, 
pleasure  and  recreation  of  the  people.  Every  even- 
ing, except  Lord's  day  evening,  when  fine,  the  game 
of  cricket  is  played  by  large  numbers  of  people. 
Bro.  D.  Galle,  a  gentleman  connected  with  the  press, 
and  well  known  in  Adelaide,  as  he  drove  us  around 
the  city,  assured  us  that  he  had  counted,  on  a  Satur- 
day afternoon,  as  many  as  forty  games  of  cricket 
being  played  at  the  same  time  on  these  park-lands, 
and  not  big  boys  merely,  but  by  the  strong  muscle, 
bone  and  sinew  of  the  city. 

Two  daily  papers,  of  eight  large  pages,  are  pub- 
lished in  the  city,  each  of  which  also  appears  in  an 
evening  edition.  Their  morning  editions  are  about 


View  in  the  Botanio  Gardens.— The  Main  Walk  and  Central  Fountain. 


View  in  the  Botanic  Gardens.— The  Rosary. 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  97 

10,000,  the  evening  not  so  large.  Each  office  also 
issues  a  weekly.  One  of  them,  as  large  as  the  Stand- 
ard, contains  forty  pages,  filled  with  the  best  reading, 
and  forming  a  continuous  history  of  the  colony.  The 
other  issues  also  its  weekly,  in  large  and  handsome 
form,  and  contains  twenty-eight  pages.  Besides  these, 
there  are  some  thirty  other  papers  published  in  the 
Colony,  and  several  religious  periodicals  in  addition. 
Indeed,  their  reading-rooms,  museums  and  educa- 
tional institutions  indicate  a  people  very  forward  to 
understand  and  secure  the  advantages  of  a  wide  and 
liberal  culture.  Common  school  education  is  com- 
pulsory between  the  ages  of  seven  and  thirteen.  The 
text-books  arc  on  a  graduated  scale,  approved  by  the 
Government;  and  no  teacher,  highest  or  lowest,  is 
allowed  at  his  own  sweet  will,  as  but  too  often 
happens  in  the  Western  States,  to  the  great  detriment 
of  the  pupils,  to  change  them,  and  substitute  others. 
The  salaries  of  the  teachers,  paid  out  of  public  funds, 
vary  from  $500  to  $1,500.  In  the  city  of  Adelaide 
there  is  a  University  being  erected,  standing  on  a 
reserve  of  five  acres,  which  Government  has  endowed 
with  50,000  acres  of  land,  and  five  per  cent,  in  addi- 
tion on  all  sums  donated  to  the  Institution.  Already 
two  of  its  wealthy  citizens  have  each  donated  the 
sum  of  $100,000.  No  religious  tests  will  ~b&  required 
of  either  professors  or  students. 

The  city  of  Adelaide  is  especially  rich  in  churches. 
Indeed,  it  has  so  many,  that  whilst  Melbourne,  be- 
cause of  its  large  number  of  grand  public  buildings 


98  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

now  being  erected,  is  called  "  the  city  of  unfinished 
palaces,"  Adelaide  is  called  the  "city  of  churches." 
Its  churches  are  so  many,  and  so  large  and  beautiful, 
that  it  is  evident  that  the  people  are,  on  the  whole, 
both  well-to-do  and  pious. 

Through  the  kindness  of  the  Hon.  Philip  Santo, 
member  of  the  Legislative  Council  (Upper  Chamber), 
Bro.  Exley  had  an  introduction  to  the  Hon.  Thomas 
King,  Minister  of  Public  Education,  from  whom 
he  received  a  splendid  volume  on  the  History  of 
South  Australia,  just  issued  from  the  press,  and  with 
inside  pockets  and  maps,  and  gotten  up  in  the  best 
style  of  the  publisher's  art.  The  honorable  gentle- 
man was  exceedingly  kind,  and  seemed  glad  to  have 
the  opportunity  to  put  into  the  hand  of  a  stranger 
seeking  information  anything  belonging  to  his  de- 
partment. Under  his  administration,  educational  mat- 
ters are  not  likely  to  flag. 

With  Bro.  D.  Galle  as  cicerone,  we  visited  public 
institutions  of  all  kinds,  and  in  all  the  utmost  court- 
esy was  shown.  Going  into  the  Government  Land 
Office,  the  walls  hung  'round  with  maps  of  all  sec- 
tions of  country  open  to  settlement  —  large  maps 
attached  to  endless  canvas  bands,  passing  over  rollers 
—  we  had  the  entire  system  of  land  conveyancing  ex- 
plained by  the  chief  of  the  department.  The  beauty 
and  size"  of  the  public  buildings,  such  as  the  post- 
office,  town  hall,  law  courts,  banks,  museums,  schools, 
etc.,  is  such  that  to  describe  them  would  almost  sub- 
ject one  to  the  charge  of  "  Australian  blowing."  We 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  99 

have  traveled  a  good  deal,  and  seen  a  good  deal,  but 
have  not,  we  venture  to  say,  considering  the  years 
and  the  circumstances,  seen  anything  at  all  to  be  com- 
pared to  Melbourne  and  Adelaide.  Were  we  Aus- 
tralians, we  would  "blow"  and  not  be  ashamed  of  it; 
but  as  we  are  only  a  stray  Englishman  and  an  Anglo- 
American,  we  will  only  say  that,  whether  Great 
Britain  thinks  she  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  her 
stalwart  daughters  or  not,  the  daughters  have  abun- 
dant reason  to  be  proud  of  themselves. 

The  Botanic  gardens  of  Adelaide,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Dr.  R.  Schomburgk,  a  gentleman  who 
is  a  member  of  nearly  all  the  learned  societies  of 
Great  Britain  and  Continental  Europe,  are  almost 
indescribable  for  their  order,  extent  and  beauty.  In 
these  respects,  they  astonish  even  those  who  have  seen 
Central  Park,  New  York,  and  the  Kew  Gardens, 
London.  The  plants  in  these  gardens,  exclusive  of 
florists'  flowers,  are  nearly  9,000 ;  whilst  the  trees  are 
not  only  many  and  very  various,  but  so  arranged  as 
to  make  the  spot  one  of  the  loveliest  in  the  world. 
Here  there  is  everything  to  delight  the  eye  and 
gratify  the  most  cultivated  taste.  The  oleanders,  for 
size,  mass,  color  and  fragrance,  exceed  all  we  ever 
saw,  either  in  England,  Jersey,  or  elsewhere.  It  is, 
however,  a  very  curious  fact  that  the  beautiful  china- 
aster,  so  universally  —  and  deservedly  so  —  a  favorite 
all  over  the  West,  here  is  only  a  small  and  insignifi- 
cant flower.  And  the  chrysanthemum-aster  here  goes 
back  to  its  original  type. 


100  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  gardens  have  one  of  the  finest  of  palm-houses, 
and  filled  with  the  rarest  plants;  they  have  also  a 
splendid  museum,  ferneries,  and  houses  for  all  kinds 
of  tropical  growths.  They  have  also  a  large  aviary, 
for  the  purpose  of  acclimatizing  foreign  birds.  Of 
course  they  have  acclimatized  the  English  Sparrow, 
but,  like  the  Americans,  they  seem  to  have  been 
victimized  by  the  introduction  of  the  House  Sparrow, 
instead  of  the  Hedge  Sparrow,  and  consequently  the 
fruit  is  no  small  sufferer  from  its  depredations.  The 
gardens  also  contain  a  very  respectable  collection  of 
wild  animals,  gathered  from  nearly  all  points  of  the 
compass — many  of  them,  however,  peculiar  to  Aus- 
tralia. 

On  the  plains,  and  in  addition  to  all  the  ordi- 
nary kinds  of  fruit  common  to  England  and  the 
United  States,  there  are  grown,  and  in  great  perfec- 
tion, many  others,  such  as  figs,  lemons,  oranges,  nec- 
tarines, almonds,  olives  and  citrons. 

Before  leaving  Adelaide,  Bro.  Thomas  Magarey 
favored  us  with  a  ride  around  the  city,  and  then  took 
us  out  to  his  country  estate,  some  eight  miles  away,  to 
Enfield  House.  For  a  private  gentleman,  he  owns 
one  of  the  largest  telescopes  we  have  seen,  outside 
of  public  institutions,  antf  one  of  great  range  and 
power;  and  to  keep  it  fitting  company,  a  very  large 
library  also,  and  stocked  with  some  of  the  choicest 
books.  With  him,  religion  is  not  a  matter  of  form 
only;  he  is,  in  all  the  best  senses  of  the  words,  a 
godly  man.  He  seems  to  be  more  a  man  of  deeds 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  101 

than  many  wordsr  He  holds  views  on  John  iii.  5, 
perhaps  in  full  accord  with  what  is  called  Plymouth 
Brethrenism,  but  by  no  means  discarding  the  connec- 
tion between  baptism  and  remission  of  sins.  More, 
perhaps,  we  ought  not  to  say,  beyond  this :  that  his 
views  concerning  the  work  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  and 
the  believer's  possession  of  it,  whether  incorrect  or 
not,  are  very  far  removed  from  that  soul-benumbing 
theory,  that  there  is  nothing  but  the  Word  alone. 

We  were  conducted  all  over  his  well-arranged 
home,  fitted  up  with  extensive  bath-rooms,  for  every 
kind  of  bath,  except  salt  water,  that  being  some  miles 
distant.  From  the  top  of  his  house,  a  vast  expanse 
of  land  and  sea  is  visible.  His  gardens  have  in  them 
olive,  lemon,  orange,  with  a  large  variety  of  other 
trees,  amongst  them  the  Jcharob,  or  locust  tree  (cera- 
tonia  siliqua),  from  which  we  obtained  a  few  pods, 
such  as  the  Prodigal  would  fain  have  eaten  to  still  the 
cravings  of  his  hunger.  Bro.  Magarey  assured  us 
that  the  olive  would  yet  prove  to  be  of  great  commer- 
cial importance.  Our  visit,  with  its  kind  courtesies, 
will  not  soon  be  forgotten.  T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

ADELAIDE,  South  Australia,  Jan.  15, 1881. 


LETTER  IX. 

SOUTH    AUSTRALIA.  —  NATIVES    AND   CHURCHES. 

As  INTIMATED  in  our  last,  this  country,  South 
Australia,  is  destined  to  be  a  great  oil  producing 
country,  and  olives  are  planted  out  on  a  liberal  scale. 
The  oil  is  a  better  article  than  any  imported.  Some- 
times, however,  fierce  hot  winds  from  the  north  (all 
hot  winds  here  are  from  the  nortli),  sweep  over  the 
country,  exceedingly  trying,  but  not  so  prostrating  as 
some  of  our  hot  days  in  Nebraska,  when  the  fruit  of 
all  kinds,  on  the  side  exposed  to  them,  is  literally 
"  baked."  The  rain-fall  in  Adelaide  is  only  nineteen 
to  twenty-one  inches,  but  in  the  Mount  Lofty  Range, 
but  eight  miles  off,  the  rain  fall  is  40.677.  The  mean 
temperature  of  an  Adelaide  winter,  is  54°  to  55°. 
The  winter  months  are  June,  July  and  August.  The 
spring  months  of  September,  October  and  November, 
are  said  to  be  the  most  genial  months  in  the  year,  the 
average  temperature  being  about  60°  to  70°.  The 
general  average  production  of  wheat  in  the  whole 
region  cultivated  thus  far  in  South  Australia,  is  about 
nine  bushels  and  forty-eight  pounds  per  acre,  and  this 
for  the  past  twenty  years.  The  cost  of  production  is, 
however,  small,  and  the  quality  is  such  that  it  com- 
mands the  highest  price  in  the  English  market.  On 
(102) 


SOUTH  A  USTRAL1A.  103 

the  side  of  health,  South  Australia,  so  far  as  present 
statistics  show,  will  compare  favorably  with  any  coun- 
try in  Europe.  From  a  very  able  pamphlet  issued 
by  our  brother,  Dr.  Magarey,  it  is  evident  that, 
whilst  for  infants  under  twelve  months  old  the  death- 
rate  is  a  shade  heavier  than  in  the  most  favored 
European  country,  the  death-rate  for  adults  is  much 
less;  so  that,  as  Dr.  Magarey  says,  "the  Colony  af- 
fords a  good  chance  of  them  living  to  a  good  old  age." 
Thpre  are  about  eighteen  tribes  of  natives  living  in 
tli is  part  of  the  Colony,  none  of  them  numerous,  most 
of  them  dwindling  rapidly  away.  Some  of  them 
used  to  have  a  special  propensity  for  stealing  fat  peo- 
ple from  the  other  tribes  and  eating  them !  If  a  man 
had  a  fat  wife,  he  was  very  careful  never  to  leave  her 
unprotected,  lest  she  should  be  siezed  by  prowling 
cannibals.  Their  history  is  involved  in  great  ob- 
scurity. The  first  boat  which  they  saw  filled  them 
with  terror.  The  first  oxen  which  they  saw  —  two 
stray  ones  from  a  far-off  ranche  —  they  thought  were 
demons,  and  fled  from  them  in  the  wildest  fear,  call- 
ing them  by  the  expressive  name,  wundawityeri — 
that  is,  beings  with  spears  on  their  heads  —  and  ever 
since  they  have  called  all  cattle  wundawityeri  —  a  fine 
illustration  of  the  manner  in  which  new  names  get 
coined.  They  are  very  expert  in  throwing  the 
"  boomerang  "  and  "  kaike,"  or  reed-spear.  The  reed- 
spear  is  a  long,  slender,  tough  roH,  with  a  point  of 
hard,  heavy  wood,  about  a  foot  long.  They  throw  it 
with  a  taratye,  or  throwing-stick,  and  with  such  force 


104  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WOKLD. 

and  precision  that  it  has  been  known  to  kill  a  man  at 
nearly  300  feet,  and  passing  through  a  tough  bark 
shield  also.  The  natives  attribute  all  diseases  to 
witchcraft,  and  their  methods  of  cure  are  absurd 
enough.  The  doctor  will  sometimes  kneel  upon  the 
sick  man,  and  squeeze  him  until  he  groans  out  in 
agony  —  a  method  very  much  like  that  of  some  mus- 
cular M.  D.'s  among  even  white  men,  who  pound  and 
knead  their  victims  in  order  to  cure  them.  Often- 
times a  gray-bearded  old  father  will  execute  a  solemn 
dance  before  his  sick  son,  beating  time  to  a  kind  of 
cymbal,  called  a  tartengk,  and  utterly  divested  of  all 
clothing,  and  feel  that  he  has  done  wonders  towards 
the  recovery  of  the  patient. 

Missions  have  been  measurably  successful.  Still  it 
is  to  be  feared .  that  in  some  parts  of  this  vast  island 
continent  the  method  employed  to  make  them  Chris- 
tians has  been  that  recommended  by  an  old  shepherd. 
Two  natives  having  been  arrested  for  killing  another 
of  their  tribe,  the  old  Scotchman  suggested  that  they 
should  be  hanged;  but  who,  when  doubts  as  to  the 
justice  of  such  a  course,  in  view  of  their  manners  and 
customs,  were  expressed,  said :  "  I  dinna  think  that 
we  ought  to  care  much  aboot  their  manners  and  cus- 
toms at  a'.  We  ought  to  mak'  them  gie  up  a7  sich 
hathenish  practices.  Sure,  it's  our  dooty  to  do  a7  we 
run  to  mak'  Christians  o'  them.  Hang  them,  by  a' 
means,  sir;  I  say,  hang  them!  Sure,  it's  our  dooty 
to  mak'  Christians  o'  them!" 

The  first  time  that  some  of  them  gathered  into  the 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIAN  BLACKS. 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.    _  105 

Missionary's  house,  when  they  heard  the  clock  strike, 
they  listened  in  astonishment  and  fear,  and  then 
whispered,  "  What  him  say?"  and  then  rushed  in  fear 
out  of  the  house.  Infanticide  was  very  prevalent 
among  them,  until  the  missionary  gave  the  mothers 
rations  of  flour,  tea  and  sugar,  until  the  little  ones 
were  twelve  months  old,  and  the  practice  at  once 
came  to  an  end ;  but  before  that  the  babies  were 
put  to  death  as  soon  as  born,  and  sometimes  with 
horrible  cruelty.  We  saw  a  few  natives;  some 
of  them  are  really  good-looking;  they  are  very 
straight,  and  walk  with  all  the  dignity  belonging 
to  savage  nature,  and  receiving  favors  from  the 
whites,  receive  them  as  from  equals.  Many  of  their 
customs  are  of  a  very  barbarous  character,  with  many 
curious  rites  connected  with  them,  and  involving 
much  suffering,  but  of  their  origin  or  meaning  they 
can  give  no  account.  It  is  very  reasonably  supposed 
that  these  customs,  in  much  better  form  at  one  time, 
had  a  meaning  which  is  now  lost,  and  are  only 
observed  from  superstitious  motives,  and  that  the 
natives  have  descended  from  a  higher  state  of  civili- 
zation. The  weapons  which  they  possess  are  also  of 
a  kind  which  it  is  said  they  could  not  invent  in  their 
present  state.  The  "boomerang"  and  throwing- 
stick  are  both  of  this  kind.  The  "boomerang," 
when  first  heard  of,  suggested  a  new  idea  to  even 
scientific  men.  They  are  said  to  have  no  power  of 
invention,  and  the  power  of  calculation  only  in  a 
small  degree.  They  can  imitate  what  they  see  others 


106  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

do,  but  it  seems  impossible  for  them  to  originate  any- 
thing fresh,  or  even  to  improve  on  the  methods  they 
have  been  taught.  Everything  about  them  indicates 
that  man,  in  a  state  of  barbarism,  so  far  from  raising 
himself  into  a  state  of  civilization,  inevitably  and 
always  goes  down  towards  extinction.  The  intelligent 
among  the  South  Australians  speak  of  a  time  when 
their  people  were  more  numerous  than  now,  and  that 
their  numbers  had  been  decreasing  long  before  the 
advent  of  the  white  man  amongst  them.  The  first 
comers  possessed  so  much  of  civilization  that  they 
were  enabled  to  increase  in  numbers;  but  as  soon  as 
they  became  corrupt,  they  had  then  reached  a  point 
where  their  barbarism  rapidly  tended  to  their  extinc- 
tion. Savage  life  is  fatal  to  the  increase  of  the 
human  family.  It  is,  indeed,  most  strikingly  true  of 
all  the  savage  tribes  of  the  Colonies,  as  of  the  red 
men  of  the  West,  "If  ye  live  after  the  flesh,  ye 
shall  die."  Their  decrease  is  rapidly  hastened  since 
the  introduction  of  the  vices  of  the  white  man.  It 
does  not  seem  at  all  likely  that  if  man  had  been 
created  in  a  condition  as  low,  or  lower  than  that 
of  these  aborigines,  that  he  ever  could  have  arisen 
out  of  it.  What  is  very  remarkable  about  them,  is 
this :  their  language,  though  very  limited,  possessing 
not  more  than  about  4,000  words,  is  yet  a  very  highly 
organized  language,  and  remarkable  for  its  complex- 
ity of  structure,  the  number  of  its  inflections,  and  the 
precision  with  which  it  can  be  used.  Those  who, 
have  studied  it,  look  upon  it,  not  as  a  language  in 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  107 

process  of  formation,  but  as  rather  the  remnant  of  a 
noble  tongue,  now  becoming  extinct.  It  has  six 
cases  in  each  declension  of  nouns  and  pronouns,  and 
a  double  set  of  pronouns  for  the  sake  of  euphony  and 
expression.  Verbs  are  regularly  formed  from  roots 
consisting  of  one  vowel  and  two  consonants,  or  two 
vowels  and  three  consonants.  They  possess  the 
faculty  of  readily  learning  other  languages,  but  have 
no  power  to  invent  language.  Their  pronouns  have 
three  numbers,  the  singular,  dual  and  plural.  Not 
only  have  they  all  the  cases  we  have,  but  several 
others  in  addition.  The  dual  number,  in  some  of  the 
declensions  of  nouns,  has  eight  cases,  and  all  regularly 
formed.  Surely,  a  barbarous  people  is  utterly  un- 
equal to  all  this,  by  any  process  of  evolution  yet  dis-, 
covered.  There  is  a  very  curious  and  very  striking 
similarity  between  many  native  words  and  some  Eng- 
lish or  other  words,  both  in  sound  and  sense,  as,  for 
instance:  the  words  Dlomari,  the  gloaming;  Marti,  for 
mortar;  Limgari,  the  tongue;  Napi,  nupta  —  a  spouse; 
Ngo,  go.  There  is  no  evidence  whatever,  notwith- 
standing the  character  of  their  language,  to  indicate 
that  of  themselves  they  could  advance  from  barbar- 
ism to  civilization.  Some  facts  would  seem  to  indi- 
cate that  even  white  men  going  among  them,  but 
without  any  set  purpose  to  either  seek  to  elevate 
them  or  to  take  care  of  their  own  higher  culture, 
would  be  far  more  likely  to  become  barbarized  them- 
selves than  influential  for  the  elevation  of  the  na- 
tives. Bro.  T.  Magarey  told  us  of  a  white  man  who, 


108  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

having  strayed  into  the  bush,  and  supposed  to  be  lost, 
after  some  fifteen  years  turned  up  again.  He  had 
been  living  amongst  the  natives,  and  was  almost  as 
black  as  themselves,  and,  whilst  able  to  understand 
English  when  he  heard  it,  found  it  difficult  to  speak 
it.  One  day,  as  a  herdsman  was  tending  his  cattle, 
he  saw  this  man,  coming  timidly  and  stealthily  along, 
and  at  once  called  to  his  assistant  to  bring  him 
the  gun.  The  poor  fellow  understood  that,  and  lift- 
ing up  his  hands-,  stammered  out,  in  the  best  English 
he  could  command,  "Don't  shoot!  me  British  obs- 
jeck." 

During  our  stay  in  Adelaide,  we  were  domiciled 
at  the  beautiful  home  of  the  Hon.  Philip  Santo. 
Every  kindness  was  shown  to  us,  and  the  best  of  care 
taken  of  us.  Bro.  Coop  addressed  the  churches  of 
Adelaide,  Hindmarsh  and  Norwood,  on  Sunday-school 
work  and  missions.  Bro.  Exley  addressed  the  same 
churches  on  other  themes,  and  to  audiences  it  was  a 
joy  to  look  upon.  Bro.  Santo  is  one  of  the  elders  of 
the  church  in  Grote  street.  During  our  stay  here, 
the  brethren  held  a  grand  tea-meeting  in  Grote  street 
church,  to  give  us  welcome,  and  brethren  from  a 
distance  came  to  participate  in  it.  Letfers,  also, 
from  some  who  could  not  be  present,  were  read,  giv- 
ing us  welcome.  Bro.  and  Sister  George  Green  well 
were  both  present,  and  he  gave  us  one  of  the  most 
touchingly  beautiful  addresses  to  which  we  ever  lis- 
tened. Of  course  we  were  called  upon  to  contri- 
bute our  share  of  the  talking,  and  Bro.  Exley  fin- 


PHILIP  SANTO. 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  109 

ished  his  speech  by  singing  them  his  favorite  song  — 

"Oh!  the  good  we  all  may  do, 
While  the  days  are  passing  by." 

The  churches  in  all  the  colonies  seem  to  be  very 
partial  to  tea-meetings,  and  a  most  enjoyable  affair 
they  make  them.  We  have  attended  three  of  them. 

The  church  in  Grote  street,  Adelaide,  numbers 
about  450  members,  and  all  living  in  peace;  the 
church  in  Hindmarsh  about  300,  and  the  church  in 
Norwood  about  seventy.  These  last  two  are  both  in 
the  suburbs  close  by.  Besides,  there  is  still  a  fourth 
in  Adelaide,  of  about  sixty  members,  if  we  remember 
rightly,  in  which  Dr.  Vercoe  is  a  very  earnest  and 
active  member,  a  gentleman  whose  medical  reputation 
stands  very  high,  and  once  a  member  of  the  church 
at  Chelsea,  London. 

Then  there  is  still  a  fifth  church,  with  a  very 
respectable  meeting-house,  presided  over  by  Bro. 
Hussey,  a  gentleman  baptized  many  years  ago  by 
Bro.  Campbell.  He  is  an  earnest  believer  in,  and  as 
earnest  a  pleader  for,  the  doctrine  of  the  near  ap- 
proach of  the  Second  Advent  of  the  Lord  from 
heaven.  There  is  a  constant  interchange  of  preach- 
ers, I  believe,  amongst  them  all.  The  churches  .'ill 
have  large  Sunday-schools,  except  the  last  one.  That 
at  Hindmarsh  numbers  about  300,  with  a  Bible-class 
of  young  men  of  about  thirty  members,  and  another 
of  young  women  of  about  the  same  number.  Con- 
nected with  this  church,  they  have  a  large  and,  we 


110  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

think,  the  best  arranged  Sunday-school  hall  we  have 
seen.  The  great  hall  of  the  Sunday-school  will  seat 
between  300  and  400,  and  has  nine  class-rooms  be- 
sides, five  down  one  side,  and  four  on  the  other  side 
of  the  hall.  Bro.  Smith  .is  the  evangelist,  and  Dr. 
Kidner,  well  known  to  many  in  England,  one  of  the 
elders.  There  are  several  other  churches  in  the 
colonies,  and  some  of  them  have  good,  substantial 
church  buildings. 

The  population  of  the  colony  does  not  exceed  260,- 
000,  yet  our  brethren,  are  one  to  every  one  hundred 
and  seventy-five. 

Adelaide,  with  its  suburbs,  has  a  population  of 
about  40,000.  Our  brethren  number  amongst  them 
about  900,  or  one  to  every  44,  nearly.  In  London 
our  membership  is  probably  not  more  than  one  in 
every  10,000;  in  New  York,  about  one  in  every 
5,000;  in  Birmingham,  perhaps  one  in  every  1,200, 
and  in  Cincinnati,  about  one  in  every  400.  Some  of 
these  are  only  conjectures,  but  the  disparity  between 
the  membership  in  the  colonies,  and  the  best  of 
the  churches  in  either  England  or  America,  in  not 
small. 

For  the  most  part,  while  faithful  to  the  traditions 
of  the  apostles,  they  are  not  heresy  hunters,  and  have 
but  little  sympathy  with  Procrustean  methods.  Our 
intercourse  with  them,  will,  we  trust,  prove  fruitful 
of  good.  It  has  been  very  pleasant,  and  whilst  the 
claims  of  homes,  so  far  away,  render  our  departure 
necessary,  we  shall  leave  with  regret. 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIA.  Ill 

On  the  22nd  of  January,  Bro.  Coop  will  sail  for 
England  in  the  "Garonne,"  of  the  Orient  Line,  leav- 
ing Bro.  Exley  to  labor  here  a  little  while  longer. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

ADELAIDE,  South  Australia,  Jan.  20, 1881. 


LETTER  X. 

TASMANIA,    PAST   AND    PRESENT. 

OUR  LAST  letter  was  posted  to  you  just  before  Bro. 
Coop  went  on  board  the  Garonne,  of  the  splendid 
Orient  Line  of  steamships.  Bro.  Santo,  myself,  and 
a  few  others,  went  down  to  the  Semaphore  to  see  him 
embark.  We  saw  him  safely  on  board,  and  then  our 
little  steamer  turned  away,  and,  owing  to  the  prox- 
imity of  another  ship,  we  lost  sight  of  him  almost  in 
a  moment  —  Bro.  Coop  entering  upon  his  long  voy- 
age, and  myself  to  return  to  Adelaide,  to  labor  for 
two  Lord's  days  more,  and  then  to  embark  for  Mel- 
bourne, and  thence  to  my  far  distant  home,  probably 
by  way  of  Suez,  Turin  and  London. 

Since  the  injury  sustained  in  San  Francisco,  the 
journey  through  Palestine  became  more  and  more  an 
undertaking  it  did  not  seem  prudent  to  enter  upon; 
and  so  on  this  account,  together  with  other  important 
matters,  with  unspeakable  reluctance  I  gave  it  up. 
Well,  notwithstanding  that,  my  face  is  "steadily  set 
towards"  the  New  Jerusalem  and  the  painless,  sor- 
rowless  land  ;  and  so  I  joyfully  sing  — 

Yonder  's  my  house  and  portion  fair; 
My  treasure  and  my  heart  are  there, 

And  my  abiding  home. 
(112) 


TASMANIA.  113 

Returning  to  Adelaide,  I  spent  two  more  Lord's 
days  there,  and  preached  about  five  more  discourses. 

On  Monday,  January  31,  in  company  with  Bro. 
Sunto,  I  left  Adelaide,  embarking  on  board  the 
Claude  Hamilton,  for  Melbourne,  and  a  more  com- 
fortless voyage  could  hardly  have  been.  The  decks 
were  literally  impassable,  from  their  being  covered 
with  the  company  and  material  of  Cole's  American 
Circus. 

I  spent  four  more  Lord's  days  in  Melbourne, 
preaching  in  some  seven  different  places.  The  num- 
ber of  churches  in  Melbourne  and  suburbs,  all  of 
which  are  really  a  part  of  this  great  city,  is  a  splendid 
testimony  to  the  energy  and  untiring  perseverance 
and  self-sacrifice  of  our  brethren  here.  If  there  is 
anything  to  be  compared  with  it  in  either  Great 
Britain  or  the  United  States,  I  have  never  heard  of 
it.  I  will  endeavor  to  give  a  few  items,  which  I 
trust  will  be  of  real  interest  to  all  churches,  and  help 
to  stimulate  them  to  love  and  good  works. 

There  are  some  seven  churches  in  the  city  and  im- 
mediate outskirts,  besides  many  others  at  short  dis- 
tances. Five  of  the  seven  churches  in  the  city 
occupy  their  own  church  buildings,  which  are  about 
$36,000  in  value,  and  possess  a  seating  capacity  for 
about  3,000  people.  They  all  have  flourishing  Sun- 
day-schools, with  over  a  thousand  scholars,  and  a 
proportionate  number  of  teachers.  Four  of  the 
churches  employ  an  evangelist  each,  all  the  time  — 
Brethren  Haley,  Bates,  Colburne  and  Yates. 


114  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  church  meeting  lately  in  the  Unity  Hall,  have 
rented  the  large  and  very  handsome  church  edifice 
called  the  John  Knox  Church,  formerly  occupied  by 
the  Presbyterians.  This  church,  considered  by  some 
to  be  too  narrow,  is  one  from  which  broader  churches 
may  learn  divine  lessons  in  many  directions.  It  is 
the  mother  of  all  the  rest,  if  I  am  rightly  advised.  It 
has  no  evangelist  at  present,  but  is  seeking  to  obtain 
one.  It  paid  about  $15.00  per  week  towards  the  ex- 
penses of  the  Sunday  evening  services  in  the  Music 
Academy.  It  sustained  an  evangelist  at  Footscray. 
Its  care  for  its  poor  and  sick,  I  believe,  has  no  par- 
allel amongst  the  brethren,  so  far  as  known  to  me.  It 
is  very  strict  on  the  communion  question,  has  no  or- 
gan, and  in  church  worship  has  the  open  platform, 
but  under  the  presidency  of  men  of  sound  wisdom 
and  judgment;  and  it  is  foremost  in  assisting  the  good 
work  in  other  places.  It  is  a  church  with  a  large 
heart  and  an  open  hand.  The  Lord  grant  it  a  very 
great  future.  Bro.  Haley  preached  at  the  opening  of 
the  new  premises,  and  had  a  fine  audience.  Every 
church  in  all  the  colonies,  no  matter  whether  it  has  an 
evangelist  or  not,  meets  every  Lord's  day  to  break 
bread.  This  is  universal,  without  a  single  exception. 

Before  leaving  Melbourne,  accompanied  by  Bro. 
Santo,  quite  a  number  of  us  rode  out  to  a  little  coun- 
try village  called  Broad  Meadows,  where  we  have  a 
little  church  of  faithful,  earnest  and  pious  disciples. 
Out  of  their  very  moderate  means,  they  have  just 
completed  a  very  nice  little  place  of  worship.  Our 


TASMANIA.  115 

visit  was  a  real  treat  to  them  and  to  us.  The  social 
tea-meeting  was  a  success,  and  the  after-meeting,  with 
Bro.  Santo  in  the  chair,  gave  joy  and  gladness  to  all, 
and  will  not  be  very  soon  forgotten.  The  country 
around  Broad  Meadows  is  like  a  bit  of  Nebraska  — 
only  not  so  good.  The  public  houses,  on  the  high- 
way-side in  the  country,  are  so  many  as  to  compel 
observation.  Nothing  but  a  very  large  and  con- 
stantly moving  population  can  give  them  more  than 
a  very  moderate  support. 

Before  leaving  Melbourne,  I  was  again  called  upon 
to  preach  for  Bro.  Haley,  and  selected  for  my  sub- 
ject, "  The  Final  Resurrection."  After  showing  the 
possibility,  probability,  certainty,  agency  and  extent, 
in  order  to  impress  upon  the  minds  of  all  how  easy  it 
is  for  Him  who  is  the  Resurrection  and  the  Life,  to 
bring  out  of  these  earthly,  natural  bodies,  bodies 
incorruptible,  immortal  and  spiritual,  I  made  use  of 
an  imaginary  handful  of  common  garden  soil  as  a  nat- 
ural body,  and  then,  after  apparently  holding  it  up 
and  crumbling  it  to  dust,  held  up  a  magnificent 
bunch  of  flowers,  furnished  me  by  Bro.  and  Sister 
Da  vies.  I  spoke  of  that  as  but  the  spiritual  body, 
brought  forth  from  the  formless  dust,  and  asked, 
How  had  the  Great  Architect  built  up  that?  How 
had  the  Great  Artist  painted  that?  How  had  the 
Great  Chemist  perfumed  that?  And  emphasized  the 
thought  that  He  who  could  transform  the  dust  of  the 
ground  by  the  kiss  of  the  sun — and  the  mysterious 
forces  of  earth  and  air  —  into  such  unspeakable 


116  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

beauty,  could  be  at  no  loss  in  the  Great  Day  of 
Resurrection,  to  bring  forth  from  these  already  beau- 
tiful natural  bodies  of  ours,  bodies  glorious,  power- 
ful, immortal,  incorruptible  and  spiritual.  The  im- 
pression made  will  last  all  through  this  life.  This 
was  my  last  discourse  in  Melbourne,  save  that  I  lec- 
tured once,  on  Milton,  Cromwell  and  their  times. 

On  Tuesday,  March  1,  I  embarked  on  board  the 
Mangana,  for  Hobart,  being  persuaded  by  the  breth- 
ren to  visit  the  church  there  for  six  weeks,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  opening  of  a  new  church  building.  For 
once,  the  sea  trip  of  some  twenty-four  hours,  from 
Melbourne  to  entering  the  river  Tamar,  Tasmania, 
was  enjoyable,  the  sea  being  calm  and  smooth.  We 
have  land  in  sight  most  of  the  time  as  we  cross  Bass' 
Strait.  Little  is  seen  save  birds  and  porpoises,  and 
now  and  then  an  albatross  with  wide- spread  wings, 
ten  feet  from  tip  to  tip,  balancing  itself  as  it  swiftly 
skims  over  the  restless  waters  —  sailing  away  in  the 
distance,  or  circling  'round  about,  as  if  in  sport,  then 
returning  to  the  ship,  and  passing  it  with  the  swiftness 
of  an  arrow,  albeit  we  are  going  from  ten  to  twelve 
miles  an  hour !  Gannets,  or  the  Solan  goose,  are 
seen  riding  fearlessly  on  the  waters.  They  are  about 
the  size  of  a  common  goose,  but  with  a  much  greater 
stretch  of  wing.  Besides,  almost  countless  numbers 
of  mutton-birds  are  seen  skimming  the  sea  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  flight  of  these  birds,  or  some  other, 
which  go  in  vast  numbers,  and  so  near  to  the  surface 
of  the  water,  has  more  than  once  led  to  the  convic- 


TASMANIA.  117 

tion  that  the  beholder  was  really  looking  upon  the 
movements  of  the  sea-serpent. 

Entering  the  river  Tamar,  a  splendid  stream,  we 
have  a  river  journey  of  forty  miles  through  very  fine 
scenery,  until  we  reach  the  city  of  Launceston.  In 
Tasmania,  the  counties,  cities  and  rivers,  are  nearly 
all  named  after  places  and  rivers  in  England.  It 
is  a  matter  for  never-ceasing  wonder  how,  in  these 
far-off  regions,  all  the  cities,  without  exception,  have 
put  up  such  a  large  number  of  such  large,  solid 
and  beautiful  public  buildings  of  all  kinds,  as  are 
to  be  seen  in  these  colonies.  Here  there  are  the 
counties  of  Dorset  and  Devon,  a  Cornwall,  Dor- 
chester, Exeter,  Ilfracombe  and  Launceston,  at  the 
head  of  the  Tamar.  The  Great  Colony  of  Victoria 
and  the  city  of  Melbourne  were  founded  by  explorers 
from  Launceston  in  1835.  Launceston  has  some  10,- 
000  inhabitants,  and  for  these  it  has  erected  thirteen 
large,  solid  and  handsome  churches.  It  has  also  a 
fine  Town  Hall,  with  organ  to  match.  All  the  streets 
and  side-paths  are  good.  Among  its  public  build- 
ings and  institutions  it  boasts  a  Workman's  Club.  It 
provides  not  only  a  well-stocked  library  and  a  table 
well  supplied  with  papers,  but  amusements  also.  It 
is  managed  entirely  by  the  artisans  themselves.  It 
has  a  lecture-hall,  piano,  reading-room  —  a  billiard- 
room,  bagatello-room,  and  others  also.  Chess  and 
draughts  are  favorite  games,  as  also  skittles.  Smoking 
is  allowed  everywhere,  except  in  the  rooms  devoted  to 
the  library  and  reading. 


118  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

It  is  nearly  eighty  years  since  Tasmania  was  num- 
bered among  the  British  Colonies,  but  it  does  not  yet 
count  more  than  about  120,000  inhabitants.  Hobart 
is  the  capital  city,  with  about  25,000  people.  It 
is  built  on  the  river  Derwent,  and  for  beauty  of  situ- 
ation may  fairly  challenge  at  least  all  the  colonies  put 
together.  It  is  surrounded  with  magnificent  moun- 
tains, the  principal  of  which  is  Mt.  Wellington,  about 
4,200  feet  above  the  sea.  The  purple  mist  which 
covers  it  like  a  beautiful  veil,  is  a  never-ceasing 
delight  to  look  upon.  Bro.  Carr,  who  is  remem- 
bered, and  esteemed  and  loved  for  his  work's  sake 
here,  and  Bro.  Gore,  with  others,  have  had  the  rich 
pleasure  of  toiling  to  its  summit,  from  which,  I  am 
told,  one  of  the  most  glorious  of  visions  of  mountain, 
valley,  city  and  sea,  is  to  be  seen.  I  am  not  equal  to 
the  ascent,  and  so  feast  my  love  of  the  grand  and 
beautiful,  by  looking  to  the  nights  to  which  I  can  not 
ascend.  The  climate  of  Tasmania  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  world,  and  the  death-rate,  at  least  amongst 
children,  is  less  than  almost  anywhere  else  in  the 
world.  Th.e  river  is  filled  with  vessels  of  all  sorts, 
and  quite  an  amount  of  business  is  done  here  in  Tin, 
which  is  found  and  worked  in  large  quantities;  and 
also  in  the  precious  metals.  Farm  interests  are  not 
in  the  most  flouishing  condition  here.  The  popula- 
tion of  the  colony  is  only  as  stated  above,  not  more 
than  120,000.  Yet  they  possess  nearly  2,000,000 
sheep;  of  cattle,  130,000  head,  and  25,000  horses,  and 
about  40,000  pigs.  The  quantity  of  wool  exported 


TASMANIA.  119 

in  1879-'80,  was  8,333,726  pounds  —  value,  $2,250,- 
000.  In  1879,  there  was  gold  found  to  the  amount 
of  $1,200,000.  The  amount  of  tin  found  is  at  the 
rate  of  $1,000,000  per  year.  Splendid  fruits  of  many 
kinds  are  exported  in  large  quantities,  for  so  small  a 
population,  and  all  the  small  grains,  which  are  of 
very  fine  quality. 

Education  is  compulsory  at  ages  ranging  from 
seven  to  fourteen  years,  and  is  unsectarian  in  char- 
acter, and  large  encouragement  is  given  to  the  higher 
education  of  all  who  care  to  possess  it,  by  a  system  of 
exhibitions  at  the  best  private  schools,  and  by  annual 
examinations  for  the  degree  of  Associate  of  Arts, 
under  the  direction  of  the  Council  of  Education. 
Two  scholarships,  of  a  thousand  dollars  each,  tenable 
for  four  years  at  a  British  University,  are  awarded 
annually  by  the  Council  of  Associates  of  Arts,  on 
passing  a  prescribed  examination.  Tl^  land,  however, 
seems  to  be  hampered  by  unwise  restrictions,  and  from 
which,  at  present,  we  in  the  Far  West  are  free.  There 
is,  without  fair  question,  however,  a  great  future 
before  Tasmania,  and  all  these  Australian  colonies. 

One  of  the  saddest  of  all  the  facts  connected 
with  this  Island  of  Tasmania,  is  the  complete  ex- 
tinction of  the  native  tribes  —  not  one  being  noio 
alive!  William  Lannae,  the  last  man,  and  Truga- 
nini,  the  last  woman,  are  both  dead.  In  this  letter, 
however,  I  can  say  nothing  concerning  the  native 
races,  but  promise  another  as  soon  as* I  can  find  the 
time  to  write,  which  probably  will  not  be  until  I  can 


120  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

once  more  embark  for  the  home  that  seems  such  a 
long  way  off.  I  will  fill  up  the  remainder  of  my 
space  by  a  short  account  of  my  visit  to  this  city  of 
Hobart,  where  I  am  at  the  present  writing.  Arriv- 
ing here  on  the  2nd  of  March  last,  in  the  evening,  I 
was  met  by  Bros.  Smith  and  White,  and  conducted  to 
very  comfortable  apartments. 

The  brethren  here  are  about  120,  all  of  the  hard- 
working class,  with  a  few  of  the  business  community 
amongst  them.  The  energy,  self-sacrifice  and  abound- 
ing faith  of  these  brethren,  if  imitated  by  all  our 
brethren,  would  carry  victory  at  all  points.  They 
have  just  completed  a  very  substantial  brick  church, 
with  stone  facings,  plain,  but  very  neat,  and  capable 
of  seating  400  persons.  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  open  this 
church  building  for  Christian  worship  on  Lord's  day, 
the  6th  of  March.  The  audiences  were  large,  and 
apparently  deeply  interested.  On  Tuesday  following, 
we  had  a  public  Tea  Meeting,  at  which  more  than 
300  persons  sat  down  ;  the  place  was  beautifully  fes- 
tooned with  ivy,  ferns  and  flowers,  with  a  large  num- 
ber of  flowering  plants  tastefully  arranged  on  stands, 
and  which  were  kindly  furnished  by  various  friends. 
The  Tea,  singing  by  the  choir  of  young  brethren  and 
sisters,  with  the  various  addresses,  made  a  most  en- 
joyable evening.  The  brethren  here  are  close  com- 
munion, but  not  heresy  hunters.  They  preach  the 
gospel,  using  the  talent  they  have  in  the  church,  have 
had  but  little  evangelistic  help,  have  the  mutual 
teaching,  doing  the  best  they  can,  and  even  though 


TASMANIA.  121 

they  have  been  a  long  time  without  evangelistic  help, 
they  have  never  omitted  to  break  bread  in  the  morn- 
ing, or  preach  the  gospel  in  the  evening  as  best  they 
could.  They  have  had  no  small  burden  of  difficul- 
ties to  bear  from  various  causes,  but  they  have  strug- 
gled on  to  something  like  a  position  from  which  they 
may  move  on  to  victory.  It  is  almost  the  only  church 
of  our  brethren  in  the  Island,  and  no  finer  field  could 
the  American  Board  of  Missions  select  than  this.  In 
about  one  year  the  cause  in  Hobart  would  be  self- 
supporting —  that  is,  if  the  preacher  were  reasonable 
in  his  requirements,  and  this  he  would  be  sure  to  be, 
if  a  true  missionary  spirit  filled  his  heart. 

At  the  opening  of  our  first  evening  meeting,  a 
most  untoward  event  took  place,  throwing  a  heavy 
gloom  over  the  church.  Scarcely  had  the  first  hymn 
been  announced,  v/hen  a  large,  fleshy  lady  fell  sudden- 
ly sick,  and  by  the  time  she  was  lifted  out  of  the  meet- 
ing-house, into  the  porch,  she  was  dead.  On  the 
second  Lord's  day,  at  nearly  the  close  of  the  evening 
service,  another  lady  was  carried  out  in  a  dangerous 
condition,  but  she  fortunately  rallied  again  in  a  short 
time.  These  two  events  filled  us  all  with  a  good  de- 
gree of  fear. 

During  the  five  weeks  I  have  labored  here  —  and  I 
came  not  knowing  even  one  person  in  the  church  or 
city  —  it  has  been  my  unspeakable  gladness  to  lend 
down  into  the  waters  of  baptism  eleven  persons,  and 
a  spirit  of  inquiry  has  been  awakened  in  others.  Bro. 
Moysey,  kindly  given  up  by  the  church  at  Chelten- 


122  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

ham,  Victoria,  is  here  to  succeed  me.  He  has  come 
for  three  months,  so  that  the  work  may  have  some  one 
to  carry  it  on.  Bro.  Moysey  is  an  able  man,  and  is 
much  beloved  and  esteemed  here  for  his  work's  sake. 
The  church  at  Cheltenham  not  only  gives  up  Bro. 
Moysey  to  come  here,  but,  with  rare  self-sacrifice  and 
loving  devotion  to  the  Lord  Jesus,  also  pays  him  just 
the  same  as  if  he  were  still  laboring  for  them,  the 
churches  of  Melbourne  finding  from  its  local  breth- 
ren supplies  to  fill  his  place.  Here  is  a  grand  way  in 
which  in  many  places  amongst  us  at  home,  real  mis- 
sionary work  can  be  done.  May  some  such  work  be 
largely  done  for  his  name.  I  came  here  a  stranger, 
but  that  mysterious  power  which  is  in  the  gospel,  has 
made  me  feel  so  much  at  home,  has  linked  me  to  so 
many  brethren  and  sisters,  that  whilst  home  tugs  hard 
at  the  heart,  it  is  hard  to  leave,  and  I  feel  a  heavy 
sorrow.  Since  coming  here,  I  have  been  the  kindly 
and  even  tenderly  cared-for  guest  of  Bro.  and  Sister 
Bradley  and  their  gentle  daughter.  Of  all  such,  in 
view  of  .their  work  of  faith  and  labor  of  love,  it  may 
be  most  truly  said,  that  "they  are  redeemed  unto 
God."  I  have  worked,  since  coming  here,  almost 
without  intermission,  but  believe  that  I  leave  here, 
physically,  a  stronger  man. 

I  have  no  space  to  tell  of  the  beauties  of  the  Fern 
Tree  Bower,  some  five  miles  distant  from  Hobart,  and 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  monarch  Mount  Welling- 
ton. Through  the  kind  courtesy  of  Bro.  Speakman, 
I  was  taken  by  his  daughters  (the  youngest  of  whom, 


TASMANIA.  123 

Miss  Sarah  Speakman,  I  have  baptized)  to  see  it. 
Strange  indeed  are  the  growths  of  these  far-away 
lands;  and  a  few  leaves  of  the  Fern  Tree  I  bring 
away  with  me  as  mementoes  of  my  delightful  visit. 

The  river  Derwent  is  really  an  arm  of  the  sea,  and 
can  afford  ample  anchorage-room  for  half  the  fleets  of 
the  world.  A  trip  in  the  little  steamer  to  Kangaroo 
Point,  and  a  stroll  on  the  beach,  listening  to  "  what 
the  waves  are  saying,"  is  wonderfully  refreshing,  after 
weeks  of  almost  ceaseless  toil. 

At  Hobart,  also,  as  in  nearly  every  city  we  have 
seen,  there  are  splendid  public  gardens,  and  perfectly 
free  to  the  public;  also  a  very  extensive  Public 
Library,  in  which  the  visitor  has  nothing  to  do  but 
take  down  from  the  shelves  any  volume  he  desires,  sit 
and  read  at  his  leisure,  and  replace  it  himself,  or  leave 
it  for  the  Librarian  to  replace.  If  there  is  any  vol- 
ume desired  which  the  visitor  can  not  find,  the  court- 
eous Librarian  will  at  once  get  it  for  him.  Alongside 
the  library-rooms  there  is  also  a  large  reading-room, 
and  the  best  papers  and  quarterlies  and  monthlies  in 
the  world  lie  on  the  tables.  Reading-rooms  and 
Library  are  always  well  attended  by  both  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  In  addition  to  these  there  is  also  a  large 
Parliamentary  Library,  of  some  8,000  volumes  of 
choicest  selection.  This  also  is  free.  Into  this  I 
often  went,  hunting  up  items  of  interest  concerning 
the  now  extinct  native  races.  Hobart  also  has  a  very 
fine  Museum.  I  think  I  can  safely  say  that  in  these 
directions,  in  this  out-of-the-way  corner  of  the  world, 


124  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

larger  privileges  were  within  my  reach  during  the  six 
weeks  of  my  visit,  than  ever  fell  within  my  reach  in 
twenty  years'  residence  in  the  West. 

On  Saturday  morning,  at  8  o'clock,  April  16th,  I 
bade  adieu  to  Hobart,  and  waving  good-bye  to  friends 
known  only  for  a 'short  time,  but  not  to  be  forgotten 
again,  our  train  moved  off,  and  in  six  hours  I  was 
once  more  in  Launceston.  Embarking  on  board  the 
Mangana,  on  Lord's  day  morning,  at  8  o'clock,  after 
an  exceedingly  stormy  and  distressing  voyage  of 
twenty-four  hours,  I  am  once  more  safely  in  Mel- 
bourne, but  too  late  to  obtain  a  berth  on  the  Orient, 
which  sails  to-morrow  for  London.  Visiting  Bro. 
Haley,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  for  the  first  time 
Bro.  Gore,  who  has  just  arrived  from  America,  and  is 
looking  quite  well.  Through  the  courtesy  of  Mr. 
Posisti,  the  member  for  Richmond  in  the  Victorian 
Parliament,  I  was  shown  all  over  the  houses  of  Par- 
liament and  the  very  extensive  library  connected  with  - 
them,  and  then  conducted  to  the  roof  of  the  build- 
ings, from  which  one  of  the  most  extensive  views  of 
the  city  and  far  distant  country  is  obtained.  The 
buildings  themselves  are  so  extensive  and  so  magnifi- 
cent, that  to  describe  them  is  utterly  beyond  my 
power.  Arriving  in  Melbourne  too  late  to  secure  a 
berth,  I  have  consented  to  go,  at  the  urgent  desire 
and  request  of  Bro.  Haley,  up  to  Sydney,  New  South 
Wales,  to  help  the  brethren  there  for  two  months,  be- 
fore embarking  for  home;  that  is,  if  the  brethren 
there  desire  my  help  when  I  get  there.  They  have 


TASMANIA.  125 

urgently  solicited  Bro.  Haley  to  send  them  some 
one,  and  so  I  am  about  to  go  and  visit  this  other 
great  colony.  Concerning  New  South  Wales  and  the 
churches,  I  will  write  (D.  v.)  in  due  season. 

A  letter  has  just  reached  Bro.  Haley  from  Bro. 
Coop,  posted  at  Cairo.  He  was  quite  well,  and,  from 
what  he  says,  had  a  most  interesting  time  on  the  voy- 
age, preaching  several  times  and  organizing  a  de- 
bating society,  the  subject  for  debate  being,  "  The 
Colonies  of  Australia,  or  the  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica—  which  are  the  most  desirable  fields  for  those 
who  are  seeking  for  new  homes?"  Of  all  this  you 
will  hear  in  due  time,  perhaps  even  before  you  re- 
ceive this. 

I  will  only  further  say  in  this  letter  that,  the  Lord 
willing,  I  shall  stay  not  longer  than  eight  weeks 
in  Sydney,  and  then  embark  for  home,  going  around 
by  way  of  Suez,  London  and  New  York,  and,  if 
prospered  on  the  journey,  reach  home*  about  the 
middle  of  August,  resting  a  day  or  two  at  Davenport, 
Long  Grove,  and  West  Liberty,  Iowa,  on  the  road. 

HENRY  EXLEY. 

MELBOURNE,  Australia,  April  13, 1881. 


LETTER  XL 

THE    NATIVE   TASMANIANS. 

LEAVING  Tasmania  before  I  could  find  time  to 
write  out  a  few  items  concerning  the  native  races,  I 
now  shall  try  to  do  so.  One  of  my  first  questions, 
after  seating  myself  in  the  cars,  when  going  to  Ho- 
bart,  was  about  the  native  Tasmanians,  and  my  sur- 
prise was  great  indeed,  when  told  that  the  last  one 
of  the  entire  race,  Truganini,  a  woman,  was  dead, 
having  died  but  some  five  years  ago. 

When  the  island  was  discovered,  in  1642,  Nov. 
24th,  by  Abel  Jans  Tasman,  the  natives,  whilst  never 
very  numerous,  yet  numbered,  it  is  supposed,  about 
7,000,  of  all  the  tribes  together.  As  I  stood  by  the 
bedside  of  an  old  settler,  near  eighty  years  of  age, 
and  one  who  had  been  in  the  country  more  than  fifty 
years,  I  asked  him  to  tell  me  how  the  natives  were 
treated  by  the  white  men;  and  as  he  slowly  shook  his 
flying  head,  he  very  mournfully  said,  "Very  bad;  oh, 
very  bad ! "  Whilst  it  is  fresh  in  my  thoughts,  let 
me  say  that  this  old  man,  whom  it  fell  to  my  lot  to 
consign  to  the  grave,  and  one  of  the  most  trustful  and 
triumphant  of  Christians,  seems  to  me  a  far  more 
wonderful  case  of  long  abstinence  than  that  of  Dr. 

Tanner.     For  eight  weeks  before  his  death  he  rarely 
(126) 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  127 

took  any  sustenance  whatever;  but  for  the  last  thirty 
days  of  his  life  he  was  known  to  take  but  two  spoon- 
fuls of  rice,  two  spoonfuls  of  beef  tea,  and  twice  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  in  a  little  wine,  and  which  his  stom- 
ach rejected.  A  little  water  and  wine  was  all  he  took 
for  at  least  twenty -eight  days,  and  for  fully  thirty 
days  prior  to  that  he  rarely  took  anything.  There  is 
no  doubt  about  this,  as  I  questioned  closely  the  two 
or  three  friends  who  were  his  nurses.  His  great  age 
and  long  abstinence  seem  to  me  a  marvel  by  the  side 
of  which  Dr.  Tanner's  fast  does  not  look  an  unreason- 
able thing,  or  at  all  to  be  questioned  as  to  its  being 
honestly  carried  out. 

David  Collins,  Esq.,  for  a  long  time  the  Judge 
Advocate  of  New  South  Wales,  was  the  first  Governor 
of  this  beautiful  island  of  Tasmania.  He  was  present 
with  his  father  at  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and 
there  witnessed  that  event  which  was  accepted  by  all 
Europe  as  the  sign  that  the  American  colonies  were 
lost  to  the  British  Crown.  He  proclaimed  the  do- 
minion of  Great  Britain  over  this  island,  and  thus 
announced  the  first  day  of  a  second  and  rapidly  grow- 
ing great  empire,  in  the  place  of  the  one  he  had  wit- 
nessed as  lost.  He  married  an  American  lady,  and 
died  in  1810. 

Society  in  Tasmania  in  that  early  time  was  not  very 
choice.  In  1802-3,  there  were  at  one  point  400  male 
prisoners  (for  then  it  was  a  penal  settlement),  and  but 
twelve  free  settlers,  three  married  women,  six  un- 
married, six  children,  and  forty  marines.  Out  of  such 


M8       A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

a  condition  of  things  as  this,  a  large  amount  of  the 
cruel  slaughter  of  the  natives  seems  to  have  certainly 
grown.  The  morality  of  the  time  may  be  estimated 
in  a  measure  from  the  following:  The  first  wedding 
published  by  the  Tasmanian  Press,  reads  thus  :  "  On 
Monday,  the  26th  ult.,  R.  C.  Burrows  to  Elizabeth 
Tucker,  both  late  of  Norfolk  Island.  They  had  co- 
habited together  for  fourteen  years,  thus  verifying  the 
old  adage,  '  better  late  than  never/ '  The  very  ex- 
cellent highway  from  Launceston  to  Hobart,  130 
miles  in  length,  was  constructed  by  convicts.  Thirty- 
three  years  ago  there  were  not  less  than  28,459  con- 
victs on  the  island.  One  of  these,  a  man  of  gigantic 
stature,  ran  off,  intending  somehow  to  go  to  China. 
This  man,  whose  name  was  Buckley,  with  another, 
wandered  for  months  in  the  mountains,  suffering  great 
misery,  where  he  found  a  tribe  of  natives,  and  lived 
with  them  thirty-three  years,  conforming  to  all  their 
barbarous  customs.  When  found,  he  had  forgotten 
his  own  language,  was  dressed  in  a  kangaroo  skin, 
and  armed  with  spears.  Another  proof  of  the  degra- 
dation of  a  white  man,  coming  into  close  relations 
with  the  savage,  when  that  white  man  is  himself  but 
partially  educated,  and  at  the  same  time  utterly  sur- 
rounded with  barbarism.  His  own  measure  of  civil- 
ization seems  to  have  been  completely  swallowed  up 
in  their  barbarism,  except  that  he  helped  to  give  to 
his  countrymen,  at  a  later  date,  a  friendly  reception 
amongst  the  natives.  He  was  still  living  in  1852. 
The  first  settlement  was  made  in  1803,  and  by  such 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  129 

a  class  of  persons,  almost  all  convicts,  that  it  is  only 
too  readily  conceivable,  how  the  poor  native  would 
fare  at  the  hands  of  the  white  savages  escaping  from 
convict  discipline.  Sitting  in  the  Parliamentary  Li- 
brary, and  reading  of  the  doings  of  some  of  these, 
it  made  me  feel  as  if  to  smite  these  miscreants  with 
the  fiercest  lightnings  would  be  but  small  retaliation. 
In  the  words  of  Prescott,  when  speaking  of  Las 
Casas'  "  Short  Account  of  the  Destruction  of  the 
Indians:"  "It  is  a  tale  of  woe.  Every  line  of  the 
work  may  be  said  to  be  written  in  blood/'  Mr.  Mel- 
ville, in  his  work  on  Van  Dieman's  Land,  says : 
"  Were  it  possible  to  record  and  detail  the  murders 
committed  upon  these  poor,  harmless  creatures,  it 
would  make  the  reader's  blood  run  cold  at  the  bare 
recital." 

Mr.  Backhouse,  another  writer,  and  a  benevolent 
gentleman,  living  at  that  time,  says  of  the  outrages 
practiced  upon  them,  "  That  they  were  such  as  to  re- 
move any  wonder  at  the  determination  of  these  in- 
jured people  to  drive  from  their  land  a  race  of  men 
among  whom  were  persons  guilty  of  such  deeds." 

Dr.  Dixon,  the  Episcopalian  Bishop  of  Tasmania, 
says :  "  There  are  many  such  on  record,  which  make 
us  blush  for  humanity  when  we  read  them,  and  forbid 
us  to  wonder  that  the  maddened  savages'  indiscrim- 
inate fury  should  not  only  have  refused  to  recognize 
the  distinction  between  friend  and  foe,  but  have 
taught  him  to  regard  each  white  man  as  an  intruding 

enemy." 
9 


130  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Count  Strezdeck,  in  his  work  on  missions,  p.  360, 
says,  what  may  be  applied  with  equal  truth  to  Tas- 
mania as  well  as  to  the  Dutch  at  Cape  Colony :  "  The 
Christianity  which  was  offered  the  natives  was  strip- 
ped of  its  charity,  and  the  civilization  embraced  no 
recognition  of  his  rights  or  property.  They  therefore 
rejected  both." 

So  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  make  out,  and  I 
searched  in  the  Parliamentary  Library  a  good  deal, 
the  whole  race  of  Tasmanians  seem  to  have  been 
completely  blotted  out  of  existence,  Avith  scarcely  any 
trace  of  Christianity  attaching  to  them. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  facts  connected 
with  the  black  race  of  Tasmania,  is  this :  that  though 
the  native  women  had  ^  been  and  were  most  cruelly 
ill-treated  by  the  whites,  the  male  aborigines,  though 
ready  to  inflict  death  by  the  spear,  always  abstained 
from  violating  the  person  of  the  white  woman.  The 
author  of  "The  Last  of  the  Tasmanians"  says-:. "In 
all  the  incursions  made  by  the  blacks  into  the  settle- 
ments, it  has  never  been  known  that  one  white  wo- 
man has  been  violated  by  them.  The  nearest^  ap- 
proach to  that  crime  has  been  done  by  half-civilized 
natives,  who  invariably  became  the  greatest  ruffians  in 
the  war.  Not  until  they  had  become  more  degraded 
than  they  originally  were,  by  learning  the  vices  of 
the  whites,  could  they  be  guilty  of  the  atrocities 
which  they  afterwards  committed." 

An  old  convict  servant  of  the  author  just  named, 
said  to  his  master :  "  They  fought  well.  I  admire 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  181 

their  pluck.  They  knew  they  were  the  weaker,  but 
they  felt  also  that  they  were  the  injured,  and  they 
sought  revenge  against  many  odds.  They  were  brave 
fellows,  and  I  would  have  done  the  same."  Scenes 
have  been  witnessed  on  this  Island  of  Tasmania  and 
deeds  done  very  much  like  those  which  the  Dutch  en- 
acted in  the  early  settlements  of  New  York  and  Long 
Island,  when  the  Indians  rose  up  to  revenge  the  cruel 
treachery  and  slaughter  inflicted  on  them,  and  carried 
a  fierce  war  into  every  Dutch  settlement  in  the  region. 
When  Captian  Cook  saw  the  natives  of  Tasmania  in 
1777,  they  were  quite  naked,  wore  no  ornaments,  they 
were  quite  black,  and  not  disagreeable  looking ;  had 
beautiful  teeth,  good  eyes,  but  were  very  dirty.  They 
were  of  full  average  hight,  very  sinewy  and  wiry,  and 
when  fire-arms  were  first  shown  them,  they  mani- 
fested neither  curiosity  nor  fear.  No  canoes  were 
ever  seen  among  them.  They  bore  a  certain  re- 
semblance to  the  negro,  whilst  the  Australian  had 
often  the  appearance  of  a  European.  They  were 
somewhat  shorter  in  stature  than  the  European,  but 
when  young,  heavier  in  proportion  to  age.  One  girl 
at  eleven  years  of  age  weighed  102  Ibs.,  and  another, 
at  eight  years  old,  eighty-six  Ibs.  The  average  of 
European  children,  as  compared  with  these,  is  as 
sixty  to  eighty-six,  and  seventy-eight  to  102.  When 
first  discovered  they  showed  but  little  of  that  ferocity 
and  vindictiveness  which  afterwards  so  characterized 
them.  They  were  rather  timid  and  distrustful  at 
first,  with  a  marked  indifference  and  lack  of  curi- 


132  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

osity.  All  ideas  as  to  their  origin  and  destiny  seem 
to  have  been  erased  from  their  minds.  But  it  ap- 
pears that  their  language  is  indicative  of  considerable 
strength,  copiousness  and  mental  power  and  activity. 
Their  social  relations  were  characterized  by  the  ab- 
sence rather  of  what  is  venerable  and  lovely,  than  by 
the  presence  of  what  is  dark  and  revolting.  Polyg- 
amy, to  some  extent,  seems  to  have  prevailed  among 
them  (but  some  doubt  this),  and  the  condition  of  the 
women  was  abject  enough. 

From  all  that  can  be  gathered  now,  it  seems  quite 
clear  that  when  the  whites  first  settled  in  Tasmania, 
the  natives  were  mild,  diffident,  willing  to  be  friendly, 
and  rather  afraid  of  the  invaders  of  their  territory. 
But  when  the  convicts  who  had  served  their  time  be- 
gan to  be  let  loose,  and  others  escaped  from  confine- 
ment, and  those  who  had  "tickets  of  leave"  began  to 
steal  the  wives  and  daughters,  and  to  kill  the  hus- 
bands and  fathers,  then  they  became  ferocious,  and 
attacked  the  settlers  wherever  they  found  them.  If 
cunning  and  something  approaching  to  treachery  had 
not  been  employed  against  them,  many  of  them 
would  have  been  found  living  in  their  forest  homes 
to-day.  They  were  slaughtered,  often  that  room  might 
be  made  for  the  sheep  and  cattle!  Then  the  few  that 
remained  were  forcibly  deported  (like  the  red  men  of 
the  West  have  often  been)  to  an  Island  in  Bass 
Strait,  where,  scantily  supplied  with  what,  to  them, 
were  necessaries  of  life,  they  lingered  awhile,  and, 
pining  for  their  homes  on  the  mainland,  which  was 


THE  NA  TIVE  TASMANIANS.  133 

just  visible  across  the  Strait  on  a  clear  day,  they  died. 
Others  of  them  were  subjected  to  as  cruel,  wanton, 
and  merciless  slaughter  as  ever  were  any  of  the 
Indians  of  the  West.  Sitting  and  reading  these 
things  in  the  Parliamentary  Library,  the  natural  man 
flames  out,  and  the  cry  almost  escapes,  calling  for 
vengeance  on  the  wrong-doers. 

The  Tasmanian  had  but  little  affection  for  his  wife, 
and  in  the  hour  of  parturition  she  was  left  alone  with 
another  woman,  and  in  a  few  hours  had  to  follow  her 
tribe  as  best  she  could,  with  her  child  hung  on  her 
back  in  a  Kangaroo  skin.  If  the  child  required 
nourishment,  the  breast  was  thrust  up  to  the  shoulder 
to  the  child,  and  this  custom  accounts  for  the  fact  that 
the  breasts  became  disproportionately  long.  If  the 
child  was  permitted  to  live,  it  was  treated  with  great 
care,  but  very  often  the  children  were  destroyed ;  but 
this  barbarous  custom  was  not  common  with  them, 
when  first  discovered,  but  the  result  of  continual  suf- 
fering inflicted  by  the  whites!  The  young  men  were 
initiated  into  the  state  of  manhood,  by  being  severely 
cut  with  some  sharp  instrument  on  the  breasts,  shoul- 
ders and  thighs,  and  this  was  done  by  an  aged  female; 
but  though  the  flesh  was  made  to  turn  back  like  a 
crimped  fish,  they  were  in  the  highest  glee  during  the 
whole  operation.  They  had  no  dogs  until  they  were 
introduced  by  the  whites,  when  they  kept  numbers  of 
them  around  their  encampments,  the  pups  being  often 
suckled  by  the  women  !  When  the  men  were  absent 
on  a  hunting  expedition,  the  women  would  sing  a 


134  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

song  addressed  to  a  deity  who  presided  over  the  day, 
for  protection  for  their  husbands  and  themselves,  and 
to  bring  them  back  in  safety,  and  accompanying  with 
gracefulness  of  action  the  song  which  they  poured 
forth  in  strains  by  no  means  inharmonious.  Mr. 
Da  vies,  in  the  Tasmanian  Journal  of  Science,  said 
that  "  the  sweetness  of  their  notes,  and  which  were 
delivered  in  pretty  just  cadences  and  excellent  time, 
made  a  harmony  to  which  the  most  refined  ear  might 
listen  with  pleasure."  They  turned  away  from  fat 
with  loathing  and  nausea.  A  party  being  removed 
to  Flinder's  Island,  the  captain  had  some  soup  made 
for  them.  They  looked  upon  it  quietly,  and  then 
skimmed  off  the  fat,  and  put  it  on  their  hair,  thinking 
it  was  made  for  that  purpose,  but  they  would  not 
drink  the  soup.  They  even  rejected  bread  with  dis- 
gust, if  it  had  been  cut  with  a  butter-knife.  They 
seem  to  have  left  behind  them  no  trace  of  their  oc- 
cupancy of  the  Island,  beyond  the  large  heaps  of 
shells  on  the  beaches,  the  remains  of  their  feasts. 
These  shell-mounds  have  been  thus  made,  and  not,  as 
has  been  too  often  supposed,  by  the  change  in  the 
relative  positions  of  the  land  and  sea.  Heaps  of 
shells,  and  mounds  several  feet  in  thickness  and  many 
yards  in  breadth,  abound  along  all  the  shores,  and  on 
every  indentation  on  all  the  coast,  but  always  thus 
produced.  They  had  stone  implements,  and  obtained 
fire  by  rubbing  two  pieces  of  wood  briskly  together, 
but  have  no  tradition  as  to  how  they  obtained  the 
knowledge.  They  are  said  by  high  authority  to  be 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  135 

nearer  in  likeness  to  the  whites,  and  not  to  the  worst 
amongst  them,  than  the  so-called  civilized  peoples  of 
the  cities  would  be  willing  to  admit. 

The  cause  of  the  animosity  which  at  last  could  not 
be  extinguished  except  by  the  extermination  of  the 
blacks,  seems  to  have  been  this:  A  small  stone  house 
had  been  built  for  a  gardener,  who  had  just  begun  his 
work  in  cultivating  around  it,  when  one  day,  as  he 
was  working,  he  was  surprised  by  the  appearance  of  a 
number  of  natives  coming  toward  him;  at  which  he 
ran  off  and  told  Lieut.  Moore,  who  commanded  a 
party  of  the  102nd  regiment,  stationed  there.  He  at 
once  drew  up  his  men  to  resist  the  expected  attack. 
On  the  approach  of  the  natives,  the  soldiers  were 
ordered  to  fire  upon  them.  The  execution  this  volley 
did  among  them,  and  their  ignorance  of  the  nature  of 
firearms,  terrified  them  to  such  a  degree  that  they 
fled  without  attempting  the  slightest  defense.  From 
that  moment  a  deep-rooted  hatred  of  the  strangers 
possessed  them,  which  seems  never  to  have  been  put 
down.  Moore  was  drunk. 

The  Hobart  Town  Gazette  of  1824,  says  of  them: 
"  The  sable  natives  are  the  most  peaceable  creatures 
in  the  world."  I  read  such  stories  of  cruelty  and 
enormous  wickedness,  as  made  me  almost  wish  that 
the  whole  white  race  had  been  exterminated. 

Dr.  Ross  says  that,  in  1823,  when  he  went  to  one 
point,  he  saw  a  man  sitting  on  a  stump,  nearly  starved 
to  death.  He  had  only  three  days  before  stolen  a  black 
woman,  and  chained  her  to  a  log  with  a  bullock- 


136  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

chain,  dressing  her  in  a  fine  linen  shirt,  the  only  one 
he  had.  This  he  had  done  in  hopes  of  taming  her. 
She  somehow  contrived  to  slip  the  chain,  and  escaped. 
Not  long  after  he  was  found  speared  to  death.  An- 
other case  illustrative  of  the  almost  incredible  wick- 
edness of  some  of  these  early  settlers  is  told  by  the 
author  of  the  "  Last  of  the  Tasmanians,"  as  follows: 
Two  men  went  out  shooting  birds,  when  a  number  of 
natives,  happening  to  see  them,  fled  away.  A  woman, 
very  far  advanced  in  pregnancy,  being  unable  to  run 
with  the  rest,  climbed  up  a  tree  (and  they  were 
very  expert  at  climbing).  She  broke  down  branches 
around  her  for  concealment,  but  she  had  been  ob- 
served by  the  sportsmen.  One  of  these  proposed  to 
shoot  her,  but  the  other  objected.  The  first  one, 
however,  dropped  behind  and  fired  at  the  unfortunate 
creature.  A  fearful  scream  was  heard,  and  the  next 
moment  a  new-born  child  fell  out  of  the  tree !  That 
very  day  the  wife  and  child  of  this  monster,  when 
crossing  the  Derwent,  in  a  small  boat,  were  upset  by 
a  sudden  squall,  and  both  were  drovvned,  and  he  him- 
self came  to  a  very  violent  death  not  long  after. 
Their  sufferings  were  of  such  a  character  that  Dr. 
Coke,  a  gifted  writer  on  the  West  Indies,  says  that 
"  the  author  who  records  their  miseries  will  almost  be 
deemed  incredible;  and  whilst  his  narrative  will  be 
read  with  astonishment,  it  will  perhaps  be  associated 
with  the  marvelous,  and  consigned  to  the  shelves  of 
romance/7 

In  1849  the  only  survivors  of  the  race  were  twelve 


H    H 

s>    to 

2    G 


3   > 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  137 

men  and  twenty-three  women.  The  government  re- 
moved them  to  comfortable  quarters  near  Hobart, 
and  placed  them  under  the  superintendence  of  a 
physician.  William  Lannae,  the  last  man  of  the 
Tasmanian  race,  died  March  2nd,  1869.  One  year 
before  that,  when  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh  visited 
Tasmania,,  he  was  dressed  in  a  blue  suit,  with  a  gold 
lace  band  around  his  cap.  He  was  introduced  to  the 
Duke,  with  whom  he  walked  proudly  on  the  grounds 
of  the  Regatta,  as  if  he  felt  sure  that  only  himself 
and  the  Duke  were  in  possession  of  royal  blood! 
Soon  after  this,  he  went  on  a  whaling  .expedition,  and 
on  his  return,  being  paid  the  wages  due,  some  sixty 
dollars,  having  an  ungovernable  propensity  for  beer, 
he  drank  himself  to  death.  On  the  above  date,  when 
attempting  to  dress  himself,  he  fell  back  on  his  bed  — 
dead.  He  was  only  thirty-four  years  of  age  when  he 
died.  His  funeral  was  attended1  by  a  large  concourse 
of  people.  Before  the  body  was  finally  consigned  to 
the  tomb,  it  was  discovered  that  the  head  had  been 
taken,  and  what  became  of  it  has  not  been  satisfac- 
torily made  known  to  the  public.  The  skin  had  been 
taken  off  it,  and  drawn  over  the  face  of  another  per- 
son who  had  died  about  the  same  time,  and  whose 
head,  with  Lannae's  face,  was  made  to  do  duty  for 
poor  Lannae's  missing  head.  An  eminent  physician 
was  suspended  by  Government,  under  strong  pre- 
sumptive evidence  that  he  had  had  something  to  do 
with  the  mutilation.  So  passed  away  the  last  man  of  a 
most  cruelly  ill-treated  race.  The  rest  of  the  few 


138  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

under  Government  care,  although  there  were  twelve 
men  and  twenty-three  women,  all  passed  away  having 
no  children.  Mr.  James  Boswick,  F.  R.  G.  S.,  au- 
thor of  "  The  Last  of  the  Tasmanians,"  says,  in  refer- 
ence to  this :  "  It  seems  that  to  other  causes  than 
violence  and  disease  must  be  assigned  the  extinction 
of  these  children  of  nature,  when  coming  into  contact 
with  the  civilized  European."  What  these  other 
causes  may  be,  I  do  not  know,  but  I  heard  a  strange- 
ly significant  remark  made  by  an  old  settler,  as  to 
what  they  possibly  might  be. 

The  last  woman,  Truganini,  or  Sea  Weed,  died 
May  8th,  1876,  aged  sixty  years,  so  that  there  is  not 
now  a  single  native  Tasmanian  living.  After  no 
small  inquiry,  I  could  never  find  out  that  more  than 
just  a  few  persons  were  every  brought  under  the  in- 
fluence of  the  gospel.  The  Bishop  of  Tasmania,  in 
his  account  of  them,  shows,  I  think,  a  more  meagre 
result  that  way,  than  ever  came  to  pass  with  any 
tribe  of  men  whom  it  was  sought  to  civilize  and 
Christianize.  I  was  shown  two  skulls  of  aborigines, 
their  size  being  some  three  or  four  inches  less  than 
the  average  European's.  When  a  lighted  candle  was 
introduced  into  the  male  skull,  the  organs  of  de- 
structiveness,  secretiveness  and  amativeness  were 
seen  to  be  almost  transparent.  All  the  higher  facul- 
ties seem  to  have  been  very  small.  Such,  at  least, 
was  the  reading  of  this  skull  by  a  phrenologist  to  me. 
But  reading  the  sad  facts  of  their  cruel  fate,  one  can 
hardly  help  feeling  and  seeing  that,  in  their  few  good 


THE  NATIVE  TASMANIANS.  139 

qualities,  they  often  excelled  their  more  highly  gifted 
destroyers,  and  in  their  bad  or  indifferent  ones  were 
far  oftener  exceeded,  all  the  readings  of  phrenology 
to  the  contrary  notwithstanding.  I  spoke  with  many 
who  had  personally  known  Truganini,  and  all  spoke 
of  her  as  a  bright,  cheerful,  intelligent  woman.  They 
are  all  gone  now,  and  the  whole  truth  will  not  be 
known  until  that  time  when  "  the  earth  shall  no  more 
cover  her  slain."  H.  EXLEY. 

SYDNEY,  New  South  Wales,  Australia,  May  13, 1881. 


LETTER  XII. 

NEW    SOUTH    WALES.  —  SYDNEY. 

INSTEAD  of  being  this  moment  in  London,  or  at 
home,  I  am  here  in  Newtown,  Sydney,  New  South 
Walesa  What  may  be  the  Providence  and  meaning 
of  this,  to  me,  entirely  unsought,  nndesired,  and 
strange  journey,  from  first  to  last,  I  know  not,  but 
hope  and  feel  assured  that  it  has  a  divine  significance 
in  more  directions  than  one. 

Writing  from  Hobart,  Tasmania,  in  plenty  of  time, 
under  .ordinary  circumstances,  to  secure  a  berth  on 
the  "  Orient "  for  London,  I  found  that,  owing  to  a 
sudden  change  in  the  time  of  sailing  of  the  mail-boat 
from  Launceston,  by  the  Postmaster  General,  I  could 
not  secure  a  berth,  every  one  being  engaged  before  I 
got  to  Melbourne.  Bro.  Haley  had  just  received  a 
very  pressing  letter  for  evangelistic  help  from  this 
far-off  region,  and  as  I  would  not  -leave  until  two 
more  weeks  passed  away,  it  was  urged  upon  me  to  go 
to  Newtown,  Sydney,  for  two  months.  Leaving  Mel- 
bourne on  Wednesday,  the  13th  of  April,  in  the  Ly- 
ee-moon,  after  a  two  days'  very  stormy,  but  to  me  not 
unpleasant,  voyage,  I  arrived  in  Sydney  at  5  P.  M., 
Friday.  Owing  to x  the  letter  posted  at  Melbourne 

not  getting  to  hand  until  two  hours  after  my  arrival, 
(140) 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  141 

no  one  expected  me.  All  the  hotels  were  full,  and, 
after  trying  some  five  or  six,  I  gave  it  up  and  took  a 
'"bus"  for  Newtown,  not  knowing  either  a  brother, 
a  name,  or  an  address.  Arriving  in  Newtown,  at  my 
first  inquiry  for  "  Christians,"  I  was  directed  to  the 
house  of  one  of  them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  received 
a  kindly  welcome  from  Bro.  J.  Kingsbury,  Jr.  Not, 
however,  until  10  P.  M.,  did  I  find  a  resting-place, 
weary  and  foot-sore,  at  the  home  of  Bro.  Thomas 
Hawkins,  one  of  the  elders  of  the  church  at  New- 
town,  with  whom,  and  his  excellent  family,  I  made 
my  home. 

The  whole  distance  from  the  open  sea  to  the  city, 
the  bay  and  harbor  are  very  fine  in  their  exceedingly 
picturesque  beauty,  being  skirted  on  either  side  by 
bold,  high  bluffs,  broken  at  short  intervals  by  beauti- 
ful inlets  and  smaller  bays  —  the  bluffs  at  two  or 
three  points  being  crowned  with  forts  and  their 
accompanying  instruments  of  destruction.  Nature 
seems  to  have  done  everything  necessary  to  make 
Sydney  harbor  and  bay  at  once  one  of  the  safest  and 
most  capacious  and  beautiful  in  the  world.  The  city 
itself,  with  everything  that  can  be  desired  in  the 
way  of  situation,  configuration  of  country  and  sea- 
board, is  a  spoiled  city.  With  buildings,  both  public 
and  private,  banks,  post-office,  town-hall,  cathedrals, 
churches,  government  offices,  and  business  buildings, 
public  library  and  museum,  which  no  less  a  word 
than  "magnificent"  will  describe,  and  on  a  scale 
which  excites  both  wonder  and  astonishment,  it  is 


142  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

none  the  less  a  spoiled  city.  Its  streets  are  so  nar- 
row, and  often  crooked,  that  the  finest  buildings  are 
defrauded  of  their  proper  effect  by  their  surroundings. 
It  seems  to  be  the  city  of  fine  buildings,  narrow 
streets,  public  houses,  and  dogs.  It  exceeds,  I  think, 
all  the  places  I  was  ever  in  for  the  number  of  dogs  to 
be  seen,  and  evidently  well  kept,  for  they  are  a  good- 
tempered  host. 

Sydney,  with  its  suburbs,  is  a  vast  city,  and  covers 
a  very  large  area.  Near  to  where  I  am  writing,  and 
about  three  miles  from  the  city  proper,  is  a  closed 
cemetery,  in  which  lie  buried  about  18,000.  When 
opened,  it  seems  to  have  been  thought  that  the  city 
would  never  push  itself  out  so  far;  but  now  a  large 
population  surrounds  it,  and  the  suburbs  stretch  out 
for  miles  beyond  it.  The  same  mistake  and  crime 
against  the  future  welfare  of  this  vast  city  is  being 
committed  in  all  the  out-lying  suburbs,  of  narrow 
streets.  The  streets  are  crowded  with  people,  intent 
on  business  or  pleasure.  The  cabs,  omnibuses,  and 
steam-car  tramways,  do  an  enormous  business.  Ninety 
trains  of  passenger  cars  leave  and  re'turn  every  day, 
engaged  in  suburban  traffic,  about  six  cars  to  a  train, 
all  made  on  our  American  model,  but  nearly  all  made 
here  in  Sydney. 

On  a  recent  week  there  were  taken  1.82,589  single 
fares  on  the  three  steam-tramway  lines  in  the  city 
itself,  all  of  which  belong  to  and  are  worked  by  the 
government,  and  with  great  advantage  to  the  revenue. 
In  addition  to  all  this,  there  is  a  vast  omnibus  service, 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  U3 

and  running  to  every  corner  of  the  distant  suburbs, 
at  the  rate  of  about  two  cents  per  mile. 

As  an  indication  of  the  commercial  importance  of 
Sydney,  I  find  that  there  visited  the  wharfs  of  this 
city  in  1879  —  1,268,377  tons  in  shipping.  The  min- 
eral wealth  of  the  Colony  is  also  very  great,  but  con- 
sidered as  but  in  the  infancy  of  its  development  as 
yet.  Up  to  1879,  about  280  tons  of  gold  had  been 
taken  from  the  mines,  in  value  more  than  $168,000,- 
000;  the  tin,  iron  and  copper  swell  it  up  to  more 
than  $250,000,000.  The  entire  product  of  gold  in 
the  colonies  of  New  Zealand,  Tasmania,  Victoria, 
Queensland  and  New  South  Wales,  reaches  about 
2,200  tons.  The  output  of  coal,  in  this  colony  alone, 
in  1879,  was  1,620,497  tons.  Its  tin  area  is  5,440,- 
000  acres ;  its  iron  area,  1,400  square  miles,  and  of 
copper,  6,713  square  miles. 

I  visited  the  Agricultural  Exhibition-  which  has 
just  closed  here ;  the  exhibitors  were  very  few,  not 
nearly  so  many  as  may  be  seen  at  almost  any  of  our 
less  pretentious  Western  Exhibitions  of  a  similar 
character.  The  exhibits,  however,  were  all  of  a  very 
superior  character.  Amongst  "Reapers  and  Self- 
Binders,"  the  "  Wood's,"  of  New  York  State,  took 
the  first  prize  over  McCormick's.  The  exhibits  of 
cattle  and  horses,  sheep  and  swine,  were  all  of  a 
quality  of  which  it  may  be  said  that  they  were  almost 
faultless.  I  attended  the  succeeding  sale  of  Short- 
horns and  other  high-priced  cattle,  and  the  prices 
realized  were  in  every  case  high.  The  cattle-owners 


144  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

and  stockmen  of  this  vast  colony  are  fully  awake  to 
the  signs  and  demands  of  the  times,  and  are  improv- 
ing their  herds  up  to  the  highest  point  of  perfection 
as  rapidly  as  they  can.  The  competition  between 
them  and  our  Western  producers  will  be  keen  —  but 
all  will  reap  the  benefit,  in  a  much  better  article  than 
is  often  now  to  be  obtained. 

One  company  here  —  the  Orange  Company  —  has 
already  entered  upon  arrangements  by  which  it  will 
be  enabled  to  send  50,000  carcasses  of  beef,  each 
averaging  800  pounds  of  meat,  in  the  most  thoroughly 
perfect  condition,  as  far  any  present  known  appliances 
can  secure  that,  to  the  London  market,  yearly.  Be- 
sides these  40,000,000  pounds  of  beef,  they  will  also 
be  able  to  send  28,000,000  pounds  of  mutton.  Vast 
as  this  amount  is,  it  will  hardly  furnish  two  pounds 
per  head,  per  annum,  to  the  English  population,  so 
there  is  an  immense  field  and  market  to  be  occupied 
and  supplied  there.  Australian  meat  will  command 
the  first  place  and  the  best  prices  in  England,  unless 
similar  conditions  are  brought  about  by  our  farmers 
and  stockmen.  In  the  slaughtering  of  the  animals, 
the  most  scientific  methods  are  employed,  by  which 
death  is  instantaneous,  and  the  blood  most  completely 
drained  away.  The  company  has  also  consulted  the 
leading  butchers  in  England,  as  to  the  condition  of 
meat  which  best  suits  the  very  best  English  markets, 
and  are  bending  all  their  energies  to  secure  that. 

They  have  some  thousands  of  acres  of  fine  grass 
lands  attached  to  their  establishments,,  so  that  all  the 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  145 

cattle,  on  arriving,  are  at  once  put  into  pasture, 
remaining  there  for  two  or  more  weeks,  and  both 
resting  and  improving  all  the  time.  Not  one  animal 
is  driven  a  long  distance  or  brought  a  long  distance 
on  the  cars,  and  then,  in  its  weary  and  fretted  condi- 
tion, slaughtered,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  meat,  and 
consumer  also.  They  are  slaughtered  when  at  their 
best.  These  are  the  conditions  which  will  secure  the 
first  place  in  the  market.  Another  thing,  also  of 
prime  importance :  only  the  choicest  animals  are  sent 
to  slaughter  for  the  English  market.  The  govern- 
ment has  put  down  a  side  line  of  rails  to  their  estab- 
lishment, and  has  entered  into  an  arrangement  by 
which  it  agrees  to  supply  them  as  the  need  shall  be 
manifested,  with  refrigerating  cars  made  on  the  best 
and  most  approved  plans,  so  that  the  meat,  when 
frozen  by  the  company,  will  be,  at  the  time  of  ship- 
ment, put  into  chilled  cars,  from  which  it  will  be 
transferred  in  specially-constructed  lighters  to  the 
freezing-rooms  on  the  steamer  which  is  to  convey  it 
to  England.  The  same  company  sees  to  it  that  so 
much  of  the  meat  as  belongs  to  various  owners,  is  put 
up  carefully  in  thoroughly  clean  canvas  bags,  bearing 
the  brands  of  their  owners.  They  also  are  beginning 
what  will  soon  assume  large  proportions :  wool-wash- 
ing, fell-mongering  and  glue-making.  There  are  in 
this  colony  more  than  37,000  stockholders,  owning 
360,000  horses,  2,914,210  horned  cattle,  and  29,043,- 
211  sheep,  at  the  last  stock-taking,  in  1879. 

The  wool  of  this  colony  is  said  to  hold  a  high  place 


146  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

in  all  the  wool  markets  in  the  world.  My  brother, 
who  i«  quite  a  connoisseur  of  wools,  has  entered  into 
a  contract  in  this  colony  to  classify  the  wool,  and 
superintend  the  shearing  of  some  90,000  sheep,  and 
the  washing  of  the  wool. 

It  is  now  the  middle  of  June,  and  they  call  it 
winter.  It  is  certainly  now  and  then  a  little  chilly, 
and  gets  nearly  down  to  freezing,  but  the  fields  are 
gloriously  green,  and  the  orange  trees  are  loaded  with 
golden  yellow  fruit,  and  the  hedge-rows  are  beautiful 
with  flowers  erf  the  tall  native  Box.  I  don't  know  if 
they  have  such  a  thing  as  winter  here,  unless  it  is  as 
everywhere  else  —  the  "  winter  of  discontent."  I  was 
visiting  a  sick  lady  two  days  ago,  who  has  been  in 
this  colony  fifty  years,  who  told  me  she  had  never 
seen  snow  in  all  that  time. 

The  public  parks,  gardens,  libraries  and  museums, 
are  all  on  a  scale  which  excite  astonishment.  I 
visited  the  Public  Free  Library  —  by  no  means  a 
small  building,  but  it  was  evident,  at  a  glance,  that  it 
was  too  small  for  the  accommodation  of  its  readers. 
Every  table  was  crowded.  The  government  has  voted 
the  means  for  the  erection  of  an  entirely  new  build- 
ing, and  on  a  scale,  and  of  such  architectural  beauty, 
as  to  be  quite  abreast  with  the  best  institutions  of  its 
kind.  There  is  also  a  free  public  lending  library  in 
connection  with  it,  and  the  literature  in  demand  is 
fairly  represented  in  the  issues  from  it  to  the  public, 
in  the  following  items,  which  I  have  obtained  by  a 
personal  application  to  the  very  courteous  Librarian, 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  147 

Mr.  W.  W.  Palmer,  who  at  once,  on  my  making 
known  my  wishes,  took  down  the  books,  and  copied 
out  for  me  himself  the  sum  totals,  since  the  present 
year  opened,  as  follows :  Number  of  visitors,  16,650 ; 
number  of  days  open,  144;  books  issued:  Natural 
Philosophy  and  Science,  1938.  History,  Chronology, 
Antiquities  and  Mythology,  1471.  Biography  and 
Correspondence,  1660.  Geography,  Topography,  Voy- 
ages and  Travels,  2509.  Jurisprudence,  253.  Men- 
tal and  Moral  Philosophy,  611.  Poetry  and  the 
Drama,  528.  Miscellaneous,  12,071.  Specifications 
of  Patents,  1.  Total,  21,042.  Taking  all  in  all, 
there  seems  to  be  a  very  creditable  taste  for  the  best 
literature  amongst  the  great  body  of  artisans  in  this 
city.  Midway  between  the  city  and  the  point  where 
I  am  laboring,  there  is  a  very  large  enclosure  of  land 
laid  out  in  fine  taste,  in  which,  at  various  distances, 
are  situated  the  State  University  and  the  three  col- 
leges of  the  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians  and  Roman 
Catholics,  all  large  and  very  beautiful  buildings.  On 
Lord's  days  large  numbers  of  people  congregate  at 
various  points  on  the  grounds,  and  earnest  preachers 
of  various  denominations  are  there  to  preach  that 
which  they  believe  to  be  the  gospel.  Our  brethren 
are  not  in  any  way  behindhand  in  this  good  work. 
Bros.  Nelson  and  Goocle,  of  the  Newtown  Church,  are 
here,  preaching  every  Lord's  day,  when  the  weather 
permits,  and  it  is  very  rarely  the  case  that  it  does 
not;  and  Bro.  Picton  and  others  are  found  in  the 
same  work  in  the  Domain,  really  the  Central  Park  of 


148  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Sydney.  Some  of  the  brethren  also  preach  in  the 
suburbs  every  Lord's  day  evening.  In  addition  to- 
the  above  colleges,  the  Wesleyans  and  the  Congrega- 
tionalists  have  each  their  own  college  in  the  suburbs, 
and  all,  I  believe,  are  well  patronized,  except  the  last. 
Some  earnest  Christian  men,  who  have  formed 
themselves  into  an  Aborigines  Protection  Society,  are 
doing  something  both  to  protect  and  Christianize  the 
black  native  population  in  the  interior,  and  to  care 
for  the  few  that  are  found  lingering  in  and  around 
Sydney.  The  efforts  to  Christianize  them  are  meet- 
ing with  some  real  success,  but  the  efforts  are  not  at 
all  commensurate  with  the  needs  of  the  case.  Those 
of  the  natives  I  have  seen  are  really  not  bad  speci- 
mens of  physical  build,  but  they  are  nearly  black. 
They  are  reported  to  be  very  expert  in  learning  the 
various  handicrafts.  As  trackers  they  fully  rival  the 
clear-eyed  red  man  of  the  West.  Those  who  have 
lived  among  them  and  near  them  for  many  years, 
assure  me  that  they  are  intelligent,  peaceable  and 
kind,  but  have  often  been  treated  even  with  cruelty. 
Bro.  W.  Newell,  a  gentleman  whom  it  has  been  my 
joy  to  baptize,  and  who  has  lived  among  them  for 
years,  confirms  all  this.  He  also  tells  me  he  has  seen 
them  throw  the  boomerang  in  such  a  way,  and  with 
such  force  and  skill,  that  whilst  it  was  thrown  a  con- 
siderable distance  forward,  it  would  corns  darting  and 
bounding  back  and  far  behind  the  place  from  where  it 
was  thrown,  and  even  strike  off  the  upper  tier  of 
bricks  from  a  house-chimney.  I  have  also  been  in- 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  149 

formed  that  they  throw  the  spear  with  such  consum- 
mate skill  and  precision  that,  when  in  hunting  they 
have  come  into  the  presence  of  game,  they  form  a 
large  circle  around  it,  at  a  considerable  distance,  and 
every  man  throws  his  spear  at  the  same  instant,  and 
so  that  the  points  always  strike  into  the  ground,  with 
the  upper  ends  converging  to  a  center  over  the  head 
of  the  game,  thus  literally  encaging  it. 

The  poisoned  arrows  used  all  over  these  South  Sea 
lands  are  a  terrible  weapon.  Through  the  kindness 
of  Bro.  Newell,  I  have  received  two  of  these  arrows, 
together  with  two  non-poisoned  ones,  and  a  stone- 
headed  spear,  but  very  sharp.  The  arrows  are  poi- 
soned by  being  thrust  into  a  corpse  that  is  far  ad- 
vanced in  corruption.  It  is  rarely  the  case  that  even 
a  slight  injury  with  one  of  these  does  not  prove  fatal. 
I  also  received  four  fine  boat-paddles  made  from  the 
wood  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  which  are  so  made  as 
to  be  used  as  spears  in  case  of  a  naval  encounter. 
These  were  all  taken  from  the  natives  of  the  Island 
of  Rubianno,  one  of  the  Solomon  group,  by  whom, 
some  few  months  ago,  Lieut.  Bower  and  several  men 
of  the  a  Sand-Fly,"  were  so  treacherously  massacred, 
whilst  the  whole  of  the  crew  were  on  shore,  except  a 
few.  These  weapons  were  taken  by  the  men  sent  to 
punish  them  for  their  crime,  and  through  the  courtesy 
of  Bro.  Newell  they  have  come  into  my  possession. 
During  our  stay  at  Wellington,  New  Zealand,  we  saw 
the  Sand  Fly,  still  bearing  the  marks  of  their  savage 
fury. 


150  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

We  have  not  many  churches  in  New  South  Wales. 
The  principal  ones  are  the  churches  of  Sydney  and 
Newtown.  The  church  in  Sydney  has  the  good 
providence  of  having  for  its  evangelist,  Bro.  John 
Strang,  formerly  of  Glasgow,  Scotland,  a  man  loved 
and  esteemed  by  all  who  know  him.  I  have  spoken 
for  him  twice:  once,  by  request,  on  "The  Resurrec- 
tion of  Jesus  the  Christ:  Did  it  ever  take  place?" 
The  tea-meeting  is  an  institution  here  in  Sydney,  as 
in  all  the  Colonies,  and  it  was  my  pleasure  to  be  an 
invited  guest  to  the  one  recently  held  in  the  Sydney 
chapel.  The  membership  is  about  150,  and  at  least 
100  sat  down  to  tea,  although  it  was  a  wet  night, 
when  nearly  s$200  was  given  or  promised,  every 
shilling  of  which  would  be  paid  to  effect  some  needed 
repairs  and  alterations.  They  seem  to  have  good 
hopes  for  the  future ;  but  Sydney  is*  by  no  means  an 
easy  field.  They  have  a  Sunday-school  of  about 
seventy  or  more  scholars,  with  a  sufficient  staff  of 
teachers. 

The  Newtown  church  has  a  membership  of  about 
170.  It  has  two  elders,  four  deacons,  about  100 
scholars  in  the  Sunday-school,  and  eleven  teachers. 
Bro.  Hawkins,  one  of  the  elders,  not  only  superin- 
tends the  Sunday-school,  but  also  teaches  a  Bible- 
class  one  evening  in  the  week;  he  does  his  full  share 
of  the  teaching,  and  in  the  absence  of  an  evangelist 
will  be  found  ready  to  do  his  share  of  preaching  also. 
Being  a  man  engaged  in  an  exacting  business  all  the 
week,  his  labor  for  the  church  is  not  a  small  matter. 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  151 

During  the  time  I  labored  for  this  church,  I  took 
charge  of  the  Bible-class,  and  found  it  a  most  pleasant 
and  profitable  work,  as  I  spent  nearly  the  whole  day 
in  preparing  for  the  evening  lesson. 

The  two  churches  own  buildings  of  quite  $10,000 
value  between  them,  and  the  churches  will  seat  about 
350  or  400  each.  Dr.  Kingsbury  is  the  other  elder 
associated  with  Bro.  Hawkins,  an  earnest,  able  man, 
with  a  nerve  as  unflinching  as  steel,  and  a  heart  as 
tender  as  a  woman's. 

When  a  boy,  he  was  the  subject  of  one  of  those 
strange  providences,  which  arrest  attention,  and  which 
on  ordinary  grounds  seem  so  difficult  to  understand. 
He  and  his  brother  being  out  one  day  together,  they 
found  a  brace  of  dueling-pistols,  but  rusted  from  ex- 
posure. Elated  with  their  treasure-trove,  they  took 
them  home,  and  soon  began  to  fight  mock-duels. 
Day  after  day,  and  week  after  week,  in  the  house  and 
everywhere  'round,  they  made  sport  in  that  way.  This 
was  done  hundreds  of  times.  One  day  the  boys  got 
up  into  the  topmost  room  of  the  house,  with  a  sky- 
light opening  on  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  and  the 
window  of  it  happened  to  be  open.  They  played  at 
their  old  dueling  game  again,  snapping  off  their  rusty 
weapons,  with  caps,  until  they  were  tired,  when  one 
of  them  observing  the  open  sky-light  said,  "  Now  for 
a  go  through  the  window,"  and  snapped  his  pistol  off 
once  more;  but  this  time  there  was  a  loud  report,  and 
a  ball  was  discharged,  which  passed  through  the  roof 
and  inside  boards  of  the  next  house.  This  led  to  a 


152  A   TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

thorough  examination  of  the  other  pistol,  and  it  also 
was  found  to  contain  a  ball.  The  pistols  had  been 
snapped  off  with  caps  many  hundreds  of  times  by  the 
boys  at  each  other,  when  this  "  Now  for  a  go  through 
the  window"  revealed  the  fact  that  they  had  been 
playing  with  death  all  the  time,  and  only  by  one  of 
those  mysterious  providences  which  take  place  so 
often,  was  this  last  snapping-off  of  the  pistol  turned 
away  from  the  breast  of  the  brother  and  aimed 
through  the  open  sky-light. 

Bro.  Kingsbury  is  getting  far  on  now,  on  the  road 
to  the  valley  of  the  shadow,  but  he  seems  as  if  the 
light  of  the  city  came  streaming  upon  him,  and  with 
him  it  may  be  said,  "  At  evening  time  there  is  light." 

Since  coming  here  my  meetings  have  been  really 
good,  and  the  interest  apparently  of  a  very  serious 
nature.  It  has  been  my  privilege,  under  God,  to 
help  to  reap  after  the  sowing  of  others.  Thirteen 
have  confessed  the  Saviour's  name  since  I  began  my 
labors  amongst  them,  ten  of  whom  I  have  baptized; 
the  rest  will  be  baptized  in  a  few  days,  and  probably 
more  also.  One  Lord's  day  I  went  to  the  large  sub- 
urban town  of  Parramatta,  and  preached  for  the 
Baptists  and  their  congregation,  accompanied  by  Bro. 
Picton,  who  goes  there  once  in  two  weeks.  They 
seem  to  be  drawing  nearer  to  Apostolic  lines,  and 
hope  is  entertained  that  an  entire  return  will  be  the 
result.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  same  Lord's  day  I 
went  to  the  Poor-house,  and  preached  to  a  large  com- 
pany of  the  aged  sick,  lame  and  blind.  It  was  good 


THE  UNIVERSITY. 


THE  MUSEUM, 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES.  153 

to  be  there.  One  poor  fellow,  blind  for  tbe  past  ten 
years,  sat  on  his  bed,  with  a  face  almost  illuminated, 
as  if  the  light  in  fading  from  the  eyes  had  passed  into 
his  countenance.  It  was  a  beautiful  testimony  to  the 
ennobling  and  redeeming  power  of  the  gospel,  to  see 
some  of  the  young  members  of  the  Baptist  Church 
there  (and  they  visit  this  and  other  similar  institutions 
every  Lord's  day  afternoon),  to  preach  Jesus  and  to 
speak  comforting  words  to  the  aged  and  sick.  If  the 
young  men  and  women  of  our  churches,  in  cities 
where  this  kind  of  work  can  be  done,  were  to  set 
about  it,  what  a  blessed  influence  would  be  created.  I 
felt  it  a  privilege  thus  to  be  permitted  to  try  and 
p'ress  some  cup  of  consolation  to  lips  parched  with  the 
agony  of  many  of  this  world's  dark  Gethsemanes. 
On  one  Lord's  day  morning  I  visited  a  little  "church 
in  the  house"  of  Bro.  Stimpson,  at  Fairfield,  also  in 
the  suburbs,  where  for  the  past  twenty  years,  with 
hardly  an  exception,  but  when  the  weather  has  ren- 
dered it  impossible,  the  few  brethren  and  sisters  have 
met  to  break  the  commemorative  loaf.  It  is  about  as 
isolated  a  place  as  we  often  have  in  the  West,  but  the 
church  does  not  fail  to  remember  its  Lord. 

In  one  hour  the  mail  for  San  Francisco  closes,  and 
I  must  also  close  this  letter,  to  be  in  time.  This  is 
the  last  letter  from  this  region,  as  I  have  engaged  a 
berth  on  the  John  Elder  for  London,  and  expect  to 
leave  here  at  5  P.  M.,  June  24.  In  eight  days  I  shall 
be  on  the  sea,  and,  going  via  Melbourne  and  Adelaide, 
expect  to  see  once  more  Bros.  Haley,  Bates,  Gore  and 


154  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

'others.  When  this  reaches  the  Standard  I  shall  be, 
I  suppose,  on  the  Red  Sea,  and  by  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember I  trust  to  be  once  more  in  my  own  far  West- 
ern home.  The  more  I  see  of  these  Colonies,  the 
more  does  it  become  evident  that  they  are  destined  to 
fill  a  high  place  in  the  affairs  of  this  world.  I  am 
profoundly  thankful  I  have  been  permitted  to  see 
them  in  part,  and  that  my  visit  and  Bro.  Coop's  will 
not  be  in  vain.  It  seem  to  me  a  great  misfortune 
that  all  the  churches  of  Christ  in  America,  Great 
Britain,  and  these  Colonies,  have  not  a  more  intimate 
acquaintance  with  each  other,  for  mutual  encourage- 
ment and  common  work.  . 
I  have  now  done  for  this  time,  but  will  write  once 
more,  if  anything  of  sufficient  interest  calls  for  it. 
Till  then  I  lay  down  my  pen,  and,  now  go  to  other 
work  again  for  the  few  days  which  yet  remain. 

H,  EXLEY. 

NEWTOWN,  SYDNEY,  New  South  Wales,  June  16, 1881. 


LETTER  XIII. 

DARKNESS   GIVING   WAY   TO   LIGHT. 

IT  WAS  the  doctrine  of  Dr.  Thomas,  long  years  ago, 
if  my  memory  is  correct,  that  Christianity  was  the 
religion  of  civilized  man  only,  and  that  we  must  wait 
for  civilization  to  become  the  pioneer  for  the  religion 
of  the  cross.  How  greatly  'the  leaven  of  this  piti- 
less doctrine,  taught  by  many,  may  have  retarded  the 
missionary  spirit  amongst  us,  is  not  easy  to  say;  but 
certain  it  is,  the  logic  of  facts  teaches  quite  another 
thing.  Over  all  these  South  Sea  lands  it  has  been  the 
experience  of  all  who  have  sought  to  begin  from  the 
side  of  trying  to  civilize  them  first,  that  the  only  way 
in  which  civilization  could  come  to  the  savage  was  to 
first  Christianize  him,  and  then  his  civilization  speedi- 
ly followed,  and  that  without  any  special  effort.  Rev. 
J.  Ingliss,  himself  a  missionary,  and  entitled  to  speak 
with  authority,  said  years  ago:  "Indeed,  it  is  clear 
as  day,  that  it  is  only  so  fur  as  Christianity  is  ex- 
tended that  commercial  and  scientific  objects  can  be 
attained  in  these  islands.  It  is  only  Christianity  that 
brings  security  to  life  and  property,  and  develops  the 
industry  of  the  natives  and  the  resources  of  the 
islands."  To  look  upon  the  pictures,  placed  side  by 

side,  of  the  Chri.stiani/rd  native  and  the  unchristian- 

(155) 


156  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

ized  one,  at  once  shows  the  elevating  power  of  the 
gospel. 

In  1810,  or  even  later,  there  was  not  in  all  the 
Pacific  islands  a  single  Polynesian  who  could  read  a 
single  word;  nor  was  there  a  single  printed  word  in 
any  one  of  their  languages.  Fifty  years  after  that, 
and  what  do  we  see?  There  is  seen  sailing,  on  her 
way  to  England,  the  missionary  barque,  the  John 
Williams,  and  carrying  on  board  the  Rev.  G.  Turner, 
with  a  corrected  copy  of  the  entire  Bible,  with 
marginal  references,  for  a  second  edition,  to  be  printed 
in  the  Samoan  language;  the  Rev.  G.  Gill,  with  a 
corrected  copy  of  the  entire  Raratonga  Bible,  for  a 
third  edition,  also  with  marginal  references;  and  had 
it  not  been  for  the  illness  of  another  missionary,  the 
Rev.  A.  Chisholm  would  have  been  on  the  same 
barque,  with  a  corrected  copy  of  the  entire  Bible,  also 
with  marginal  references,  for  a  third  edition,  in  the 
Tahitian  language;  whilst  the  Rev.  J.  Ingliss,  from 
whose  pen  I  have  gleaned  these  facts,  was  on  the 
same  vessel,  with  a  complete  translation  of  the  whole 
New  Testament,  to  be  printed  in  the  Aneityam  lan- 
guage. Since  man  wandered  away  from  God,  as  he 
well  asks  :  "  Was  there  any  single  ship  ever  freighted 
with  three  translations  of  the  entire  Bible,  and  a 
fourth,  of  the  New  Testament,  to  be  printed?"  What 
a  wonderful  commentary  on  the  prediction  of  Isaiah : 
"  He  shall  not  fail,  nor  be  discouraged,  till  He  have 
set  judgment  in  the  earth,  and  the  isles  shall  wait  for 
his  law."  What  a  wealth  of  love  and  compassion 


DARKNESS  GIVING  WAY.  157 

was  here  laid  at  the  Redeemer's  feet,  outweighing  any 
gift  of  thousands  of  silver  and  gold,  that  so  in  some 
measure  He  might  "see  of  the  travail  of  his  soul  and 
be  satisfied."  Besides  these,  many  other  books,  in 
important  departments  of  knowledge,  have  been 
translated  and  printed  in  Polynesian  tongues,  and 
what  is  wonderful  in  itself,  every  word  of  these  lan- 
guages had,  in  great  measure,  to  be  caught  as  it 
floated  rapidly,  and  often  indistinctly,  from  the  lips  of 
the  speaker,  and  the  meaning  of  the  word,  and  the 
whole  structure  of  the  language  in  which  it  had  a 
place,  mastered,  before  the  missionary  could  begin  to 
teach  at  all. 

The  world  has  no  grander  or  nobler  heroes  on  all 
its  manifold  rolls  of  honor,  than  such  men  as  these. 
Their  motto  was :  "  We  can  not  stoop  too  low  to 
save."  I  heard  one  of  our  own  brethren  in  New 
Zealand,  Bro.  Caleb  Wallis,  make  the  remark,  during 
conversation  with  myself  and  Bro.  Coop,  "  I  believe 
in  going  down  into  the  gutter  to  save  men."  The  man 
who  does  not,  has  small  business  to  think  that  he  is 
an  imitator  of  the  Son  of  God.  The  almost  incredible 
ignorance,  filth,  cruelty,  superstition  and  cannibalism, 
with  all  that  the  first  chapter  of  Romans  alleges  of 
the  heathen  world  of  that  age,  which  met  the  mission- 
ary everywhere,  and  through  which  he  had  to  toil, 
shut  off  from  all  society,  an  exile  from  home  and  all 
that  makes  home  so  precious,  in  constant  peril  of  his 
life  —  all  this  demanded  men  and  women  for  the  work 
than  whom  heaven  itself  could  not  find  nobler. 


158  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Sixty  years  ago  the  shipwrecked  sailor  or  passenger, 
thrown  on  these  shores,  had  not  the  least  security  for 
his  life  longer  than  the  time  he  could  hide  himself. 

Even  after  large  progress  had  been  made  on  many 
of  the  islands,  the  missionary  himself  has  fallen  a 
martyr  in  his  work,  to  the  savage  revenge  of  the  na- 
tives, in  retaliation  for  outrages  inflicted  on  them  by 
traders,  who,  whether  they  believed  that  Christianity 
was  only  for  civilized  man  or  not,  did  not  believe  in 
it  for  themselves. 

The  ignorance  met  with  by  the  missionaries,  is 
amusing,  as  well  as  sad.  Hev.  S.  Taplin,  missionary 
in  South  Australia,  says  that  when  he  went  among 
them  the  natives  told  him  that  twenty  years  before, 
when  they  for  the  first  time  saw  a  white  man  on 
horseback,  they  thought  that  the  horse  was  the  white 
man's  mother,  because  he  was  carried  on  its  back  ; 
and  another  tribe,  the  first  time  they  saw  pack-bul- 
locks, thought  they  were  the  white  fellows7  wives, 
because  they  carried  the  baggage.  Their  ideas  con- 
cerning tlie  origin  of  their  different  languages,  are 
just  as  nonsensical.  They  attribute  them  to  the  death 
of  an  ill-tempered  old  woman,  who,  when  living, 
used  to  go  about  and,  with  a  stick  she  always  carried, 
scatter  the  fires  arpuncl  which  others  were  sleeping. 
Men  and  women  came  from  different  places  to  rejoice 
over  her  death,  and  then  fell  to  eating  the  body,  when 
each  company,  as  in  succession  they  shared  in  the 
feast,  at  once  began  speaking  in  another  and  different 
tongue  from  all  the  rest.  Once,  when  speaking  to  an 


DARKNESS  GIVING  WAY.  159 

old  woman,  he  said,  "  We  shall  die,  and  so  will  you." 
She  replied,  "We  shall  die?  Then  let  us  eat  plenty 
of  flour."  So  said  the  Greek  and  Roman  :  '*  Let  us 
eat  and  drink,  for  to-morrow  we  die." 

The  kind  of  work  the  missionary  has  had  to  do  in 
New  Zealand  and  Australia,  and  to  do  which  work  he 
bent  all  his  soul,  was  and  is  a  very  different  thing 
from  going  on  a  mission  to  England,  or  other  civil- 
ized land,  where  he  is  not  only  abundantly  well  sus- 
tained, but  surrounded  by  friends  and  peace,  safety 
and  civilization,  and  with  the  means  of  a  varied 
culture  within  his  reach  but  seldom  or  never  within 
his  reach  at  home.  To  talk  about  self-sacrifice  in 
their  case,  by  the  side  of  missions  in-New  Zealand,  or 
other  of  the  vast  number  of  the  Polynesian  isles, 
is  an  abuse  of  terms.  In  comparison  with  this  work, 
theirs  is  nothing  more  than  a  real  pleasure  trip,  and  is 
as  unlike  the  work  to  be  done  in  these  far-off  lands,  as 
is  the  rest  and  safety,  and  home  comfort,  and  luxury, 
and  manifold  blessings,  which  fill  the  most  favored 
homes  to-day,  to  the  hunger  and  cold,  and  suffering 
and  struggles  of  the  forefathers  of  the  Revolution. 

The  kind  of  work  the  missionary  had  to  do — be- 
sides shutting  himself  off  from  all  civilization  nearly, 
and  living  in  the  midst  of  peril  all  the  time,  but 
intensely  alive  and  active  to  catch  every  floating 
word  and  unravel  its  meaning  —  was  to  learn  the 
great  lesson  of  the  Master  in  all  its  fullness  of  mean- 
ing;  and  at  times,  in  very  deed,  both  the  missionary 
and  his  gentle  but  courageous  helpmeet,  girded  them- 


160  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

selves  with  towels,  to  do  more  than  wash  the  dis- 
ciples' feet!  One  of  the  new  converts  of  Mr.  Taplin, 
a  fine  young  man,  having  set  himself  to  wash  off  the 
grease  and  red  ochre,  which  it  had  perhaps  taken 
months  to  plaster  on,  succeeded  pretty  well  with  his 
body ;  but  when  it  came  to  his  head,  he  failed  utterly, 
and  went  seeking  for  help  to  the  mission  house.  Mrs. 
Taplin  at  once,  with  her  servant  girl,  set  to  work, 
and  getting  a  tub  of  hot  water,  and  soap,  scrubbed 
till  the  stuff  was  cleaned  away,  and  his  really  fine, 
curly  locks  shone  again  in  their  original  brightness. 
The  annals  of  missions  abound  in  such  work.  Some- 
times the  congregations  gathered  into  the  mission 
stations  are  dressed  out  in  the  strangest  and  most  gro- 
tesque style.  Mark  Twain  never  imagined  anything 
more  ridiculous  than  in  mission  stations  is  only  real- 
est  fact.  Some  go  dressed  in  the  common  opossum 
rug;  others,  in  a  double  blanket,  gathered  on  a  stout 
string,  and  hung  around  the  neck  like  a  cloak ;  others, 
with  nothing  on  but  a  blue  shirt,  and  others  again 
with  only  a  woman's  skirt  or  petticoat,  with  the  waist 
of  it  around  the  neck,  and  one  arm  through  a  hole  at 
the  side.  Mr.  Taplin  tells  that,  one  Lord's  day,  a 
tall  savage  walked  into  the  mission  school,  and  grave- 
ly sat  down,  with  nothing  on  at  all  except  a  high- 
crowned  hat  and  a  waistcoat! 

To  undertake  the  redemption  of  such  as  these, 
surely  demands  the  noblest,  the  bravest,  and  the  most 
Christ-loving,  soul-loving,  and  self-sacrificing  men 
and  women  the  churches  have  in  them.  Where 


DARKNESS  GIVING  WAY.  161 

others  would  become  digusted,  then  wholly  discour- 
aged, and  then  ignominiously  leave  the  work  because 
they  _feel  their  own  respectability  insulted  —  or  that 
the  work  is  too  unclean  for  them  to  touch  it — these 
see  in  all  these  dreadful  signs,  so  many  additional 
reasons  to  seek  to  save.  Nor  are  such  required  in  the 
work,  in  any  place  on  earth,  whose  sympathies  with 
the  redeeming  Christ,  and  the  Christ-work  that  needs 
to  be  done,  are  so  small  —  as  I  heard  of  one  expressing 
it — that  they  "  would  rather  live  and  die  slaves  in 
their  native  land,"  than  be  anything  possible  within 
the  gift  of  other  lands.  All  such  as  these  have  no 
business  to  leave  their  homes.  The  work  of  missions 
requires  men  and  women  so  consecrated  to  Christ  that 
they  will  go  with  their  lives  in  their  hands,  as  the 
common  saying  has  it,  and  go  to  live  and  die  in  it, 
but  not  to  give  it  up. 

The  Episcopalian  Church  of  England,  with  all  her 
faults,  has  given  some  notable  examples  of  what  a 
missionary  should  be,  both  in  New  Zealand  and  over 
a  large  number  of  other  islands.  Bishop  Selwyn  and 
Bishop  Coleridge  Patteson,  son  of  the  Right  Hon. 
Judge  Patteson,  whose  family  has  given  some  of  the 
most  accomplished  judges  to  the  English  bench,  and 
who  on  his  mother's  side  was  very  nearly  related  to 
Samuel  Taylor  Coleridge  —  these  men,  reared  in  the 
lap  of  luxury  and  refinement,  yet  gave  themselves  up 
to  the  work  of  missions  in  a  manner  and  with  a  spirit 
impossible  to  any  not  entirely  under  the  inasterhood 

of  the  gospel. 
11 


162  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Bishop  Patteson,  after  having  given  up  all  within 
his  reach  at  home,  and  when,  in  the  midst  of  the  most 
trying  work,  he  had  taken  fair  measure  of  all,  wrote, 
and  in  the  tenderest  words,  thanked  his  father  for 
giving  him  up  to  the  work.  He  said  :  "  It  has  made 
me  more  of  a  man;  I  am  in  my  right  place."  He  was 
content  to  live  in  one  large  room,  built  of  the  kauri 
pine,  with  no  furniture  in  it  except  a  bedstead,  a 
writing-desk  and  an  old  book-case;  to  clean  out  his 
own  room,  make  his  own  bed,  and  to  help  clean  away 
the  things  from  the  table  after  meals.  Yet  he  was 
calm  and  happy,  and  though  thoughts  of  home  were 
constantly  flitting  before  his  mind,  he  wrote  home : 
"  I  like  the  natives  in  the  school  very  much.  The 
regular  wild,  untamed  fellow  is  not  so  pleasant  at  first. 
Dirty,  always  smoking,  a  mass  of  double  blanket,  his 
wigwam  sort  of  place  filthy,  his  food  ditto;  but  then 
he  is  probably  intelligent,  ami  not  insensible  to  the 
advantage  of  hearing  about  religion."  Religious 
teaching  is  the  very  smallest  part  of  the  hard  work 
that  has  to  be  done,  and  he  writes :  "  and  the  difficulty 
is  to  do  for  them  what  parents  have  to  do  for  their 
children,  not  only  in  assisting  them,  but  descending  to 
the  smallest  matters,  washing;  scrubbing,  sweeping, 
and  all  the  acts  of  personal  cleanliness."  He  writes 
home  and  tells  his  friends  that  the  missionary  needs 
to  be  a  carpenter,  mason,  butcher,  and  very  much  of 
a  cook,  as  well  as  something  of  a  glazier,  and  a 
tinker,  to  mend  his  own  kettle  and  saucepan.  In 
visiting,  perhaps  as  many  as  eighty  of  the  various 


DARKNESS  GIVING  WAY.  163 

islands,  in  company  with  Bishop  Selwyn,  it  often 
happened  that  their  little  vessel  could  not  get  in 
shore,  for  the  reef  or  the  surf.  When  such  was  the 
case,  they  would  simply  take  off  their  coats,  and,  tak- 
ing what  tools  they  needed  for  work  in  their  hands, 
plunge  into  the  sea,  and  in  peril  of  life  in  the  sea  and 
on  the  shore,  swim  to  the  land. 

Again  writing  to  his  father,  he  points  out  what 
kind  of  a  man  the  missionary  must  be,  so  well  that  I 
place  it  here,  that  every  missionary  we  have  now,  or 
may  have,  who  shall  read  it,  will,  I  hope,  be  taught 
by  it,  for  there  is  abundant  need  for  it :  "  The  mission- 
ary must  denationalize  himself,  and  eliminate  all  that 
belongs  to  him  as  English,  and  not  as  Christian,  and  he 
himself  not  shrinking  from  the  most  repulsive  offices, 
even  to  carrying  out  the  dead  silently  at  night,  lest 
others  should  see  and  be  alarmed." 

Bishop  Selwyn  would  navigate  his  own  vessel, 
steer  it,  if  need  be,  live  on  the  same  food  as  his 
sailors,  and  lie  on  the  floor  of  his  cabin  for  weeks, 
that  a  sick  native  might  have  his  bed,  and  he  have 
the  joy  of  restoring  him  to  health  and  to  his  friends. 
Thus  they  toiled  and  lived,  until  at  last  Bishop  Patte- 
son,  going  on  shore  on  his  errand  of  mercy,  at  Naka- 
pii,  one  of  the  Santa  Cruz  islands,  was  martyred  in 
his  work,  when  the  villainy  of  white  traders  had  just 
outraged  the  natives  in  abducting  five  of  them  away. 
This  was  as  recently  as  1871.  His  body  was  brought 
off  from  the  shore  immediately,  wrapped  in  a  native 
mat,  with  a  palm  leaf  covering  the  breast. 


164  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  first  missionaries  to  New  Zealand  went  there 
when  it  was  a  land  of  savages,  feasting  on  human 
flesh,  drinking  human  blood,  and  that  for  days  to- 
gether. From  the  pen  of  one  of  these,  I  find  the 
following  :  "  Scenes  like  this  we  have  often  seen.  My 
dear  partner  has  been  on  the  mission  station,  ivith  the 
wives  of  other  missionaries,  when  on  one  morning  as 
many  as  eleven  men  have  been  murdered,  cooked  and 
eaten,  within  sight  of  the  missionary  house.  I  was 
in  the  midst  of  them  alone  (yet  not  alone,  for  God 
was  with  me  to  protect  me)  while  the  bodies  and 
hatchets  of  the  murderers  were  still  wet  with  the 
blood  of  these  slain,  and  while  they  were  preparing 
ovens  for  the  bodies  of  the  victims.  They  danced 
round  me,  and  when  they  had  concluded  their  repast, 
I  preached  to  them."  "  I  have  heard  of  as  many  as 
thirteen  children  being  cooked  in  one  oven  made  of 
heated  stones."  How  marvelous  the  power  of  the 
gospel!  Some  of  these  became  both  humble  Chris- 
tians and  preachers  of  the  gospel.  Much  more  could 
I  say,  but  these  facts  are  enough.  Heathen  missions 
are  calling  upon  us  now  for  our  share  in  the  glorious 
work,  and  the  question  presses  for  answer  : 

"  Shall  we  whose  couls  are  lighted 

With  wisdom  from  on  high, 
Shall  we,  to  man  benighted, 
The  lamp  of  life  deny?" 

But  missions  cost  money.  You  who,  at  home,  have 
all  you  have  as  the  fruit  of  missions  of  a  long  past 


DARKNESS  GIVING  WAY.  165 

age,  you  are  called  upon  to  bring  some  offering,  and 
lay  it  as  your  tribute  at  the  feet  of  the  Redeemer  — 
some  precious  jewel  wherewith  to  adorn  the  Re- 
deemer's crown,  and  help  to  swell  the  "satisfaction" 
of  that  great  heart  which  was  broken  on  the  cross. 
What  shall  it  be?  Don't  forget  that  the  Great 
Arbiter  himself  has  stated  it,  the  talent  that  is  for- 
feited is  the  one  that  has  been  withheld.  Amongst 
the  "  books  opened "  in  that  day,  will  be  the  Book  of 
Missions  —  and  the  Book  of  the  Church ! 

Let  none  offer  to  go,  let  none  be  sent,  but  such  as 
are  ready,  in  the  presence  of  the  cross,  to  lay  all  at 
His  feet.  There  is  no  romance  in  heathen  missions : 
the  work  is  stern  and  all  self-sacrificing,  from  first  to 
last.  To  lay  it  down  because  of  the  deep  degradation 
of  those  it  is  sought  to  save,  is  evidence  both  of 
ignorance  of  the  true  spirit  of  missions,  and  of  utter 
unfitness  for  the  work. 

"  For  whoso  loves  the  Lord  aright 

No  soul  of  man  can  worthless  find. 
All  will  be  precious  in  his  sight, 
For  Christ  on  all  hath  shined." 

The  more  utter  the  lostness  of  the  heathen,  the 
greater  the  need  for  that  nobleness  which  "  counts  all 
things  but  loss/'  that  Christ  may  have  the  "  dominion 
from  sea  to  sea,  and  from  the  rivers  to  the  ends  of  the 
earth."  The  greater  the  difficulties,  the  more  need  to 
say  with  St.  Xavier,  Romanist  though  he  was,  when 
friends  tried  to  dissuade  him  from  undertaking  mis- 


166  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

sionary  work,  by  spreading  before  him  the  dangers  to 
be  encountered  : 

"  Hush  you !    Close  your  dismal  story. 
What  to  me  are  tempests  wild? 
Heroes  on  their  way  to  glory 
Mind  not  pastime  for  a  child. 
Tis  for  souls  of  men  I  'm  sailing! 
Blow  ye  winds,  north,  south,  east,  west. 
Though  the  storms  be  round  me  wailing, 
There  '11  be  calm  within  my  breast." 

The  glory  to  be  won  by  those  who  go  in  the  true 
spirit  of  missions,  in  the  "ages  to  come,"  is  only  to 
be  measured  by  the  brightness  of  the  firmament — of 
the  stars,  and  of  the  sun,  and  it  shall  endure  forever. 

There  are  missionary  crowns  still  to  be  won.  Who 
will  enter  the  lists  to  win?  Who  can  reckon  the 
fullness  of  the  joy  of  those  who  have  sent  forth  labor- 
ers, and  of  the  laborers  who  shall  go,  when  in  the 
great  reaping-day,  they  both  shall  see  that  "  their 
labor  has  not  been  in  vain"?  H.  EXLEY. 


LETTER' XIV. 

OLDEST    LANDS   AND    FOKMS    OF    LIFE. 

HAVING  now  sailed  over  so  many  seas,  and  visited 
so  many  of  these  lands  of  the  great  Pacific,  and 
having  seen  so  much  that  is  wonderful  and  beautiful 
also,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  group  together  a  number 
of  things  in  themselves  of  real  interest,  gathered 
from  many  sources  —  but  all  sources  of  highest  worth* 
—  for  a  better  appreciation  of  what  has  been  seen; 
and  to  put  them  within  as  small  compass  as  may  be. 

Strangers,  indeed,  we  were,  coming  to  these  oldest 
of  all  lands,  with  but  small  idea  of  what  they  would 
be  like,  but  perhaps,  on  that  very  account,  the 
strangeness  and  newness  of  everything  we  saw 
"  lent  enchantment  to  the  view."  Until  the  gospel 
visited,  and  with  its  "  light  of  life  "  lifted  off  at  least 
some  of  the  darkness,  it  was  truly  to  be  said  of  them 
all  that  they  were  lands 

"  Where  every  prospect  pleases, 
And  only  man  is  vile." 

As  we  sailed  over  these  deep  seas,  in  sight  and 
alongside  of,  as  well  as  visiting  many  of  their  shores, 

*  For  most  of  the  facts  in  this,  and  the  last  letter,  which  did  not  come 
under  personal  observation,  the  authors  quoted  from  are  in  every  instance 
men  of  eminence,  as  ministers,  missionaries,  historians,  etc.  — H.  K. 

(167) 


168  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

from  San  Francisco  to  New  Zealand  and  Australia, 
we  were  constantly  impressed  with  the  idea  that  we 
were  journeying  in  regions  where  nature  appears  at 
her  best.  Lofty  mountains  covered  with  forests,  and 
lesser  hills  clothed  in  fadeless  green,  extinct  vol- 
canoes, and  towering  peaks,  often  seeming  to  stretch 
themselves  up  to  the  sky,  as  seen  from  a  distance  at 
sea,  and  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the  white, 
fleecy  clouds  of  heaven,  as  their  snow-covered  sum- 
mits mingled  with  them;  castellated  rocks  rising  up 
from  the  depths,  and  lifting  their  heads  as  if  they 
were  the  appointed  priests  to  offer  up  to  heaven  the 
gathered  incense  of  earth  and  sea,  reminded  one  of 
Coleridge's  hymn  to  the  sunrise  in  the  vale  of  Cham- 
ouni,  and  his  lofty  address  to  Mont  Blanc : 

Rise,  oh !  ever  rise ; 

Rise,  like  a  cloud  of  incense  from  the  earth ! 
Thou  kingly  spirit,  throned  among  the  hills, 
Thou, dread  ambassador  from  earth  to  heaven. 
Great  hierarch !  tell  thou  the  silent  sky, 
And  tell  the  stars,  and  tell  yon  rising  sun, 
Earth,  with  her  ten  thousand  voices,  praises  God. 

The  sea  itself  filled  with  the  strangest  and  most 
antique  forms  of  fish-life;  the  sky,  wondrously  clear 
by  day,  at  night  is  suffused  with  a  soft  and  universal 
glory,  streaming  from  countless  stars  which  stud  it 
over  all  its  vast  expanse;  the  solemn  depths  all 
around  us,  and  a  silence  in  harmony  with  all  that  is 
grand  in  earth,  sea  and  sky  —  one  had  but  to  forget 
for  a  moment  that  "  the  dark  habitations  of  cruelty" 


OLDEST  LANDS.  169 

were  around  us  also,  to  imagine  that  we  had  reached 
almost  to  the  gates  of  "  Paradise  Regained." 

The  depth  of  all  these  seas,  from  San  Francisco  to 
Australia,  whilst  easily  expressed  in  numbers,  is 
almost  beyond  the  power  of  the  mind  to  grasp. 
From  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu,  the  average  depth 
is  about  12,000  feet;  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  to 
New  Zealand*  about  18,000  feet,  and  from  New  Zea- 
land to  Australia,  16,000  feet;  so  that  these  vast 
bodies  of  water  rest  upon,  and  some  of  these  lands 
rise  up  above,  one  of  the  areas  of  deepest  depression 
in  the  world. 

New  Zealand,  rising  from  such  a  profound  depth,  is 
said"  to  furnish  in  its  vegetation,  but  more  especially 
in  its  bird-life,  the  strongest  claim  to  be  considered 
the  oldest  of  all  lands  above  the  face  of  the  deep  to- 
day ;  and  that  it  is  not,  as  is  frequently  supposed,  but 
the  last  remains  of  a  continent,  now  submerged  to 
such  a  depth. 

The  bird-life  of  New  Zealand  is  said  to  carry  us 
back  to  a  time  when  as  yet  the  sea  rolled  over  where 
Great  Britain  now  rises  above  its  waters,  and  when 
the  chalk  of  its  southern  area  was  not  deposited. 

Active  volcanic  forces  are  still  at  work,  and  shocks 
of  earthquakes  are  of  frequent  occurrence,  one  slight 
shock  taking  place  while  we  were  there.  Over  many 
parts  of  New  Zealand,  craters  of  volcanoes,  both 
active  and  extinct,  are  found,  with  boiling  lakes, 
mud-pools,  boiling  springs  and  sulphur  deposits.  The 
Waikato  region  is  especially  remarkable  for  its  boil- 


170  A.  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

ing  lakes,  mud-pools  and  springs,  and  for  its  magnifi- 
cent scenery,  hardly  to  be  surpassed  by  any  in  the 
world.  It  was  our  misfortune  to  be  so  limited  in 
time  that  we  could  only  hear  of  all  this,  and  could 
not  go  to  see.  Volcanic  action  is  so  constant  and 
powerful  that,  on  the  coast-line,  upheavals  and  raised 
beaches  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  Only  lately,  on 
one  of  the  coasts,  and  for  a  considerable  distance, 
both  along  the  shore  and  out  to  the  sea,  such  an  un- 
usual commotion,  with  discoloration  of  the  water,  was 
seen,  that  captains  of  steamers  gave  it  a  wide  berth. 
A  vessel  that  was  stranded  on  one  of  its  coasts  in 
1814,  thirty -five  years  later  was  found  200  yards 
above  high- water  mark,  and  with  a  tree  growing 
through  the  bottom.  If  scientific  conjecture  may  be 
trusted,  it  is  likely  true  that  here  man  stands  on  the 
oldest  surface  of  the  globe  above  the  waters  of  the 
deep;  and  is  still  surrounded  by  some  of  the  most 
antique  forms  of  bird-life,  at  least. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  whilst  the  climate 
and  general  character  of  these  islands  are  highly 
favorable  to  the  existence  of  the  serpent  race,  yet  no 
snake  of  any  kind  is  to  be  found  in  them.  The  same, 
it  is  said,  is  also  true  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Can 
there  be  something  in  the  nature  of  active  volcanic 
forces,  and  too  strongly  influential  in  the  soil  to 
allow  of  their  existence?  Their  absence  is  taken  as 
proof  thlt  New  Zealand  never  formed  a  part  of  Aus- 
tralia, as  some  conjecture,  as  in  that  case  some  forms 
of  serpent-life  which  abound  in  the  latter  country, 


OLDEST  LANDS.  171 

would  be  found  here.  We  were  told  by  a  gentleman 
at  Dunedin,  when  talking  about  this  peculiar  feature, 
that  at  one  time  quite  a  large  number  of  frogs  had 
been  imported,  but  that  every  one  had  died.  We  did 
not  think  of  it  in  time  to  inquire  if  any,  either 
of  frogs  or  snakes,  kept  in  museums  or  gardens,  man- 
aged to  escape  the  influence  which  has  kept  the  coun- 
try clear  of  them  all. 

Man  himself  does  not  seem  to  have  lived  on  these 
islands  beyond  a  few  centuries  back;  not  even  the 
first  comers  —  short,  black-skinned,  woolly-haired 
savages  —  some  relics  of  whom  are  yet  found  in  the 
Southern  island.  There  was  no  lion,  or  tiger,  or  even 
wolf,  in  the  forest,  and  no  serpent  in  the  glade,  to 
molest  him  —  his  only  foe  was  his  brother  savage. 
The  tall,  straight-haired,  muscular  Maorie,  did  not 
reach  the  islands  until  some  time  after  him.  They 
hunted  the  Moa  (Dinorni#  elephantopus) ,  a  bird  with 
nothing  whatever  in  the  shape  of  wings,  but  round- 
bodied,  with  massive  legs,  and  its  head  stretching 
sixteen  feet  above  the  ground.  We  saw  one  or  two 
fossil  specimens  of  this  giant  among  birds,  in  the 
museum.  There  are  still  found  ground-ovens,  in 
which  these  first  possessors  of  these  islands  prepared 
their  feasts.  In  some  of  them,  the  large  bones  of 
these  wingless  birds  are  found,  often  partially  burnt, 
and  mingled  with  them  the  bones  of  human  victims 
also  —  some  of  the  bones  of  the  birds  seemingly  so 
fresh,  that  they  might  have  been  living  almost  with- 
in the  last  half-century.  Dr.  Tristram,  Canon  of 


172  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Durham,  England,  in  a  series  of  papers  on  these  in- 
teresting mutters,  says  that  a  few  years  ago  he  re- 
ceived a  number  of  bones  from  one  of  these  ground- 
ovens —  bones  of  various  birds,  and  amongst  them 
bones  of  at  least  three  young  children.  It  almost 
makes  one  to  tremble,  as  he  thinks  of  the  dreadful 
ages  of  darkness,  cruelty  and  blood,  which  have  over- 
shadowed all  these  fair  lands,  and  from  which  many  of 
them  have  not  yet  emerged. 

One  fact,  discovered  some  years  ago,  is  considered 
pretty  conclusive  evidence  that  the  Afaorie  made  his 
advent  into  New  Zealand  before  these  giant  birds, 
the  Moa,  had  passed  away.  A  Maorie  skeleton  was 
found  in  a  cave,  in  a  sitting  posture,  holding  in  his 
hand  an  entire  egg  of  the  Moa,  a  small  hole  pierced 
in  one  end,  and  held  just  under  the  chin,  supposed  t® 
be  placed  there  to  afford  him  sustenance,  on  his  way 
to  or  in  the  land  of  spirits.  Rev.  R.  Taylor,  said  by 
Canon  Tristram  to  be  probably  better  acquainted  with 
Maorie  history  and  tradition  than  any  other  Euro- 
pean, collected  many  of  the  native  songs,  which  were 
written  out  by  the  collector  more  than  twenty  years 
before  colonization  began,  and  which  relate  to  the 
skill  and  prowess  of  the  Maorie  in  hunting  the  gigan- 
tic Moa.  In  1849,  when  Raupahara,  a  great  native 
chief,  was  buried,  the  one  solitary  feather,  said  to  be 
the  last  relic  of  the  bird  possessed  by  the  tribe,  was 
buried  with  him. 

The  presence  of  the  Maories  does  not  appear  to 
date  back  beyond  some  six  hundred  years  at  most. 


OLDEST  LANDS.  173 

Rev.  R.  Taylor  says  he  perused  the  genealogy  of  one 
of  their  noble  families,  and  it  gave  about  twenty- 
seven  generations  from  the  time  of  their  landing  in 
New  Zealand,  and  that  they  have  even  preserved  the 
names  of  the  canoes  in  which  they  arrived.  Their 
legends  tell  how  they  left  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  a 
fleet  of  canoes,  about  600  years  since,  but  halting  for 
some  three  generations  on  the  road,  at  the  Society  or 
Friendly  Islands,  until  the  land  became  too  strait  for 
them,  provisions  were  scanty,  and  a  new  emigration 
was  compelled  ;  but  taking  with  them  various  tropical 
plants,  such  as  the  sweet-potato,  and  which  will  not 
grow  in  New  Zealand  without  artificial  cultivation. 
Their  language  is  also  said  to  be  proof  of  their  de- 
scent from  the  Sandwich  Islanders. 

There  are  still  here  forms  of  life  which  in  our 
Northern  hemisphere  are  only  found  in  a  fossil  state ; 
and  so,  whilst  New  Zealand  is  conjectured  to  be  the 
oldest  of  all  lands,  and  its  forms  of  life  the  most 
ancient,  it  is  also  conjectured  that  Australia,  with  its 
wonderful  tribes  of  Marsupials,  its  Saurians,  serpents 
and  strange  fishes,  stands  next. 

Tasmania,  only  some  twenty-four  hours'  sail  from 
Australia,  and  separated  by  only  a  shallow  sea,  in  its 
natural  history  is  strictly  Australian,  not  having  so 
much  as  one  peculiar  genus  of  birds  different  from 
Australia.  Even  the  Emu,  of  which  we  saw  living 
specimens  in  the  gardens  of  Melbourne  and  Adelaide, 
has  but  recently  been  exterminated  in  Tasmania,  and 
it  was  identical  with  the  Emu  of  South  Australia.  All 


174  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

\ 

this  is  taken  to  mean  that,  at  some  past  time,  Tas- 
mania formed  a  part  of  the  Australian  main-land. 

There  are  at  least  two  ferocious  wild  animals  pecu- 
liar to  Tasmania  —  the  Tasmanian  tiger,  or  wild-cat, 
many  of  them  still  found  inhabiting  the  mountains, 
and  which  stands  almost  as  high  as  a  greyhound ; 
this  and  the  equally  savage  beast,  the  Tasmanian 
devil,  are  also  Marsupials.  We  saw  fine  specimens 
of  each  in  the  Zoological  Gardens  at  Melbourne. 
One  of  the  brethren  playfully  said  to  me,  when  I  was 
about  to  go  to  Tasmania,  "  Do  n't  you  think  you  had 
better  be  careful  in  going  there?  You  know  that 
they  have  the  devil  there?"  To  whom  I  replied,  "So 
long  as  they  keep  him  safely  in  the  Melbourne  gar- 
dens, I  need  not  fear  him  much." 

The  Fern  Trees,  of  both  Tasmania  and  New  Zea- 
land, are  marvelous  affairs.  We  saw  many  on  the 
lands  of  Bro.  C.  Wall  is.  They  grow  up  like  any 
other  tree;  but  all  that  we  saw  were  at  least  from  six 
to  ten  inches  in  diameter.  At  about  six  feet  from  the 
ground  they  put  out  scores  of  shoots,  each  one  of 
which  goes  straight  up,  but  clinging  closely  to  the 
central  stem,  and  then  puts  out  long,  beautiful  fronds, 
stretching  out  for  many  feet,  and  forming  a  most  de- 
lightful shade.  In  South  Australia,  the  Fern  Tree 
(Todea  Africana)  is  often  five  to  six  feet  in  circum- 
ference. I  saw  many  in  Tasmania,  probably  very 
much  more  than  100  years  old,  and  which,  if  lifted 
out  of  the  ground,  would  weigh  much  more  than 
2000  Ibs.  It  is  said  they  will  bear  transplanting, 


OLDEST  LANDS.  175 

even  the  largest  ones,  to  almost  any  temperate  climate 
in  the  world. 

Tasmanian  sea-coasts  are  especially  rich  in  sea- 
weeds, not  less  than  300  varieties  having  been  al- 
ready classified.  Their  forms,  and  almost  endless 
variety  in  tints  and  colors,  are,  I  think,  if  anything, 
more  beautiful  than  any  land  weeds  or  mosses  what- 
ever. They  seem  to  say  to  us, 

"  Call  us  not  weeds,  we  are  ocean's  gay  flowers, 

For  delicate,  beautiful,  and  bright-tinted  are  we; 
Not  gently  reared  either  in  gardens  or  bowers, 
We  are  rocked  by  the  storms,  we  are  nursed  in  the  sea." 

Passing  from  New  Zealand  and  Tasmania  to  Aus- 
tralia, the  strangest  forms  of  animal  life  are  found, 
the  like  of  which  are  not  found  elsewhere  in  the 
world.  Not  less  than  102  species  of  Marsupials  are 
found,  and  three  Monotremes.  The  Marsupials  have 
not  a  single  ally  or  representative  elsewhere,  save  the 
solitary  exception  of  the  American  opossum.  The 
duck-billed  platypus  and  the  spiny  ant-eater  "  stand 
utterly  alone,  separated  by  an  unbridged  chasm  from 
every  other  quadruped."  "Their  intestinal  parts,  re- 
semble those  of  birds.  They  have  no  teeth,  nor  any- 
thing in  the  place  of  teeth ;  no  internal  ears,  no  teats, 
no.  placenta,  no  Marsupial  pouch,  and  have  a  merry- 
thought like  a  bird.  They  have,  however,  organs 
which  secrete  milk."  All  these  are  regarded  as 
amongst  the  very  first  forms,  or  relics  of  the  very 
first,  of  Mammalian  life  created  on  earth. 


176  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  bone-caves  of  Australia  have  revealed  the  ex- 
istence, in  times  very  far  remote,  of  Marsupial  lions 
and  bears,  which  preyed  on  gigantic  herbivorous 
kangaroos,  one  of  which  had  a  skull  three  feet  in 
length  and  equal  in  size  to  that  of  the  rhinoceros  or 
hippopotamus,  whilst  the  carnassial  tooth  of  its  en- 
emy was  double  the  size  of  that  of  a  modern  lion. 

Kangaroos  still  abound,  and  in  large  numbers  are 
often  hunted  down.  During  my  stay  in  Sydney,  I  read 
in  the  papers  of  two  great  kangaroo  hunts  —  in  one 
of  them,  200  horses,  with  their  riders,  some  of  them 
ladies,  took  part  in  chasing  down  500  kangaroos;  and 
in  the  other,  100  horses,  with  their  riders,  hunted 
down  200  kangaroos.  The  largest  of  them  weighed 
about  200  pounds  each ;  but  some  that  we  saw  in  the 
gardens,  of  quite  that  weight,  seemed  to  leap,  using, 
of  course,  only  their  hind  legs  and  long  tail,  as  if  it 
was  about  as  easy  for  them  to  do  it  as  to  nibble  at 
the  grass  on  which  they  were  feeding.  When  alarmed 
and  escaping  from  their  pursuers,  they  will  leap  as 
much  as  fifteen  feet  at  a  bound,  and  keep  it  up  for 
several  miles,  scarcely  varying  in  the  length  of  each 
leap,  more  than  an  inch  or  two.  Hunted  thus,  it  will 
not  be  long  before  they  are  very  scarce. 

The  bird-life  of  Australia  is  also  unlike  what  is 
found  anywhere  else.  Of  its  630  species,  not  more 
than  one-thirtieth  occur  elsewhere,  not  even  in  India, 
a  country  so  close  at  hand. 

Amongst  the  insects  of  South  Australia,  the  white 
ant  is  a  formidable  pest.  It  builds  its  hill,  often,  to 


OLDEST  LANDS.  177 

a  hight  of  more  than  twenty-five  feet,  and  from  six 
to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  so  strongly  as  to  resist 
the  heavy  tropical  rains;  the  kirger  ones  supposed  to 
be  some  hundreds  of  years  old.  There  are  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  such  hills  in  the  South  Australian 
Colony.  Nothing  seems  to  resist  its  ravages,  short  of 
sheet-iron.  Another  curious  insect,  and  very  destruc- 
tive to  the  timber,  is  called  the  "borer"  and  is  about 
the  size  of  a  common  house-fly.  On  its  head  it 
carries  a  kind  of  auger,  which,  with  considerable 
force,  it  strikes  into  the  timber,  and  then  perform- 
ing a  series  of  rapid  revolutions,  perhaps  a  thousand 
in  a  minute,  bores  a  hole  as  neatly  as  any  carpenter 
could  do  it. 

Some  of  the  trees  of  Australia  will  rival  the  giant 
trees  of  California.  In  Western  Australia,  and  Tas- 
mania also,  the  Eucalyptus  globulus  reaches  a  hight  of 
300  feet,  and  the  Eucalyptus  collosa,  of  Western 
Australia,  400  feet;  whilst  a  fallen  tree  of  the  Euca- 
lyptus amyydalina,  in  the  Dandenong  Mountains, 
Victoria,  measured  420  feet  in  length. 

We  saw  occasionally  hedges  of  Cactus,  and  the 
flower  crowning  a  stem  at  least  twenty-five  feet  above 
the  ground.  We  saw  climbing  plants,  reaching  to 
the  tops  of  trees,  and  coiling  round  the  branches,  and 
grasping  them  with  something  like  the  grip  of  death  ; 
and  on  other  trees,  enormous  masses  of  parasitical 
growths,  quite  as  much  on  single  trees  as  would  fill  a 
wagon  box,  and  growing  at  the  point  where  the 
branch  unites  with  the  main  stem,  and  apparently 


178  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

without  either  roots  or  soil,  with  nothing  but  air, 
light  and  moisture.  One  of  these  especially  attracted 
attention :  its  leaves  were  so  large  and  broad  and  curi- 
ously formed,  and  so  like  the  antlers  of  the  deer,  that 
it  is  called  the  "stag-horn  fern." 

The  snakes  of  Australia  are  numerous,  and  many 
of  them  very  poisonous;  and  the  waters  on  all  the 
coasts  abound  in  the  most  antique  forms  of  fish-life. 
The  octopus  is  often  caught;  but  not  of  very  large 
size.  I  saw  three  which  had  been  just  caught,  their 
arms  from  one  to  three  feet  in  length,  and  quite 
capable  of  drowning  an  incautious  bather.  We  used 
one  as  bait,  when  fishing,  cutting  it  into  small  pieces, 
and  we  found  it  quite  tough  and  leathery,  even  for  a 
sharp  knife.  Sharks  are  very  abundant  in  all  these 
seas,  and  often  of  very  large  size.  When  standing 
with  Bro.  Thos.  Magarey  at  the  end  of  the  jetty  at 
Glenelg,  two  boys  who  were  fishing  with  rod  and 
line  had  caught  over  forty  young  sharks,  and  the 
evening  before  over  thirty,  each  of  them  several 
inches  long.  Wherever  we  went,  whether  on  land  or 
on  the  sea,  we  were  in  the  midst  of  wonders  aquatic 
or  terrestrial,  which  incessantly  proclaimed  — 

"  Earth  with  her  ten  thousand  voices  praises  God." 

Now  that  they  have  passed  away  from  actual  sight, 
many  of  the  scenes  through  which  we  passed  seem  to 
have  "sunk  like  gentle  rain  into  the  heart,  and  the 
memory  of  them  abides  as  a  very  precious  posses- 
sion." The  quiet  beauty  of  the  fruitful  field,  the 


OLDEST  LANDS.  179 

rugged  grandeur  of  the  snow-mantled,  cloud-piercing 
mountain  hight,  the  wild  gloom  of  the  rocky  gorge, 
and  the  mysterious  voice  of  the  solemn  sea,  as  it 
beats  in  ceaseless  pulsations  on  the  rocky  shore;  all 
alike  proclaim  that  God  is  in  all,  and  that  "He  made 
the  sea,  and  the  dry  land  also." 

As  in  thought  we  stand,  again  gazing  at  the  four 
bright  stars  which  form  the  Southern  Cross,  and  be- 
neath whose  glorious  light  all  these  strange  lands 
have  so  long  "  sat  in  darkness,"  and  have  "  dwelt  in 
the  shadow  of  death,"  we  are  made  to  long  for  the 
coming  of  the  time  when  for  all  of  them  it  shall  be 
true  to  the  uttermost:  "Upon  them  hath  the  light 
shined,"  and  that  they  have  turned  to  "seek  Him  that 
make th  the  seven  stars  and  Orion,  and  turneth  the 
shadow  of  death  into  the  morning;''  so  that  when  the 
King  comes  the  second  time,  He  shall  be  welcomed 
with  the  shouts  of  nations  redeemed,  and,  as  it  were, 
carried  in  triumph  to  His  universal  throne,  by  ran- 
somed multitudes  from  these  far-off  "  isles  of  the 
sea;"  and  then  the  ransomed  earth  and  the  sobbing 
sea  shall  alike  share  in  the  joy  of  creation  delivered, 
and  the  redemption  song  shall  be  sung,  "  Now  is 
come  salvation;  now  is  come  the  kingdom  of  our 
God,  and  the  power  of  His  Christ,  and  He  shall  reign 
forever  and  forever."  H.  EXLEY. 


LETTER  XV. 

THE   GREAT   AND    WIDE   SEA. 

INDIAN  OCEAN,     ^| 
Lat.  32°  56'  South,     V  July  7,  1881. 
Long.  111°  24'  East,  j 

As  CAN  be  seen  from  date  and  place,  I  am  once 
more  on  the  bosom  of  the  great  deep.  It  is  now 
thirteen  days  since  our  stately  ship,  the  John  Elder, 
of  the  Orient  line  of  steamers,  left  Sydney,  New 
South  Wales,  and  for  fully  twelve  days  of  that  time 
it  has  been  one  unbroken  storm,  fierce  head-winds 
prevailing  all  the  time.  Our  vessel  is  one  of  the 
largest  afloat,  being  435  feet  in  length,  and  about 
forty-two  in  width  of  beam,  and  of  far  more  than 
4,000  tons  burthen,  yet  it  is  wonderful  how  easily 
this  huge  piece  of  naval  architecture  is  lifted  and 
tossed  and  rocked  to  and  fro  by  the  waves.  Great 
waves,  foam-crested,  and  traveling  with  a  swiftness 
that  is  astonishing  to  behold,  like  regiments  of  white- 
helmeted  war  troopers  in  line  of  battle  rushing  to  the 
charge,  have  unceasingly  beaten  upon  us,  as  if  de- 
termined that  our  journey  should  be  as  comfortless  as 
possible.  We  are  now,  however,  clear  of  the  great 
Australian  Bight  and  its  storms,  and  have  fairly 

entered   upon  the  Indian  Ocean,  having  sailed  nearly 
(180) 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  181 

3,000  miles  since  leaving  Sydney,  and  with  a  journey 
of  some  10,000  miles  yet  before  us.  The  visit  of 
Bro.  Coop  and  myself  to  these  Colonies  is  now  a 
thing  of  the  past,  but  its  memories  will  last  on  into 
the  world  where  all 

"  Sweet  friendships  glow, 
Ceaselessly,  forever." 

To  myself,  the  journey,  with  all  its  providences, 
mercies,  and  precious  friendships  formed,  and  all  its 
opportunities  for  preaching  Christ,  has  been,  and  is 
to  me,  a  wonderful  thing,  having  never  either  desired 
it,  or  sought  it  in  any  way  or  manner.  Its  meaning 
the  future  will  best  reveal.  I  started  on  the  long 
journey  with  the  understanding  that  it  might  be  a 
journey  around  the  world ;  and  to  carry  out  that  pos- 
sibility I  have  preferred  to  return  home  via  London, 
instead  of  San  Francisco. 

At  the  earnest  representations  of  Bros.  Haley  and 
Gore,  whom  I  met  in  Melbourne,  I  was  induced  to 
visit  Newtown,  Sydney,  to  try  and  help  the  church 
there,  which  had  just  lost  the  services  of  Bro.  Lewes, 
who  had  gone  to  Auckland,  New  Zealand.  I  am 
thankful  and  glad  that  I  went.  During  the  ten 
weeks  I  spent  at  Newtown,  sixteen  were  led  to  put  on 
Christ  by  a  personal  self-yielding  to  him,  and  in  the 
way  of  his  own  appointing;  others  awakened,  and  a 
few  were  received  by  letter.  The  congregations  from 
the  first  grew  larger,  until  the  church  was  almost 
filled.  I  am  glad  also  to  say  that  my  leaving  them 


182  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

was  a  deep  regret  to  all.  One  little  incident  at  the 
beginning  of  my  visit  seemed  likely  to  terminate  it 
before  it  had  well  begun.  The  report  had  preceded 
me  that  Bro.  Exley  was  an  Open  Communionist  f  Two 
or  three  good  brethren  waited  upon  me  to  ascertain  if 
this  was  true.  I  at  once  told  them  that  it  was  not 
true,  and  at  the  same  time  said  I  felt  hurt  that  any 
calling  themselves  brethren  should  so  misrepresent 
me,  and  that  as  I  had  not  sought  to  come  and  labor 
amongst  them,  but  was  urged  to  come  to  them  in 
their  pressing  need  of  help,  I  preferred  to  take  the 
next  ship  and  start  for  home,  rather  than  to  be  sub- 
jected to  any  unpleasantness  on  that  question.  I  told 
them  frankly  that,  whilst  I  was  not  in  any  way  a  be- 
liever in  the  unimmersed  breaking  bread  at  the  Lord's 
table,  and  had  not  once  in  all  mv  life-time  ever 
uttered  a  word  at  the  Lord's  table  which  could  lead 
any  one  unbaptized  to  break  bread,  yet  that  I  would 
not  withdraw  the  bread  or  the  cup  from  any  known 
believer,  but  unbaptized,  who,  uninvited,  took  them 
unoffered  as  they  passed  along.  This  was  abundantly 
satisfactory ;  for  whilst  the  brethren  of  Newtown  seek 
earnestly  to  be  faithful  to  the  Lord  in  all  things,  they 
are  neither  needlessly  heresy-hunters  nor  believers  in 
constructive  treason.  It  is  a  good  thing,  when  the 
"logic  of  the  head"  is  not  "  heady/'  but  wedded  to 
that  loving  "  logic  of  the  heart "  which  "  thinketh  no 
evil,"  and  refuses  to  push  to  an  unrighteous  conclu- 
sion the  positions  of  others.  The  Newtown  church 
has  mastered  this  logic.  When  in  England  last,  I 


THE  GEE  AT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  183 

was  asked  by  two  persons  if,  unbaptized,  they  could 
break  bread ;  to  whom  I  answered  that  such  was  not 
the  law  of  the  Lord  Jesus.  That  is  my  position.  I 
afterwards  baptized  them  both. 

My  stay  in  Newtown  was  rendered  very  pleasant. 
Several  little  excursions  were  organized,  to  either  go 
a-fishing  or  to  visit  one  or  other  of  the  many  bays 
near  the  city. 

On  one  of  our  fishing  trips,  we  caught  a  very  rare 
kind  of  fish,  the  local  name  for  which  is  "Box  Fish." 
It  was  about  fifteen  inches  long,  and  fully  the  same  in 
girth,  but  completely  armour-plated  from  just  behind 
the  head  to  within  about  two  inches  from  the  tail, 
which  had  thus  perfect  liberty  of  action  in  all  its 
movements.  When  caught,  the  hard,  bony  substance 
was  quite  variegated  in  color,  and  the  colors  bright ; 
but  by  the  time  the  fish  was  dead,  all  had  faded  to  a 
dull  brown.  We  also  caught  a  large  ray-fish,  with  its 
head  the  shape  of  that  of  an  enormously  large  frog. 

On  some  of  these  excursions  we  gathered  a  little 
sea-weed,  which  really  deserves  the  name  of  sea- 
flowers,  so  beautiful  are  their  forms.  The  coast,  all 
along  the  sea-line,  is  very  rocky  and  broken,  and  the 
surges  come  tumbling  in  from  the  sea  in  long,  rolling, 
great  ridges  of  water,  which,  dashing  high  up  the 
rocks,  have  chiseled  and  fretted  them  out  till  some  of 
them  are  almost  as  beautiful  as  a  cathedral's  "  long 
drawn  aisle  and  fretted  vault." 

On  the  17th  day  of  June,  there  came  to  me  one  of 
those  days  which  come  but  once  a  year  —  a  birth-day. 


184  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Brother  and  Sister  Bardsley,  with  characteristic  hos- 
pitality and  kindliness  of  heart,  invited  quite  a  little 
company  to  spend  the  evening  with  them  in  their  sub- 
urban home,  and  to  make  the  time  a  very  pleasant 
one  to  me.  In  every  home  I  received  a  most  kindly 
welcome,  and  Brethren  Kingsbury,  Bardsley,  Nelson, 
Goode,  West  and  Evans,  each  had  their  little  home 
tea-party,  to  put  as  much  home  sunshine  into  my  life 
as  they  could. 

On  the  Wednesday  evening  prior  to  leaving,  I  gave 
an  address  to  all  the  young  people  connected  with  the 
church  and  congregation,  speaking  from  the  words, 
lf  Run,  speak  to  that  young  man."  "  Teach  the  young 
men  to  be  sober."  "  Teach  the  young  women  .  .  . 
to  be  good."  I  had  a  large  congregation  of  young 
people,  and  members  of  the  church.  The  attention 
was  so  earnest  and  serious  that  we  felt  that  abiding 
good  would  surely  result.  The  same  evening,  as  I 
bade  a  long  good-bye  to  Bro.  Thos.  Andrews  and 
wife  and  family,  they  put  into  my  hand  a  little  token 
of  their  affection  in  the  shape  of  a  very  beautiful 
scrap-book,  beautifully  inscribed,  and  containing  the 
names  of  all. 

On  Thursday  evening,  June  23,  the  church  held  a 
farewell  tea-meeting,  at  which  a  goodly  number  sat 
down  to  tea.  Then  came  the  after  meeting,  presided 
over  by  Bro.  Hawkins,  and  very  pleasing  things  were 
said  by  the  speakers  selected  for  that  hour. 

On  Friday,  at  noon,  June  24,  accompanied  by  Bro. 
Strang  and  sixteen  brethren  and  sisters,  I  went  on 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  185 

board,  whore  we  all  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  each 
other,  perhaps  never  to  meet  again  on  earth  —  they  to 
return  to.  the  busy  affairs  of  this  life,  and  to  the  cares 
and  struggles  to  be  borne  in  the  Master's  work,  and  I 
to  set  my  face  toward  the  far-off  Nebraska  home.  At 
noon  the  last  hawser  was  cast  off,  and  the  strokes  of 
the  engine,  like  the  throbbings  of  a  mighty  heart, 
told  us  we  were  already  beginning  our  long  voyage. 
Hats  were  lifted,  handkerchiefs  were  waved,  and  then 
—  as  the  gulf  widened,  and  headland  after  headland 
was  passed,  Sydney,  and  the  friends  who  had  come  to 
say  good-bye,  faded  from  view;  and  once  more  I  was 
alone. 

Touching  at  Melbourne  for  about  twenty  hours,  I 
hid  the  privilege  of  once  more  seeing  my  own 
brother,  with  Bro.  and  Sister  Haley,  and  a  few 
others.  My  brother,  with  also  Brethren  Haley  and 
Thurgood,  accompanied  me  to  the  wharf.  Bro.  Thur- 
good  is  the  brother,  one  of  whose  sons  is  now  study- 
ing for  the  work  of  the  gospel  in  one  of  our  American 
universities.  He  is  one  who  does  a  large  amount  of 
good  in  a  quiet  way.  The  kindness  shown  to  me  by 
him,  and  also  by  Brethren  T.  Magarey  and  P.  Santo, 
of  Adelaide,  was  of  no  ordinary  kind,  and  I  would 
write  it  here,  but  know  that  so  doing  would  hardly 
meet  their  approval. 

Bidding  them  all  farewell,  I  went  on  board  on^ce 
more,  leaving  Melbourne  at  4  p.  M.  ;  when  in  the  face 
of  head-winds  and  heavy  seas,  we  wended  our  way  to 
Adelaide.  On  the  third  day  after,  we  dropped  anchor 


186  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

off  Glenelg,  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Vincent,  a  few  miles 
from  Adelaide,  and  in  sight  of  the  beautiful  home  of 
Bro.  T.  Magarey.  I  spent  two  hours  on  shore  at 
Adelaide,  taking  lunch  at  Bro.  Gore's,  himself  not  at 
home  —  having  gone  to  meet  me,  and  missed  me.  His 
good  lady,  the  daughter  of  the  Hon.  P.  Santo,  made 
me  welcome,  with  a  kindness  that  was  truly  genuine. 
On  my  return  to  the  ship,  I  found  both  Brethren 
Gore  and  T.  Magarey  waiting  to  see  me,  and  to  bid 
me  God-speed  on  the  journey.  Bro.  Gore  introduced 
me  to  Capt.  Dixon,  the  commander  of  the  "  John 
Elder,"  who  is  also  a  Disciple,  and  a  member  of  one 
of  the  churches  in  Liverpool.  Once  more  the  warm 
grasp  of  the  hand,  the  kindly  "  farewell/'  and  the 
fervent  "  The  Lord  be  with  you,"  and  these  also 
passed  out  of  sight.  It  was  a  very  pleasant  thing  to 
hear  Bro.  Gore,  Bro.  Haley,  and  many  others  at  every 
point  say,  as  they  bade  me  farewell :  "  Bro.  Exley, 
we  shall  be  glad  to  see  you  back  again." 

At  noon,  July  1st,  we  left  Adelaide  also,  and  were' 
soon  again  battling  with  the  unabated  storm,  and 
to  add  to  our  discomfort,  although  the  bulwarks  are, 
I  suppose,  more  than  twenty  feet  above  the  water,  the 
waves  seemed  to  find  it  sport  to  leap  clean  over  them, 
and  send  great  sheets  of  foaming  sea-water  to  the 
very  top  of  the  smoke-stacks,  and,  after  swirling  and 
rushing  along  the  upper  decks,  to  drip  through  and 
through  every  crack  to  the  saloon  beneath,  so  that  for 
days  a  dry  place  was  not  the  most  easy  thing  to  find. 
Several  times,  1  am  told,  oif  these  Australian  coasts, 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  187 

the  waves  have  dashed  over  the  vessel  in  such  volume 
as  to  sweep  all  the  cattle  and  every  movable  thin*; 
overboard.  I  often  found  it  a  source  of  real  pleasure 
to  watch  the  long-winged  albatross  scudding  along 
over  the  waves  and  between  them,  its  long  wings  ap- 
parently now  and  then  touching  the  water,  and  then, 
rising  high  into  the  air,  sail  away,  first  one  way  and 
then  another,  then  round  about  in  a  great  circle,  but 
to  my  sight  scarcely  ever  waving  a  wing,  though  fly- 
ing in  the  very  teeth  of  the  wind.  As  I  thus  watched 
them,  I  thought  of  Dr.  Bonar's  beautiful  words  — 

"  And  these  bright  ocean  birds,  these  billow  rangers, 
The^e  snowy-breasted,  each  a  winged  wave, 
These  tell  me  how  to  joy  in  storm  and  danger, 
When  surges  whiten,  or  when  whirlwinds  rave." 

I  was  hoping  to  be  able  to  write  something  con- 
cerning the  aborigines  of  New  South  AVales,  and  the 
efforts  that  are  being  made  by  earnest  Christian  men 
and  women  to  protect  and  Christianize  them,  but  the 
documents  promised  me  by  Mr.  Palmer,  the  Secretary 
of  the  Society  having  these  objects  in  view,  were  not 
ready  in  time  for  me  to  receive  them.  I  expect  Mr. 
Palnier  to  forward  them  to  me  to  Nebraska.  The 
census  returns,  however,  for  South  Australia,  show  a 
total  of  5,628  for  that  Territory,  in  1881.  Of  these, 
3,189  are  males  and  2,439  females.  Since  1876  there 
have  been  recorded  411  deaths  and  301  births,  mak- 
ing a  net  decrease  of  110  in  five  years.  Sickness  is 
prevalent  among  them  to  a  great  extent,  no  less  than 
959  adults,  out  of  a  total  of  3,777,  being  unwell  or 


188  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

infirm.  On  the  other  hand,  the  children  are  not 
numerous,  the  total  number  being  only  892.  The 
end  of  this  race  does  not  appear  to  be  far  off.  In  the 
other  colonies  they  are  diminishing  at  a  still  more 
rapid  rate.  It  is,  however,  a  possible  thing  that  the 
efforts  of  good  men  and  women  to  protect  and  Chris- 
tianize what  are  left  of  them,  may  avert  the  extinc- 
tion which  now  seems  only  too  possible.  I  am 
informed  by  my  fellow-passenger,  Rev.  F.  S.  Poole, 
that  a  fair  measure  of  success  has  attended  the  efforts 
of  the  Episcopalians,  and  that  quite  a  number  may  be 
considered  as  really  redeemed  men  and  women.  AVith 
others  of  them,  however,  little  or  nothing  can  be 
done.  From  one  or  two  newspaper  leading  articles  I 
saw,  but  failed  to  procure,  if  these  were  at  all  a  fair 
statement  of  facts,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  that 
even  now,  in  the  vast  territory  of  Queensland,  the 
most  cruel  wrongs  are  often  inflicted  on  the  natives. 

JULY  16th.  —  Australia,  New  Zealand  and  Tas- 
mania are  very  far  from  me  as  I  write  —  lands  of 
marvelous  resources,  accomplishments  and  possibili- 
ties, all  of  them,"  and  far  exceeding  any  power  of 
mine  to  adequately  set  forth,  yet  still  with  the  usual 
drawbacks  which  seem  to  accompany  human  selfish- 
ness, and  enormous  legislative  blundering,  as  well  as 
some  belonging  to  climate,  soil  and  seasons. 

On  the  night  of  July  10th  we  had  the  good  for- 
tune to  see  one  of  those  very  rare  sights,  a  perfect 
lunar  rainbow.  It  is  not  easy  to  describe,  being 
about  as  like  to  the  rainbow  of  the  sun  and  the  day, 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  189 

as  is  the  pale,  dead  face  of  a  beautiful  child,  to  the 
light  and  joy  and  laughter  and  warm  life-tints  of  that 
face  when  living.  Imagine  a  dead  rainbow  —  all 
there  except  its  living  glories;  perfect  in  form,  but 
cold,  ashy-colored,  with  the  faintest  touch  possible  of 
the  colors  fled  —  and  you  have  the  lunar  rainbow. 

On  the  20th  of  July  we  crossed  the  Equator,  the 
heat  exceedingly  oppressive,  and  nothing  to  break 
the  monotony.  We  are  now  fully  5,400  miles  from 
our  last  Australian  port,  Adelaide ;  but  over  all  this 
vast  distance  we  have  seen  but  one  other  vessel  be- 
sides our  own.  How  truly  great  is  "  the  great  and 
wide  sea!" 

For  the  past  few  nights  we  have  been  favored  with 
what  to  us  is  a  most  welcome  sight  —  the  North  Star 
has  become  visible  to  us  again,  and  we  have  the 
splendid  constellations  of  the  Great  Bear  in  the 
North,  and  of  the  Southern  Cross  in  the  South,  shin- 
ing upon  us  at  the  same  time.  It  is  a  very  rest-giv- 
ing thing  here  to  remember  that,  "  He  knoweth  their 
number  and  calleth  them  all  by  their  names  —  not 
one  faileth"  —  as  if  they  were  but  so  many  sheep, 
pasturing  upon  the  blue  fields  of  heaven,  and  that 
vast  as  is  this  "  great  and  wide  sea."  "  He  holds  the 
winds  in  His  fists,  and  the  waters  in  the  hollow  of 
His  hand." 

On  Friday,  the  22nd  of  July,  we  sighted  the  first 
land  since  leaving  Australia  —  Cape  Guardafui,  Abys- 
sinia; but  the  pleasure  felt  at  the  sight  was  almost  de- 
stroyed by  the  high,  hot  winds,  and  the  "  no  small 


190  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

tempest "  which  "  lay  on  us."  Our  voyage  over  the 
lied  Sea  was  full  of  the  realest  physical  discomfort, 
from  first  to  last  —  either  hot  head- winds  or  none  at 
all,  being  the  case  the  whole  four  days  we  were  on  it, 
the  water  itself  being  eighty-eight  degrees.  Several 
.of  our  poor  fellows  were  brought  up  from  the  stoke- 
hole in  a  deadly  swoon.  One  strong  young  man,  a 
passenger,  volunteered  to  do  duty  for  one  of  the  men 
for  one  watch,  but  at  the  end  of  four  hours  he  was 
brought  up  insensible.  Mr.  J.  L.  Young,  a  gentle- 
man well  known  to  many  of  our  brethren  in  Ade- 
laide, and  who,  after  spending  aboat  thirty  years  in 
the  Colonies,  was  returning  to  end  his  days  in  Eng- 
land, through  the  excessive  heat,  was  smitten  with  an 
apoplectic  fit,  and  never  rallied.  Walking  about  on 
the  deck  early  in  the  morning  —  at  9  o'clock  in  the 
evening  we  buried  him  in  the  Red  Sea.  It  was  very 
impressive  to  hear  the  ship's  bell  toll  out  its  solemn 
funeral  tones,  as  the  moment  of  burial  drew  near. 
The  body  was  placed,  after  due  preparation  on  a 
board,  with  the  feet  out  toward  the  sea,  at  the  open 
port  of  the  after  square,  and  covered  with  the  ship's 
ensign  —  its  great  red  cross  answering  well  to  the 
dead  man's  form.  The  captain  and  a  large  number  of 
the  officers  and  passengers  gathered  around  the  scene. 
The  Episcopalian  funeral  service  was  tenderly  and 
impressively  read  by  Mr.  Poole.  At  the  moment 
when  the  body  was  about  to  be  committed  to  the 
deep,  the  low  call  of  the  boatswain's  whistle  was 
heard,  and  the  engines  at  once  stood  still ;  and  as  the 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  191 

words,  "  We  therefore  commit  his  body  to  the  deep," 
fell  from  the  minister's  lips,  the  body  was  gently 
raised  up  by  four  strong  servants  of  the  ship,  and 
suffered  to  slide  from  beneath  its  red-cross  covering 
into  the  solemn  waters  beneath.  One  short  sound,  as 
of  a  "  gulp,"  was  heard,  when  he  at  once  sank  beneath 
and  beyond  the  action  of  the  screw-propeller,  the 
sighing,  sobbing  sea  shrouding  him  'round,  and  all 
was  over.  The  boatswain's  whistle  again  gave  out  its 
subdued  call,  and  in  response  our  ship  moved  rapidly 
on  her  way,  leaving  our  friend  to  sleep  in  the  waters 
of  the  Red  Sea  until  that  time  when  "  the  sea  shall 
give  up  the  dead  which  are  in  it."  No  flowers,,  placed 
by  gentle  hands,  will  adorn  his  grave  —  only  the 
white  foam  of  the  crested  billow, 

"  The  daisy  of  the  sea," 
and  the  hundred-fold  beautiful 

"  Rainbow  of  the  spray," 

flung  there  by  the  fingers  of  the  sun,  will  beautify 
his  place  of  rest. 

On  the  28th  of  July  the  distant  peaks  of  Sinai 
came  into  view,  and  remained  visible  for  many  hours. 
To  sail  over  the  Red  Sea,  with  the  coast  of  Egypt 
visible  on  the  left  and  the  lofty  summit  of  Sinai  visi- 
ble on  the  right,  is,  to  the  believer,  a  very  suggestive 
thing.  Egypt,  with  its  olden  time  civilization,  its 
cruel  bondage ;  the  Red  Sea,  with  its  wonderful  re- 
demption for  Israel;  Sinai,  with  its  law  "written  and 


192  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

engraven  on  stones/7  efficient  to  condemn,  but  not 
efficient  to  pardon  the  transgressor  —  all  spoke  to  me 
of  deliverance  from  the  bondage  of  sin,  of  the  Red 
Sea  of  redeeming  blood,  and  of  our  own  personal 
self-surrender  to  the  leadership  of  our  great  Deliverer 
and  redeeming  Lord;  when  we,  being  "baptized  into 
Jesus  Christ/'  were  "  baptized  into  his  death,"  the 
law  of  condemnation  passed  out  of  sight,  and  I  joy- 
fully exclaimed,  "  There  is,  therefore,  now  no  con- 
demnation to  them  who  are  in  Christ  Jesus; 'for  the 
law  of  the  Spirit  of  life  in  Christ  Jesus  hath  made 
me  free  from  the  law  of  sin  and  death." 

From  our  first  sighting  the  coasts  of  both  Asia  and 
Africa,  until  leaving  them,  nothing  but  a  dreary  deso- 
lation of  rock  and  sand  met  our  gaze  —  hundreds  of 
miles  of  unbroken  desert,  with  lofty  mountains  far 
back  in  the  interior.  The  long  belt  of  sand  along  the 
entire  line  of  the  horizon,  as  the  sun  pours  down 
upon  it  his  fierce  rays,  presents  the  illusive  appear- 
ance of  long  golden  stretches  of  a  summer  evening 
sky  just  before  the  sun  goes  down,  and  the  distant 
mountains  present  the  appearance  of  patches  of  cloud, 
with  lines  and  bands  of  light  between.  The  illusion 
is  so  perfect  that  it  is  difficult  at  times  to  feel  sure 
that  it  is  all  solid  rock  or  shifting  sand.  Occasion- 
ally the  white  tents  of  some  Arab  encampment,  as  if 
erected  close  to  the  sea,  gave  a  pleasing  variety  to  the 
scene,  and  set  us  all  wondering  how  they  could  live 
in  such  a  desert  as  that. 

On  our  arrival  at  Suez,  no  sooner  had  we  dropped 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  193 

anchor  than  we  were  besieged  by  a  fleet  of  small 
boats,  their  Arab  owners  intent  on  trading  and  getting 
gain.  Merchants  with  feathers,  robes,  lace  and  small 
wares,  came  on  board.  Hanging  their  boat-hooks  on 
any  ledge  the  side  of  the  ship  offered  them,  they 
pulled  themselves  up  hand  over  hand,  sticking  their 
shoeless  toes  against  the  smooth  iron  about  as  fear- 
lessly as  if  they  had  found,  cut  out  on  purpose  for 
them,  a  flight  of  steps. 

I  had  often  read  of  Arab  extortion,  and  so  I 
watched  them  with  a  tireless  interest.  Their  eyes, 
bright  and  restless,  seemed  to  miss  nothing;  their 
ceaseless  chatter  as  they  sought  to  sell  their  wares  had 
a  charm  for  me  that  was  fascinating,  and  so  I  wan- 
dered up  and  down  the  deck  from  one  to  another,  to 
see  how  these  dark-skinned  children  of  the  desert 
could  manage  to  fleece  the  honest  trading  whites! 
They  will  likely  enough  take  advantage  when  they 
have  the  chance ;  the  very  thing  they  very  rarely  get. 
Extortion  !  I  saw  a  large  number  of  sales  take  .place, 
but  whilst  in  every  case  the  vendor  was  ready  to  take 
a  very  large  reduction  from  his  own  price,  I  did  not 
see  one  case  where  the  original  price  asked  was  too 
much,  judging  by  trade  transactions  elsewhere.  The 
extortion  was,  as  I  thought,  all  on  the  side  of  the 
whites.  As  a  sample  of  Arab  extortion,  I  saw  fifteen 
links  of  beautiful  coral  beads  offered  for  seventy-two 
cents;  thirty-six  cents  was  offered  —  and  taken.  No 
wonder  that  they  are  nearly  naked,  and  that  Arab 

beggars  abound. 
13 


194  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  journey  through  the  Suez  Canal,  about  ninety- 
three  miles  in  length,  was  one  hot  torture  during  the 
whole  twenty-four  hours  occupied  in  passing  through 
it.  The  glaring  sands  on  either  side  seemed  to  fling 
back  at  us  the  superheated  rays  of  the  sun,  as  if 
they  delighted  to  torture.  Occasionally  the  monotony 
was  broken  by  groups  of  Arabs  engaged  in  dredging 
or  widening  the  canal ;  or  a  family  of  Arabs  en- 
camped on  the  burning  sands,  their  camels  laid  down 
at  rest. 

On  Saturday,  the  30th  of  July,  we  reached  Port 
Said,  a  city  created  by  the  canal,  where  we  had  the 
gratifying  privilege  of  a  few  hours'  run  on  shore. 
Port  Said  is  a  hard  place.  Blind  beggars,  crippled 
beggars,  sick  and  creeping  beggars,  beggars  young 
and  old,  lazy  Arabs  stretched  out  their  full  lengths 
on  side- paths  and  other  shady  places  —  the  streets 
filled  with  vendors  of  small  wares,  with  here  and 
there  Egyptian  women  veiled  from  just  below  the 
eyes  to  the  knees  with  a  black  veil,  a  chain  of  large 
gold  or  gilt  rings  passing  down  the  center  of  the  fore- 
head to  the  nose,  and  each  carrying  a  large  water-jar 
on  the  head,  in  the  most  perfect  equilibrium  —  all 
these,  and  other  things,  combined  to  produce  a  picture 
not  soon  or  easily  to  be  forgotten.  To  add  to  the 
charm  of  it  all,  one  has  but  to  reflect  that  he  stands 
on  Egyptian  soil,  or  rather  sand  ;  and  that  the  feet  of 
Abraham,  Isaac  and  Jacob,  and  Joseph  and  his  breth- 
ren, may  have  pressed  upon  it;  and  over  it,  perhaps, 
have  been  driven  many  of  the  weary,  suffering  sons 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  195 

of  Israel,  urged  on  under  the  blows  of  the  task- 
master's rod.  Here  again  it  seemed  to  me,  that  the 
"  extortion "  practiced  was  by  no  means  all  on  the 
side  of  the  Arabs.  I  was  often  asked  for  alms,  but 
never  persistently.  Once  or  twice  "  No/7  kindly  but 
firmly  spoken,  was  sufficient. 

At  Port  Said  we  took  on  board  some  600  tons  of 
coal,  every  pound  of  which  was  put  on  by  the  Arabs, 
with  perhaps  a  few  Nubians  amongst  them,  the  black- 
est of  all  black  men  I  ever  saw,  but  tall,  lithe  and 
straight  as  an  arrow.  This  large  quantity  was  all 
lifted  in  about  five  hours.  It  was  a  strange  sight  to 
me,  to  look  upon  these  lightly  built  but  wiry  and 
strong  men,  carrying  such  heavy  burdens  in  rush 
baskets  on  their  backs  between  the  shoulders,  with  a 
rag  wrapped  'round  the  head,  the  ends  of  it  falling 
behind  so  as  to  help  to  protect  the  neck  and  shoul- 
ders, and  in  many  cases  with  only  a  shirt  to  protect 
them,  and  in  some  scarcely  that.  They  walked  over 
the  rough  coals  under  their  heavy  burdens  in  their 
bare  feet,  and  kept  up  an  incessant  clatter  of 
tongues.  When  any  one  had  any  instructions  to  give, 
remark  to  make,  or  question  to  ask,  it  was  always 
done  with  the  right  hand  stretched  out. 

There  were  two  different  tribes  engaged  on  one 
boat,  not  a  wise  arrangement  at  all ;  for  if  one  of  each 
tribe  got  to  blows,  it  was  the  signal  for  a  general  free 
fight,  and  it  was  quite  startling  to  witness  the  fierce- 
ness with  which  they  suddenly  sprang  upon  each 
other.  This  kind  of  pastime  was  indulged  in  two  or 


196  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

three  times,  which  set  me  to  thinking,  that  if  any- 
thing like  that  was  a  common  occurrence  at  the  build- 
ing of  the  Tower  of  Babel,  no  wonder  they  speedily 
left  off  and  went  their  several  ways. 

A  long  and  very  heavy  plank  fell  on  the  side  of 
one  of  them,  knocking  him  down,  and  apparently 
hurting  him  so  much  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty 
he  could  rise  to  his  feet  again.  I  feared  at  first  that 
his  back  was  broken.  Having  got  up  again,  he 
quietly  folded  his  arms  across  his -breast,  with  the 
hands  on  the  shoulders,  when  another  strong  young 
man  went  behind  him,  put  his  arms  around  his  neck, 
and  grasping  his  hands  firmly,  then  put  his  right 
knee  against  the  injured  one's  back  and  gave  him  a 
severe  wrench  in  the  direction  opposite  to  that  in- 
flicted by  the  falling  plank.  A  rather  curious  piece 
of  surgery,  truly;  but  the  injured  young  man  at  once 
went  to  his  heavy  duty  again.  At  Suez  a  goodly 
number  of  us  bought  the  long-tasselled  red  Turkish 
fez,  which,  as  a  matter  of  course,  we  put  on,  and  a 
red-headed  lot  we  looked.  Being  exceedingly  weary 
and  far  from  well,  I  laid  me  down  for  a  little  while 
on  the  cushioned  seats  of  the  cabin,  putting  my  fez  on 
the  table  by  my  side.  While  thus  resting,  although 
it  was  not  yet  dinner  time,  mine  was  stolen. 

As  we  steamed  through  the  Suez  Canal,  Arabs 
sometimes  ran  along  the  bank,  shouting  for  "  back- 
sheesh,"  with  only  a  single  garment  on,  and  that  held 
so  as  not  to  impede  their  running.  It  was  on  our 
arrival  in  Egyptian  waters,  we  first  heard  the  astound- 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  197 

ing  news  of  the  attempted  assassination  of  President 
Gen.  Garfield.  The  grief  and  consternation  caused 
by  this  intelligence  was  general  all  through  the  ship, 
and  the  most  fervent  hopes  and  desires  were  ex- 
pressed that  he  might  speedily  recover,  and  the  crimi- 
nal meet  with  a  prompt  retribution.  At  Naples  the 
first  questions  asked  were  all  about  the  President. 

At  5  P.  M.,  July  30,  we  left  Port  Said  and  its  half- 
naked  Arabs,  and  in  a  short  time  we  were  sailing  over 
the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean,  with  strong 
head-winds,  and  oppressively  warm.  Capt.  Dixon 
was  very  kind  to  me,  offering  in  the  kindliest  way  any 
little  extra  comfort  the  vessel  afforded.  He  is  a  very 
popular  commander,  and  stands  high  in  the  estimation 
of  all.  Passing  by  Candia,  on  Monday,  Aug.  1,  on 
Thursday,  the  4th,  we  had  a  kind  of  field  day  from 
about  3  A.  M.  to  12  p.  M.,  passing  in  review  in  that 
time  some  of  nature's  grandest  wonders.  Shortly 
after  3  A.  M.  I. was  up,  and,  first  taking  a  bath,  I  hur- 
ried on  deck,  and  through  the  dull  gray  of  the  early 
morning,  saw  the  distant  form  of  the  mighty  ^Etna. 

As  the  light  broadened  out,  clouds  of  smoke  or 
steam  were  clearly  seen  to  be  issuing  from  its  crater. 
On  the  east  it  seems  to  slope  away  to  the  sea,  but  on 
the  west  a  large  retinue  of  lofty  lava  mountains 
stretch  for  a  long  distance,  each  one  running  in  huge 
ridges  down  into  the  sea;  but  every  nook  and  corner 
where  a  vine  can  grow  seems  to  be  turned  to  account, 
and  a  large  population  is  scattered  all  over  these 
almost  inaccessible  places. 


198  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

Then  came  the  Straits  of  Messina  —  Sicily  on  our 
left  and  Italy  on  our  right,  and  both  very  close  to  us, 
for  the  straits  are  very  narrow,  and  made  narrower 
still  to  all  unlawful  rangers  of  the  deep  by  strong 
forts  and  heavy  ordnance  to  protect  them.  To  assail 
Sicily  or  Italy  at  this  narrow  point,  will  demand  a 
"  striving  "  of  no  ordinary  kind.  As  we  sailed  quietly 
between  these  beautiful  shores,  I  thought  of  the 
"  strait  gate  and  narrow  way  that  leadeth  unto  life." 
Not  long  after  losing  sight  of  the  vine-clad  slopes  of 
Mount  JEtna,  Stromboli  loomed  up  before  us,  vol- 
umes of  smoke  rising  from  its  summit.  On  its  west- 
ern side  an  enormously  wide  and  deep  channel  is 
visible,  down  which  the  rivers  of  lava  have  poured 
themselves  into  the  sea.  On  the  base  of  the  northern 
slope  some  1,200  people  have  their  homes.  Stromboli 
rises  up  out  of  the  sea  as  one  gigantic  cone,  as  if  dis- 
daining fellowship  with  any  besides,  whilst  away  in 
the  distance  many  other  cones  of  huge  proportions 
are  scattered  up  and  down.- 

As  the  evening  closed  in  around  us,  the  grand  form 
of  Vesuvius  arrested  all  eyes,  and  although  quiet 
now,  the  mountain  is  still  giving  signs  of  unextin- 
guished  fires.  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  are  each 
but  a  few  miles  away,  and  bear  witness  to  its  destrue- 
tive  energy.  We  were  favored  during  the  whole 
night  in  seeing  on  its  topmost  cone  what  to  us  looked 
like  a  magnificent  "  pillar  of  fire/'  and  during  all  our 
stay,  after  the  morning  had  come,  a  glorious  "pillar 
of  cloud  by  day."  As  we  passed  slowly  up  the  Bay 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  199 

of  Naples,  which  is  nearly  seven  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, at  nearly  midnight  there  suddenly  flashed  upon 
us  from  two  vessels  in  the  harbor,  electric  lights  of  a 
most  brilliant  character.  Whether  done  to  give  us 
welcome  or  to  show  off  the  beauties  of  the  city  and 
its  entire  surroundings,  I  know  not,  but  as  the  lights 
fell  upon  the  Castle  of  St.  Elmo,  and  slowly  swept 
over  the  city,  the  shipping  and  the  bay,  the  effect  was 
indescribably  beautiful.  Everything  seemed  to  be 
bathed  in  a  flood  of  strange  light,  not  golden  or 
roseate  at  all,  but  a  sort  of  weird  compound  of  un- 
utterable blue  and  green,  and  a  brilliant  mist  of 
dazzling  white  and  purple  tissue.  I  think  that  no 
one  of  us  who  witnessed  this  will  ever  forget  it. 

Next  morning,  accompanied  by  a  friend,  I  went  on 
shore  for  two  hours.  Of  course,  nothing  worthy  the 
name  of  a  visit  was  possible  in  that  time ;  but  we  lost 
no  time.  Naples  was  before  us,  and  we  struck  for  the 
center  of  the  city.  "  See  Naples  and  die/7  is  often 
written  and  spoken.  All  right,  for  those  who  wish  to 
do  so,  but  I  do  not  wish  to  die  there.  Seen  from  the 
bay,  with  its  Castle  of  St.  Elmo  on  its  lofty  hight, 
from  whence,  in  revolutionary  times,  cannon  have 
sent  shot  into  the  city,  and  its  palace  and  other  public 
buildings  to  the  left,  and  far  to  the  right  its  long  line 
of  very  handsome  brick  buildings,  formerly  used  as  a 
granary,  but  now  as  barracks  for  troops  —  the  domes 
and  towers  which  stud  the  city  in  all  directions,  the 
palatial  residences  visible  on  the  vine-clad  hills  be- 
hind the  city,  and  stretching  around  the  bay,  with 


200  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

smoke  and  fire-crowned  Vesuvius  towering  over  all 
—  thus  seen,  no  pen  can  do  it  justice.  Seen  from  the 
inside  of  the  city,  the  scene  is  changed  indeed. 
Theaters,  churches,  statuary,  paintings,  fountains, 
grand  as  these  all  are,  the  streets  are  so  narrow,  the 
houses  so  high  —  six,  seven,  and  even  eight  stories; 
the  people  can  almost  shake  hands  from  opposite 
sides  —  the  crowds  of  poorly  dressed,  thin  and  care- 
worn looking  people,  the  close,  unsavory  atmosphere, 
"  Ichabod  "  will  as  well  depict  it  as  any  other  word. 
We  wandered  the  length  of  many  streets,  but  the 
most  comfortable  looking  of  all  the  people  we  met 
were  the  crown-shaven  or  rope-girdled  priests  and 
monks.  We  walked  behind  one  of  these  well  pro- 
portioned gentlemen,  a  priest  or  monk,  around  whose 
ample  throat  was  wound  a  collar  —  I  suppose  it  once 
was  white,  but  now  about  the  color  of  the  lava  sold 
in  the  shops.  We  never  saw  a  book-store,  or  the 
semblance  of  one,  except  a  shabby  little  book-stall  in 
one  of  the  public  open  spaces,  and  seemingly  with 
nothing  in  it  but  songs  and  paper-covered  volumes  of 
plays,  nor  did  a  single  picturesque  costume  meet  our 
eyes.  We  were  glad,  indeed,  to  see  Naples,  even  the 
little  we  did,  but  having  seen  so  much  of  it,  I  con- 
cluded that  the  best  .place  in  which  to  die,  is  not  there. 
The  beggars  of  Naples  are  the  most  pertinacious, 
the  boldest  and  most  insolent  I  ever  saw.  Young 
girls  thrust  into  my  bosom  small  bouquets  of  flowers 
and  boxes  of  matches,  and  so  adroitly  that  it  was 
difficult  to  get  rid  of  them.  Finding  that  we  could 


THE  GREAT  AND  WIDE  SEA.  201 

not  be  induced  to  give  or  buy,  they  turned  away  at 
last,  wishing  us  a  speedy  journey  to  the  place  from 
whence  they  suppose  Vesuvius  draws  his  supplies. 
We  had  a  whole  tribe  of  small-ware  merchants  come 
on  board.  Extortionate  enough  they  often  were  in 
their  first  charges,  yet  about  as  well  checkmated  by 
their  customers  as  is  at  all  desirable.  It  appeared  to 
me,  that  it  is  with  them  as  with  the  Arabs,  the  very 
small  price  obtained  for  anything  they  sell,  must  help 
to  crush  them  down  and  make  beggars  of  them  all. 

At  1  P.  M.,  Aug.  4,  we  steamed  out  of  the  harbor, 
leaving  its  beautiful  waters  and  the  crowded  city  to 
those  who  shall  come  after,  and  in  a  short  time  we 
were  outside,  and  Vesuvius,  with  its  ceaseless  pillars 
of  fire  and  smoke,  and  this  region  of  wonders  were 
left  behind.  In  a  few  days  more  we  hope  to  be  in 
England,  from  whence  this  will  be  posted  to  the 
Standard.  One  more  letter,  and,  the  Lord  willing,  I 
shall  be  HOME.  H.  EXLEY. 

OFF  CAPE  FINISTERRE,  Aug.  9, 1881. 


LETTER  XVI. 

BOUND  FOR  COUNTRY  AND  HOME. 

BAY  OF  BISCAY,  Aug.  10, 1881. 

Leaving  the  Bay  and  City  of  Naples,  as  mentioned 
before,  and  utterly  wearied  with  the  long  day's  pleas- 
ure and  ceaseless  activity,  I  was  glad  to  find  relief 
and  rest  in  sitting  down  to  write. 

On  the  third  day  after  losing  sight  of  Mount  Vesu- 
vius, on  Lord's  day  evening,  just  before  the  sun  went 
down,  we  were  all  delighted  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the 
bold  Rock  of  Gibraltar.  To  unnautical  eyes,  dis- 
tances at  sea  are  very  deceptive.  Although  our  good 
ship  was  running  according  to  the  "  log"  about  thir- 
teen miles  an  hour,  it  was  a  long  time  after  first 
sighting  the  famous  "  Rock  "  before  we  were  close  to 
it.  Approached  from  the  east,  it  presents  a  very 
close  resemblance  to  a  couchant  lion,  but  by  the  time 
we  were  fairly  abreast  of  it,  the  darkness  of  the  even- 
ing had  gathered  around  us,  and  instead  of  the  grim 
fortress,  with  its  instruments  of  death  frowning  upon 
us,  the  lights  of  one  or  two  lighthouses  flashed  upon 
us,  as  out  of  benevolent  eyes,  their  assurance  of  peace 
and  safety. 

The  Bay  of  Biscay,  of  deservedly  evil  reputation 

in  sailor  song  and  story,  though  by  no  means  calm, 

(202) 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  203 

was  not  severely  stormy  as  we  sailed  over  it,  but  just 
rough  enough  to  remind  us  that,  notwithstanding  the 
bigness  of  our  ship,  we  were  after  all  "  but  a  feeble 
folk." 

Mr.  Plimsol,  the  merchant  sailor,  and  the  success- 
ful contender  in  the  British  Parliament  for  protection 
to  the  sailor,  asked  of  Sir  Charles  Adderly,  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Board  of  Trade,  "  what  number  of  ves- 
sels had  been  lost  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay  since  the 
adoption  of  the  'load-line'  act  (Mr.  Plimsol's  meas- 
ure), and  what  number  in  the  corresponding  period 
preceding."  Sir  Charles  Adderly  replied  that  "  from 
February,  1874,  to  February,  1875,  before  the  adop- 
tion of  the  '  load-line/  twenty -six  steamers  and  176 
lives  were  lost  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay;  but  from  Feb- 
ruary, 1875,  to  February,  1876,  since  its  adoption, 
only  two  steamers  and  twenty-six  lives  were  lost." 
(Engineer's  Manual,  1877.)  There  is  much  other 
work  for  other  Plimsols  to  do,  before  all  the  avoid- 
able terrors  of  the  sea  are  removed. 

From  Naples  to  London  is  about  eight  days'  good 
sailing  —  the  monotony  constantly  broken  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  ships  bound  to  their  several  ports,  and 
the  last  two  days  by  the  letter  writing  to  friends  and 
preparations  to  go  on  shore.  A  few  hours  before 
touching  at  Plymouth,  we  were  all  delighted  to  see, 
away  off  to  our  right,  the  Eddystone  Lighthouse,  a 
splendid  testimony  both  to  the  noblest  benevolence 
and'  to  man's  masterhood  of  the  sea.  From  Ply- 
mouth, where  we  sent  on  shore  a  number  of  pas- 


204  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

sengers  and  the  mails,  all  the  way  up  to  Gravesend, 
the  scenery  is  very  beautiful,  and  to  us,  who  had  seen 
little  else  than  the  blue  sea  and  the  star-studded  sky 
for  seven  weeks,  it  suggested  thoughts  of  "  the  beau- 
teous land/'  and  "  the  light  that  never  was  on  sea  or 
shore;"  and  our  thoroughly  clean  and  newly  painted 
and  well  trimmed  ship,  safely  now  at  home,  gave  very 
lively  hints  to  many  of  us  of  "  the  abundant  entrance 
into  the  everlasting  kingdom/'  when  the  voyage  of 
life  is  safely  over.  As  we  passed  up  to  our  anchorage 
ground,  the  waters  literally  alive  with  shipping,  we 
passed  an  American  vessel  of  war,  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  floating  at  her  stern.  I  had  never  seen  the 
great  flag  look  so  beautiful  before.  I  did  not  know 
that  I  so  deeply  loved  it  till  then,  and  almost  in- 
voluntarily I  sprang  to  the  side  of  the  ship  and 
waved  it  a  hearty  "  three  cheers." 

At  noon,  Saturday,  Aug.  13,  hiring  a  small  boat, 
and  bidding  the  captain  and  a  few  friends  "  good- 
bye," I  left  the  John  Elder,  and  in  one  hour  was 
rolling  away  on  the  cars  from  Gravesend  to  London, 
where  I  arrived  in  time  for  a  hearty  welcome  from 
Bro.  Black,  who  had  come  up  from  his  sea-side  visit 
on  purpose  to  meet  me,  Sister  Black  remaining  there 
with  the  younger  members  of  the  family.  Bro.  Black 
is  now  retired  from  business,  and  as  an  elder  in  a 
Christian  Church,  he  has,  so  far  as  known  to  me,  but 
few  equals.  He  is  not  only  aapt  to  teach,"  but  now 
spends  nearly  as  much  time  in  actual  pastoral  work, 
visiting  the  members  of  the  church,  as  he  formerly 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  205 

devoted  to  business.  He  is  an  example  to  rich  men, 
such  as  I  do  not  know  another.  Twenty  years  ago, 
when  laboring  in  London  as  an  evangelist,  his  hos- 
pitable home  was  mine.  He  generously  sustained  me 
out  of  his  own  purse,  and  took  care  that  I  was  never 
shabbily  clothed.  So  freely,  heartily,  and  lovingly 
was  this  done,  that  although  I  was  their  guest  this 
way  for  several  times  and  several  months  at  a  time, 
after  I  left  England  and  made  my  home  in  the  West- 
ern States,  I  received  from  them  a  letter,  telling  me 
that  they  never  regretted  my  presence  in  their  home 
for  a  moment.  Few,  indeed,  are  the  things  that  have 
been  sweeter  to  me  in  this  life,  than  this.  Years  are 
now  whitening  the  heads  of  both  Bro.  and  Sister 
Black,  but  their  hands  do  not  slacken  in  the  Master's 
work,  and,  taken  all  in  all,  such  loving,  ceaseless, 
self-sacrificing  toilers,  Bro.  Black  in  the  church,  and 
Sister  Black  in  the  Sunday-school,  and  in  all  good 
works,  I  have  never  met  in  one  church  again.  Surely, 
their  crown  will  be  a  crown  of  life. 

I  remained  but  some  three  days  in  London,  visiting 
in  that  time  some  of  the  faithful  ones,  whom,  in  years 
long  gone  past,  it  was  my  privilege  to  help  to  find  the 
truth  as  it  is  in  Jesus,  and  to  baptize  into  the  sacred 
names.  Amongst  other  visits,  I  went  to  see  Bro.  J. 
B.  Rotherham,  with  whom  I  had  a  most  delightful 
stroll,  and  chat  about  many  things,  along  the  Thames 
embankment  as  far  as  the  Cleopatra's  Needle.  Years 
begin  to  tell  on  him ;  hard  study  and  hard  work  and 
much  care  are  silvering  his  locks — whitening  them 


206  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

for  the  harvest-home.  His  New  Testament  is  not 
half  well  enough  known  to  the  brethren  in  America; 
it  corresponds  very  exactly  in  many  of  its  renderings 
with  the  Revised  Version.  It  will  likely  be  found 
that  in  him  Bro.  Moore  will  have  an  able  coadjutor 
in  the  most  serious  work  he  has  ever  undertaken  —  in 
seeking  to  plant  a  church  in  London. 

From  London  I  went  at  once  to  Southport,  receiv- 
ing a  warm  welcome  from  Brethren  Moore  and  Garri- 
son especially  —  the  latter  of  whom  I  had  never  seen 
before.  He  is  far  from  being  strong,  and  the  work 
on  his  hands  is  far  from  being  free  from  care  and 
anxiety.  On  the  two  Lord's  days  I  spent  in  South- 
port,  I  preached  for  him,  once  in  the  morning  and 
twice  of  an  evening.  Bro.  Coop,  I  did  not  think  was 
looking  as  well  as  when  he  left  Adelaide  in  Australia. 

During  my  stay  in  Southport,  which  was  but  a  few 
days  at  intervals  apart,  it  was  my  privilege  to  meet,  in 
company  at  Bro.  Coop's,  Mr.  Henry  Varley,  of  Lon- 
don, whose  evangelistic  fame  is  known  around  the 
whole  world.  During  some  three  hours,  I  think, 
with  the  open  New  Testament  in  our  hands,  and  in 
company  with  an  Episcopalian  clergyman  visiting  at 
Bro.  Coop's,  we  had  a  long  and  exceedingly  interest- 
ing conversation  as  to  the  relations  in  which  the  law 
and  the  gospel  mutually  stood  toward  each  other. 

The  deeply  calm,  reverent  and  earnest  spirit  of  Mr. 
Varley  takes  one  captive  almost  at  once.  Churches 
built  up  under  such  a  ministry  as  his  can  not  fail  to 
be  churches  full  of  spiritual  power.  It  may  be  that, 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  207 

under  God,  such  a  man  cooperating  with  Bro.  Moore 
in  the  double  work  of  the  pulpit  and  the  press,  if 
faithful  to  the  whole  truth  —  compromising  in  noth- 
ing—  these  two  will  be  enabled  to  inaugurate  and 
carry  on  the  most  glorious  reformation  work  that 
London  and  England  have  seen  for  many  a  day.  The 
brethren  will  be  justified  in  looking  for  large  results. 

On  Thursday  evening,  Sept.  1,  the  church  at  South- 
port  held  one  of  those,  at  all  times,  very  pleasant 
gatherings,  a  social  tea-meeting,  after  which,  Bro. 
Garrison  in  the  chair,  several  speeches  were  made, 
when  Bro.  Coop,  on  behalf  of  the  church,  presented 
a  very  beautiful  time-piece  to  Bro.  and  Sister  Moore. 
The  church  in  Southport  grows  but  very  slowly,  and 
at  present  is  far  from  being  a  strong  church — the  dif- 
ficulties which  have  lain  in  its  path  have  neither  been 
few  nor  feeble.  The  congregations  are  thin,  a  result 
of  those  difficulties ;  and  rich  and  deeply  spiritual  and 
powerful  as  is  the  preaching  of  Bro.  Garrison,  it 
will  be  slow  work  to  carry  the  battle  to  a  worthy 
victory. 

Bro.  Garrison,  as  chairman  of  the  meeting,  referred 
in  touching  terms  to  the  wounded  President,  and 
spoke  of  Mrs.  Garfield  in  the  most  graceful  manner 
as  "  Our  uncrowned  Queen."  The  feeling  in  Eng- 
land toward  President  Garfield  hardly  ever  had  its 
parallel.  Men  who  were  never  in  America,  and  never 
expect  to  be,  could  scarcely  utter  his  name  without 
tears  in  their  eyes  and  a  tremor  in  the  voice.  God 
grant  that  the  future  may  ever  find  that  one  heart  and 


208  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD.     „ 

soul  may  live  and  throb  in  both  nations,  as  if  they 
were  but  one  people. 

On  Monday  evening,  Sept.  5,  the  newly  planted 
church  in  Liverpool  also  had  its  tea-meeting  —  when 
quite  a  large  company  sat  down  to  tea.  Brethren 
Moore,  Garrison,  Van  Horn,  a  Baptist  minister,  but 
whose  name  escapes  me,  with  also  Bro.  Newington 
and  myself  were  present.  Bro.  Garrison  presided 
over  the  meeting.  An  address,  beautifully  illumin- 
ated and  framed,  and  couched  in  terms  which  must 
have  been  very  grateful  to  both  Bro.  and  Sister 
Moore  (for  she  was  also  present),  was  presented  to 
them,  on  behalf  of  the  Liverpool  church,  by  Bro. 
Edmund  Rowson,  whom,  with  his  excellent  wife,  it 
was  my  joy  to  baptize  into  the  faith  of  Jesus  when  la- 
boring at  Birkenhead,  a  little  more  than  a  year  and  a 
half  ago.  Bro.  and  Sister  Moore  go  to  London  rich 
in  the  affections  of  many.  There  are  elements  of  real 
ability  in  the  church  at  Liverpool  —  young  men  pious 
and  devoted ;  but  whether  Bro.  Moore  has  done  a 
wise  thing,  so  far  as  Liverpool  is  concerned,  to  go 
away  to  another  field  just  at  this  particular  time,  the 
future  alone  can  reveal.  It  may  be  seriously  doubted. 
It  was  delightful  to  see  so  large  a  membership,  and 
apparently  all  in  real  earnest  and  happy.  I  attended 
the  services  one  Lord's  day,  presiding  at  the  table  in 
the  morning,  Bro.  Newington  speaking  to  the  church, 
and  my  impression  was  that  he  will  improve  on  ac- 
quaintance, for  he  spoke  quite  well,  and  without  any 
notes. 


ROUND  FOR  HOMK.  209 

In  the  evening,  Bro.  Van  Horn,  from  Chester,  was 
the  preacher.  The  large  room  was  well  filled,  and 
with  an  intelligent  and  earnestly  listening  audience. 
Bro.  Van  Horn  is  a  speaker  of  no  mean  order.  I  at- 
tended also  a  week  evening  meeting,  and  was  very 
much  pleased  to  see  such  a  goodly  number  of  the 
members  present,  many  of  them  having  come  a  rather 
long  distance  to  be  there.  Altogether,  the  work  in 
Liverpool  appears  to  be  good ;  but  after  all,  we  think 
it  a  mistake  that  Bro.  Moore  could  not  remain  for  a 
few  months  longer. 

On  Wednesday,  Sept.  7,  bidding  good-bye  to  Bro. 
and  Sister  Moore,  Bro.  and  Sister  Coop,  Sister  Haigh, 
and  many  others,  accompanied  by  Bro.  Garrison,  I 
left  South  port,  and  at  4  p.  M.  was  on  board  the  steam- 
ship "  England,"  bound  for  the  great  Western  land 
once  more.  Old  Father  Cavan,  one  of  the  elders  of 
one  of  the  Liverpool  churches,  and  over  eighty  years 
of  age,  came,  having  walked  three  miles  to  see  me,  to 
say  once  more  "  farewell."  Twenty  years  ago,  all 
unknown  to  himself,  he  gave  me  a  lesson  on  preach- 
ing which  has  never  been  forgotten.  Requested  to 
preach  one  evening  during  the  sessions  of  the  An- 
nual meeting,  by  the  desire  of  brethren  in  whose 
judgment  I  had  all  confidence,  I  preached  from  the 
words,  "  The  weak  things  of  the  world,"  etc.,  putting 
into  the  discourse  quite  as  much  of  science  as  of 
Christ.  The  wise  old  brother  said  to  one  who  told 
me  his  words,  "  Bro.  Exley  will  never  do  for  Liver- 
pool ! "  Shortly  afterwards,  having  to  preach  in  the 
14 


210  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

same  place  again,  the  subject  chosen  was,  "  God  mani- 
fest in  the  flesh/'  The  theme  was  Christ  —  from  be- 
ginning to  end,  Christ.  With  tears  in  his  eyes  and 
great  earnestness  in  his  manner,  he  spoke  once  more, 
and  said:  '*  Bro.  Exley  is  just  the  man  for  Liver- 
pool!" Since  then  I  have  not  ceased  to  teach  and  to 
preach  Christ.  Bro.  Cavan  and  old  Bro.  Corf,  one 
of  the  truest  saints  of  earth,  and  also  one  of  the 
elders  of  the  oldest  church  in  Liverpool,  are  both 
now  nearly  at  the  journey's  end.  The  sweet  inter- 
course of  twenty  years  ago  was  renewed,  and  I  visited 
first  with  one,  and  then  with  the  other.  Both  in- 
tensely Christ-loving,  they,  with  Bro.  Tickle,  grudged 
no  toil  or  self-sacrifice,  that  His  name  might  be 
carried  to  the  poorest  and  humblest.  In  all  my  own 
work  of  tract  distribution  to  thousands  of  homes,  in 
all  my  cottage  preachings  and  out-door  efforts  to 
spread  the  knowledge  of  the  Saviour;  they  gave  their 
help  and  encouragement,  like  men  who  with  all  the 
heart  believed  that  the  name  of  Jesus  Christ  was  the 
only  bond  and  link  between  earth  and  heaven.  It 
was  a  very  glad  thing  to  know  that  much  of  the 
fruit  of  that  time  abides  in  the  Liverpool  churches 
to-day.  There  are  densely  populated  streets  where, 
standing  alone,  and  with  by  no  means  ungrudged  per- 
mission, on  the  door-steps  of  some  cottage  house,  I 
have  read  out  a  chapter,  patiently  waiting  till  a  little 
company  had  gathered  around  me,  and  then  sought  to 
unfold  to  them  the  riches  of  redeeming  grace.  Once, 
when  thus  engaged,  a  well  dressed  but  badly  intoxi- 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  211 

cated  man  came,  and  taking  his  place  just  in  front 
of  me,  became  very  noisy  and  annoying.  Deeply  feel- 
ing the  solemnity  of  my  mission,  I  suddenly  ad- 
dressed him,  and  said,  "Sir!  I  have  a  message  from 
God  to  you."  He  blundered  out,  "Well,  what  is 
it?"  I  answered,  "Drunkards  shall  not  inherit  the 
kingdom  of  God."  The  effect  was  instantaneous  — 
he  never  opened  his  lips  again,  but  stood  to  the 
end  of  the  service,  and  then  quietly  walked  away. 
Those  days  are  gone  now — days  they  were  of  hard 
toil,  of  loving  sympathy  and  earnest  cooperation,  and 
of  some  fruit  that  still  abides. 

Bro.  Newington's  field  of  labor  is  far  away  re- 
moved from  the  other  churches ;  they  might  cooperate, 
but  the}T  are  too  remote  from  each  other  to  unde- 
signedly  hinder. 

Bro.  Newington,  Sister  Rowson,  and  a  few  others, 
came  on  board  for  a  final  adieu;  and  then,  as  our 
ship,  the  "  England,"  swung  'round  to  the  turning  of 
the  tide,  the  anchor  was  raised,  and  Liverpool  quickly 
faded  away  in  the  distance,  perhaps  never  to  be 
visited  by  me  again. 

The  voyage  to  New  York  was  without  special  in- 
cident. We  had  a  very  large  passenger  list,  of  all 
grades.  It  was  very  stormy  at  times,  but  to  me  quite 
enjoyable.  From  Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  to  Lon- 
don, and  from  London  to  New  York,  though  often 
unwell,  sea-sickness  was  unknown.  On  the  Friday 
evening  two  days  before  landing  in  New  York,  a 
ship's  newspaper  was  started  in  our  salocn,  and  never 


212  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

before  have  I  known  how  truly  frivolous  a  number  of 
intelligent  people  can  be  when  so  disposed.  On  the 
Saturday  evening,  by  way  of  thanksgiving  for  our 
safe  voyage  across  the  stormy  Atlantic,  a  number  of 
them  kept  up  song  and  dance  until  midnight.  At 
about  5:30  p.  M.,  Lord's  day,  Sept.  18,  I  was  safely  on 
shore,  being  also  met  by  Bro.  William  Neal,  of  Liver- 
pool, whose  father  is  a  deacon  in  one  of  the  Liver- 
pool churches,  and  who  came  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
truth  under  my  labors  there  twenty  years  since. 
Very  shortly  after,  a  very  cordial  Christian  welcome 
was  given  me  by  Bro.  and  Sister  Carr,  at  whose 
always  hospitable  home  my  stay  was  made  for  the 
twenty-six  hours  I  remained  in  New  York.  I  was 
fortunately  in  time  to  attend  the  special  prayer-meet- 
ing appointed  in  the  church,  and,  at  the  request  of 
Bro.  Carr,  gave  a  short  address.  A  letter  from 
home  urged  me  to  lose  no  time,  on  account  of  the 
serious  sickness  of  my  wife,  and  so  I  took  the 
Monday  evening  train  for  the  West,  arriving  at  my 
own  home  on  Thursday  evening,  Sept.  22,  just  one 
year  and  five  days  after  leaving  it,  anot  knowing 
what  should  befall  me."  I  found  my  dear  wife  very 
sick  indeed.  She  is  better  now.  All  the  rest  I 
found  well.  I  am  led  sometimes  to  think  that  more 
strange  providences,  and  mercies  and  struggles  have 
been  mine  than  those  of  any  one  I  have  ever  known, 
and  am  often  tempted  to  sketch  out  an  autobiography, 
with  photographs  of  men  and  things  in  the  churches, 
with  some  others,  as  I  have  known  them. 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  213 

A  few  paragraphs  more,  and  this  letter  will  end  the 
series,  which,  with  all  their  faults,  have  consciously 
nothing  extenuated, 

"  Nor  set  down  aught  in  malice." 

Bro.  Coop  and  myself,  wherever  we  went  and  what- 
ever we  saw,  sought  to  go  simply  as  Christian  men, 
and  to  see,  not  as  either  Englishmen  or  Americans, 
but  to  see  things  as  they  were,  and  if  we  said  any- 
thing concerning  them,  to  say  what  was  just  and  true. 
I  could  easily  illustrate  the  evil  that  has  been  done,  in 
more  places  than  one,  by  drawing  contrasts  between 
England  and  America,  with  the  tone,  manner  and 
matter  disparaging  to  the  former.  The  evil  done  is 
done  quietly,  but  is  almost  incurable,  and  wherever 
done  by  a  preacher,  either  one  way  or  another,  it 
proves  a  blighting  influence  on  his  work. 

On  the  17th  of  Sept.,  1880,  as  my  sons  were  cutting 
hay,  about  noon  the  sickle  broke,  compelling  one  of 
them  to  go  to  Lincoln  to  get  it  repaired.  Had  it  not 
broken,  he  would  not  have  gone.  Had  he  not  gone 
just  when  he  did,  or  had  the  sickle  broken  on  the 
previous  d&y,  this  letter  and  all  the  rest,  and  all  this 
strange  and  wonderful  journey,  would  not  have  been. 
Breaking  when  the  sickle  did,  it  sent  one  of  my  sons 
to  the  Lincoln  post-office,  to  find  there  for  me  the 
following  telegram :  "  Meet  me  at  Omaha  to-morrow 
at  12  A.  M.  Take  ticket  for  San  Francisco,  and  I  pay 
expenses. — T.  COOP."  After  receiving  it  late  in  the 
evening,  on  hearing  it  read,  my  wife  exclaimed: 


214  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

"  The  Lord  permitted  that  sickle  to  break  just  when 
it  did."  In  about  sixteen  hours  afterwards,  I  had 
packed  my  valise,  taken  an  hour  or  two's  sleep, 
traveled  seven  miles  through  storm  and  heavy  roads 
to  Lincoln,  and  some  eighty  miles  to  Omaha.  Stand- 
ing on  the  platform  of  the  station  at  Omaha,  Bro. 
Coop  said :  "  Before  we  start,  let  us  understand  each 
other.  How  are  we  going?  I  pay  expenses,  and 

you "  "  And  I  give  my  life  and  time  and  strength, 

free,"  was  my  response.  And  thus  we  started,  each 
with  the  single-hearted  desire  that  in  some  way  the 
Lord  would  make  it  fruitful  of  good. 

The  soul  of  Bro.  Coop  may  be  clearly  read  in. this: 
When  fairly  on  the  journey,  I  said:  "Bro.  Coop,  you 
seem  to  me  very  much  like  the  man  in  the  gospels,  as 
fur  as  this  journey  is  concerned  —  he  began  to  build, 
you  know,  without  counting  the  cost."  He  looked 
amused  as  well  as  thoughtful,  and  said:  "/haven't 
counted  the  cost!"  Bro.  Exley  responded:  "But  I 
have,  and  you  can't  take  me  this  long  journey,  with 
all  its  incidental  expenses,  for  less  than  about  £300! 
That  is  a  very  large  sum  of  money,  and  much  as  I 
love  the  idea  of  the  journey,  and  especially  of  seeing 
Palestine,  I  don't  feel  justified  in  allowing  you  to 
spend  so  much  money  on  my  account.  I  would  much 
rather  you  sent  me  to  Jersey  Island  to  try  and  estab- 
lish a  mission  there,  and  I  will  go  and  make  it  a  life 
work,  and  £300  will  go  a  long  way  toward  fairly  giv- 
ing it  a  starting."  After  a  moment's  reflection,  he 
said :  "  I  do  not  care  for  the  money,  if  we  only  can  do 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  215 

good."  We  sought  always  and  only  to  do  good.  If 
we  failed,  it  was  not  the  aim  of  either  intention  or 
effort. 

As  we  voyaged  between  America  and  New  Zealand, 
we  made  it  a  part  of  every  morning's  duty,  and  it  was 
from  the  first  a  delightful  privilege,  to  read  together, 
chapter  after  chapter,  the  Acts,  each  making  his  own 
penciled  notes,  and  then  comparing  them.  Starting 
with  the  idea  that  the  Acts  reveal  what  was  specially 
said~and  done  under  the  immediate  government  of  the 
Holy  Spirit,  and  that  it  embraces  the  infallible  his- 
tory of  the  church  for  a  period  of  over  thirty  years, 
we  were  struck  with  the  fact  that,  nowhere,  under  any 
circumstances,  is  there  such  a  thing  as  even  a  hint 
that  Jesus  had  ever  instructed  his  disciples,  or  that 
they  had  ever  so  understood  him,  that,  the  plenitude 
of  the  Holy  Spirit  and  of  power  having  come,  and 
that  full  redemption  being  now  accomplished  through 
the  one  sacrifice  on  the  Cross,  they  must  there- 
fore teach  the  people  (the  Jews)  to  forsake  Moses,  or 
cease  to  offer  their  accustomed  sacrifices  in  the  tem- 
ple, or  to  abstain,  as  Christians,  from  anything  com- 
manded in  the  law.  We  noted  that,  had  anything 
been  said  on  the  day  of  Pentecost  that  could  by  any 
possibility  have  been  tortured  by  the  "  mockers,"  as 
against  the  law,  the  newly  born  "Christian  common- 
wealth could  not  have  had  "favor  with  all  the  peo- 
ple" We  noted  the  facts  of  the  third  chapter,  that 
Peter  and  John  had  no  scruple  against  going  up 
to  the  temple  to  participate  in  its  solemn  service 


216  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

at  the  hour  of  prayer,  and  that  in  his  second  sermon, 
Peter  declared  that  Jesus  had  been  sent  to  bless 
them,  not  in  turning  them  away  from  Moses  and  the 
law,  but  "  from  their  iniquities."  We  noted  the  fact 
that  when  arrested  and  brought  before  the  Sanhedrim 
—  that  body  of  men  so  hungry  for  the  overthrow  of 
the  Name  —  they  were  not  charged  with  being  in  any 
sense  teachers  seeking  to  turn  the  people  to  a  forsak- 
ing of  the  law,  or  the  service  it  required ;  but  "  the 
priests,  and  the  captain  of  the  temple,  and  the  Saddu- 
cees  came  upon  them,  being  sore  troubled,  because 
they  taught  the  people  and  proclaimed  in  Jesus  the 
resurrection  of  the  dead."  Not  less  than  5,000  men 
in  Jerusalem  believe,  but  not  one  of  them  even  sus- 
pects that  the  law  is  being  set  aside,  and  the  Sanhe- 
drim "  let  them  go,  finding  nothing  how  they  might 
punish  them."  We  saw  that  twice,  as  recorded  in  the 
fifth  chapter,  were  "the  apostles"  arrested,  and  put 
in  prison  or  brought  before  the  Council,  but  the  only 
thing  alleged  against  them  was  that  they  continued  to 
teach  in  the  forbidden  name.  All  this  being  utterly 
beyond  reasonable  credibility,  if  the  apostles  had 
at  any  time  taught  one  thing  that  would  weaken  the 
force  of  the  law,  or  that  such  men,  evidently  watch- 
ing how  they  might  destroy  the  apostles,  should  have 
let  them  go,  the  more  so  as  the  apostles  directly 
charged  upon  them  the  crucifixion  of  the  Prince  and 
Saviour,  endorsed  and  sealed  by  the  Holy  Ghost. 
Nay,  more  :  "  Every  day  in  the  temple"  as  well  as  at 
home,  they  ceased  not  to  teach  and  to  preach  Jesus 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  9-17 

Christ.  We  wondered  what  certain  modern  u  keepers 
of  the  temple,"  who  talk  about  "the  light  that 
streams  from  the  sanctuary,"  would  say  to  the  re- 
corded fact  that  "  a  great  company  of  the  priests  be- 
came obedient  to  the  faith,"  and  of  not  one  of  them  is 
it  said  that  he  forsook  the  law  of  his  fathers,  or  gave 
up  his  customary  service  in  or  at  the  temple;  nor 
even,  if  being  of  the  class  whose  services  consisted  of 
singing  in  the  temple  choir,  and  of  playing  upon  in- 
struments of  music,  were  they  called  upon  to  do  such 
service  no  more.  Here  was  "  light  streaming  from 
the  sanctuary"  indeed;  revealing  such  a  gentleness  in 
the  gospel,  and  such  large-hearted  love  in  even  the 
most  "  zealous  for  the  law  "  adherents  to  the  gospel, 
that  no  jar  is  felt  in  the  church  of  many  thousands, 
nor  is  there  even  a  well  grounded  suspicion,  in  the 
mind  of  either  believing  or  unbelieving  Jew,  that  the 
law  was  being  secretly  or  openly  taught,  or  set  aside, 
as  of  no  further  requirement  to  the  Jew.  Every  at- 
tempt to  fasten  on  the  apostles,  or  any  of  the  first 
proclaimers  of  the  gospel,  the  charge  of  seeking  to 
subvert  the  law  of  Moses,  utterly  fails.  We  also  ob- 
served how  that,  with  emphasis,  James  the  apostle 
and  the  elders  that  were  with  him  in  Jerusalem,  said 
to  Paul :  "  Thou  seest,  brother,  how  many  thousands 
(myriads)  there  are  among  the  Jews  which  have  be- 
lieved; and  they  are  all  zealous  for  the  law;  and  they 
have  been  informed  concerning  thee,  that  thou  teach- 
est  all  the  Jews  which  are  among  the  Gentiles  to  for- 
sake Moses,  telling  them  not  to  circumcise  their 


218  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

children,  neither  to  walk  after  their  customs.  We 
have  four  men  which  have  a  vow  on  them  (believers?) 
These  take  and  purify  thyself  with  them,  and  be 
at  charges  for  them,  that  they  may  shave  their  heads, 
and  all  shall  know  that  there  is  no  truth  in  the  things 
whereof  they  accuse  thee;  but  that  thou  thyself  also 
walkest  orderly,  keeping  the  law"  (R.  V.).  And 
Paul  went  and  ciid  it !  We  marveled  that  the  Mother 
Church  of  all  churches,  under  the  very  eyes  of  the 
apostles  at  Jerusalem,  and  under  the  very  govern- 
ment and  direction  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  should  at  the 
end  of  thirty  years  after  Pentecost,  not  have  a  man  in 
it  but  who  was  "  zealous  for  the  law;"  and  that  the 
apostles  themselves,  with  Paul  also  —  Paul,  the  great 
preacher  to  the  uncircumcision  —  should  all  be  at 
special  pains  to  show  that  all  charges  to  the  contrary 
were  false.  We  saw  that  when  Paul  stood  before 
Festus,  charged  by  his  countrymen  with  (t  many  and 
grievous  charges,"  he  quietly  said  in  his  own  defense, 
"  Neither  against  the  law  of  the  Jews,  nor  against  the 
temple,  nor  against  Caesar,  have  I  sinned  at  all."  We 
observed  these  and  very  many  other  facts  and  inci- 
dental statements,  all  showing  such  a  toleration,  gen- 
tleness and  large-hearted  charity  as  stand  at  an 
almost  immeasurable  distance  from  that  zeal  for  the 
Lord's  house  which,  with  uncoverable  bitterness,  can 
ostracise  and  disfellowship  all  who  do  not  conform, 
not  to  the  gospel  of  Jesus,  but  to  their  dogmas  con- 
cerning it.  We  saw  that  Paul  never  forsook  the  re- 
ligion of  his  fathers,  and  that  this  was  no  bar  to  his 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  219 

fullest  communion  with  all  who,  in  every  place,  called 
upon  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus;  and  that  his  last 
utterance  on  this  matter,  as  given  in  the  last  chapter 
of  Acts,  was,  "  I  have  done  nothing  against  the  peo- 
ple, or  the  customs  of  the  fathers."  From  all  this,  we 
concluded  that  the  mission  of  the  believer  in  Jesus 
does  not  allow  him,  where  unfortunately  any  breach 
does  exist  amongst  the  brethren,  to  widen  the  breach 
—  to  magnify  any  difference  —  to  increase  any  bitter- 
ness, or  misrepresent  in  any  measure  those  from 
whom  he  may  differ.  We  gathered  that,  whilst  the 
believer  must  strive  with  all  his  heart  to  be  loyal  to 
the  Lord  Jesus  and  his  gospel,  he  must  not,  under 
plea  of  faithfulness  to  the  requirements  of  the  gospel, 
treat  with  unkindness,  and  place  under  ban  any  who 
love  the  Master,  but  who  have  failed  to  gather  up  the 
same  measure  of  truth  with  himself.  We  thought  we 
saw  a  catholicity  of  spirit  attending  the  proclamation 
of  the  gospel,  and  filling  its  proclaimers,  which  al- 
ways won  the  truth-loving,  and  never  yielded  or 
compromised  the  gospel,  even  when  with  "  all  good 
conscience "  as  Jews  they  forsook  not  the  "  law  of 
their  fathers,"  and  mingled  in  both  the  temple  wor- 
ship and  synagogue  service. 

Occupied  thus,  day  after  day,  our  voyage  was  filled 
from  first  to  last  with  the  realest  interest,  and  we 
think  helped  us  to  see  men  and  things  more  nearly  as 
they  really  are,  than  we  otherwise  could  have  done. 
Looking  over  the  various  fields  of  labor  we  visited,  it 
is  but  bare  justice  to  say  that  the  cause  of  a  pure  gos- 


220  A  TRIP  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

pel  has  taken  deep  root  in  all  these  far-off  lands,  and 
that  Brethren  Earl,  M.  B.  Green,  of  Dunedin;  Gore, 
Surber,  Carr,  Haley,  Bates,  Strang,  Marston,  with  the 
Australian  preachers,  have  done  no  small  share  to- 
ward the  present  result.  It  may  be  also  said  that  but 
few  preachers  have  ever  had  such  faithful  co-helpers 
as  they  have  found  in  the  brethren  themselves,  with- 
out whose  self-sacrificing  hard  work  the  labors  of  the 
preachers  would  have  counted  for  little.  The  British 
Millennial  Harbinger,  published  by  the  late  Bro. 
J.  Wallis,  of  England,  has  had  very  large  influence  in 
molding  the  character  of  the  colonial  churches,  and 
the  Ecclesiastical  Observer,  Bro.  I).  King's  paper,  has 
contributed  in  past  years  in  the  same  direction.  The 
brethren  in  Australia  have  now,  however,  their  own 
papers,  and  conducted  with  real  ability.  Bro.  Haley, 
of  Melbourne,  is  making  the  Watchman  a  power  that 
is  felt. 

Scattered  over  these  vast  Southern  seas  there  are 
still  untamed  lands  and  unredeemed  peoples,  and  at 
no  great  distance,  India,  China  and  Japan.  Is  it  not 
time  that  a  common,  loving  effort  be  made  by  the 
combined  churches  of  America,  England,  and  of  these 
Colonies,  to  carry  the  gospel  to  lands  still  benighted, 
and  "  sitting  in  the  darkness  and  in  the  valley  of  the 
shadow  of  death"?  Would  it  not  be  well  for  at  least 
one  representative  from  the  churches  of  Australia, 
and  one  or  two  from  Great  Britain,  to  meet  with  the 
brethren  assembled  at  the  next  great  annual  gather- 
ing in  America,  so  that  some  such  work  will  be  in- 


BOUND  FOR  HOME.  221 

augurated  as  will  call  out  all  our  benevolence,  absorb 
all  our  energies,  and  swallow  up  all  complaints,  and 
prove  a  starting-point  from  which  shall  be  dated 
the  salvation  of  multitudes?  The  heart  of  the  Aus- 
tralian brotherhood  is  large,  and  devises  liberal 
things.  Their  unstinted  kindness  to  us,  wherever  we 
went,  will  be  sweet  memories  forever.  Is  it  not  the 
duty  of  the  present  hour,  that  for  united  work  for  the 
honor  of  Christ  and  the  salvation  of  men,  some  effort 
be  made  to  gather  together  in  one  grand  family  feder- 
ation and  conipact,  all  the  children  of  God  who  are 
scattered  abroad? 

On  board  the  John  Elder  I  preached  three  times ; 
on  the  voyage  to  New  York  it  was  too  stormy  the 
only  Lord's  day  it  might  have  been  possible. 

The  pen  must  now  be  laid  aside ;  our  long  journey, 
embracing  the  round  world,  with  all  its  perils,  has 
come  to  an  end;  but  its  joys  and  pleasures  belong 
to  the  imperishable. 

Wonderful  indeed  are  the  Colonies  in  these  far-off 
lands ;  wonderful  is  the  work,  it  seemed  to  us,  the 
churches  have  there  done;  and  wonderful  the  grand 
possibilities  and  solemn  responsibilities  placed  upon 
us  and  before  us  a  people.  May  we  be  found  ready 
for  the  work. 

As  Bro.  Coop  has  really  participated  in  all  these 
matters  so  much,  it  is  only  fitting  that  this  letter 
be  signed  in  harmony  with  the  first. 

T.  COOP,  H.  EXLEY. 

October  27, 1881. 


